. 

. 
• 


- 


WF 


LIBRARY 

OF  THE 

UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA. 


GIFT  OF" 


X7 


Received 
Accession  No. 


Class 


3.  P.  AVERY, 
4  EAST  38TH   STREET. 


CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 


fed 


•sg 


CENTJRAL    ROUTE 


TO  THK 


PACIFIC, 


VALLEY  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI  TO  CALIFORNIA; 


JOURNAL  OF  THE  EXPEDITION 


E.  F.  BEALE,  SUPERINTENDENT  OF  INDIAN  AFFAIRS  IN 
CALIFORNIA,  AND  GWINN  HARRIS  HEAP, 


MISSOURI    TO    CALIFORNIA,    IN   1853. 

BY 

GWINN   HARRIS   HEAP. 


UFI7BRSII7 


PHILADELPHIA: 
LIPPINCOTT,    GRAMBO,    AND    CO. 

1854. 


Entered  according  to  the  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1853,  by 
LIPPINCOTT,  GRAMBO,  AND  CO., 

in  the  Office  of  the  Clerk  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States  in  and 
for  the  Eastern  District  of  Pennsylvania. 


PHILADELPHIA: 
T.  K.  AND  P.  G.  COLLINS,  PRINTEKS. 


Bancroft  Library 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER    I. 

PA68 

JOURNEY  FROM  WESTPORT  TO  THE  MOUTH  OF  HUERFAKO  RIVER  ...       13 

CHAPTER    II. 
ROUTE  FROM  HUERFANO  RIVER  TO  THE  COOCHATOPE  PASS  .    _    .        .        .      28 

CHAPTER   III. 
FROM  COOCHATOPE  PASS  TO  GRAKD  RIVER.     LOSSES  ox  GRAND  RIVER        .      38 

CHAPTER   IV. 

JOURNEY  OF  MR.  HEAP  TO  NEW  MEXICO,  AND  BACK.     MR.  BEALE'S  SEPA 
RATE  JOURNAL 52 

CHAPTER   V. 
JOURNEY  TO  THE  MORMON  SETTLEMENTS  NEAR  LAS  VEGAS  DK  SANTA  CLARA      71 

CHAPTER   VI. 

'    DEPARTURE  FROM  LAS  VEGAS  DE  SANTA  CLARA.     PASSAGE  OF  THE  DESERT. 

ARRIVAL  AT  Los  ANGELES,  CAL.     .        .  .        -         .        .        .98 


R£SUM£  OF  THE  CENTRAL  ROUTE  FROM  WESTPORT,  Mo.,  TO  Los  ANGELES, 
CAL.  .......     113 


ITINERARY  OF  THE  CENTRAL  ROUTE 119 


APPENDIX. 

LETTERS  FROM  MR.  CHAS.  W.  MCCLANAHAN,  AND  MR.  R.  S.  WOOTTON     123,  125 
CAMELS,  AS  A  SUBSTITUTE  FOR  HORSES,  MULES,  ETC.          ....     128 


LIST   OF  PLATES. 


PACE 

PLATE  I.  RAFTING  ACROSS  GRAND  RIVER.     Opposite  title-page. 

PLATK  II.  SPANISH  PEAKS      .        ..        .;.,.•..         .         .       27 

PLATE  III.  HUERFANO  CANON          .        .        .        .'        .        .        .        .      28 

PLATE  IV.  HUERFANO  BUTTB         '.        .        .       .»'       .        .        .        .       29 

PLATE  V.  FIRST  CAMP  IN  THE  MOUNTAINS      .        .        .        .        .        .30 

PLATE  VI.      ENTRANCE  OF  SAHWATCH  VALLEY 37 

PLATE  VII.    SCENERY  IN  SAHWATCH  VALLEY 87 

PLATE  VIII.  COOCHATOPE  GATE 37 

PLATE  IX.      COOCHATOPE  PASS         .        » 39 

PLATE  X.       Rio  DB  LA  LAGUNA .        .41 

PLATE  XI.      CROSSING  LAGUNA  CREEK .      42 

PLATE  XII.  GRAND  RIVER        ...        .                 .        .        .^                .46 

PLATE  XIII.  GREEN  RIVEB                                                                                  83 


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CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 


INTKODUCTOKY. 

Ox  the  third  day  of  March,  1853,  Congress  passed  a  law  ap 
propriating  $250,000  for  the  purpose  of  carrying  into  effect  a 
plan  which  E.  F.  Beale,  Superintendent  of  Indian  Affairs  for 
the  State  of  California,  had  proposed  for  the  better  protection, 
subsistence,  and  colonization  of  the  Indian  tribes  within  his 
superintendency.  \ 

The  President  having  given  his  approval  to  this  plan,  Mr. 
Beale  was  instructed  to  proceed  forthwith,  by  the  shortest  route, 
to  his  superintendency,  and  to  select  lands  most  suitable  for 
Indian  reservations.  He  was  also  directed,  in  connection  with 
this  plan,  to  examine  the  Territories  of  New  Mexico  and  Utah, 
where  their  frontiers  and  those  of  California  lie  contiguous,  and 
to  ascertain  whether  lands  existed  there  to  which  the  California 
Indians  might,  with  advantage,  be  removed. 

Mr.  Bcale  having,  in  a  few  days,  collected  a  small  party,  and 
my  duties  calling  me  at  this  time  to  California,  I  gladly  availed 
myself  of  his  invitation  to  join  the  expedition,  which  promised 
to  be  replete  with  interest,  not  only  because  he  proposed  tra 
versing  a  large  tract  of  unexplored  country,  but  also  from  its  < 
being  one  of  the  routes  in  contemplation  for  a  railway  from  the 
Valley  of  the  Mississippi  to  our  Pacific  possessions. 

In  the  journal  now  offered  to  the  public,  I  have  endeavored  to 
give  a  correct  representation  of  the  country  which  we  traversed ; 
and,  although  I  do  not  pretend  to  do  justice  to  the  subject,  I 
trust  that  these  notes  will  not  be  altogether  without  value,  par 
ticularly  it  a  time  when  the  public  mind  is  engrossed  with  a 
2 


10  CENTEAL  KOTJTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

subject  of  such  stupendous  magnitude  as  the  establishment  of 
a  trans-continental  railway.  It  was  a  source  of  frequent  regret 
to  us,  that  circumstances  which  it  is  not  necessary  to  explain 
here,  had  put  it  out  of  our  power  to  provide  instruments  for 
a  more  scientific  survey  of  this  route ;  and  I  have,  therefore, 
avoided  to  state  anything,  even  in  the  form  of  a  surmise,  the 
correctness  of  which  could  only  be  ascertained  by  instrumental 
survey.  It  is  often  difficult  to  determine  heights  and  grades 
with  perfect  accuracy,  even  with  the  assistance  of  instruments ; 
random  assertions,  made  upon  mere  supposition,  would,  there 
fore,  be  entirely  without  value.  The  information  I  claim  to 
give  is  such  only  as  I  believe  will  be  found  reliable  and  useful, 
particularly  to  emigrants ;  to  them,  any  new  light  thrown  upon 
the  geography  of  the  interior  of  our  continent,  cannot  fail  to  be 
interesting,  and  they  will  find  this  journal  a  faithful  delineation 
of  the  country  through  which  our  route  led  us. 

In  regard  to'  the  map  accompanying  this  book,  I  wish  to 
state  that  the  portion  which  differs  from  any  hitherto  published, 
is  the  section  embraced  between  the  mouth  of  Huerfano  Eiver, 
in  west  long.  103°  20',  and  Little  Salt  Lake,  in  west  long.  113°. 
No  survey  has  been  published  of  this  region,  and  all  informa 
tion  regarding  it  has  heretofore  been  derived  exclusively  from 
the  reports  of  trappers  and  Indian  traders.  Without  claiming 
for  it  any  extraordinary  degree  of  accuracy,  it  will  be  found,  I 
hope,  much  more  correct  and  reliable  than  any  map  hitherto 
published.  Almost  hourly  notes,  with  the  constant  use  of  the 
•compass,  and  a  correct  estimate  of  distances,  were,  in  the  ab 
sence  of  instruments,  my  means  of  delineating  the  topography 
of  the  country  which  we  traversed.  The  other  portions  of  the 
map  are  copied  from  the  best  and  latest  surveys. 

The  route  selected  by  Mr.  Beale  was,  in  conformity  with  his 
instructions,  the  shortest  and  most  direct  to  California ;  and  it 
also  enabled  him  to  examine,  with  the  least  delay,  the  localities 
to  which  it  was  believed  that  the  Indians  of  California  might 
be  removed  with  advantage  to  themselves,  should  suitable 
lands  for  the  purpose  be  found. 

The  following  is  a  synopsis  of  the  route  he  designed  taking : 

The  starting-point  was  Westport,  in  Missouri ;  from  thence, 
leaving  the  Eiver  Kanzas  on  our  right,  we  were  to  proceed  to 
Fort  Atkinson  on  the  Arkansas,  crossing  the  head- waters  of 


INTRODUCTORY.  11 

the  Osage  and  Neosho.  From  Fort  Atkinson,  our  course 
was  up  the  left  bank  of  the  Arkansas,  as  far  as  the  Eiver 
Huerfano,  which  joins  the  Arkansas  about  forty-five  miles 
above  Bent's  Fort;  thence  up  the  Huerfano  to  the  Sangre 
de  Cristo  Mountains,  and  through  them  to  Fort  Massachusetts 
on  Utah  Creek,  in  the  north  of  New  Mexico.  After  leaving 
Fort  Massachusetts,  we  were  to  proceed  up  the  valley  of  San 
Luis,  lying  between  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  Mountains  and  the 
Sierra  Mojada  on  the  east,  the  Sierras  Blanca  and  Sah watch 
on  the  north,  and  the  Sierra  de  San  Juan  on  the  west.  Up 
this  valley  to  the  Sahwatch  Valley,  through  the  Coochatope 
Pass  in  the  Sahwatch  Mountains,  and  down  the  Eiver  Uncom- 
pagre  to  the  Grand  Eiver  Fork  of  the  Great  Colorado,  in  Utah 
Territory.  Thence  across  the  Eiver  Avonkaria  and  the  Green 
Eiver  Fork  of  the  Colorado,  through  the  Wahsatch  Mountains 
to  the  Mormon  settlements  near  Little  Salt  Lake  and  the  Ve- 
gas  de  Santa  Clara.  From  this  point  we  would  travel  on  the 
old  Spanish  trail  leading  from  Abiquiu,  across  the  desert,  to 
the  Eiver  Mohaveh,  where  we  intended  to  leave  it,  and  enter 
into  the  Tulare  Valley  in  California,  through  Walker's  Pass, 
in  the  Sierra  Nevada. 

We  left  Washington  on  the  20th  of  April,  and  arrived  at 
St.  Louis  the  2d,  Kanzas  the  5th,  and  Westport  the  6th  of  May. 

Westport  is  a  thriving  place,  situated  four  miles  from  Kan 
zas;  and  emigrants  from  Missouri  to  California  and  Oregon 
make  either  this  place  or  Independence  their  starting-point. 
At  both  towns  all  necessary  supplies  can  be  obtained  at  reason 
able  rates,  and  their  merchants  and  mechanics  being  constantly 
required  to  supply  the  wants  of  travellers  on  the  plains,  keep 
on  hand  such  articles  as  are  best  adapted  for  an  overland  jour 
ney.  Kanzas,  a  newer  place,  is  also  thriving,  and  a  fine  river- 
landing.  At  Westport,  I  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  with  a 
very  courteous  gentleman,  Count  Cypriani,  ex-governor  of 
Leghorn.  He  was  preparing  for  an  expedition  to  California, 
via  Fort  Laramie,  the  South  Pass,  Great  Salt  Lake,  and  Car 
son's  Valley.  His  party  consisted  of  eleven  persons  of  educa 
tion  and  science,  and  an  escort  of  mountain  men ;  and  his  outfit 
was  in  every  respect  well  appointed  and  complete.  If  the  ob 
servations  of  this  accomplished  gentleman  should  be  given  to 


12  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

the  public,  they  will  be  a  valuable  addition  to  the  scanty  know 
ledge  we  possess  of  the  interior  of  our  country.  He  has  had 
much  experience  as  a  traveller,  having  already  visited  the 
greater  portion  of  both  the  continents  of  the  western  hemi 
sphere,  as  well  as  those  of  Europe,  Asia,  and  Africa. 


CHAPTER    I. 

JOURNEY  FROM  WESTPORT  TO  THE  RIVER  HUERFANO. 

OUR  party  was  composed  of  twelve  persons,  viz : — 

E.  F.  BEALE,  Superintendent  of  Indian  Affairs  in  California. 

G.  HARRIS  HEAP. 

ELISHA  EIGGS,  of  Washington. 

WILLIAM  RIGGS,  " 

WILLIAM  ROGERS, 

HENRY  YOUNG. 

J.  WAGNER. 

J.  COSGROVE. 

RICHARD  BROWN  (a  Delaware  Indian). 

GREGORIO  MADRID  (a  Mexican). 

JESUS  GARCIA,  " 

GEORGE  SIMMS  (colored  man). 

May  10,  1853.  The  train  started  from  Westport  in  the 
afternoon,  with  directions  to  proceed  to  Council  Grove,  and 
await  our  arrival  there.  Mr.  Beale  accompanied  it  a  few  miles 
into  the  prairie,  and  returned  after  dark. 

With  a  view  to  making  a  rapid  trip,  we  had  dispensed  with 
everything  that  was  not  absolutely  necessary  for  our  wants; 
and  our  outfit,  therefore,  was  of  the  simplest  description. 

May  15.  All  our  arrangements  being  completed,  we  started 
from  Westport  at  3  P.  M.  A  party  of  ladies  and  gentlemen 
accompanied  us  a  few  miles  into  the  prairie,  and  drank  a 
"  stirrup  cup"  of  champagne  to  the  success  of  our  journey.  The 
weather  was  bright  and  clear,  and,  after  a  pleasant  ride  of 
twelve  miles  over  prairies  enamelled  with  flowers,  we  encamped 
at  thirty  minutes  after  six  P.  M.  on  Indian  Creek,  a  tributary 
of  the  Kanzas,  fringed  with  a  thick  growth  of  cottonwoods 
and  willows.  Day's  march,  12  miles. 


14  CENTKAL  EOUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

-  May  16.  Moved  camp  at  5  A.  M.  The  morning  was  cloudy. 
George  Simms,  who  superintended  the  culinary  department, 
procured  milk  from  a  neighboring  Caw  Indian's  hut,  which, 
with  dried  buffalo  tongue,  enabled  us  to  make  a  hearty  break 
fast.  An  excellent  and  well-beaten  road,  as  broad  and  smooth 
as  a  turnpike,  led  us  through  a  green  rolling  prairie.  Although 
we  saw  many  prairie  hens  and  plovers,  we  were  too  impatient 
to  overtake  our  train  to  waste  time  in  shooting  them.  Arrived 
at  9  hours  30  min.  A.  M.  at  Bull  Creek,  twenty-three  miles, 
where  we  found  two  log-huts,  good  water  and  grass,  and  some 
cottonwood  and  willow  trees. 

After  a  short  rest,  we  continued  on  to  Garfish  Camp,  twenty- 
two  miles,  over  a  rolling  prairie,  covered  with  rich  herbage — 
but  noticed  little  timber.  Passed  many  water-holes.  The 
weather  was  cool,  with  a  pleasant  southerly  wind.  Around 
our  encampment  the  grass  was  knee-high,  but  no  wood  was 
found  nearer  than  half  a  mile;  a  few  dry  bushes,  eked  out  with 
"  buffalo  chips,"  sufficed  to  prepare  our  supper.  The  Santa  Fe 
mail  stage  was  stopping  here  when  we  arrived,  and  proceeded 
on  its  way  to  Independence  shortly  after.  Day's  march,  45 
miles  ;  total  distance  from  "Westport,  57  miles. 

May  17.  The  morning  was  ushered  in  with  the  wind  from 
the  southward,  ladened  with  heavy  clouds,  and  accompanied  by 
occasional  showers  of  rain.  Mr.  Beale  went  in  search  of  a  mule, 
which  had  drawn  her  picket-pins  in  the  night,  and  taken  the 
"back  track"  towards  Westport;  but,  after  a  ride  of  seven 
miles  he  was  compelled  to  relinquish  the  pursuit.  Numerous 
prairie  wolves  surrounded  the  camp  all  night.  Arrived  at 
"  One  Hundred  and  Ten"  at  45  minutes  after  10  A.  M.  The 
wind  veered  to  southeast,  still  accompanied  by  rain,  and  the 
weather  was  cold  and  unpleasant.  "  One  Hundred  and  Ten"  is 
so  named  from  its  being  at  that  distance  from  Fort  Leaven- 
worth.  This  hamlet  is  composed  of  a  few  log-houses  situated 
in  a  hollow,  near  a  small  stream  shaded  by  cottonwoods.  The 
inhabitants  are  Shawnees,  but  at  this  time  nearly  all  the  men 
were  absent;  the  women  appeared  neat  and  respectable.  Prairie 
hens  and  plovers  were  numerous ;  but  we  were  still  too  near 
the  settlements  for  nobler  game.  Continued  our  route  at 
1  P.  M.;  the  road  still  led  over  a  beautiful  rolling  country,  the 
grass  good,  and  occasional  pools  of  water.  At  4  P.  M.  encamped 


FROM  WESTPORT  TO  THE  HUERFANO.  15 

at  Dragoon  Creek,  after  a  ride  of  twelve  miles.  It  is  a  small 
brook,  well  shaded  by  cottonwoods  and  oaks,  and  grass  grows 
luxuriantly  on  its  banks.  A  few  Caw  Indians  at  this  place 
came  into  our  camp  hoping  to  exchange  horses  with  us,  and 
were  quite  disappointed  at  our  refusal  to  trade.  They  were 
fine-looking  men,  well  proportioned,  and  athletic.  The  chief, 
whose  portrait  I  offered  to  sketch,  seemed  delighted  with  the 
idea,  and  hastened  to  his  camp  for  his  rifle,  which  he  was  more 
anxious  to  have  correctly  represented  than  himself.  He  pre 
sented  us  a  paper  with  a  very  complacent  air,  evidently  think 
ing  that  it  contained  strong  recommendations  of  his  tribe,  and 
himself  in  particular.  It  was  written  by  some  mischievous 
emigrant,  who  advised  all  travellers  to  beware  of  this  great 
chief,  who  was  none  other  than  a  great  rascal,  and  great  beggar. 
We  did  not  undeceive  him  as  to  its  contents,  and  he  left  us, 
seeming  perfectly  satisfied  with  the  impression  he  had  created. 
Day's  travel,  35  miles;  distance  from  Westport,  92  miles. 

May  18.  We  had  a  severe  thunder  and  rain  storm,  which 
lasted  all  night ;  the  wind  blew  strong  from  the  southward,  and 
the  lightning  was  incessant  and  vivid.  One  of  those  balls  of 
fire  which  sometimes  descend  to  the  earth  during  violent  thun 
derstorms,  fell  and  exploded  in  our  midst.  The  mules,  already 
terrified  by  the  constant  peals  of  thunder,  became  frantic  with 
fear ;  and  when  this  vivid  light  was  seen,  accompanied  with  a 
report  like  the  crack  of  a  rifle,  neither  picket-pins  nor  hobbles 
could  hold  them ;  they  rushed  through  the  camp  overturning 
everything  in  their  course — their  ropes  and  halters  lashing  right 
and  left,  and  increasing  their  panic.  They  were  stopped  by  an 
elbow  of  the  creek,  where  they  were  found  a  few  minutes  after, 
huddled  together,  and  quivering  with  fear.  It  was  fortunate 
for  us  that  they  did  not  take  to  the  open  prairie,  as  we  would 
have  had  much  difficulty  in  recovering  them.  This  was  our 
first  experience  in  a  stampede,  and  to  prevent  a  recurrence  of 
such  accidents  we  after  this  placed  the  animals  in  the  centre, 
and,  dividing  our  party  into  twos  and  threes,  slept  in  a  circle 
around  them.  By  using  such  precautions  we  were  never  sub 
jected  to  this  annoyance  again,  except  once,  after  entering  the 
country  of  the  Utahs.  « At  dawn,  the  wind  veered  to  the  west 
ward,  and  blew  very  cold.  Before  sunrise,  we  resumed  our 
journey,  and  in  twelve  miles  crossed  a  fine  clear  stream,  and  in 


16  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

fourteen  miles  reached  another.  A  ride  of  twenty -five  miles 
brought  us  to  a  hollow,  where,  finding  good  water,  we  encamped. 
Eesting  but  a  short  time  we  continued  our  journey,  and  in  ten 
miles,  over  a  rich  rolling  country,  arrived  at  Council  Grove, 
where  our  train  was  waiting  for  us. 

Council  Grove  is  situated  in  a  rich  grassy  bottom,  well  water 
ed,  and  heavily  timbered.  It  is  a  settlement  of  about  twenty 
frame  and  log  houses,  and  scattered  up  and  down  the  stream 
are  several  Indian  villages.  At  a  short  distance  from  the  road 
is.  a  large  and  substantially  built  Methodist  mission-house, 
constructed  of  limestone,  which  is  found  here  in  inexhaustible 
quantities.  This  stone  is  excellent  as  a  building  material,  and 
lies  in  strata  of  from  six  inches  to  three  feet  in  thickness : 
lintels  and  arches  are  made  of  it  as  it  is  extracted  from  the 
quarries,  which  extend  for  fifteen  miles  up  the  stream.  Day's 
march,  32  miles ;  total  distance,  122  miles. 

May  19.  "We  now  considered  ourselves  fairly  embarked  on 
our  journey,  for  until  leaving  Council  Grove  we  felt  as  if  we 
were  still  within  the  boundaries  of  civilization.  Even  the  huts 
which  we  passed  occasionally  on  the  road,  though  inhabited 
only  by  Indians,  removed  that  sense  of  utter  loneliness  which 
impresses  the  traveller  upon  the  boundless  prairie.  Mr.  Beale 
had  selected  only  such  men  as  were  inured  by  long  habit  to 
the  privations  and  hardships  which  we  expected  to  encounter. 
One,  the  Delaware,  was  an  experienced  hunter,  and  to  his  un 
erring  rifle  we  owed,  during  the  journey,  many  abundant  re 
pasts,  when  otherwise  we  would  have  been  upon  short  allowance. 

While  at  Council  Grove,  we  had  some  mules  shod,  and  the 
provisions  that  had  been  consumed  on  the  journey  from  West- 
port,  were  replaced.  The  animals  having  been  -well  packed, 
and  our  arms  and  ammunition  inspected,  we  bid  adieu  to  Coun 
cil  Grove  in  the  morning,  and  after  a  pleasant  ride  of  seventeen 
miles  encamped  near  water  in  a  hollow  on  the  roadside.  The 
weather  was  fine,  a  cool  breeze  refreshing  the  air.  Some  prairie 
hens,  ducks,  and  plovers  were  shot.  In  the '  afternoon,  after 
travelling  fifteen  miles,  we  encamped  near  the  "  Lost  Spring." 
The  grass  along  the  road,  was  good,  and  we  passed  several 
pools  which  probably  dry  up  in  midsummer. 

Since  our  departure  from  Westport  we  had  seen  many  graves 
on  each  side  of  the  road,  and  some  of  the  camping-places  had 


FROM  WESTPORT  TO  THE  HUERFAXO.  17 

the  appearance  of  village  graveyards.  The  cholera  raged  on 
the  plains  a  few  years  ago,  occasioning  a  fearful  mortality, 
and  these  mounds  remain  to  attest  its  ravages.  Through  care 
lessness  or  haste,  they  were  often  too  shallow  to  protect  their 
contents  from  the  wolves,  and  it  frequently  happened  that  he 
who  in  the  morning  was  hastening  forward  in  health  and  spirits 
towards  the  golden  bourn,  was  ere  night  a  mangled  corpse,  his 
bones  scattered,  by  the  savage  hunger  of  the  wolf,  over  the  plain. 

It  was  now  deemed  prudent  to  keep  guard,  as  we  were 
approaching  Indian  hunting-grounds,  and  were  liable  at  any 
moment  to  meet  a  predatory  band.  Eight  of  the  party  kept 
watch,  each  man  being  relieved  every  hour.  Day's  march,  32 
miles ;  distance  from  Westport,  154  miles. 

May  20.  The  night  was  cold  and  frosty.  Started  soon  after 
sunrise,  and,  after  travelling  sixteen  miles,  encamped  on  Cotton- 
wood  Creek ;  a  pretty  brook,  lined  with  cottonwood  and  oak 
trees,  and  alive  with  small  fish,  some  of  which  were  caught  with 
a  hook  and  line. 

Eesumed  our  march  at  noon,  and  travelled  over  a  fMt  unin 
teresting  country  with  little  water.  This  day  saw  antelope  for 
the  first  time.  Met  Major  Eucker,  and  Lieutenants  Heath  and 
Robinson  on  their  way  from  New  Mexico  to  Fort  Leavenworth. 
They  informed  us  that  at  a  short  distance  in  advance  of  us  were 
large  bands  of  buffalo.  Encamped,  as  the  sun  was  setting,  on  a 
brook  called  Turkey  Creek,  where  we  found  an  abundant  sup 
ply  of  water,  but  no  wood.  We  here  overtook  Mr.  Antoine 
Leroux,  on  his  way  to  Taos,  and  considered  ourselves  fortunate 
in  securing  the  services  of  so  experienced  a  guide.  He  did  not 
join  us  at  once,  as  he  was  desirous  of  seeing  his  train  safely  over 
one  or  two  bad  places  in  advance  of  us,  but  promised  to  over 
take  us  in  a  day  or  two.  Day's  march,  35  miles ;  distance  from 
Westport,  189  miles. 

May  21.  Raised  camp  at  sunrise,  and  after  a  ride  of  thirty 
miles  stopped  to  noon  on  the  Little  Arkansas.  This  stream  is 
difficult  to  cross  during  a  continuance  of  heavy  rains,  but  has 
little  water  in  it  at  this  season.  Passed  good  water  and  grass  in 
twelve  miles  from  last  camp. 

We  were  all  on  the  lookout  for  buffaloes.  It  was  five  days 
since  we  had  left  Westport,  and  as  yet  our  eyes  had  not  been 
gladdened  by  the  sight  of  even  one.  Hoping  to  fall  in  with 


18  CENTRAL  EOUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

/ 

them  more  readily  by  diverging  from  the  beaten  track,  I  left 
the  party  soon  after  sunrise,  and  turning  to  the  left,  went  a  few 
miles  in  the  direction  of  the  Arkansas.  After  a  ride  of  two 
hours,  I  observed  afar  off  many  dark  objects  which  resembled 
trees  skirting  the  horizon,  but,  after  a  closer  scrutiny,  their  change 
of  position  convinced  me  that  they  were  buffaloes.  I  slowly 
approached  them,  and,'  in  order  to  obtain  a  nearer  view  with 
out  giving  them  the  alarm,  dismounted,  and,  urging  my  horse 
forwards,  concealed  myself  behind  him.  I  thus  got  within  a 
hundred  yards  of  the  herd.  Bands  of  antelope  and  prairie 
wolves  were  intermingled  with  the  buffaloes,  who  had  come 
down  to  a  rivulet  to  drink.  Of  the  latter  some  were  fighting, 
others  wallowing,  drinking,  or  browsing.  I  was  just  congratu 
lating  myself  upon  my  ruse  in  getting  so  near  to  them,  this  being 
my  first  sight  of  these  noble  animals,  when  my  horse,  suddenly 
raising  his  head,  uttered  such  a  sonorous  neigh  as  put  the  whole 
troop  to  flight.  Away  they  galloped,  one  band  after  another 
taking  the  alarm,  until  the  whole  herd,  numbering  several 
thousand,  was  in  motion,  and  finally  disappeared  in  clouds  of 
dust.  Despairing  of  getting  such  another  opportunity  for  a 
shot,  I  reluctantly  turned  ny  horse's  head  in  the  direction  where 
I  supposed  the  rest  of  the  party  to  be.  A  few  hours'  ride 
brought  me  back  to  them.  They  too  had  fallen  in  with  buffaloes, 
and,  in  their  eagerness  to  secure  the  first  prize,  each  man  had 
taken  two  or  three  shots  at  a  straggling  old  bull,  an  exile  from 
the  herd;  he  fell,  pierced  with  twenty-three  balls.  He  was, 
however,  too  old  and  tough  to  be  eaten,  and  was  left  for  his 
friends  the  cayotes. 

Buffaloes  now  became  such  an  ordinary  occurrence  that  the 
novelty  soon  wore  off,  and  we  had  more  humps,  tongues,  and 
marrow-bones  than  the  greatest  gourmand  could  have  desired. 

In  the  afternoon  travelled  ten  miles  to  Owl  Creek,  one  of  the 
head-waters  of  the  Neosho,  where  we  found  good  grass  and 
timber,  but  no  water.  Passed  many  pools,  much  muddied  by 
buffaloes.  Mr.  Leroux  joined  us  here,  but  remained  behind 
again  to  see  his  train  across  this  creek. 

Early  in  the  evening,  another  rain  and  thunderstorm  broke 
over  us,  and  lasted  all  night;  the  grass,  and  everything  metallic, 
threw  off  sparks  of  electricity ;  the  rain  descended  in  torrents, 
and  it  was  with  difficulty  that  a  fire  could  be  kindled.  A  more 


FKOM  WESTPOKT  TO  THE  HUERFANO.  19 

unpromising  prospect  could  scarcely  be  imagined.  Some  en 
deavored  to  secure  the  packs  and  provisions,  whilst  others, 
stoically  resigning  themselves  to  their  fate,  wrapped  their  drip 
ping  blankets  around  them,  and  slept  in  spite  of  the  storm. 
Day's  march,  40  miles';  distance  from  Westport,  229  miles. 

May  22.  Moved  camp  without  breakfast,  for,  notwithstand 
ing  the  rain,  no  water  for  making  coffee  had  been  caught.  The 
day  broke  clear  and  bright,  and  large  bands  of  buffaloes  being 
in  our  vicinity,  Mr.  Beale  and  myself  went  out  for  a  hunt.  On 
ascending  the  ridge  which  inclosed  the  bottom  in  which  we 
were  encamped,  long  lines  of  these  animals' could  be  seen  quite 
near,  walking  with  solemn  tread,  and  occasionally  stopping  to 
browse  or  to  roll;  but,  as  we  approached  them  to  windward, 
they  soon  took  the  alarm,  and,  wheeling  round,  galloped  off  to 
rejoin  the  scattered  herds  in  the  plain.  We  rode  some  distance 
down  the  deep  bed  of  Owl  Creek,  and  having  got  to  leeward  of 
a  large  herd,  endeavored  to  approach  them  in  the  Indian  man 
ner,  by  creeping  on  our  hands  and  knees.  By  approaching 
them  to  leeward,  and  remaining  perfectly  motionless  whenever 
they  raise  their  heads  to  sniff  the  air,  or  evince  any  alarm, 
hunters  have  succeeded  in  getting  sufficiently  near  to  strike 
them  with  their  ramrods.  We,  however,  could  only  get  within 
rifle-shot,  and  Mr.  Beale  wounding  one,  though  not  mortally, 
he  made  his  escape  with  the  rest  of  the  band.  Indians,  in 
chasing  the  buffalo,  use  only  the  most  practised  horses ;  guiding 
them  with  their  knees,  their  long  lances  ready  for  use,  they 
rush  at  full  speed  in  the  midst  of  a  herd,  and  piercing  the  ani 
mal  under  the  shoulder,  so  as  to  penetrate  the  heart,  they  leave 
him  to  fall,  and  continue  the  chase,  often  killing  ten  or  twelve 
in  the  course  of  a  single  run. 

We  had  already  overtaken  and  passed  several  large  wagon 
and  cattle  trains  from  Texas  and  Arkansas,  mostly  bound  to 
California.  With  them  were  many  women  and  children ;  and 
it  was  pleasant  to  stroll  into  their  camps  in  the  evening  and 
witness  the  perfect  air  of  comfort  and  being-at-home  that  they 
presented.  Their  wagons  drawn  up  in  a  circle,  gave  them  at 
least  an  appearance  of  security ;  and  within  the  inclosure  the 
men  either  reclined  around  the  camp-fires,  or  were  busy  in  re 
pairing  their  harness  or  cleaning  their  arms.  The  females 
milked  the  cows  and  prepared  the  supper;  and  we  often  en- 


20  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

joyed  the  hot  cakes  and  fresh  milk  which  they  invited  us  to 
partake  of.  Tender  infants  in  their  cradles  were  seen  under 
the  shelter  of  the  wagons,  thus  early  inured  to  hard  travel. 
Carpets  and  rocking-chairs  were  drawn  out,  and,  what  would 
perhaps  shock  some  of  our  fine  ladies,  fresh-looking  girls, 
whose  rosy  lips  were  certainly  never  intended  to  be  defiled  by 
the  vile  weed,  sat  around  the  fire,  smoking  the  old-fashioned 
corn-cob  pipe. 

Although  Mr.  Beale  and  myself  overtook  camp  at  a  late 
hour,  we  travelled  a  few  miles  farther,  and  encamped  for  the 
night  on  Walnut  Creek,  an  insignificant  brook  at  this  season, 
but  which  is  difficult  to  cross  after  rains.  This  is  the  point  at 
which  emigrants  to  Oregon  and  California,  from  Texas  and 
Arkansas,  generally  strike  this  road.  They  prefer  the  route 
which  leads  them  through  the  South  Pass — to  the  one  on  the 
Gila,  or  Cooke's  route,  where  little  or  no  timber  or  water  are 
found  for  long  distances.  Mr.  Leroux  again  rejoined  us  here 
with  the  intention  of  remaining  with  us.  In  the  evening,  the 
Delaware  brought  in  the  humps,  tongues,  and  marrow-bones  of 
two  fat  buffalo  cows.  Day's  march,  42  miles;  distance  from 
Westport,  271  miles. 

May  23.  "We  were  again  on  the  road  at  sunrise,  and  travel 
led  thirty-one  miles  to  the  Pawnee  Fork  of  the  Arkansas.  The 
sun  was  excessively  hot,  but  towards  noon  its  heat  was  tem 
pered  by  a  pleasant  breeze  from  the  northwest;  crossed  many 
gullies,  which  carry  water  only  after  heavy  rains.  We  passed, 
on  the  right  of  the  road,  a  remarkable  butte,  or  spur  of  the  hills, 
projecting  into  the  plain,  and  presenting  a  broad  surface  of 
smooth  rock,  thickly  inscribed  with  names.  This  landmark  is 
known  as  "  The  Pawnee  Eock." 

In  twenty  miles  from  last  camp,  we  came  to  a  well- wooded 
ravine,  after  which  the  country  became  more  undulating.  Paw 
nee  Fork  was  swollen  and  turbid  from  the  late  rains,  but  we 
got  good  water  from  a  spring  near  the  camp.  The  Delaware 
brought  in  a  fine  antelope  and  a  hare,  and  during  our  noon 
camp  shot  an  old  buffalo  cow,  much  bitten  by  wolves. 

Encamped  in  the  evening  near  a  pond  on  the  roadside, 
where  we  found  good  pasturage,  but  no  wood ;  bois  de  vache 
served  us  for  fuel.  Just  before  dark  an  enormous  wolf  boldly 
trotted  into  camp,  but  a  ball  from  the  Delaware's  rifle  sent  him 


FROM  WESTPORT  TO  THE  HUERFANO.  21 

scouring  over  the  plains,  minus  a  leg.  Several  bands  sur 
rounded  camp  all  night,  keeping  up  a  dismal  howling.  Day's 
march,  40  miles ;  distance  from  Westport,  311  miles. 

May  24.  Travelled  steadily  from  5|  A.  M.  until  noon,  when 
we  encamped  near  a  water-hole  on  the  roadside.  The  country 
was  flat  and  uninteresting.  Passed  through  many  prairie-dog 
villages,  whose  active  little  inhabitants  sat  in  their  holes,  with 
only  their  heads  appearing  above  the  surface,  barking  at  us 
with  the  appearance  of  great  wrath  at  our  intrusion.  Saw 
several  bands  of  antelopes  and  wolves ;  but  all  the  buffaloes  had 
disappeared.  Eesumed  our  journey  at  5  P.  M.,  and  traversed 
level  plains,  devoid  of  interest,  until  9  P.  M.,  when  we  reached 
the  Arkansas.  It  was  quite  dark  when  we  encamped,  and  we 
spread  our  blankets  without  supper.  The  rain  commenced 
falling  at  midnight,  and  continued  until  morning,  accompanied 
by  a  high  wind.  We  were,  of  course,  far  from  comfortable, 
having  no  shelter  whatever  from  the  storm;  but  to  Mr.  Leroux, 
who  was  taken  suddenly  ill,  this  inclement  weather  was  par 
ticularly  distressing.  He  was  attacked  with  pleurisy,  and  his 
sufferings  were  so  great  that  he  felt  convinced  that  this  place 
would  be  his  grave.  Day's  march,  45  miles ;  total  distance  from 
Westport,  356  miles. 

May  25.  We  were  glad  to  saddle  up  at  sunrise,  and  in  five 
miles  reached  Fort  Atkinson,  where  Major  Johnson,  the  officer 
in  command,  gave  us  a  cordial  reception.  Several  large  bands 
of  Indians,  of  the  Cheyenne  and  Arapahoe  tribes  were  con 
gregated  around  the  fort,  awaiting  the  arrival  of  Major  Fitz- 
patrick,  Indian  Agent,  whom  they  daily  expected.  As  it 
continued  to  rain  without  intermission  all  day,  we  concluded 
to  pass  the  night  in  the  fort,  where  Major  Johnson  had  pro 
vided  comfortable  accommodations  for  us.  Orders  had  just 
been  received  to  remove  this  post  to  Pawnee  Fork  of  the  Ar 
kansas,  one  hundred  miles  nearer  the  settlements.  It  will 
there  be  of  very  little  service,  for  it  is  already  too  near  to  the 
frontiers.  The  timber  at  Pawnee  Fork  being  mostly  cotton- 
woods,  it  is  not  suitable  for  building  purposes;  though  at  Fort 
Atkinson  there  is  none  whatever  nearer  than  fifteen  miles ;  and 
it  was  with  some  difficulty  that  we  obtained  a  few  small  logs 
for  our  men,  who  were  encamped  at  a  short  distance,  under 
tents,  borrowed  from  the  fort.  All  the  houses  are  in  a  dilapi- 


22  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

i 

dated  condition ;  a  few  are  built  of  adobes  (sun-dried  bricks), 
but  the  greater  part  are  constructed  of  sods.  Emigrants  fre 
quently  stop  here  to  settle  their  difficulties  with  Indians,  and 
with  each  other,  Major  Johnson  administering  justice  in  a 
prompt  and  impartial  manner.  A  few  days  before  our  arrival, 
a  quarrel  having  occurred  between  a  party  of  emigrants  and 
some  Cheyenne  Indians,  which  ended  in  blows,  Major  Johnson, 
upon  investigation,  finding  that  an  American  was  the  aggres 
sor,  immediately  ordered  him  back  to  the  States.  Mr.  Leroux 
being  still  too  ill  to  continue  the  journey,  remained  here  under 
the  care  of  the  surgeon  of  the  post ;  and  Mr.  W.  Riggs,  desiring 
to  return  to  the  States,  took  leave  of  us  at  this  point.  Day's 
travel,  5  miles  ;  whole  distance,  361  miles. 

May  26.  Although  it  still  continued  to  rain,  we  left  Fort 
Atkinson  at  noon,  and  travelled  up  the  left  bank  of  the  Ar 
kansas.  The  trail  from  Independence  to  Santa  Fd  crosses  the 
Arkansas  ten  miles  above  Fort  Atkinson;  and  there  is  another 
crossing  five  miles  higher  up.  The  rain  continued  without  in 
termission,  and  at  7  P.  M.  we  encamped,  after  a  rapid  ride  of 
thirty -five  miles.  Found  but  little  wood,  which  was  difficult  to 
kindle,  and  made  a  wretched  supper.  The  rain  poured  on  us 
all  night  without  cessation,  completely  saturating  our  blankets. 
The  Arkansas  was  rising  fast.  Day's  march,  35  miles ;  making 
396  from  Westport. 

May  27. — Heavy  rain  all  night;  raised  camp  at  6.30  A.M., 
and  until  nine  o'clock  our  route  was  up  the  left  bank  of 
the  Arkansas.  The  country  offered  no  variety.  The  river 
bottom  in  which  we  travelled  was  very  sloppy  from  •  the  late 
rains  ;  coarse  grass  we  found  in  abundance.  It  is  not  as  nourish 
ing  as  the  drier  grass  of  the  prairie,  which  the  mules  are  more 
partial  to.  We  passed  during  the  morning  several  large  parties 
of  emigrants  for  California  with  cattle.  Their  stock  was  in 
good  condition,  and  travelled  steadily  at  the  rate  of  fifteen  miles 
a  day.  Encamped  near  an  emigrant  train  at  noon  to  dry  our 
packs  and  clean  our  arms.  "We  had  killed  some  ducks,  which, 
with  milk  and  butter  from  the  emigrants,  enabled  us  to  make 
an  excellent  dinner.  Day's  march,  20  miles ;  total  distance,  416 
miles. 

May  28.— It  rained  lightly  all  night.  Started  at  6  A.  M.,  and 
travelled  up  the  left  bank  of  the  Arkansas  nineteen  miles  over 


FROM  WESTPORT  TO  THE  HUERFANO.  23 

a  rolling  country.  The  constant  emigration  on  this  route  has 
destroyed  nearly  all  the  timber  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Arkansas. 
The  emigrants  burn  more  wood  than  they  need,  and  frequently 
by  their  carelessness  destroy  much  valuable  timber,  as  well  as 
set  fire  to  the  prairies.  There  are  many  cottonwood  trees  on 
the  islands  of  the  Arkansas,  and  on  its  right  bank.  Encamped 
on  an  island  formed  by  the  rise  of  'the  river.  The  Delaware 
killed  a  fine  antelope  and  some  ducks.  Went  twelve  miles 
farther  in  the  afternoon,  and  encamped  on  an  island  (Chouteau's 
Island).  The  river  was  everywhere  fordable.  On  the  left  shore, 
opposite  to  us,  was  a  large  emigrant  train,  whose  cattle  were  in 
splendid  condition;  they  supplied  us  abundantly  with  milk. 
The  country  over  which  we  travelled  this  day  was  broken,  with 
low  hills  and  dry  ravines  running  towards  the  river.  They  had 
some  cottonwood  trees  in  them,  also  large  quantities  of  drift 
wood,  showing  that  they  discharge  much  water  during  rains, 
and  come  from  a  comparatively  wooded  country.  Day's  travel, 
31  miles ;  4A7  from  Westport. 

May  29. — At  sunrise,  recrossed  the  river  to  its  left  bank ; 
grass  still  coarse  and  rank.  The  water  of  the  Arkansas  is  very 
similar  in  color  and  taste  to  that  of  the  Missouri.  As  we  coasted 
up  the  left  bank  the  grass  became  coarser  and  scantier.  Passed 
a  singular  slaty  mound  on  the  right  of  the  road,  resembling  a 
pyramid  in  ruins.  Encamped  at  noon  near  a  slough  of  the 
river.  There  was  no  wood  near  enough  for  use ;  but  the  gene 
ral  resource  in  such  cases  on  the  plains  was  scattered  in  abund 
ance  around  us.  The  sun  was  very  hot,  but  at  times  tempered 
by  a  light  breeze  from  the  northwestward.  A  wagon  and  cattle 
train  of  emigrants  encamped  near  us.  In  the  afternoon,  we  as 
cended  the  river  eight  miles,  and  encamped  near  the  stream  in 
coarse,  wiry  grass,  as  in  fact  it  has  been  for  several  days  past. 
The  country  a  few  miles  from  the  river  has  scanty  grass  and 
dry  arid  soil.  In  the  evening,  we  had  a  large  company  of  emi 
grants  on  each  side  of  us.  Day's  travel,  36  miles ;  whole  distance, 
483  miles. 

May  30. — Raised  camp  soon  after  sunrise,  and  after  travelling 
twenty  miles,  encamped  in  the  "  Big  Timbers"  on  the  Arkansas. 
The  grass  on  the  plains  was  coarse,  and  not  very  abundant  on 
the  river.  This  place  is  a  favorite  resort  of  the  Indians  in  winter. 
They  here  find  a  good  shelter  from  the  bitterly  cold  winds  which 


24  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

then  sweep  over  these  plains,  and  their  horses  can  always  pick 
up  a  living  along  the  river.  This  grove  of  cottonwoods  extends 
for  several  miles.  They  are  large  and  grow  close  together. 
The  weather  was  cloudy  in  the  morning,  but  clear  at  noon  ; 
wind  southwest.  We  passed  this  morning  two  wagon  and 
cattle  trains  for  California  via  Great  Salt  Lake.  Washington 
Trainor,  of  California,  with  a  large  number  of  cattle,  and  about 
fifty  fine  horses  and  mules,  camped  near  us.  We  travelled 
twelve  miles  in  the  afternoon,  and  encamped  at  7  P.  M.  The 
country  had  become  more  interesting  and  rolling,  and  we  had 
occasionally  beautiful  views  of  the  Arkansas.  The  grass  im 
proved  as  we  ascended  the  river,  and  we  had  now  an  abundance 
of  timber,  particularly  where  we  encamped  for  the  night.  We 
passed  in  the  afternoon  the  old  trading-post  established  by 
Hatcher  for  the  convenience  of  trading  in  winter  with  the  In 
dians  at  the  "  Big  Timbers."  This  place  was  abandoned  when 
Bent's  Fort  was  given  up,  and  is  now  in  ruins.  Saw  many 
deer,  but  killed  only  a  few  ducks.  'Day's  travel,  32  miles ;  total 
distance,  515  miles. 

May  31.  Swarms  of  mosquitoes  prevented  much  sleep. 
Thunder  and  lightning  north  and  south  of  us  all  night. 
Started  at  sunrise ;  the  sky  was  clear  and  weather  cool,  with  a 
bracing  wind  from  the  northwest ;  in  a  few  hours  it  veered  to 
the  southwest.  At  ten  o'clock,  we  had  our  first  view  of  the 
Spanish  Peaks,  distant  about  seventy  miles.  Travelled  up  the 
left  bank  of  the  Arkansas,  and  obtained  at  times  several  pic 
turesque  views  of  the  river,  which  is  occasionally  hemmed  in 
by  rocky  cliffs.  The  country  was  more  rolling,  stony,  and 
dry  than  on  the  preceding  day.  Saw  many  deer  and  antelopes. 
At  ten  o'clock,  we  passed  the  mouth  of  Purgatoire  Kiver,  flowi 
ing  into  the  Arkansas  from  the  southwestward.  Beds  of  excel 
lent  coal  have  been  discovered  on  this  stream,  which  will  be  of 
inestimable  value  hereafter.  At  twelve,  encamped  on  "  Lower 
Dry  Creek,"  where  we  found  scanty  dry  grass  and  water  in 
pools.  The  Delaware  brought  in  two  fine  antelopes.  Travelled 
ten  miles  in  the  afternoon,  and  encamped  three  miles  above 
Bent's  Fort.  We  rode  all  through  the  ruins,  which  present  a 
strange  appearance  in  these  solitudes.  A  few  years  ago  this 
post  was  frequented  by  numerous  trappers  and  Indians,  and  at 
times  exhibited  a  scene  of  wild  confusion.  It  is  now  roofless ; 


FROM  WESTPORT  TO  THE  HUERFANO.  25 

for  when  the  United  States  refused  to  purchase  it,  the  proprie 
tors  set  it  on  fire  to  prevent  its  becoming  a  harbor  for  Indians. 
The  adobe  walls  are  still  standing,  and  are  in  many  places  of 
great  thickness.  They  were  covered  with  written  messages  from 
parties  who  had  already  passed  here  to  their  friends  in  the 
rear;  they  all  stated  that  their  herds  were  in  good  condition, 
and  progressing  finely.  Day's  march,  35  miles ;  distance  from 
Westport,  550  miles. 

June  1.  The  weather  in  the  morning  was  pleasant,  and  the 
wind  from  the  northwest  cooled  by  passing  over  the  snow-clad 
peaks  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  According  to  our  maps,  we 
were  now  within  an  easy  day's  travel  of  the  mouth  of  the  Huer- 
fano  (Orphan's  River),  and  were  impatient  to  reach  that  point, 
as  we  there  intended  to  diverge  from  the  beaten  track,  and, 
leaving  the  Arkansas  behind  us,  traverse  the  plains  lying  be 
tween  that  river  and  the  base  of  the  Spanish  Peaks,  Sangre  de 
Cristo  Mountains,  and  the  Sierra  Mojada. 

Started  before  sunrise;  the  road  leading  occasionally  on  the 
Arkansas  bottom,  but  more  frequently  over  the  upper  plain. 
The  bottom  was  covered  with  an  abundance  of  coarse  grass, 
whereas,  on  the  plain,  it  was  scanty,  and  in  bunches.  Proceed 
ing  four  miles  we"  crossed  Upper  Dry  Creek,  which  is  seven 
miles  from  Bent's  Fort;  and,  in  twelve  more,  passed  a  large 
pond.  Many  large  bands  of  antelope  and  deer  bounded  away 
on  either  side  as  we  advanced.  At  half-past  .twelve  we. ascended 
a  remarkable  spur,  which  projects  into  the  river-bottom,  and 
can  be  seen  for  fifteen  miles  below;  it  .bears  northeast  from 
the  Spanish  Peaks.  From  this  point  we  could  mark  the-  course 
of  Timpas  Creek  from  the  mountains  to  its  junction  with  the 
Arkansas.  On  the  right  bank  of  the  Timpas,  near  its  mouth, 
are  several  singular  buttes,  two  of  which  are  conioal,  and  the 
remainder  flat-topped.  Our  noon  camp  was  two -miles  below 
the  Timpas,  and  about  twenty-eight  above  Bent's  Fort.  As 
this  was  the  distance  from  Bent's  Fort  at  which  the  mouth  of 
the  Huerfano  was  placed  on  our  maps,  we  expected  to  reach  it 
before  dark ;  bat  found  that  we  would  have  to  travel  sixteen 
or  seventeen  miles  farther  up  the  Arkansas.  In  fact,  from 
this  point  until  we  reached  the  Mormon  settlement  on  Little 
Salt  Lake,  we  could  place  no  reliance  on  the  maps.  Crossed 
the  Arkansas  one  mile  above  the  mouth  of  the  Timpas,  and 
3 


26  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

had  no  difficulty  in  fording  it,  though,  without  due  caution, 
animals  are  liable  to  get  entangled  in  quicksands.  The  grass 
on  the  plains  west  of  the  Arkansas  was  more  abundant  and  of 
a  better  quality  than  that  on  the  side  we  had  just  left ;  there 
was  also  much  grama  grass  and  cactus.  The  water  of  the 
Timpas,  which  was  found  in  holes  only,  was  cool,  but  slightly 
brackish.  The  night  was  bright  and  starry,  and  illuminated 
during  part  of  the  evening  by  a  beautiful  aurora  borealis. 
Day's  travel,  30  miles;  distance  from  Westport,  580  miles. 

June  2.  Left  the  Timpas  at  early  dawn,  and  discerned  at  a 
distance  of  fifteen  miles  several  high  buttes,  bearing  due  west, 
in  a  line  with  the  southern  end  of  the  Sierra  Mojada ;  towards 
these  we  now  directed  our  course.  The  country  was  gradually 
rolling  towards  the  buttes,  and  covered  with  abundant  bunch 
grass;  the  prickly  pear,  or  cactus,  which  grows  in  clusters  close 
to  the  ground,  was  at  times  very  distressing  to  our  mules; 
their  constant  efforts  to  avoid  treading  on  this  annoying  plant 
gave  them  an  uneasy,  jerking  gait,  very  harassing  to  their 
riders  during  a  long  day's  march.  Upon  reaching  the  summit 
of  the  buttes,  a  magnificent  and  extensive  panorama  was  opened 
to  our  view.  The  horizon  was  bounded  on  the  north  by  Pike's 
Peak,  northwest  and  west  by  the  Sierra  Mojada,  Sangre  de 
Cristo  Mountains,  and  Spanish  Peaks ;  to  the  south  and  east 
extended  the  prairie,  lost  in  the  hazy  distance.  On  the  gently 
undulating  plains,  reaching  to  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  could 
be  traced  the  courses  of  the  Arkansas  and  Sage  Creek  by  their 
lines  of  timber.  The  Apispah,  an  affluent  of  the  Arkansas, 
issuing  from  the  Sierra  Mojada,  was  concealed  from  sight  by  a 
range  of  intervening  buttes,  while  the  object  of  our  search, 
the  Huerfano,  flowed  at  our  feet,  distant  about  three  miles,  its 
course  easy  to  be  distinguished  from  the  point  where  it  issued 
from  the  mountains  to  its  junction  with  the  Arkansas,  except 
at  short  intervals,  where  it  passed  through  canons  in  the  plain. 
Pike's  Peak,  whose  head  was  capped  with  eternal  snows,  was  a 
prominent  object  in  the  landscape,  soaring  high  above  all  neigh 
boring  summits. 

Descending  the  buttes  to  the  Huerfano,  we  encamped  on  it 
about  five  miles  above  its  mouth.  A  bold  and  rapid  stream, 
its  waters  were  turbid,  but  sweet  and  cool;  the  river-bottom 
was  broad,  and  thickly  wooded  with  willows  and  cottonwoods, 


FROM  WESTPORT  TO  THE  HUERFANO.  27 

interlaced  with  the  wild  rose  and  grape- vine,  and  carpeted  with 
soft  grass — a  sylvan  paradise.  This  stream  was  about  twenty- 
five  yards  in  breadth,  and  five  feet  deep  close  to  the  bank. 
Bands  of  antelope  and  deer  dotted  the  plain,  one  of  which 
served  us  for  supper,  brought  down  by  the  unerring  rifle  of 
Dick,  the  Delaware. 

This  camp  was  to  us  a  scene  of  real  enjoyment ;  a  long  and 
tedious  march,  over  plains  of  unvarying  sameness,  was  over, 
and  we  were  now  on  the  eve  of  entering  upon  a  new  and  unex 
plored  country,  which  promised  to  the  admirers  of  nature  a 
rich  and  ever-varying  treat.  The  hunters  of  the  party  also 
looked  forward  with  impatience  to  reaching  the  mountains, 
where  game  of  every  description  was  said  to  abound,  and  where 
it  would  not  be  necessary  to  exercise  the  great  patience  and  per 
severance,  without  which  it  is  difficult  to  approach  deer  and 
antelope  on  the  plains;  the  Delaware  possessed  both  these 
requisites  in  perfection,  and  gave  us  daily  proofs  of  his  skill. 
~\Ve  noticed,  whilst  travelling  along  the  same  route  with  emi 
grants,  that  although  game  was  at  times  comparatively  scarce 
near  the  road,  it  was  not  owing  to  the  number  they  destroyed, 
but  rather  to  the  constant  fusillade  which  they  kept  up  on  every 
thing  living,  from  a  buffalo  to  a  goffer,  and  from  a  grouse  to  a 
blackbird. 

In  the  afternoon,  we  continued  up  the  Huerfano  about  a  mile, 
and  crossed  over  to  the  left  bank ;  the  ford  was  good  and  but 
three  feet  deep.  Fine  grama  grass  grew  on  the  upper  plain  on 
each  side  of  the  river,  and  an  abundance  of  rich  grass  on  the 
bottom  land.  A  large  growth  of  cottonwoods  line  the  banks 
of  this  stream  for  twelve  miles  above  its  mouth,  though  higher 
up  it  is  not  so  heavily  timbered.  It  is  hemmed  in  at  intervals 
by  picturesque  bluffs  of  sandstone. 

The  following  are  the  bearings  of  the  mouth  of  the  Huerfano ; 
Pike's  Peak,  northwest;  northern  Spanish  Peak,  south-southwest; 
southern  Spanish  Peak,  south  by  west.  General  course  of  the 
river,  from  southwest  to  northeast.  Day's  journey,  28  miles ; 
total,  608  miles. 


28  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 


CHAPTER   II. 

i 

ROUTE  FROM  HUERFANO  RIVER  TO  COOCHATOPE  PASS. 

June  3.  Our  camp  the  preceding  night  was  a  mile  below  the 
lower  end  of  the  canon  through  which  the  Huerfano  forces  a 
passage ;  this  chasm  is  about  ten  miles  in  length,  and  the  ground 
on  each  side  is  much  cut  up  by  deep  and  rocky  ravines  running 
into  it.  I.rqde  up  to  its  entrance  to  sketch;  the  scenery  was 
wild  and  beautiful ;  wild  turkeys  flew  away  at  my  approach, 
and  the  startled  deer  rose  from  their  beds  in  the  grass  at  the 
bottom  of  the  canon,  making  their  escape  up  a  ravine  to  the 
plain.  A  line'  of  bluffs  riins  parallel  to  the  Huerfano  on  the 
west  from  two  to  five  miles  distant;  and  wagons  should  travel 
at  their  base  to  avoid  the  broken  ground  nearer  the  stream ; 
a  thick  growth  of  dwarf  pines  and  cedars  covers  their  summits. 
The  wagon  trail  from  the  Greenhorn  and  Hardscrabble  settle 
ments  on  the  upper  Arkansas  approaches'  the  Huerfano  below 
this  canon,  leaves  it  there,  and  returns  to  it  above. 

After  a  ride  of  twenty-four  miles  up  the  left  bank  we  en 
camped  to  noon  on  a  gully  where  we  found  water  in  rocky 
hollows;  the  pasturage  was  excellent, 'as  in  fact  it  had  been 
since  reaching  the  Huerfano,  for  we  had  not  seen  better  since 
leaving  Council  Grove.  The  scenery,  as  we  approached  the 
country  between  the  Spanish  Peaks  and  the  Sierra  Mojada,  was 
picturesque  and  beautiful;  mountains  towered  high  above  us, 
the  summits  of  some  covered  with  snow,  while  the  dense  forests 
of  dark  pines  which  clothed  their  sides,  contrasted  well  with 
the  light  green  of  the  meadows  near  their  base.  All  day,  heavy 
clouds  had  been  gathering  on  the  mountain-tops,  portending  a 
storm;  at  noon  it  broke,  covering  them  with  snow,  and  soon 
after  swept  over  the  plains.  Here  it  rained  in  torrents,  accom 
panied  by  a  Avesterly  wind,  which  blew  with  such  fury  as  to 


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FROM  THE  HUERFANO  TO  COOCHATOPE  PASS.  29 

render  it  impossible  for  man  or  beast  to  face  it ;  at  the  cross 
ing  of  Apache  Creek,  a  small  affluent  of  the  Huerfano,  we  were 
compelled  to  turn  our  backs  to  the  gale  and  wait  patiently  for 
its  subsidence.  Long  before  the  rain  had  ceased  on  the  plains, 
the  mountain  tops  were  again  glittering  in  the  setting  sun,  the 
newly  fallen  snow  sparkling  in  his  beams,  tinged  with  a  rosy 
hue.  Soon  after  dark  we  encamped  on  the  Huerfano,  in  the 
midst  of  luxuriant  grass.  Our  packs  and  bedding  had  got  wet, 
the  ground  was  spongy  and  boggy,  and,  although  the  rain  had 
ceased,  a  heavy  dew  fell  during  the  night,  which  completely 
saturated  us ;  we  made  our  beds  in  deep  mud.  About  a  mile 
beyond  our  camping  place  stood  the  Huerfano  Butte,  which  is 
so  prominent  a  landmark.  Day's  march,  34  miles ;  total  dis 
tance  from  "West-port,  642  miles. 

June  4.  I  rode  ahead  of  camp,  to  Huerfano  Butte,  a  remark 
able  mound,  bearing  north  from  the  southernmost  Spanish  Peak, 
and  about  fifty  yards  from  the  right  bank  of  the  river ;  its  ap 
pearance  was  that  of  a  huge  artificial  mound  of  stones,  covered 
half-way  up  from  its  base  with  a  dense  growth  of  bushes.  It  is 
probably  of  volcanic  origin,  and  there  are  many  indications  in 
this  region  of  the- action  of  internal  fires. 

Our  ride  to-day  was  full  of  interest,  for  we  were  now  ap 
proaching  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  Pass,  in  the  Sangre  de  Cristo 
Mountains.  We  had  been  travelling  for  eighteen  days,  over  an 
uninterrupted  plain,  until  its  monotony  had  become  extremely 
wearisome.  The  mountain  scenery,  which  we  entered  soon 
after  raising  camp  this  morning,  was  of  the  most  picturesque 
description.  We  crossed  the  Huerfano  seven  miles  above  the 
Butte;  at  this  point  it  issues  from  a  canon  one  hundred  and 
fifty  yards  in  length;  above  it  the  valley,  watered  by  the 
Huerfano,  forms  a  beautiful  plain  of  small  extent,  surrounded 
by  lofty  and  well-wooded  mountains ;  numerous  rills  trickle 
down  their  sides,  irrigate  the  plain,  and  join  their  waters  to 
those  of  the  Huerfano,  which  are  here  clear  and  cold.  We  did 
not  enter  this  valley,  but  left  the  H.  after  crossing  it,  and 
followed  up  the  bed  of  one  of  its  tributaries,  the  Cuchada,  a 
small  brook  rising  near  the  summit  of  the  Sangre  de  Cristo 
Pass.  This  small  valley  of  the  Huerfano  contains  about  six 
hundred  acres,  and  forms  a  most  ravishing  picture ;  it  would 
be  a  good  place  for  recruiting  cattle  after  their  weary  march 


30  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

across  the  plains,  as  they  would  be  perfectly  secure  and  sheltered, 
and  the  pasturage  is  excellent.  This,  however,  is  the  case  all 
through  these  mountains,  for  waving  grass,  gemmed  with  flowers 
of  every  hue,  covers  them  to  their  summits,  except  in  the  region 
of  snow.  The  Cuchada  led  us  up  a  succession  of  valleys  of  an 
easy  grade.  We  were  now  travelling  on  an  Indian  trail ;  for 
the  wagon  trail,  which  I  believe  was  made  by  Roubitleau's 
wagons,  deviated  to  the  right,  and  went  through  the  pass  named 
after  him.  This  pass  is  so  low  that  we  perceived  through  it  a 
range  of  sand  hills  of  moderate  height,  in  San  Luis  valley ;  to 
have  gone  through  it,  however,  would  have  occasioned  us 
the  loss  of  a  day  in  reaching  Fort  Massachusetts,  though  it  is 
the  shortest  and  most  direct  route  to  the  Coochatope;  and 
Mr.  Beale's  views  constrained  him  to  take  the  most  direct 
route  to  Fort  Massachusetts,  where  he  expected  to  obtain  a 
guide  through  the  unexplored  country  between  New  Mexico 
and  Utah,  and  also  to  procure  some  mules.  We  were  there 
fore  very  reluctantly  compelled  to  forego  the  examination  of 
Roubideau's  Pass. 

Encamped  at  noon  at  the  foot  of  a  remarkable  rock,  watered 
at  its  base  by  the  Cuchada ;  it  resembled  the  ruined  front  of  a 
Gothic  church.  Encamped  for  the  night  six  miles  farther  up 
the  valley,  and  near  the  summit  of  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  Pass. 
An  excellent  wagon  road  might  be  made  over  these  mountains, 
by  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  Pass,  and  a  still  better  one  through 
Eoubideau's. 

The  grass  around  our  encampment  was  really  magnificent ;  it 
was  in  a  large  mountain  meadow,  watered  by  numerous  springs 
and  girt  in  by  dark  pines.  Through  an  opening  in  the 
mountains,  to  the  eastward,  we  could  see  the  sunny  plains 
of  the  Arkansas  and  Huerfano,  with  its  remarkable  butte, 
whilst  around  us  heavy  clouds  were  collecting,  giving  warning 
of  a  storm  and  wet  night.  We  made  ourselves  shelters  and 
beds  of  pine  boughs.  The  Delaware  had  killed  a  fat  antelope, 
which  furnished  us  a  hearty  supper ;  and  we  sat  around  our  fire, 
until  a  late  hour,  well  pleased  with  having  accomplished  in  such 
good  time  and  without  accident  the  first  stage  of  our  journey, 
for  we  expected  to  reach  Fort  Massachusetts  at  an  early  hour 
next  day.  Day's  march,  26  miles ;  total  distance,  668  miles. 

June  5.  The  rain  fell  at  intervals  all  night,  but  the  clouds 


FROM  THE  HUERFANO  TO  COOCHATOPE  PASS.  31 

dispersed  before  dawn,  and  the  sun  rose  in  a  bright  and  clear 
sky ;  the  plains,  however,  were  concealed  under  a  sea  of  snowy 
mist. 

Continued  our  course  to  the  southwestward  through  thick 
pine  woods,  and  in  one  mile  we  reached  the  head  waters  of  Sangre 
de  Cristo  Creek,  flowing  into  the  Del  Norte  after  its  junction 
with  the  Trinchera.  The  Sangre  de  Cristo  mountains,  and  the 
Sierras  Blanca  and  Mojada,  were  covered  with  snow.  We  fol 
lowed  down  the  Sangre  de  Cristo,  which  every  moment  in 
creased  in  size,  its  clear  and  icy  waters  leaping  over  rocks,  and 
the  mountain  sides  were  covered  with  tender  grass,  strawberry 
blossoms,  and  violets. 

On  our  maps,  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  is  improperly  named  In 
dian  Creek,  which  is  a  fork  of  the  Sangre  de  Cristo,  and  is  not 
named  at  all  on  them.  Up  Indian  Creek,  I  am  informed,  there 
exists  an  excellent  pass  from  San  Luis  valley  to  the  plains  on 
the  eastern  side  of  the  mountains. 

After  crossing  Indian  Creek,  we  halted  a  few  minutes  to 
make  our  toilets  previous  to  our  arrival  at  Fort  Massachusetts; 
and,  although  our  hunter  had  just  ridden  into  camp  with  a 
haunch  of  fat  venison  behind  his  saddle,  and  our  appetites, 
which  were  at  all  times  excellent,  had  been  sharpened  by  a 
long  mountain  ride  without  breakfast,  we  were  too  impatient 
to  reach  the  fort  to  lose  time  in  camping.  We  arrived  there  late 
in  the  afternoon,  and  received  a  warm  and  hospitable  welcome 
from  Major  Blake,  the  officer  in  command,  Lieutenants  Jackson 
and  Johnson,  and  Dr.  Magruder.  An  incipient  rain-storm  made 
us  feel  sensible  that  we  were  still  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Sierra 
Mojada  (or  Wet  Mountains),  which  well  merit  the  name,  for 
rain  fell  every  day  that  we  were  in  or  near  them ;  on  the  high 
est  peaks  in  the  form  of  snow,  and  lower  down  in  hazy  moist 
ure,  alternating  with  drenching  showers.  This  humidity  gives 
great  fertility  to  this  region,  and  the  country  bordering  on  the 
sides  of  these  mountains,  as  well  as  the  valleys  within  their 
recesses,  are  unequalled  in  loveliness  and  richness  of  vegetation. 
To  the  settler,  they  offer  every  inducement;  and  I  have  no 
doubt  that  in  a  few  years  this  tract  of  country  will  vie  with 
California  or  Australia  in  the  number  of  immigrants  it  will 
invite  to  it.  It  is  by  far  the  most  beautiful  as  well  as  the  most 
fertile  portion  of  New  Mexico,  and  a  remarkably  level  country 


32  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

unites  it  with  the  western  frontier  of  the  Atlantic  States.  As 
soon  as  this  is  thrown  open  to  settlement,  a  continuous  line 
of  farms  will  be  established,  by  which  the  agricultural  and 
mineral  wealth  of  this  region  will  be  developed.  Communica 
tion  will  then  be  more  rapid,  and  instead  of  the  mail  being,  as 
it  is  now,  thirty  .days  in  reaching  Fort  Massachusetts,  it  will  be 
carried  through  in  eight  or  ten. 

Messrs.  Beale,  Riggs,  Rogers,  and  myself  quartered  at  the 
Fort ;  the  men  encamped  two  miles  below  on  Utah  Creek,  in  a 
beautiful  grove  of  cottonwoods.  A  tent  was  sent  to  them,  and 
with  fresh  bread  and  meat  they  were  soon  rendered  perfectly 
comfortable.  There  was  excellent  pasturage  around  their  en 
campment,  on  which  the  mules  soon  forgot  the  hard  marches  they 
had  made  since  leaving  Westport.  Day's  travel,  25  miles ;  total 
distance  from  "Westport  to  Fort  Massachusetts,  693  miles. 

June  14.  As  it  was  found  impossible  to  obtain  here  the  men 
and  animals  that  we  required,  and  that  it  would  be  necessary  to 
go  to  Taos,  and  perhaps  to  Santa  Fe,  for  this  purpose,  Mr.  Beale 
and  Major  Blake  left  for  the  former  place  on  the  morning  after 
our  arrival  at  the  fort.  Taos  is  about  eighty,  and  Santa  F£ 
about  one  hundred  and  forty  miles  to  the  southward. 

During  our  detention  at  Fort  Massachusetts,  I  took  frequent 
rides  into  the  mountains  on  each  side  of  it. 

This  post  is  situated  in  a  narrow  gorge  through  which  the 
Utah  rushes  until  it  joins  the  Trinchera,  and  is  a  quadrangular 
stockade  of  pine  log  pickets,  inclosing  comfortable  quarters  for 
one  hundred  and  fifty  men,  cavalry  and  infantry.  Lofty  and 
precipitous  mountains  surround  it  on  three  sides  ;  and  although 
the  situation  may  be  suitable  for  a  grazing  farm  on  account  of 
the  pasturage,  and  the  abundance  of  good  timber  may  render 
this  a  convenient  point  for  a  military  station,  it  is  too  far  re 
moved  from  the  general  track  of  Indians  to  be  of  much  service 
in  protecting  the  settlements  in  San  Luis  valley  from  their  in 
sults  and  ravages.  The  Utahs,  who  infest  the  Sahwatch  mount 
ains,  enter  San  Luis  valley  by  the  Carnero  and  Coochatope 
Passes  from  the  westward,  and  by  those  of  Del  Punche,  Del 
Medino,  and  Del  Mosque  from  the  northward  and  northeastward, 
and  a  post  established  at  the  head  of  the  valley  of  San  Luis 
would  be  much  more  effective  in  keeping  these  marauders  in 
check,  as  it  would  there  be  able  to  prevent,  if  necessary,  their 


FROM  THE  HUERFANO  TO  COOCHATOPE  PASS.  33 

descending  into  the  valley  in  large  numbers,  and  completely 
cut  off  their  retreat  with  their  booty.  The  valley  of  the  Sah- 
watch,  so  rich  in  pasturage,  so  well  adapted  to  tillage,  and  so 
abundantly  watered  and  timbered,  appears  to  offer  the  best  posi 
tion  for  a  fort,  and  it  would  be  as  accessible  from  Taos  as  the  post 
on  the  Utah,  although  the  distance  would  of  course  be  greater. 

The  cavalry  at  Fort  Massachusetts  numbered  seventy-five 
men,  of  whom  forty-five  were  mounted.  Though  their  horses 
were  excellently  groomed  and  stabled,  and  kept  in  high  con 
dition  on  corn,  at  six  dollars  a  bushel,  they  would  soon  break 
down  on  a  march  in  pursuit  of  Indians  mounted  on  horses  fed 
on  grass,  and  accustomed  to  gallop  at  half  speed  up  or  down  the 
steepest  hills.  Corn-fed  animals  lose  their  strength  when  they 
are  put  on  grass,  and  do  not  soon  get  accustomed  to  the  change 
of  diet.  Of  this  fact  the  officers  at  the  fort  were  perfectly  sen 
sible,  and  regretted  that  they  were  not  better  prepared  for  any 
sudden  emergency. 

The  weather  during  our  stay  at  the  fort  was  cool  and  bracing ; 
wind  generally  from  the  southwest,  with  frequent  showers  of 
rain. 

Mr.  Beale  returned  from  the  southern  country  late  in  the 
afternoon  of  this  day,  and  brought  with  him  a  guide,  and  a 
Mexican  arriero  (muleteer) ;  they  were  cousins,  and  both  named 
Felipe  Archilete.  Jesus  Garcia  was  discharged  here,  and  Patrick 
Dolan,  a  soldier  who  had  served  out  his  time,  hired  in  his  place. 
Our  party  now  numbered  fourteen. 

The  guide,  Felipe  Archilete,  or  "  Peg-Leg,"  for  it  was  by  this 
sobriquet  that  he  was  commonly  known  to  Americans,  deserves 
particular  mention.  He  had  spent  the  greater  part  of  his  life  trad 
ing  and  trapping  in  the  Indian  country,  and  his  accurate  know 
ledge  of  the  region  between  the  Arkansas  and  Sevier  River  in 
Utah  Territory,  as  well  as  his  acquaintance  with  the  Utah 
tongue,  promised  to  render  him  of  great  service  to  us  in  the 
absence  of  Mr.  Leroux.  A  few  years  ago,  in  a  skirmish  with 
the  Utahs,  he  was  wounded  in  the  left  ankle  with  a  rifle  ball, 
which  completely  crippled  his  foot,  and  compelled  him  to  use 
at  times  a  wooden  leg,  which  he  carried  suspended  to  his  waist. 
Notwithstanding  his  lameness,  he  was  one  of  the  most  active 
men  of  the  party,  and  was  always  the  foremost  in  times  of  diffi 
culty  and  danger. 


34  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

During  Mr.  Beale's  absence,  I  replenished  our  provisions  from 
the  sutler's  store,  and  had  a  small  supply  of  biscuit  baked ;  a 
bullock  which  I  purchased  from  the  quartermaster,  was  cut  up 
and  jerked  by  the  Delaware,  and  the  mules  were  reshod,  and  a 
supply  of  spare  shoes  and  nails  obtained.  They  were  completely 
rested,  and  in  even  better  condition  than  when  we  started  from 
Westport ;  after  a  general  overhauling  of  the  camp  equipage 
by  the  men,  everything  was  put  in  order  for  resuming  our 
journey,  as  soon  as  Mr.  Beale  should  return. 

June  15.  Bidding  adieu  to  our  kind  friends  at  the  fort,  we 
resumed  our  journey  at  noon,  and  travelled  down  Utah  Creek 
south-southwest,  until  it  debouched  in  the  valley  of  San  Luis, 
when  we  altered  our  course  to  west  by  north.  In  six  miles 
from  Fort  Massachusetts,  we  crossed  the  trail  of  Eoubideau's 
wagons  from  the  upper  Arkansas  settlements ;  they  entered 
through  Eoubideau's  Pass  in  the  Sierra  Mojada.  After  crossing 
it,  our  route  led  us  over  a  level  plain  covered  with  artemisia,  cacti, 
and  patches  of  the  nutritious  gram  a.  A  ride  of  twenty -five  miles 
brought  us  at  dark  to  a  slough  of  the  Eio  del  Norte,  where  we 
encamped.  Day's  march,  25  miles ;  total  distance  from  West- 
port,  718  miles. 

June  16.  Our  animals  were  inclined  to  stray  back  to  the  fort, 
but  by  constant  watchfulness  during  the  night  they  were  pre 
vented  from  wandering  too  far  from  camp.  We  never  hobbled 
nor  picketed  our  mules,  unless  compelled  to  do  so  by  circum 
stances,  for  it  was  noticed  that  when  thus  confined  they  did  not 
eat  as  heartily  as  when  allowed  to  range  freely  in  search  of  the 
grass  they  preferred.  It  was  the  duty  of  the  men  on  guard  to 
prevent  their  straying,  and  this  added  much  to  our  fatigue. 

Having  ascertained  that  our  supply  of  lead  was  insufficient, 
Mr.  Eogers  and  myself  started  at  4  A.  M.  to  return  to  Fort 
Massachusetts  to  procure  more.  We  crossed  a  spur  of  the 
mountains  in  a  direct  line  to  the  fort,  instead  of  going  round 
by  their  base,  thereby  saving  four  or  five  miles  of  the  distance. 
The  trail  was  much  obstructed  by  trees  and  brush ;  but  we 
reached  the  fort  at  an  early  hour,  and  also  avoided-  a  very 
troublesome  marsh,  where  some  of  our  mules  were  mired  the 
day  before. 

At  the  fort,  we  engaged  Juan  Lente  as  arriero  (muleteer),  and 
bought  a  mule  for  him.  On  returning  to  our  last  camping  place, 


FROM  THE  HUERFAXO  TO  COOCHATOPE  PASS.  35 

Lieut.  Johnson  gave  us  an  escort  of  two  dragoons.  The  wea 
ther  was  cool  and  pleasant  in  the  morning,  but  warm  in  the 
afternoon.  Having  started  from  the  fort  at  2  P.  M.  we  did  not 
reach  the  slough  on  the  Del  Norte  until  8J  P.M. 

The  camp  had  left  in  the  morning,  and  had  crossed  the  bot 
tom  lands  of  the  Del  Norte,  eighteen  miles  in  breadth  ;  this 
crossing  is  at  times  difficult  and  dangerous  on  account  of  the 
numerous  sloughs  and  marshes,  which  can  be  altogether  avoided, 
however,  by  a  circuit  of  a  few  miles. 

Midway  to  the  river  they  fell  in  with  some  Utah  Indians, 
hunting  wild  horses ;  the  Indians  were  the  first  to  discover  our 
party,  and  the  foremost  stood  upright  on  his  horse,  in  order  to 
obtain  a  better  view;  he  counted  their  number,  and  signalized 
his  discovery  with  his  gun  to  his  comrades,  who  thereupon  ap 
proached  at  full  speed.  They  had  their  squaws  with  them  and 
some  children,  all  mounted  on  good  horses,  and  were  quite 
friendly.  In  the  course  of  the  day  they  lassoed  a  mustang,  but 
strangled  him  in  their  eagerness  to  secure  their  prize.  18  miles; 
736  miles. 

June  17.  Mr.  Eogers  and  myself  started  at  3  A.  M.,  and 
overtook  our  party  at  8.30  A.  M..  as  they  were  preparing  to 
raise  camp.  AVe  proceeded  immediately  on  our  journey,  and 
coasting  up  the  left  bank  of  the  Del  Norte  about  ten  miles,  left 
it  where  it  made  a  bend  to  the  westward,  directing  our  course 
north  by  west  to  the  Sahwatch  valley,  the  commencement  of 
the  Coochatope  Pass.  Before  leaving  the  Del  Norte,  the  In 
dians  were  asked  whether  there  was  water  in  the  direction  in 
which  we  were  going ;  for  the  commencement  of  the  Sahwatch 
valley  was  about  thirty  miles  distant.  They  replied  that  we 
should  find  water  and  grass  by  going  around  by  the  foot  of  the 
mountains,  but  none  by  going  direct.  The  circuitous  route 
they  recommended  would  have  occupied  us  two  days,  whilst  we 
hoped  to  accomplish  the  distance  direct  before  night.  Our  red 
friends  were  unwilling  to  venture  with  us,  and  bade  us  farewell; 
we  parted  with  them  on  friendly  terms ;  they  had  spent  the 
night  in  our  camp,  shared  our  supper  and  breakfast,  and  smoked 
our  pipes. 

The  plain  was  as  level  as  the  sea  to  the  foot  of  the  mount 
ains,  which  inclose  San  Luis  valley.  A  low  spur  of  hills  to 
the  northward,  indicated  the  entrance  to  the  valley  of  the  Sah- 


36  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

watch.  In  fourteen  miles  from  the  point  where  we  left  the 
river,  we  crossed  a  fine  brook  of  clear  and  cool  water — the  Rio  de 
la  Garita,  which  rises  in  the  Sahwatch  mountains,  and,  flowing 
.east,  discharges  itself  into  a  large  lagoon  at  the  base  of  the 
Sierra  Mojada,  in  the  northern  part  of  the  valley  of  San  Luis. 
Its  banks  were  swampy,  and,  although  later  in  the  season  this 
inconvenience  probably  does  not  exist,  wagons  would  do  well 
to  cross  it  nearer  to  the  mountains  on  the  left.  Our  course  was 
in  the  face  of  a  breeze  which  raised  clouds  of  dust  wherever 
the  soil  was  loosened  by  our  animals'  feet,  and  those  riding  in 
the  rear  suffered  much  inconvenience  from  it.  In  ten  miles 
from  the  Rio  Garita,  we  came  to  an  abundant  spring,  surrounded 
by  good  grass,  where  we  rested  but  a  moment  to  drink,  though 
we  had  travelled  steadily  since  morning  without  eating.  Mr. 
Beale  was  anxious  to  reach  the  entrance  of  the  Sahwatch 
valley  before  evening,  and  to  regain  some  of  the  time  which 
had  been  unavoidably  lost  at  Fort  Massachusetts.  At  the 
spring  we  found  a  trail  leading  to  the  Sahwatch  valley,  and  as 
soon  as  our  mules  struck  it  they  stepped  out  with  fresh  spirit. 
The  valley  of  San  Luis,  to  the  commencement  of  the  Sahwatch 
is  singularly  level,  the  smooth  ground  seeming  only  to  have  the 
natural  curve  of  the  earth.  The  only  vegetation,  excepting  in 
the  vicinity  of  water,  was  artemisia,  cactus,  and  occasionally 
grama  grass. 

The  valley  of  the  Sahwatch  has  two  entrances  from  that  of 
San  Luis.  The  one  which  we  selected,  on  account  of  its  being 
the  nearest,  is  called  by  the  Spaniards  El  Rincon  del  Sahwatch 
(the  corner  of  the  Sahwatch),  as  it  forms  a  cut-off'  into  Sah 
watch  valley  proper.  The  main  entrance  is  a  few  miles  farther 
on.  We  went  three  miles  up  the  Rincon,  and  encamped  at 
sunset  at  a  spring  of  excellent  water,  where  our  mules  found 
fine  pasturage.  Mr.  Rogers  and  myself  rode  sixty-eight  miles 
this  day,  and  fifty  the  day  before;  which  I  mention  to  show  the 
facility  of  travelling  in  this  region.  Day's  march,  50  miles ; 
whole  distance,  786  miles. 

June  18.  Mosquitos  allowed  us  little  rest.  As  our  animals 
had  had  rather  a  long  march  the  day  before,  camp  was  not 
raised  until  8  A.  M.  For  two  and  a  half  miles  our  course 
was  west  by  north;  we  then  turned  to  the  northward  over 
some  steep  hills,  and,  upon  reaching  their  summit,  obtained  a 


UNITIE 


V 


FROM  THE  HUERFAXO  TO  COOCHATOPE  PASS.  37 

glorious  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Sahwatch.  It  was  quite 
level,  and  from  two  to  five  miles  in  breadth,  gradually  narrow 
ing  to  the  westward ;  the  rise  was  imperceptible,  appearing 
like  a  continuation  of  the  plain  of  San  Luis.  An  abundant 
stream,  the  Sahwatch,  nearly  as  broad  as  the  Huerfano,  but 
deeper,  flows  through  its  centre,  and  empties  into  the  lagoon 
in  San  Luis  valley.  Its  surface  was  clothed  with  nutritious 
grasses,  and  the  hills  and  mountains  by  which  it  is  hemmed  in 
were  covered  with  a  thick  growth  of  firs,  aspens,  and  pines. 

We  proceeded  fourteen  miles  farther  up,  and  encamped  at 
noon  in  a  small  valley  running  into  the  main  one.  There  is  an 
abundance  of  water  in  all  the  lateral  valleys,  as  well  as  grass ; 
in  the  main  one,  I  noticed  a  superior  quality  of  sandstone. 
The  weather  was  clear  and  pleasant,  and  wind  west. 

On  resuming  our  march  in  the  afternoon,  we  ascended  the 
small  valley,  as  it  shortened  the  distance  a  couple  of  miles,  and 
re-entered  that  of  the  Sahwatch.  After  a  ride  of  eight  miles 
we  crossed  Sahwatch  Creek,  its  waters  reaching  to  our  saddles, 
and  encamped,  as  the  sun  was  setting,  at  the  entrance  of  the 
celebrated  COOCHATOPE  PASS. 

Sahwatch  valley  maintains  its  level  character  to  this  point 
and  for  several  miles  above,  where  it  was  shut  from  view  by 
a  curve.  The  entrance  to  the  Carnero  Pass  is  about  a  mile 
above  the  Coochatope,  and  we  regretted  that  we  had  not  time 
to  examine  it. 

A  military  post  placed  in  Sahwatch  valley,  between  these  two 
passes,  would  do  important  service  in  holding  the  Utahs  in  check. 
These  Indians  most  frequently  enter  San  Luis  valley  through 
these  passes,  and  it  is  here  that  a  fort  would  be  best  placed 
to  prevent  their  incursions,  or  to  intercept  their  retreat  with 
booty.  The  mountains  are  clothed  with  timber  from  their  base 
to  their  summit,  the  valley  with  luxuriant  and  nutritious  grasses, 
and  clear,  brawling  mountain  streams  pour  into  them  on  every 
side.  The  distance  to  the  nearest  New  Mexican  settlements  is 
about  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles,  and  the  intervening  coun 
try  is  a  dead  level.  If  undisturbed  by  the  incursions  of  Indians, 
these  valleys  would  soon  be  settled  and  cultivated:  for  it  is 
only  of  late,  since  the  establishment  of  a  military  post  on  Utah 
Creek,  that  settlements  of  any  consequence  have  been  made  on 
Costilla  and  Culebra  creeks. 


38  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 


CHAPTER  III. 

FROM   THE   COOCHATOPE   PASS  TO   GRAND   RIVER — LOSSES   ON 
GRAND  RIVER. 

COOCHATOPE  PASS  is  a  wonderful  gap,  or,  more  properly 
speaking,  a  natural  GATE,  as  its  name  denotes  in  the  Utah  lan 
guage.  On  each  side,  mountains  rise  in  abrupt  and  rocky  pre 
cipices',  the  one  on  the  eastern  side  being  the  highest.  We 
climbed  up  the  one  on  the  left,  which  is  but  a  confused  mass  of 
rocks,  but  in  their  crevices  were  many  beautiful  and  sweet- 
scented  flowers.  The  bottom  of  the  Pass  was  level  and  at  right 
angles  with  Sahwatch  valley  ;  and  we  had  thus  far  reached 
twenty-five  miles  into  the  mountains,  from  San  Luis  valley, 
without  any  apparent  change  of  level.  Singular  as  it  may  ap 
pear,  it  is  nevertheless  a  fact  that,  notwithstanding  the  distance 
that  we  had  penetrated  into  these  mountains,  had  it  not  been 
for  the  course  of  the  waters,  it  would  have  been  difficult  to  have 
determined  whether  we  were  ascending  or  descending. 

A  stream  issues  from  Coochatope  Pass  and  joins  the  Sahwatch; 
it  is  called  Coochumpah  by  the  Utahs,  and  Rio  de  los  Cibolos  by 
the  Mexicans:  both  names  have  the  same  signification — River  of 
buffaloes.  Coochatope  signifies,  in  the  Utah  language,  Buffalo 
gate,  and  the  Mexicans  have  the  same  name  for  it,  El  Puerto  de 
los  Cibolos.  The  pass  and  creek  are  so  called,  from  the  large 
herds  of  these  animals  which  entered  Sahwatch  and  San  Luis 
valleys  through  this  pass,  from  the  Three  Parks  and  Upper 
Arkansas,  before  they  were  destroyed,  or  the  direction  of  their 
migration  changed,  by  the  constant  warfare  carried  on  against 
them  by  Indians  and  New  Mexicans.  A  few  still  remain  in 
the  mountains,  and  are  described  as  very  wild  and  savage.  We 
saw  a  great  number  of  elk-horns  scattered  through  these  val 
leys  ;  and,  from  the  comparatively  fresh  'traces  of  buffaloes,  it 


Of  Tffli 

'BUTE 


St. 


FROM  COOCHATOPE  PASS  TO  GRAND  RIVER.  39 

was  evident  that  many  tad  visited  the  pass  quite  recently. 
The  abundant  pasturage  and  great  shelter  found  here,  even  in 
the  severest  winters,  render  them  a  favorite  resort  at  that  season 
for  game  of  every  description.  Coochatope  Pass  is  travelled  at 
all  seasons,  and  some  of  our  men  had  repeatedly  gone  through 
it  in  the  middle  of  winter  without  meeting  any  serious  obstruc 
tion  from  snow.  Many  Utahs  winter  in  the  valleys  lying  within 
the  Sahwatch  mountains,  where  Mexican  traders  meet  them  to 
barter  for  buckskins  and  buffalo  robes. 

Our  Delaware,  in  commemoration  of  our  arrival  at  this  point, 
killed  a  mountain  sheep,  and  soon  a  dozen  sticks  were  around 
the  fire,  on  which  were  roasting  pieces  of  this  far-famed  meat ; 
but  this  was  a  bad  specimen,  being  both  old  and  tough.  Day's 
travel,  22  miles ;  total  distance,  808  miles. 

We  resumed  our  journey  at  5.30  A.  M.,  and,  having  travelled 
two  miles,  reached  the  forks  of  the  Coochumpah,  taking  the 
west  fork  up  the  valley,  which  here  commenced  to  ascend  at  an 
easy  grade.  The  mountain  sides  were  clothed  with  fine  timber, 
among  which  were  pines,  firs,  and  aspens,  and  the  valley  with 
the  most  luxuriant  grass  and  clover,  this  being  the  first  clover 
we  had  seen.  Around  us  were  scattered  numerous  elk-horns 
and  buffalo  skulls.  Eight  miles  brought  us  to  a  remarkable 
cliff,  about  one  hundred  feet  in  height,  which  beetled  over  the 
trail  on  our  left ;  nine  miles  from  the  "  Gate,"  we  saw  the  last 
water  flowing  east  to  the  Atlantic ;  in  five  minutes  we  were  on 
the  culminating  point  of  the  pass,  and  in  ten  more  crossed  the 
first  stream  flowing  west  to  the  Pacific.  It  was  almost  as  if  we 
were  standing  with  one  foot  in  waters  which  found  their  way  to 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  the  other  in  those  losing  themselves 
in  the  Gulf  of  California. 

In  our  eagerness  to  explore  this  pass  to  its  western  outlet, 
Mr.  Beale  and  I  rode  far  ahead  of  the  remainder  of  the  party. 
The  scenery  was  grand  and  beautiful  beyond  description.  Lofty 
mountains,  their  summits  covered  with  eternal  snows,  lifted  their 
heads  to  the  clouds,  whilst  in  our  immediate  vicinity  were  softly 
rounded  hills  clothed  with  grass,  flowers,  and  rich  meadows, 
through  which  numerous  rills  trickled  to  join  their  waters  to 
Coochatope  Creek. 

At  noon  we  encamped  on  this  stream,  where  it  had  already 
swollen  to  a  considerable  size.  It  is  a  tributary  of  Grand  River, 


40  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

east  fork  of  the  Great  Colorado.  Near  camp  was  a  lofty  and 
steep  hill,  which  I  ascended  to  obtain,  a  better  view  of  the  coun 
try;  one  of  its  principal  features  was  the  Coochatope  Mountain 
to  the  southeast;  high,  round,  and  dark  with  pines. 

We  were  here  compelled,  by  the  necessity  that  we  were  under 
of  selecting  the  shortest  route,  to  go  by  the  trail  which  takes 
the  most  direct  course  to  Grand  Kiver,  though  there  was  a  more 
circuitous  route  to  the  right,  leading  over  a  level  country,  but 
which  would  have  lengthened  the  journey  by  two  days. 

Travelled  ten  miles  in  the  afternoon  over  a  rich  rolling  country, 
well  timbered  and  watered,  and  covered  with  luxuriant  grasses. 
Saw  many  deer,  antelopes,  and  mountain  sheep.  Day's  travel, 
84  miles ;  whole  distance,  842  miles. 

June  20.  The  usual  cry  of  ''catch  up,"  set  the  camp  in 
motion  at  5.45  A.  M.  We  travelled  twenty -two  miles  over 
a  rolling  country,  more  hilly  than  our  route  of  the  previous 
day,  and  encamped  on  a  rivulet  at  noon.  Our  course  was 
south  by  west.  The  hill-sides  and  mountains  were  still  covered 
with  a  thick  growth  of  pines  and  aspens;  wild  flowers  adorned 
the  murmuring  streams,  and  beautified  the  waving  grass. 
Every  few  hundred  yards  we  came  to  one  of  these  purling 
brooks,  the  haunt  of  the  timid  deer,  who  bounded  away  at 
our  approach.  To  the  westward,  the  Eagle  Eange  (La  Sierra 
del  Aguila),  towered  high  above  the  surrounding  mountains,  its 
summits  capped  with  snow,  some  patches  of  which  we  passed 
near  our  trail.  Mr.  Beale  shot  a  species  of  grouse,  larger  than 
a  prairie  hen,  and  caught  one  of  her  young.  At  5.30  P.  M.,  in 
five  miles  from  our  noon  camp,  we  crossed  the  two  forks  of  the 
Jaroso  (Willow  Creek),  a  strong  stream  running  into  Grand 
Eiver,  not  laid  down  on  any  map.  At  7  P.  M.  we  rested  for 
the  night  in  a  valley  watered  by  a  small  shallow  brook,  very 
marshy,  and  swarming  with  mosquitos.  Our  general  course 
this  day  was  southwest.  Numbers  of  deer  and  antelopes  were 
seen;  indeed,  these  sheltered  valleys  seem  expressly  intended 
as  coverts  for  these  gentle  animals. 

About  a  mile  before  reaching  the  Jaroso,  we  crossed  a  valley 
where  a  party  of  Americans  were  cruelly  murdered  by  the 
Utahs,  in  the  spring  of  this  year.  Five  Americans,  and  a 
few  Mexicans,  were  driving  sheep  to  California  by  this  route, 
and,  from  some  cause  which  I  did  not  ascertain,  a  disagree- 


'TJSflVBESIT 


[UJ]     o 


FROM  COOCHATOPE  PASS  TO  GRAND  RIVER.  41 

ment  arose  between  them  and  a  band  of  Utahs,  who  were  still 
here  in  their  winter-quarters.  The  latter  forbade  their  passing 
through  their  country,  and,  placing  a  row  of  elk-horns  across 
the  valley,  threatened  them  with  instant  death  if  they  crossed 
that  line.  The  whites  deeming  this  a  vain  threat,  attempted  to 
force  their  way  through,  were  attacked,  and  all  killed.  The 
elk-horns  were  still  in  the  position  in  which  -the  Indians  had 
placed  them.  Our  guide,  Felipe,  had  an  account  of  this  affair 
from  Utahs  who  had  been  actors  in  the  affray.  At  this  point 
the  trail  from  the  Del  Norte  through  the  Carnero  Pass  joins 
that  through  the  Coochatope.  Traders  from  Abiquiii  come  by 
it  into  these  mountains  to  barter  for  peltries  with  the  Utahs. 
Day's  travel,  34  miles ;  total,  876  miles. 

June  21.  Eaised  camp  at  4.45  A.  M.  and  travelled  five  miles 
west  by  south,  crossing  a  steep  and  rocky  hill  covered  with 
pines,  and  in  five  miles  entered  a  small  valley  watered  by  the 
Eio  cle  la  Laguna  (Lake  Creek).  This  creek  issues  from  a  lake 
near  the  summit  of  the  Sierra  de  la  Plata  (Silver  Range),  about 
twelve  acres  in  area ;  we  found  it  unfordable  on  account  of  its 
swollen  condition  from  melting  snows.  Its  current  was  swift 
and  waters  turbid,  rolling  with  a  loud  roar  over  a  rocky  bed. 
It  both  enters  and  leaves  this  valley  through  narrow  and  rocky 
canons ;  above  the  upper  one  it  flows  through  another  valley 
of  larger  extent  and  of  great  beauty. 

It  became  a  question  with  us,  how  our  packs  were  to  be  trans 
ported  over  the  laguna  without  getting  them  wet  or  lost,  and 
we  at  first  attempted  to  make  a  bridge  by  felling  a  tall  pine 
across  the  stream,  but  it  fell  partly  into  the  water,  and  the  cur 
rent  carried  it  away,  tearing  it  into  pieces.  This  plan  having 
failed,  another  was  adopted,  suggested  by  what  Mr.  Beale  had 
seen  in  his  travels  in  Peru,  and  the  mode  of  crossing  the  plung 
ing  torrents  of  the  Andes,  which  was  entirely  successful. 

Mr.  Rogers  selected  a  point  where  the  stream  was  for  some 
distance  free  from  rocks,  and  succeeded,  after  a  severe  struggle, 
in  swimming  across ;  and  one  of  the  men  mounting  a  stray  In 
dian  pony,  which  we  found  quietly  grazing  in  the  valley,  dashed 
in  after  him,  and  also  effected  a  landing  on  the  opposite  side. 
To  them  a  light  line  was  thrown,  and  having  thus  established  a 
communication  with  the  other  side,  a  larger  rope  was  drawn 
over  by  them,  and  tied  firmly  to  a  rock  near  the  water's  edge. 
4 


42  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

The  end  of  the  rope  on  our  side  was  made  fast  to  the  top  of  a 
pine  tree  ;  a  backstay  preventing  it  from  bending  to  the  weight 
of  the  loads  sent  over.  An  iron  hook  was  now  passed  over  the 
rope,  and  by  means  of  a  sling  our  packs  were  suspended  to  it. 
The  hook  slided  freely  from  the  top  of  the  tree  down  to  the  rock ; 
and  when  the  load  was  taken  off,  we  drew"  the  hook  and  sling 
back  to  our  side  by  a  string  made  fast  to  it.  The  last  load  sent 
over  was  our  wearing  apparel,  and  just  after  parting  with  it,  a 
violent  hailstorm  broke  over  us,  making  us  glad  to  seek  shelter 
from  its  fury  under  rocks  and  trees.  Most  of  the  day  was  thus 
consumed,  and  it  was  not  until  5  P.  M.  that  we  mounted  our 
mules  and  swam  them  across.  The  water  was  icy  cold,  and 
some  of  the  animals  had  a  narrow  escape  from  drowning.  We, 
however,  saddled  up  immediately,  and,  proceeding  four  miles 
from  the  creek,  encamped  for  the  night  in  a  small  hollow.  On 
leaving  the  Rio  de  la  Laguna,  the  road  ascended  a  high  and 
steep  hill.  The  country  travelled  over  this  day  was  abundantly 
grassed,  the  hills  timbered  with  firs,  pines,  and  aspens,  and  the 
streams,  shaded  with  willows.  Day's  travel,  9  miles ;  total,  885 
miles. 

June  22.  "We  started  soon  after  sunrise  and  travelled  west 
by  south  over  steep  hills,  well  timbered  and  covered  with  rich 
grasses.  The  weather  was  clear  and  cold,  and  wind  fresh  from 
the  west.  Crossed  three  streams  swollen  by  melting  snow :  the 
Rio  Hondo  (Deep  River),  the  Savoya,  and  the  Pentacigo  (Leek 
Creek).  At  10  A.  M.,  in  twenty  miles  from  the  Rio  de  la  Laguna, 
we  crossed  the  two  forks  of  the  Nawaquasitch  (Sheep-tail  Creek, 
Utah  language).  The  Mexicans  call  it  Los  Riitos  Quartos 
(Twin  Creeks),  and  the  Cola  del  Carnero  (Sheep-tail  Creek). 
We  forded  it  immediately  above  the  junction  of  the  forks. 
Both  were  much  swollen,  and  we  had  same  difficulty  in  cross 
ing  the  packs,  some  of  which  got  wet.  A  pair  of  saddle-bags 
containing  many  articles  of  value  to  us  were  lost  in  this  crossing. 
All  these  streams  are  mere  rivulets  a  month  or  two  later.  En 
camped  at  noon  on  the  left  bank  of  the  western  fork  of  the 
Nawaquasitch. 

Started  again  an  hour  before  sunset,  and  following  down  the 
left  bank  of  the  Nawaquasitch  until  it  turned  to  the  northward 
through  a  deep  canon,  left  it  and  directed  our  course  to  the 
westward.  The  Nawaquasitch  empties  into  Grand  River  (east 


PI.  XI. 


P.  42. 


FROM  COOCHATOPE  PASS  TO  GRAND  RIVER.        43 

fork  of  the  Colorado),  not  far  beyond  the  outlet  of  this  canon. 
All  the  streams  that  we  passed  this  day  are  tributaries  of  Grand 
River,  and  are  not  laid  down  on  any.  map. 

"We  were  now  approaching  the  western  limits  of  the  Sah- 
watch  Mountains,  and  continued  down  a  rivulet  until  it  gave 
out,  as  it  reached  the  base  of  the  hills.  Upon  reaching  the 
plain  which  extends  from  the  foot  of  the  Sahwatch  Eange  to 
Grand  River,  we  encamped  for  the  night,  having  made  twenty 
miles  since  noon.  There  was  grass  in  small  patches  on  the 
brook  down  which  we  travelled,  and  it  grew  scantier  as  we 
approached  the  plains.  This  stream  dries  up  entirely  in  a 
month  or  six  weeks  from  this  time. 

The  Pareamoot  Mountains  (Elk  Mountains,  Utah  tongue),  a 
range  of  whose  unexplored  beauties  much  had  been  related  to 
us,  loomed  up  darkly  between  us  and  the  setting  sun.  Day's 
march,  38  miles ;  total  distance,  923  miles. 

June  23.  At  an  early  hour  in  the  morning,  Mr.  Beale,  Felipe 
Archilete,  the  Delaware,  and  I,  taking  the  lead,  arrived  at  the 
River  Uncompagre  at  11.10  A.  M.  We  travelled  about  twelve 
miles  parallel  with  this  river,  and  found  it  everywhere  a  broad 
rapid  stream,  entirely  too  rapid  and  swift  to  ford  with  safety  ; 
we  therefore  continued  down  its  right  bank  until  we  reached 
Grand  River. 

We  had  been  prepared  to  find  Grand  River  swollen,  for  its 
tributaries  which  we  had  crossed  were  all  at  their  highest  stage 
of  water ;  but  we  had  not  anticipated  so  mighty  a  stream.  It 
flowed  with  a  loud  and  angry  current,  its  amber-colored  waters 
roaring  sullenly  past,  laden  with  the  wrecks  of  trees  uprooted 
by  their  fury.  Sounds  like  the  booming  of  distant  artillery, 
occasioned  by  the  caving  in  of  its  clayey  and  sandy  banks, 
constantly  smote  our  ears.  This  fork  of  the  Colorado  rises  in 
the  Middle  Park,  and  gathers  all  its  head  waters  in  that  in- 
closure,  and  is  described  by  Fre'mont,  .who  crossed  it  there,  as 
being  a  large  river,  one  hundred  and  thirty  yards  wide  where 
it  breaks  through  its  mountain  rim  and  flows  southwest.  Be 
tween  that  point  and  where  we  approached  it,  numerous  streams 
contribute  their  waters  to  increase  its  volume ;  and  where  we 
now  stood,  anxiously  gazing  at  its  flood,  it  had  spread  to  a 
breadth  of  over  two  hundred  and  fifty  yards. 

As  it  was  evident  that  this  river  was  nowhere  fordable,  it 


44  CENTKAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

was  determined  to  commence  at  once  the  construction  of  a  raft. 
A  place  where  dead  wood  was  found  in  abundance  was  selected 
for  our  encampment,  and  to  reach  it,  it  was  necessary  to  cross 
a  broad  slough,  where  the  mules  sank  to  their  bellies  in  the 
mud ;  the  packs  were  carried  over  on  our  heads.  This  brought 
us  to  an  island  of  loose,  rotten  soil,  covered  with  grease  wood 
and  some  coarse  grass.  "We  had  no  shelter  from  the  sun,  which 
was  intensely  hot,  and  the  mosquitos  and  gadflies  were  per 
fectly  terrific. 

From  this  point,  the  Pareamoot  Mountains  were  in  full  view ; 
they  ranged  from  the  north,  and  terminated  in  an  abrupt 
declivity  on  the  western  side  of  Grand  Eiver,  opposite  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Uncompagre.  They  were  described  to  me  as 
abounding  in  game,  and  well  timbered;  on  their  plateaux,  are 
fine  lakes  filled  with  excellent  fish,  rich  meadows,  abundant 
streams,  every  natural  attraction,  in  fact,  to  induce  settlement. 

Our  guide,  Felipe,  had  spent  three  years  in  them,  trapping 
and  hunting,  and  said  that  there  is  no  richer  country  on  the 
continent.  These  mountains  are  not  laid  down  on  any  map. 
Day's  travel,  28  miles;  total  distance,  951  miles. 

June  24.  Whilst  most  of  the  party  were  busily  occupied  in 
collecting  and  cutting  logs,  constructing  the  raft,  and  transport 
ing  the  packs,  saddles,  &c.,  to  the  point  of  embarkation,  which 
had  to  be  done  in  deep  mud,  and  under  a  scorching  sun,  others 
explored  the  banks  of  the  river,  to  ascertain  whether  a  place 
could  be  found  where  the  cavallade  could  be  crossed  over.  The 
river  was  examined  several  miles  above  our  encampment,  but 
its  banks  on  our  side  were  everywhere  so  marshy  as  to  prevent 
the  approach  of  the  mules  to  the  water's  edge.  At  the  encamp 
ment,  the  ground  was  firmer,  but  we  feared  to  drive  them  into 
the  river  at  this  point,  as  it  was  here  not  only  very  rapid  and 
broad,  but  its  opposite  banks,  as  far  down  as  we  could  see,  were 
marshy  and  covered  with  a  thick  jungle,  from  which  our  mules, 
after  the  exhaustion  of  swimming  across  so  swift  a  current, 
would  have  been  unable  to  extricate  themselves. 

Towards  noon  the  raft  was  completed,  but  we  were  far  from 
feeling  confident  about  crossing  at  this  point.  Archilete,  who 
was  well  acquainted  with  all  the  fords  and  crossing- pi  aces,  stated 
that  perhaps  a  better  point  might  be  found  a  few  miles  below 
the  mouth  of  the  Uncompagre,  which  flowed  into  Grand  Kiver 


FROM  COOCHATOPE  PASS  TO  GRAND  RIVER.  45 

a  short  distance  below  us.  As  it  was  evident  that  it  would  be 
risking  the  entire  loss  of  our  animals  and  packs  to  attempt  to 
cross  them  here,  it  was  determined  to  abandon  the  raft  and 
to  move  camp  farther  down  without  delay.  Everything  was 
again  transported  to  the  main  shore  across  the  slough.  The 
animals  had  much  difficulty  in  crossing  this  place,  even  with 
out  loads ;  with  them,  they  sank  hopelessly  into  the  mud,  from 
which  it  was  very  difficult  to  drag  them  out. 

A  more  dirty,  begrimed,  and  forlorn  looking  party  was  never 
seen ;  we  were  covered  with  mud  to  our  waists ;  wherever  the 
mosquitos  and  gadflies  could  reach  our  skin  they  improved 
the  opportunity  most  industriously,  and  most  of  the  men  were 
covered  with  blisters  and  welts.  All  cheerfully  took  a  share  in 
this  labor,  but  a  volley  of  execrations  was  poured  on  this  quag 
mire,  which  was  appropriately  christened  the  "Slough  of  De 
spond." 

Having  transported  everything  to  dry  land  and  got  the  ani 
mals  through  the  mud,  we  once  more  packed  them  and  resumed 
our  journey  down  the  left  bank  of  Grand  River  until  we  came 
to  the  Uncompagre,  a  short  distance  above  its  mouth. 

The  largest  animals  were  here  selected  to  carry  the  packs 
across,  their  feet  barely  touching  the  bottom,  whilst  the  strength 
of  the  current  drove  the  water  over  their  backs.  Some  of  the 
men,  mounted  on  horses,  led  the  pack  mules,  and  prevented 
their  being  carried  down  the  stream  where  the  water  was  deeper. 
One  mule,  with  a  valuable  pack,  having  gone  in  of  her  own 
accord,  was  carried  away,  lost  her  foothold  and  sank,  the  weight 
of  the  pack  being  too  great  to  allow  her  to  swim;  she  was  swept 
down  the  stream  with  great  rapidity,  rolling  over  helplessly 
until  entirely  lost  to  our  sight  by  a  bend  of  the  river.  Some 
of  the  party  swam  across,  and  one,  benumbed  by  the  coldness 
of  the  water,  and  exhausted  by  struggling  against  the  stream, 
would  have  been  drowned  had  he  not  been  providentially  seized 
just  as  his  strength  had  entirely  failed  him. 

We  encamped  a  few  miles  below  the  Uncompagre,  on  the  left 
bank  of  Grand  River,  upon  a  bluff  from  which  we  had  a  fine 
view  of  its  course,  and  of  the  Pareamoot  Mountains  opposite. 
Our  tormentors,  the  mosquitos,  did  not  fail  to  welcome  us  with 
a  loud  buzz,  whilst  the  drone  of  the  gadfly,  which  might  with 
truth  be  termed  the  furia-infernalis  of  the  plains,  gave  notice 


46  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

that  he  was  about,  thirsting  for  our  blood.  Wherever  he  inserted 
his  proboscis,  the  sensation  was  like  that  of  a  redhot  darning- 
needle  thrust  into  the  flesh,  and  was  followed  by  a  stream  of 
blood.  The  mules  and  horses  suffered  terribly  by  these  flies. 

Our  provisions,  by  losses  in  the  river  and  damage  by  water, 
were  fast  diminishing,  and  it  was  deemed  prudent  at  this  time 
to  put  ourselves  on  a  limited  allowance,  for  it  was  uncertain 
how  long  we  might  be  detained  in  crossing  this  river,  the 
Avonkaria,  and  Upper  Colorado. 

The  pack  lost  with  the  mule  drowned  in  the  Uncompagre 
contained  many  articles  of  importance  to  us,  besides  all  our 
pinole  (parched  cornmeal),  and  some  of  the  men  lost  all  their 
clothing. 

It  was  late  when  we  got  to  camp,  and  after  a  day  of  toil,  ex 
posure,  and  annoyance,  nothing  more  could  be  done  than  to 
select  the  tree  out  of  which  to  make  a  canoe,  and  the  place  to 
launch  it ;  for  all  idea  of  crossing  on  a  raft  was  abandoned.  A 
few  miles  below  the  encampment  the  river  was  shut  in  by  a 
canon,  towards  which  it  dove  with  great  swiftness ;  a  raft  carried 
into  it  would  have  been  torn  to  pieces  in  a  moment,  without 
a  chance  for  the  men  on  it  to  save  their  lives.  Day's  travel,  5 
miles ;  total,  956  miles. 

June  25.  At  early  dawn  most  of  the  party  commenced  work 
ing  on  the  canoe ;  their  only  tools  were  two  dull  axes  and  two 
hatchets.  A  large  cottonwood  tree  was  felled  for  this  purpose, 
and  it  was  hoped  to  have  the  canoe  finished  the  next  day.  The 
wood,  being  green  and  full  of  sap,  was  hard  to  cut,  and  so  heavy 
that  chips  of  it  sank  when  thrown  into  the  water. 

The  river  still  maintained  the  same  level,  and  the  bottom 
land  was  overflowed  and  marshy.  The  high  lands  on  which 
we  were  encamped  were  composed  of  a  loose,  rotten  soil,  pro 
ducing  no  vegetation  except  stunted  sage  bushes.  The  only 
game  we  had  seen  for  two  days  was  an  occasional  sage  rabbit,  so 
called  from  its  flesh  having  a  strong  flavor  of  the  wild  sage 
(artemisia),  on  which  it  feeds.  The  sun  was  very  hot  and  mos- 
quitos  tormenting ;  we  removed  our  camp  to  the  bluff's  in  the 
hope  of  avoiding  them,  but  with  little  success. 

At  this  point,  the  general  course  of  the  river  was  parallel 
with  the  Pareamoot  Mountains,  from  northeast  to  southwest. 


FROM  COOCHATOPE  PASS  TO  GRAND  RIVER.  47 

The  latter  appeared  to  rise  in  terraces,  upon  which  much  timber 
could  be  seen. 

The  work  on  the  canoe  was  continued  steadily  all  day,  though 
some  of  the  party  entertained  grave  doubts  about  crossing  in  it; 
besides,  the  two  rivers  beyond  Grand  Eiver  were  said  to  be 
larger  and  their  current  swifter  than  this.  Archilete  stated  that 
he  had  never  seen  the  river  so  high,  and  that  it  was  owing  to 
the  unusual  quantity  of  snow  which  had  fallen  in  the  mountains 
during  last  winter.  The  wind  rose  at  ten  o'clock  and  blew  with 
violence  until  sunset,  which  relieved  us  in  a  measure  from  the 
torment  of  mosquitos,  but  they  returned  in  fresh  swarms  as 
soon  as  it  lulled. 

June  26.  Opposite  to  our  encampment  was  old  "  Fort  Rou- 
bideau,"  now  abandoned  and  in  ruins.  It  was  formerly  a  trad 
ing  post  belonging  to  the  brothers  Eoubideau,  of  St.  Louis, 
Missouri,  who  carried  on  a  lucrative  trade  with  the  Utahs  for 
peltries. 

Beavers  are  quite  numerous  on  all  these  rivers,  and  have 
greatly  multiplied  of  late  years  since  the  demand  for  their  furs 
has  diminished. 

The  canoe  was  completed  at  noon,  and  a  fire  was  kindled  in 
and  around  it  to  dry  it.  At  4  P.  M.,  the  first  load  went  over 
with  the  Delaware  and  Archilete.  Everything  had  to  be  car 
ried  to  the  water's  edge  through  a  thick  jungle,  knee  deep  in 
mud,  and  under  a  broiling  sun. 

They  reached  the  opposite  side  safely,  although  the  current 
carried  them  some  distance  down  the  stream.  The  canoe  was 
found  to  be  very  heavy,  and  easy  to  upset.  Archilete,  Juan 
Lente,  and  myself  went  with  the  second  load,  reached  the  other 
side,  and,  after  unloading,  dragged  the  canoe  some  distance  up 
stream  to  enable  Archilete,  who  was  to  take  it  back,  to  make  a 
landing  at  the  point  where  the  packs  were  deposited.  Two 
more  of  the  men  crossed  with  the  next  load,  and  Archilete 
returned  in  the  canoe  to  the  left  bank  for  the  night. 

We  were  now  four  persons  on  the  right  bank  of  the  stream, 
with  the  prospect  of  getting  the  rest  of  the  party  and  packs 
across  at  an  early  hour  the  next  day.  We  retired  to  some  dry 
land  about  half  a  mile  from  the  river,  and  carried  to  it  the  few 
things  that  had  been  brought  over.  Just  before  dark,  Dick, 
the  Delaware,  made  his  appearance  in  camp,  dripping  wet,  and 


48  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

reported  that  he  had  just  swam  across  with  some  of  the  mules ; 
that  after  getting  all  into  the  water  most  of  them  had  turned 
back,  while  three  mules  and  one  horse,  having  reached  the  right 
bank,  had  sunk  into  the  mud,  from  which  he  had  been  unable 
to  relieve  them.  We  immediately  went  down  to  the  water's 
edge  with  ropes,  and  with  great  difficulty  got  the  horse  out  of 
his  bed  of  mud,  but  found  it  impossible  to  extricate  the  rnules. 
We  were  compelled  to  leave  the  poor  animals  in  their  forlorn 
situation  until  the  morning,  when  we  hoped  to  get  them  on  dry 
land. 

June  27.  Eose  at  dawn,  and  our  first  business  was  to  get  the 
mules  out  of  their  dangerous  predicament,  by  cutting  bushes 
and  spreading  them  around  the  mired  animals,  thus  rendering 
the  ground  sufficiently  firm  to  support  their  weight. 

At  an  early  hour,  a  signal  was  made  to  us  from  the  other 
side  that  the  canoe  was  about  starting  to  cross.  We  therefore 
went  down  to  the  river  side  to  receive  its  load.  In  a  few 
minutes  she  made  her  appearance,  driving  rapidly  down  the 
stream.  She  was  heavily  loaded,  barely  four  inches  of  her 
gunwale  being  above  the  water's  edge.  Felipe  Archilete,  a 
strong  and  active  fellow,  was  paddling,  whilst  George  Simms 
was  crouched  in  the  bow  of  the  boat.  They  were  unable  to 
reach  the  point  where  previous  landings  had  been  effected,  and 
were  soon  shut  from  our  sight  by  trees  and  tangled  bushes, 
growing  close  to  the  water.  In  a  few  seconds  we  heard  the 
most  alarming  cries  for  help,  and  upon  rushing  to  the  spot 
from  which  these  cries  proceeded,  found  Archilete  and  George 
just  emerging  from  the  water,  nearly  exhausted  with  their 
struggles. 

It  appears  that  upon  approaching  the  bank  and  grasping 
some  small  limbs  of  trees  overhanging  the  water,  the  latter 
broke,  whereupon  one  of  the  men,  becoming  alarmed,  attempted 
to  jump  from  the  boat  to  the  shore,  causing  it  immediately  to 
upset.  They  were  both  thrown  into  the  stream,  which  here 
ran  with  a  strong  current,  and  it  was  with  difficulty  that  they 
reached  the  shore.  I  immediately  called  to  one  of  the  men 
who  was  standing  near  the  horse,  to  gallop  down  the  river's 
edge,  and  by  swimming  him  into  the  middle  of  the  stream  to 
endeavor  to  reach  the  canoe  should  it  make  its  appearance. 
But  it  was  never  seen  again,  nor  did  we  recover  any  of  the 


FROM  COOCHATOPE  PASS  TO  GRAND  RIVEE.  49 

articles  with  which  it  was  loaded.  We  lost  by  this  accident 
seven  rifles,  nearly  all  our  ammunition,  pistols,  saddles,  corn- 
meal,  coffee,  sugar,  blankets,  &c. 

With  broken  axes  and  dull  hatchets  it  would  have  been 
difficult  if  not  impossible  to  have  constructed  another  canoe ; 
and,  besides,  the  men  were  too  much  discouraged  by  this  loss 
to  undertake  the  labor  with  the  spirit  necessary  to  carry  it 
through. 

Our  party  was  equally  divided;  we  were  seven  on  each  side. 
Some  of  the  gentlemen  on  the  left  bank  were  now  anxious  to 
return  to  New  Mexico  to  proceed  to  California  by  some  other 
route ;  but  Mr.  Beale  would  not  listen  for  a  moment  to  such 
proposition.  He  hailed  me  at  eight  o'clock,  and  told  me  that 
as  soon  as  he  could  construct  a  raft,  and  get  the  few  remaining 
things  and  the  animals  over,  we  would  push  on  for  the  Mormon 
settlements  near  the  Yegas  de  Santa  Clara.  Expedition  was 
necessary,  for  we  had  provisions  for  only  four  or  five  days. 

The  Delaware  swam  back  to  Mr.  Beale's  side  to  assist  him 
to  construct  a  raft  or  canoe.  He  was  a  splendid  swimmer,  and 
went  through  the  water  like  an  otter.  They  immediately  com 
menced  the  construction  of  another  canoe,  but  both  axes  being 
broken,  they  soon  had  to  relinquish  the  task  as  hopeless. 

An  inventory  was  made  of  the  provisions,  and  it  was  found 
that  we  had  twenty-five  pounds  of  biscuit,  mostly  in  dust, 
twenty-five  pounds  of  dried  venison,  and  ten  pounds  of  bacon. 
Although  this  was  but  slender  provision  for  fourteen  hungry 
men,  we  had  no  fear  of  starvation,  or  even  of  suffering,  as  long 
as  we  had  the  mules.  I  also  discovered  in  an  old  bag  a  small 
supply  of  powder  and  lead,  and  some  chocolate  and  tobacco. 
A  canister  of  meat-biscuit,  upon  which  we  had  depended  in  case 
of  an  emergency  of  this  sort,  had  unfortunately  gone  down 
with  the  canoe. 

At  an  early  hour  in  the  morning,  we  saw  flying  from  a  tree 
on  the  left  bank,  the  preconcerted  signal  to  "come  down  for  a 
talk."  To  reach  the  river,  we  had  to  wade  for  half  a  mile 
through  a  deep  marsh,  into  which  we  sank  to  our  knees,  and 
the  air  was  thick  with  mosquitos. 

Mr.  Beale  informed  me  that  it  had  been  decided  to  return  to 
Taos  for  supplies,  and  inquired  whether  we  could  get  back  to 
the  left  bank.  As  two  of  the  men  on  my  side  stated  that  they 


50  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

could  not  swim,  it  was  decided  to  make  a  raft,  and,  if  possible, 
to  save  the  articles  we  had  with  us.  Before  this  was  deter 
mined  upon,  however,  Mr.  Beale  ordered  Archilete  to  swim 
over  to  his  side,  which  the  latter  did  at  once,  taking  his  timber 
leg  under  his  urm ;  and  in  the  afternoon  they  made  another 
ineffectual  attempt  to  get  the  animals  across.  There  was  but 
one  point  where  it  was  possible  to  drive  them  into  the  river, 
and  here  they  crowded  in  on  each  other  until  those  underneath 
were  near  drowning.  Mr.  Beale  and  one  of  the  men,  who  were 
riding,  went  into  the  river  to  lead  the  band  across.  The  mules 
fell  on  them  from  the  bank,  which  was  at  this  place  about  three 
feet  high,  and  for  a  moment  they  were  in  imminent  danger  of 
being  crushed.  An  old  horse  alone  struck  boldly  over,  but 
none  of  the  other  animals  followed  his  example.  They  all  got 
out  on  the  same  side,  and  could  not  be  again  driven  into  the 
water. 

Mr.  Beale  now  desired  me  to  make  arrangements  for  return 
ing  to  his  side  of  the  river,  and  while  preparing  the  animals  to 
move  down  to  our  camping  ground,  I  thought  I  heard  a  faint 
shout,  and  at  the  same  time  perceiving  two  dark  objects  moving 
in  the  water,  some  distance  up  the  stream,  I  suspected  that  they 
were  men  from  the  opposite  shore  endeavoring  to  reach  land 
on  our  side.  The  current  was  carrying  them  swiftly  on  towards 
a  high  bank  overhanging  the  stream,  where,  without  help,  to 
have  effected  a  landing  would  have  been  impossible. 

Hastily  seizing  a  rope,  and  calling  to  the  men  to  follow,  I 
ran  to  the  top  of  the  cliff.  In  fact,  they  were  our  two  best 
swimmers,  Dick  and  Felipe,  who  were  scarcely  able  to  keep 
their  hold  until  ropes  could  be  led  down  to  them.  We  drew 
them  up  half  perished,  and  it  required  a  good  fire  and  some 
thing  stimulating  to  restore  circulation  to  their  limbs,  benumbed 
by  the  icy  coldness  of  the  water.  Although  we  had  no  sugar, 
some  coffee,  that  the  Delaware  had  brought,  tied  in  a  handker 
chief  on  his  head,' cheered  the  men,  and  we  passed  a  good  night, 
happy  in  any  rest  after  such  a  day  of  toil. 

June  29.  At  an  early  hour  in  the  morning,  I  commenced 
throwing  into  the  river  everything  that  we  could  possibly  dis 
pense  with,  such  as  clothing,  &c.  I  allowed  each  man  to  select 
sufficient  clothes  from  the  general  stock  to  make  up  one  suit, 
and  it  was  singular  how  soon  their  wants  increased.  Some  of 


FROM  COOCHATOPE  PASS  TO  GRAND  RIVER.  51 

the  Mexicans,  who  heretofore  had  been  satisfied  with  one  shirt 
and  a  pair  of  pants,  now  arrayed  themselves  in  as  many 
breeches,  drawers,  shirts,  and  stockings  as  they  could  force  them 
selves  into.  I  cached,  under  a  thick  bush,  a  few  Indian  goods 
that  we  had  brought  with  us  as  presents. 

The  three  mules  and  two  horses  were  passed  over  to  the  left 
shore  without  much  difficulty  by  pushing  them  into  the  water 
from  a  bank,  whence  the  eddy  immediately  carried  them  into 
the  middle  of  the  stream.  They  got  out  safely  on  the  other 
side,  and  we  at  once  commenced  constructing  the  raft. 

It  was  completed  at  1  P.  M.,  and,  although  it  was  twelve  feet 
in  length  by  eight  in  breadth,  the  weight  of  seven  men,  with 
the  saddles,  arms,  and  provisions  we  had  saved,  caused  it  to 
sink  eighteen  inches  under  water.  It  drifted  rapidly  down 
the  stream,  the  men  whooping  and  yelling,  until  one  struck 
up  the  old  song  of  "  0  Susannah !"  when  the  rest  sang  the 
chorus.  In  this  style,  we  fell  upwards  of  two  miles  down  the 
river,  propelling  ourselves  with  rough  paddles.  Mr.  Beale  and 
others  of  the  party  stood  on  a  hill  on  the  opposite  side  cheering 
and  waving  their  hats.  Having  approached  within  ten  yards 
of  the  left  bank,  our  tritons,  Dick  and  Archilete,  sprang,  into 
the  water,  with  ropes  in  their  teeth,  and  reaching  the  shore 
soon  dragged  the  raft  to  the  bank,  upon  which  the  remainder  of 
the  crew  landed. 


52  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 


CHAPTER   IV. 

JOURNEY  OF  MR.  HEAP  TO  NEW  MEXICO  AND  BACK. 

MR.  BEALE'S  SEPARATE  JOURNAL. 

No  time  was  lost  in  collecting  and  saddling  the  animals,  and 
our  packs  being  reduced  from  eleven  to  three,  they  were  soon 
loaded.  Those  whose  saddles  went  down  with  the  canoe  used 
their  blankets  instead,  and  at  four  P.  M.  we  started  to  return  to 
New  Mexico.  The  defeat  which  we  had  sustained  at  Grand 
River,  and  the  consequent  delay,  caused  some  of  the  party  to 
be  in  low  spirits ;  but  regrets  were  useless ;  we  determined  to 
return  again,  and  so  well  provided  as  to  prevent  a  second 
failure.  We  now  measure  back.  Day's  trave],  8  miles ;  dis 
tance  from  Grand  River,  8  miles. 

June  30.  We  were  in  our  saddles  at  sunrise,  for  the  lightness 
of  our  baggage  occasioned  no  waste  of  time  in  packing.  Those 
of  the  party  who  had  lost  their  blankets  passed  a  cold  night 
under  their  saddle-cloths.  Our  breakfast  consisted  of  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  atole  (cornmeal  mush),  washed  down  with  coffee 
without  sugar ;  and  although  the  repast  was  far  from  palatable, 
we  found  it  wholesome  and  filling,  a  property  which  was  to 
us  of  much  importance.  The  mules  had  been  much  harassed 
by  the  various  attempts  made  to  drive  them  across  the  river, 
and  by  the  mosquitos  and  gadflies ;  yet  they  had  picked  up  both 
flesh  and  spirit,  and  appeared  happy  to  be  treading  once  more  on 
dry  land,  where  they  were  not  exposed  to  the  momentary  danger 
of  sinking  into  a  mudhole.  We  therefore  travelled  rapidly, 
and  at  3.30  P.  M.  reached  the  Nawaquasitch,  forty-three  miles 
from  our  last  encampment.  It  was  here  that  we  had  previously 
experienced  some  difficulty  in  crossing,  and  where  a  pair  of 
saddle-bags,  containing  many  articles  of  value  to  us,  were  lost. 
The  road  during  the  day  was  the  same  which  we  had  before 


JOURNEY  OF  MR.  HEAP  TO  NEW  MEXICO.  53 

travelled  in  going  to  Grand  River;  the  face  of  the  country  was 
generally  perfectly  level,  offering  to  our  view  but  little  of 
interest  until  we  reached  the  foot-hills  of  the  Sahwatch  range, 
which  we  entered  by  a  narrow  valley,  watered  by  a  small  rivu 
let.  This  we  followed  up  about  twenty  miles,  the  country 
rapidly  improving  in  beauty  and  fertility  as  we  advanced  in 
to  the  mountains.  "We  this  time  crossed  the  Nawaquasitch 
below  the  forks,  and  followed  up  its  right  bank  about  two 
miles.  All  around  us  the  hills  and  mountains  were  covered 
with  rich  verdure ;  beautiful  copses  and  groups  of  trees  diver 
sified  the  scenery,  giving  it  the  appearance  of  a  settled  country, 
only  wanting  dwellings  to  render  it  a  perfect  picture  of  rural 
beauty. 

As  the  grass.at  this  place  was  rich  and  nutritious,  timber 
abundant,  and  fine  streams  irrigated  every  valley,  it  was  selected 
by  Mr.  Beale  for  an  encampment,  where  he  would  await  my 
return  from  New  Mexico  with  fresh  supplies.  Wagner,  Young, 
Dick  Brown  (the  Delaware),  and  Felipe  Archilete,  Jr.,  would 
remain  with  him,  and  I  was  to  take  Felipe  Archilete,  Sr.  (Peg- 
leg,)  as  guide ;  and  was  also  accompanied  by  those  of  the  party 
who  preferred  going  the  longer  route  to  California,  via  Fort 
Laramie  and  Great  Salt  Lake,  to  risking  another  encounter 
with  Grand  River  and  the  unknown  hardships  beyond.  Day's 
travel,  43  miles ;  distance  from  Grand  River,  51  miles. 

July  1.  It  was  not  until  eight  o'clock  that  I  started  from  Mr. 
Beale's  camp  on  the  Nawaquasitch.  He  and  the  men  who 
remained  with  him  had  many  letters  to  write,  which  caused 
some  detention.  We  left  them  with  regret,  for  who  could 
foresee  what  might  happen  to  their  little  party  in  this  lonely 
region,  particularly  as  the  season  was  approaching  when  the 
Indians  would  be  returning  here  from  buffalo-hunting?  In 
addition  to  other  causes  for  anxiety,  we  had  but  a  small  store  of 
provisions,  consisting  of  sour  cornmeal  and  coffee,  which,  when 
divided  between  the  two  parties,  gave  to  each  barely  enough 
for  three  days'  subsistence.  The  Delaware  had  gone  out  hunt 
ing  at  an  early  hour,  and,  as  we  lost  sight  of  the  camp,  we  saw 
him  descending  a  mountain  at  some  distance  with  a  deer  behind 
his  saddle,  which  he  was  carrying  into  Mr.  Beale's  camp. 

The  Rio  de  la  Laguna  (Willow  Creek),  where  we  had  lost 
nearly  a  day  in  crossing  our  packs,  had  fallen  slightly,  and,  as 


54:  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

we  had  now  but  little  that  could  be  injured  by  water,  we  lode 
our  mules  across  without  stopping.  At  6  P.  M.  we  reached 
Eio  Jaroso  (Willow  Creek),  where  the  trail  leading  to  the  Puerto 
del  Carnero  (Mountain-sheep  Pass)  branches  off  to  the  south 
ward  from  that  to  the  Coochatope  Pass. 

This  trail  leads  into  San  Luis  valley  by  a  shorter  route  than 
that  by  the  Coochatope,  and  as  it  would  give  me  the  opportunity 
of  examining  a  region  and  pass  entirely  unknown  except  to 
Indians,  and  Mexicans  trading  with  them,  I  selected  it  for  our 
passage  through  the  Sahwatch  range.  I  consider  it  a  fortunate 
circumstance  that  I  came  to  this  determination,  for  the  pass 
through  which  we  went  proved  to  be,  in  many  respects,  superior 
even  to  the  Coochatope. 

When  we  diverged  to  the  right  to  take  this  trail,  we  com 
menced  ascending  a  long  and  narrow  gorge,  which  led  us  by  an 
ea^y  grade  to  the  summit  of  a  hill,  where  we  encamped  at  7  P.  M. 
near  an  abundant  spring.  It  would  be  needless  repetition 
to  mention  again  the  luxuriance  of  the  grass  which  covered  the 
valleys,  hill-sides,  and  mountains,  for  all  through  the  Sahwatch 
range  the  country  maintains  the  same  rich  and  fertile  character. 

Our  last  meal  was  in  the  morning,  and  consisted  of  a  ball  of 
dough,  which  to  some  bore  a  fancied  resemblance  to  the  old 
Virginia  hoe-cake.  The  soothing  effects  of  this  delicious  morsel 
on  our  stomachs  had  for  many  hours  passed  away  and  been 
forgotten,  so  that  when  we  gathered  around  the  camp-fire  to 
partake  of  a  soup  of  grouse  shot  by  Peg-leg,  nine  men  more 
hungry  it  would  have  been  difficult  to  find.  We  saw  during 
the  day  many  deer  and  antelopes,  but  the  only  rifle  in  the  com 
pany  was  Peg-leg's,  and  it  had  been  so  much  damaged  as  to 
render  it  almost  useless  for  a  long  shot.  Day's  travel,  40  miles ; 
distance  from  Grand  Eiver,  91  miles. 

July  2.  I  passed  a  miserable  night ;,  it  was  cold  and  frosty, 
with  a  piercing  north  wind.  My  saddle-blanket  was  the  only 
covering  I  had,  and  it  was  worn  so -thin  and  threadbare  that  it 
imparted  scarcely  any  warmth.  We  saddled  up  and  started  at 
sunrise,  directing  our  course  nearly  due  east.  The  trail  led 
over  a  mountain  covered  with  thick  pine  forests,  interspersed 
with  rich  meadows,  and  watered  by  numerous  clear  rills,  until 
we  reached  a  portion  of  the  range  where  a  hurricane  or  whirl 
wind  had,  some  years  ago,  uprooted  and  strewed  in  every  direc- 


JOURNEY  OF  MR.  HEAP  TO  NEW  MEXICO.  5o 

tion  a  forest  of  tall  pine  trees.  Through  this  tangled  mass  we 
forced  our  way  with  difficulty,  but  finally  got  through  and  com 
menced  a  gradual  descent  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  range. 

Peg-leg  and  myself  were  riding  at  a  distance  in  advance  of 
the  rest  of  the  party,  when,  upon  crossing  the  summit  of  a  hill, 
we  suddenly -found  ourselves  in  the  midst  of  a  large  flock  of 
tame  goats,  behind  which  was  a  band  of  fifty  mounted  Utahs, 
to  whom  they  belonged.  The  Indians  immediately  gathered 
around  us  and  overwhelmed  us  with  questions ;  but  were  civil, 
and  seemed  light-hearted  and  merry.  Most  of  the  men  had 
good  rifles,  and  'their  horses  were  all  in  fine  condition.  My 
first  thought  upon  meeting  these  Indians  was  the  possibility  of 
replenishing  our  exhausted  larder  with  dried  meat,  and  Peg-leg 
no  sooner  informed  them  that  we  had  been  on  short  commons 
for  several  days  than  they  dismounted,  unpacked  their  animals, 
and  from  their  store  presented  me  with  a  plentiful  supply  of 
dried  buffalo,  deer,  and  antelope  flesh.  Men,  women,  and  chil 
dren  crowded  around  my  mule,  each  handing  me  a  parcel  of 
meat ;  and,  although  it  was  apparent  that  they  expected  nothing 
in  return,  I  gave  them  as  good  a  supply  of  tobacco,  powder,  lead, 
and  percussion  caps  as  I  could  spare ;  but  nothing  delighted  them 
so  much  as  a  box  of  lucifer  matches ;  for,  having  shown  them 
that  by  a  simple  friction  they  might  produce  a  blaze,  their  joy 
was  great,  and  each  member  of  the  band  was  eager  to  perform 
the  feat  of  kindling  a  fire. 

A  garrulous  old  Indian,  who  wore,  by  way  of  distinction,  a 
"  Genin"  hat,  sorely  battered  and  bruised,  and  which  had  become 
the  property  of  this  venerable  Utah  by  one  of  those  reverses 
of  fortune  to  which  hats  are  so  liable,  addressed  us  a  harangue 
accompanied  by  many  gestures.  Peg-leg  translated  his  mean 
ing  to  me,  which  was  to  the  effect,  that  they  had  been  unsuc 
cessful  in  the  buffalo  hunt,  on  which  they  depended  in  a  great 
measure  for  their  subsistence ;  that  they  had  been  many  months 
in  the  buffalo  country,  bul^  the  treacherous  Cheyennes  and 
Arapahoes,  had  driven  them  off,  and  had  killed  some  of  their 
young  men.  He  added,  that  of  dried  antelope  and  deer  meat 
they  ha.d  a  plenty,  and  that  we  were  welcome  to  as  much  as 
we  needed.  This  unexpected  generosity  made  me  regret  that 
it  was  out  of  my  power  to  make  them  a  suitable  return,  and  I 
explained  to  them,  that  our  losses  in  Grand  Kiver  had  deprived 


56  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

us  of  the  means  of  making  them  presents.  He  replied  that  what 
I  had  already  given  was  quite  sufficient. 

Our  party  had  by  this  time  overtaken  us,  but  fearing  that  the 
"  amicable  relations  so  happily  existing"  might  be  disturbed,  I 
desired  them  not  to  stop,  retaining  only  a  pack  animal  to  load 
with  the  meat  which  I  had  obtained. 

With  these  Indians  were  many  squaws  and  children.  The 
former  rode  astride  of  the  packs,  and  the  boys,  some  of  whom 
were  not  more  than  five  years  of  age,  were  mounted  on  spirited 
horses,  which  they  managed  with  much  dexterity  and  grace,  and 
were  armed  with  small  bows  and  arrows,  two  of  which  they  held 
with  the  bow  in  their  left  hand  ready  for  service.  The  chiefs 
invited  us  to  encamp  with  them,  that  they  might  treat  us  with 
goats'  milk  and  have  a  "  talk ;"  but  I  considered  it  most  prudent 
to  separate  from  them  before  any  cause  of  disagreement  should 
arise  to  mar  the  good  understanding  that  existed  between  us ; 
besides,  it  was  too  early  in  the  day  for  us  to  stop.  I  told  them 
that,  in  the  direction  in  which  they  were  going,  they  would 
meet  some  of  our  friends  whom  we  had  left  for  a  short  time, 
and  that  on  our  return  we  would  bring  them  tobacco  and  other 
presents.  They  promised  to  treat  our  friends  well,  and,  after  a 
general  shaking  of  hands,  we  parted  mutually  pleased  with  each 
other. 

We  encamped  at  noon  on  a  fork  of  Sahwatch  Creek,  running 
to  the  eastward  through  a  broad  grassy  valley,  and  after  a  rest 
of  two  hours  resumed  our  journey.  We  had  not  proceeded  far 
when  we  noticed  at  a  short  distance  to  our  right  a  singular-look 
ing  object,  which  appeared  to  be  rolling  rather  than  walking 
over  the  ground.  On  approaching  it,  it  proved  to  be  a  decrepit 
Utah  squaw,  bending  under  the  weight  of  two  packs  of  buffalo 
robes,  one  of  which  she  bore  on  her  shoulders,  whilst  the  other 
was  suspended  in  front.  She  was  much  terrified  when  we 
galloped  towards  her,  and,  although  she  made  a  feeble  attempt 
to  fly,  her  shaking  limbs  bent  under  her,  and  she  sank  to  the 
ground  paralyzed  with  fear.  We,  however,  reassured  her,  and 
got  her  to  explain  to  us  the  cause  of  her  being  in  this  lonely 
region  by  herself,  Archilete  being  interpreter.  She  told  us 
that,  three  moons  previous,  a  party  of  her  people  going  to  hunt 
buffaloes,  had  left  her  and  another  old  woman  in  the  mountains ; 
as  neither  had  horses,  and  they  were  unable  to  keep  up  with 


JOURNEY  OF  MR.  HEAP  TO  NEW  MEXICO.  57 

the  band  on  foot.  She  said  that  they  had  subsisted  on  meat 
left  them  by  their  tribe,  and  ended  by  telling  us  that  she  had 
just  buried  her  companion,  who  had  died  the  previous  night, 
and  that  she  was  now  on  her  way  to  the  summer'  rendezvous  of 
her  people,  ladened  with  her  own  and  her  companion's  packs. 
We  informed  her  that  she  would  probably  overtake  a  band  of 
Utahs  that  night  or  the  next  day,  and  placed  her  on  their  trail. 
She  seemed  glad  to  receive  this  news,  and  still  more  so  when 
we  turned  our  mules'  heads  to  leave  her,  though  we  had  shown 
her  all  possible  kindness — so  hard  is  it  in  them  to  believe  in 
the  sincerity  of  white  people. 

The  trail  led  over  low  hills  and  down  a  succession  of  beauti 
ful  slopes,  running  mostly  in  a  southerly  direction,  until  we 
entered  a  narrow  winding  valley  two  and  a  half  miles  in  length 
by  one  hundred-to  two  hundred  yards  in  breadth.  It  was  shut 
in  on  each  side  by  perpendicular  walls  of  rock  rising  from  fifty 
to  seventy-five  feet  above  the  level  of  the  valley,  whose  surface 
was  flat  and  carpeted  with  tender  grass.  A  stream  of  clear 
water  meandered  through  its  centre,  and  the  grade  was  so  slight 
that  the  stream,  overflowing  its  banks  in  many  places,  moistened 
the  whole  surface. 

As  we  descended  this  beautiful  and  singular  valley,  we  occa 
sionally  passed  others  of  a  similar  character  opening  into  it.  It 
ends  in  Sahwatch  valley,  which  we  entered  about  an  hour  be 
fore  sunset. 

We  had  here  the  choice  of  two  routes :  the  first  was  down 
Sahwatch  valley  to  its  outlet  near  the  head  of  the  valley  of  San 
Luis,  which  would  have  taken  us  over  the  same  ground  that 
we  had  traversed  in  coming  from  Fort  Massachusetts;  the  second 
crossed  Sahwatch  valley  here,  passed  over  a  shorter  and  as  good 
a  route,  and  entered  San  Luis  valley  near  where  the  Garita  leaves 
the  mountains.  We  selected  the  last  route. 

Coochatope  Pass  enters  Sahwatch  Valley  a  mile  below  Car- 
nero  Pass.  Crossing  Sahwatch  valley,  here  half  a  mile  broad, 
and  the  creek  about  ten  yards  in  breadth  and  three  feet  in  depth, 
we  travelled  up  a  narrow  valley  for  a  short  distance  into  the 
hills,  and  encamped  at  dark.  Day's  travel,  47  miles ;  distance 
from  Grand  Eiver,  138  miles. 

July  3.  During  the  early  part  of  the  night  the  mosquitos 
swarmed  around  us,  but  it  soon  became  cold,  which  drove  them 


58  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

away.  "We  were  delayed  some  time  after  sunrise  in  consequence 
of  most  of  the  mules  having  gone  astray ;  they  were  not  re 
covered  until  near  seven  o'clock,  when  we  resumed  our  journey. 
Our  course  was  generally  east,  down  a  succession  of  valleys, 
whose  surface  was  level  and  moist,  with  hills  rising  abruptly  on 
either  side.  "We  saw  a  great  abundance  of  game,  but  killed 
nothing  but  a  grouse.  These  mountains  teem  with  antelope, 
deer,  and  mountain  sheep. 

The  valleys  down  which  we  travelled,  and  which  opened  into 
each  other  with  the  regularity  of  streets,  grew  gradually  broader 
as  we  descended.  We  finally  entered  one  watered  by  Carnero 
Creek,  which  joins  the  Garita  in  San  Luis  valley,  and  at  noon 
encamped  a  short  distance  above  a  gate  or  gap  through  which 
the  stream  passes.  Half  a  mile  below  this  gap  there  is  another, 
and  a  quarter  of  a  mile  farther  a  third ;  the  passage  through 
them  is  level,  whilst  the  trail  around  them  is  steep  and  stony. 
In  the  afternoon,  we  went  through  the  first  gap,  made  a  circuit 
around  the  second,  as  it  was  much  obstructed  with  trees  and 
bushes,  and,  leaving  the  third  on  our  left,  rode  over  some  low 
hills,  and  five  miles  from  camp  crossed  the  Garita.  We  were 
once  more  in  San  Luis  valley,  and  all  before  us  was  a  perfect 
level,  as  far'  as  the  sight  could  reach.  We  encamped  on  the 
Rio  Grande  del  Norte,  as  the  sun  was  setting  behind  the  pass 
in  the  Sierra  de  San  Juan,  at  the  head  of  the  Del  Norte.  This 
pass  was  in  sight  of  us,  and  is  the  one  in  which  Colonel  Fre 
mont  met  with  so  terrible  a  disaster  in  the  winter  of  1848-49, 
so  near  was  he  to  the  object  of  his  search,  the  Coochatope. 

From  the  plains  this  pass  appears  to  be  more  practicable  than 
either  the  Carnero  or  the  Coochatope ;  but  it  can  be  traversed 
only  by  mules,  and  by  them  only  from  the  middle  of  August 
until  the  first  snows  fall,  early  in  December.  In  winter  it  is  im 
passable,  and  in  spring,  and  until  August,  the  Eiver  Del  Norte, 
which  flows  through  part  of  it,  and  is  swollen  with  melting 
snows,  is  the  principal  obstruction.  This  pass  is  known  to  the 
Mexicans  as  the  Puerto  del  Rio  Del  Norte  (the  Pass  of  the  River 
DelNorte),  but  Americans  call  it  Williams's  Pass,  inhonorof  "  Old 
Bill  Williams,"  who  discovered  it,  and  was  Colonel  Fremont's 
guide.  Through  it  is  the  shortest  road  to  Grand  River,  it  being 
one  day  shorter  than  by  the  Carnero,  and  nearly  two  days  shorter 
than  by  the  Coochatope.  The  hills,  for,  as  they  appeared  to  us 


JOURNEY  OF  MR.  HEAP  TO  NEW  MEXICO.         59 

from  the  plains  they  cannot  be  called  mountains,  seem  broken 
and  rugged,  and  appear  to  have  numerous  passages  between 
them,  whilst  the  mountains,  in  which  are  found  the  Carnero  and 
Coochatope  Passes,  exhibit  from  the  plains  'no  point  where  a 
pass  might  be  supposed  to  exist.  Day's  travel,  48  miles ;  dis 
tance  from  Grand  River,  186  miles. 

Fourth  of  July.  We  built  large  fires  during  the  night,  hoping 
to  drive  away  the  mosquitos  by  the  smoke;  but,  the  wind 
being  from  the  river,  as  fast  as  we  got  rid  of  one  swarm  another 
made  its  appearance.  Notwithstanding  our  long  ride  of  the 
preceding  day,  we  got  but  little  sleep,  and  were  glad  to  catch 
up  at  early  dawn.  We  followed  down  the  left  bank  of  the 
Rio  del  Norte,  crossing  numerous  esteros  (sloughs),  until  1  P.  M., 
when  we  encamped  at  the  same  spot  where  we  had  passed  the 
first  night  out  from  Fort  Massachusetts.  We  had  made  forty- 
five  miles  since  morning,  and  had  travelled  so  rapidly  that 
the  pack  animals  did  not  get  into  camp  until  an  hour  later. 

This  being  the  anniversary  of  our  country's  birthday,  and 
not  having  sufficient  food  for  more  than  one  scanty  meal,  we 
had  dispensed  with  breakfast  in  order  to  celebrate  the  occasion 
at  noon  with  all  the  proper  honors.  Some  bitter  corn  meal 
and  a  few  scraps  of  antelope  meat,  which  had  been  so  often 
culled  that  what  remained  consisted  of  the  shreds  of  sinews, 
constituted  our  bill  of  fare.  As  soon  as  the  banquet  was  ended, 
I  started  with  the  intention  of  reaching  the  settlements  on  the 
Culebra,  a  distance  of  about  forty  miles,  that  night.  As  a  dis 
tinct  trail  led  to  these  hamlets,  the  party  could  follow  without 
a  guide,  and  I  therefore  took  Peg-leg  with  me.  They  were  to 
encamp-  that  night  on  Trinchera  Creek,  a  pretty  brook  five 
miles  from  our  noon  camp,  fringed  with  willows,  and  where 
they  would  find  abundant  pasturage. 

After  riding  eight  hours  at  a  steady  pace  over  a  plain,  I  arrived 
at  midnight  at  a  small  village  on  the  Culebra,  inhabited  by 
Mexicans.  The  night  was  warm  and  cairn,  and  from  the  Trin 
chera  clouds  of  mosquitos  filled  the  air.  Both  we  and  our 
mules  were  much  fatigued,  having  travelled  eighty-five  miles 
since  morning,  after  a  ride  of  four  days  through  the  mountains 
at  the  rate  of  from  forty  to  forty-eight  miles  each  day. 

I  was  invited  into  one  of  the  huts,  where  a  couple  of  women 
commenced  at  once  baking  tortillas  (thin  cakes  of  dough  baked 


60  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

on  a  piece  of  sheet-iron)  and  boiling  goats'  milk  with  salt.  A 
sheep  was  killed,  and  a  plentiful  supply  of  tortillas  baked  to  be 
ready  for  our  party  in  the  morning,  and  I  directed  one  of  the 
Mexicans  to  start  at  early  dawn  to  meet  and  guide  them  in. 

My  blanket  was  spread  on  the  floor  near  the  fireplace, 
though  I  was  invited  to  share  a  bed  made  of  hides  stretched  on 
a  rough  frame,  and  filling  two-thirds  of  the  room,  already  occu 
pied  by  three  men,  two  women,  two  girls,  and  four  children, 
all  more  or  less  en  deshabille.  Day's  travel,  85  miles ;  total 
from  Grand  Eiver,  271  miles. 

July  5.  Before  daybreak  the  house  was  invaded  by  lambs, 
kids,  and  pigs,  and  all  farther  attempts  at  sleep  were  vain. 
Glad  to  escape  from  their  noise,  I  got  a  horse  and  rode  to  the 
upper  hamlets  on  the  Culebra.  The  valley  here  spreads  out 
in  a  meadow,  a  perfect  sea  of  verdure,  several  thousand  acres 
in  extent,  on  which  were  numerous  herds  of  cattle  and  horses. 
The  whole  valley  of  the  Culebra  is  at  times  rendered  almost 
uninhabitable  by  the  mosquitos,  which  are  particularly  trou 
blesome  around  the  lower  settlements,  and  the  natives  keep  up 
constant  fires,  in  the  smoke  of  which  both  they  and  their  cattle 
seek  protection  against  the  common  enemy. 

Having  concluded  the  necessary  arrangements  for  leaving  at 
this  pasturage  the  animals  we  had  brought  with  us  from  the 
Nawaquasitch,  I  started  with  Felipe,  on  hired  horses,  for  the 
Costilla,  twenty  miles  distant,  where  we  passed  the  night.  Cos- 
tilla  Creek  has  its  source  in  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  Mountains, 
on  the  east  of  the  valley  of  the  Bio  del  Norte,  into  which  its 
waters  flow.  On  its  banks  are  numerous  farms,  which  are  skil 
fully  irrigated,  but  in  other  respects  are  cultivated  very  care 
lessly  by  the  Mexicans ;  however,  their  crops,  consisting  of 
wheat,  corn,  beans,  and  peas,  gave  promise  of  better  results 
than  those  on  the  Culebra.  These  settlements  are  new;  the 
houses,  although  of  adobes,  are  well  built,  and  the  people  quiet 
and  industrious.  They  are  mostly  peons  (bondsmen)  to  wealthy 
landowners  residing  in  Taos,  and  but  few  own  the  soil  they 
cultivate.  They  enjoy  the  blessing  denied  their  neighbors,  of 
being  entirely  exempt  from  the  annoyance  of  mosquitos,  for 
those  exposed  constantly  to  this  evil  can  alone  form  a  concep 
tion  of  the  misery  it  occasions.  Day's  travel,  20  miles ;  total 
distance,  291  miles. 


JOUKNEY  OF  MR.  HEAP  TO  NEW  MEXICO.  61 

July  6.  To  secure  an  early  start,  and  to  prevent  our  animals 
from  trespassing  upon  the  cultivated  fields,  none  of  which  are 
inclosed,  a  man  was  engaged  to  watch  them  whilst  at  pasture 
during  the  night;  but  my  horse  having  been  allowed  to  escape, 
it  was  not  until  after  sunrise  that  I  could  procure  another. 
A  ride  of  twenty-two  miles  brought  us  to  the  Colorado  (Red 
River),  our  road  taking  us  across  three  small  streams  (Las 
Ladillas),  on  the  borders  of  which  were  extensive  sheep  ranchos. 
The  Colorado  is  formed  by  the  junction  of  two  abundant 
streams,  which  issue  from  deep  canons  in  lofty  and  abruptly 
rising  mountains.  The  valley  of  the  Colorado  is  about  three 
miles  in  length  by  one  in  breadth,  and  the  Colorado  River, 
having  passed  it,  flows  through  a  deep  channel  in  the  plain,  and 
unites  its  waters  to  those  of  the  Del  Norte.  The  valley  presents 
a  beautiful  view,  and,  being  abundantly  irrigated  by  means  of 
acequias  (canals),  every  acre  of  it  is  under  cultivation.  The 
village  of  the  Colorado  consists  of  one  hundred  adobe  houses, 
built  to  form  a  quadrangle,  with  their  doors  and  windows  pre 
senting  upon  the  square  inside. 

Mr.  Charles  Otterby,  a  Missourian,  long  domiciliated  in  New 
Mexico,  invited  me  to  his  house  and  procured  me  a  fresh  horse, 
as  the  one  I  had  ridden  from  the  Costilla  (a  distance  of  twenty- 
two  miles)  in  two  hours  and  a  half,  had  broken  down.  I  left 
Colorado  at  noon,  and,  travelling  twelve  miles  across  a  mount 
ain,  over  a  rough  and  stony  road,  I  reached  the  Rio  IJondo 
(Deep  Creek),  which  is  so  called  from  its  channel  being  sunk 
in  many  places  far  below  the  level  of  the  plain ;  for  the  stream 
itself  is  neither  deep  nor  broad.  I  here  engaged  a  young 
American,  Thomas  Otterby,  to  go  with  us  to  California,  he 
having  a  reputation  almost  equal  to  Kit  Carson's  for  bravery, 
dexterity  with  his  rifle,  and  skill  in  mountain  life.  I  also  pur 
chased  a  mule  to  replace  my  unshod  and  sore-footed  horse,  and 
rode  to  Taos,  nine  miles  beyond,  across  a  level  plain,  arriving 
there  at  3  P.  M. 

Mr.  St.  Vrain,  for  whom  I  had  a  letter,  being  absent  from 
Taos,  I  was  hospitably  received  by  his  lady.  I  immediately 
called  on  Mr.  Leroux,  who  had  a  few  days  previous  returned 
from  Fort  Atkinson  in  improved  health.  Making  known  to 
him  the  accident  which  had  befallen  us  at  Grand  River,  and 
stating  our  wants,  I  obtained,  with  his  assistance,  the  supplies 
we  needed.  Raw  hides  were  procured  and  sewed  together,  to 


62  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

be  used  as  boats  for  crossing  rivers.  Corn  was  parched  to 
make  pinole  (parched  and  pounded  corn  meal,  sweetened),  coffee 
roasted,  &c. 

San  Fernando  de  Taos  is  situated  in  the  centre  of  a  broad 
plain,  watered  by  two  or  three  small  brooks,  whose  waters  are 
entirely  absorbed  in  the  irrigation  of  the  lands  around  the  town. 
It  presents,  both  within  and  without,  a  poor  appearance ;  its 
low  earth-colored  houses,  scattered  irregularly  about,  look  dingy 
and  squalid,  though  within  many  of  them  are  comfortable ;  and 
they  are  all  well  adapted  to  the  climate.  The  town  is  surrounded 
with  uninclosed  fields,  very  fertile  when  irrigated,  and  the  Taos 
wheat,  originally  obtained  from  the  wild  wheat  growing  spon 
taneously  on  the  Santa  Clara  and  the  Eio  de  la  Virgen,  has  ob 
tained  a  wide  reputation.  In  the  vicinity  of  San  Fernando  de 
Taos  are  several  hamlets — the  Pueblo  de  Taos,  inhabited  by 
the  Taos  Indians,  a  quiet  and  inoffensive  race,  and  good  field 
laborers ;  La  Placita  de  Taos,  El  Rancho,  El  Ranchito,  &c.  Six 
miles  to  the  southwest  was  a  United  States  dragoon  camp,  from 
which  the  troops  were  absent,  they  having  marched  to  Abiquiu 
in  consequence  of  troubles  with  the  Navajo  Indians.  Day's 
travel,  43  miles;  total  distance  from  Grand  River  to  Taos,  333 
miles. 

Return  from  Taos  to  Grand  River ;  and  we  now  measure  the  dis 
tance  back  from  Taos. 

July  11.  Having  concluded  my  purchases,  which  delayed 
me  longer  than  had  been  anticipated  (for  everything  had  to  be 
made  or  prepared  for  our  use),  I  sent  off  late  on  the  8th  a  wagon 
containing  the  supplies,  and  two  men  with  the  mules,  to  meet 
me  at  the  Culebra,  where  I  would  overtake  them.  Starting  the 
next  day  I  passed  them  at  Rio  Colorado  on  the  10th,  and  arrived 
at  the  Culebra  a  day  ahead  of  my  party.  From  the  time  of  our 
arrival  in  Taos,  Peg-leg  had  been  surrounded  by  his  friends 
and  boon  companions,  relating  to  them  his  late  exploits  on 
Grand  River,  and  his  frequent  libations  to  Bacchus,  in  wretched 
Taos  brandy,  had  rendered  him  incapable  of  keeping  his  seat  on 
horseback.  I  left  him  practising  the  Apache  warwhoop  in 
the  square  of  Taos,  and  I  did  not  see  him  again  until  the  wagon 
and  men  had  arrived  at  the  Culebra,  and  I  was  prepared  to  de 
part.  He  then  made  his  appearance,  looking  very  sick,  un 
happy,  and  repentant. 


RETURN  TO  GRAND  RIVER.  63 

The  men  I  had  hired  were  Thomas  Otterby,  Jose*  Galliego, 
an  old  mountaineer  who  had  been  to  California  with  Colonel 
Fremont,  and  was  well  recommended  as  guide  and  bull-hide  boat 
builder,  and  Juan  Cordova,  a  Mexican  arriero  (muleteer).  We 
numbered  in  all  five. 

Messrs.  Kiggs  and  Rogers  with  their  party  remained  at  Taos, 
intending  to  pursue  their  journey  to  California  via  Fort  Laramie 
and  Great  Salt  Lake. 

"We  saddled  up  shortly  before  sunset,  and  encamped  nine 
miles  below  on  the  Culebra,  to  get  our  packs  in  order  for  an 
early  start  on  the  morrow.  The  first  day  with  a  train  of  pack 
mules  is  always  a  troublesome  one ;  the  animals  are  new,  the 
men  have  not  learned  their  dispositions  and  qualities,  the  har 
ness  does  not  fit,  and  it  is  necessary  to  make  many  changes, 
which  occasion  delay.  My  day's  ride  was  61  miles,  back  from 
Taos. 

July  12.  Eaised  camp  at  five  and  travelled  until  noon,  when 
we  encamped  on  the  slough  of  the  Del  Norte,  where  we  had 
already  been  three  times.  We  fortunately  had  filled  our  leather 
canteens  at  the  Trinchera,  for  we  found  the  water  here  no  longer 
drinkable.  The  sun  was  intensely  hot,  and  our  old  friends,  the 
mosquitos,  did  not  fail  to  find  us  out.  We  stopped  for  the  night 
on  the  Del  Norte,  eighteen  miles  farther  OD,  where  we  shot 
several  wild  geese,  which  we  found  here  in  great  numbers.  Day's 
travel,  40  miles ;  distance  fr6m  Taos,  101  miles. 

July  13.  Although  I  was  up  many  times  during  the  night, 
looking  after  the  mules,  and  had  them  all  picketed  in  thick 
grass,  three  succeeded  in  drawing  their  picket-pins  and  went  off 
in  the  direction  of  Fort  Massachusetts.  After  a  chase  of  ten 
miles  they  were  brought  back,  and  we  started  at  6  30  A.  M. 
Encamped  on  the  Garita,  where  I  had  only  intended  to  rest  the 
animals  for  a  couple  of  hours ;  but  as  it  commenced  to  rain, 
and  I  feared  that  the  packs  might  get  damaged,  I  concluded  to 
pass  the  night  here,  and  housed  everything  under  the  ox-hides. 
A  party  of.  Mexican  Ciboleros  (buffalo  hunters),  going  to  hunt 
buffalo  on  the  Upper  Arkansas,  encamped  near  us.  Day's  travel, 
41  miles ;  distance  from  Taos,  142. 

July  14.  We  kept  guard  during  the  night,  as  we  saw 
fresh  signs  of  Indians,  and  our  animals  were  inclined  to  stray. 
It  rained  most  of  the  night.  Raised  camp  at  sunrise,  and,  with- 


64  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

out  stopping,  travelled  through  the  Carnero  Pass  to  Sah watch 
valley,  near  which  we  encamped  before  sunset.  Day's  travel, 
49  miles;  distance  from  Taos,  191. 

July  15.  Travelled  steadily  all  day,  with  the  exception  of  a 
short  rest  at  noon,  and  encamped  at  night  on  a  small  rill  run 
ning  into  the  Jaroso  (Willow  Creek).  Day's  travel,  43  miles ; 
from  Taos,  234  miles. 

July  16.  "We  started  at  dawn,  crossed  the  Eio  de  la  Laguna 
without  unpacking,  as  its  waters  had  fallen,  and  at  2  P.  M.  I 
met  Harry  Young,  whom  Mr.  Beale  had  sent  to  guide  us  to  his 
camp  on  the  Savoya  Creek,  to  which  he  had  moved  during  my 
absence.  We  found  Mr.  Beale  and  his  small  party  all  well,  and 
anxiously  expecting  us.  Their  camp  was  surrounded  by  a 
considerable  number  of  Utahs,  some  of  whom  I  recognized  as 
the  same  we  had  met  near  the  Sahwatch,  on  the  2d  of  July. 

Soon  after  we  got  into  camp,  Mr.  Beale  dispatched  Wagner 
and  Galliego  to  Grand  Eiver  with  the  bull-hides,  directing  them 
to  make  a  boat  should  they  fail  in  finding  a  ford ;  and  a  little 
later  we  proceeded  to  the  Nawaquasitch,  so  as  to  make  an  early 
start  on  the  morrow  and  reach  Grand  Eiver  before  night.  Day's 
travel,  42  miles ;  distance  from  Taos,  276  miles. 


MR.  BE  ALE'S  SEPARATE  JOURNAL  DURING  MY  VOYAGE  TO 
TAOS  AND  BACK. 

Mr.  Beale  commences  his  journal  on  the  day  that  we  parted ; 
with  the  reasons  for  sending  back,  and  the  names  of  those  who 
went,  and  of  those  who  remained  with  him. 

July  1,  1853.  Eogers,  Eiggs,  Cosgrove,  George,  Dolan,  Juan, 
and  Gregorio  left  us  to  return  to  'the  settlements,  and  go 
thence  by  Salt  Lake  to  California.  This  was  on  account  of  one 
of  our  party,  whom  I  did  not  think  could  stand  the  farther 
hardships  of  the  journey.  Harris  Heap  and  Felipe  Archilete 
went  in  also  to  show  them  the  nearest  road,  and  to  guide  them 
to  Taos,  and  get  supplies.  Eemained  in  camp  to  await  the 
return  of  Heap,  with  provisions,  &c.  Eemained  with  me  the 
Delaware  (Dick  Brown),  Felipe  Archilete,  Jr.,  Harry  Young, 
and  Wagner.  Nothing  to  eat  in  camp  ;  sent  the  Delaware  out 
to  hunt,  and  we  commenced  a  house.  About  nine,  Dick  re- 


MK.  BEALE'S  JOURNAL.  65 

turned  with  a  buck  ;  finished  the  house  ;  sick  with  dysentery. 
We  find  the  venison  good,  it  being  the  first  meat  or  food  of 
any  kind,  except  cornmeal  and  water,  we  have  had  for  a  week. 

July  2.  Weather  pleasant;  mosquitos  abundant,  but  not 
troublesome;  washed  the  two  dirty  shirts  which  composed  my 
wardrobe.  No  signs  of  Indians,  and  begin  to  hope  we  shall 
not  be  troubled  with  them.  Nevertheless,  keep  the  fright  medi 
cine*  at  hand,  and  the  guns  ready.  Grass  abundant  and  good, 
animals  thriving;  the  Delaware  killed  an  elk;  dried  some  meat; 
still  sick. 

July  3.  Employed  the  day  in  drying  the  meat  killed  yester 
day.  Weather  very  hot ;  but  for  the  sunshine  one  would  sup 
pose  it  to  be  snowing,  the  air  being  filled  with  light  fleeces  like 
snow-flakes  from  the  cottonwood.  The  creek  is  falling,  but 
slowly.  Time  drags  very  heavily;  three  days  gone,  however, 
and  nine  remain ;  twelve  days  being  the  time  allotted  to  go  and 
return  from  Taos. 

July  4.  Celebrated  the  day  by  eating  our  last  two  cups  of 
pinole;  felt  highly  excited  by  it.  Henceforth  we  go  it  on 
tobacco  and  dried  meat.  The  Delaware  killed  a  doe,  tolerably 
fat ;  dried  the  meat ;  still  sick ;  bathed  in  creek ;  found  the 
water  excessively  cold,  but  felt  much  refreshed  and  better  after 
the  bath,  besides  having  killed  an  hour  by  it — a  very  important 
item. 

July  5.  To-day  we  killed  only  a  rabbit.  The  day  has  been 
somewhat  cool,  though  the  evening  is  dry  and  sultry,  and  the 
mosquitos  much  more  troublesome  than  usual.  Took  a  bath, 
which  seems  to  give  me  relief  from  my  malady,  which,  thank 
God,  is  no  worse.  We  hope  that  our  men  have  reached  Taos 
this  evening. 

July  6.  To-day  has  been  cloudy,  with  rain  in  the  mountains 
all  around  us,  though  but  a  few  scattering  drops  have  reached 
the  valley.  We  all  complain  this  evening  of  great  weakness 
and  entire  lack  of  energy,  with  dizziness  in  the  head,  and  do 
not  know  from  what  cause  .  it  proceeds.  The  bath  in  the  creek 
has  not  had  its  usual  invigorating  effect;  mosquitos  very  trou 
blesome;  made  a  little  soup  in  a  tin  box  and  found  it  tolerable. 

*  Our  medicine  chest  had  been  intended  for  a  lady's  use,  and  contained  a  bottle 
of  anodyne  drops,  labelled  with  the  following  directions:  "Three  drops,  to  allay 
palpitations  of  the  heart  occasioned  by  fright." 


66  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

July  7.  For  the  last  two  days  we  have  killed  nothing.  This 
evening  we  had  quite  a  shower  of  rain ;  started  to  take  a  long 
walk,  but  broke  down  very  soon,  being  too  weak  to  go  far.  I 
find  my  sickness  worse  to-day,  but  it  is  the  least  of  iny  anxie 
ties.  Would  to  God  I  had  none  other !  Took  the  usual  even 
ing  bath  in  the  creek,  which  has  slightly  fallen  during  the  day, 
and  the  water  not  quite  so  cold,  which  encourages  me  to  hope 
that  the  supply  of  snow  in  the  mountains  is  nearly  exhausted. 

July  8.  This  morning  our  anxieties  from  Indians  have  com 
menced.  At  ten  o'clock  three  of  them  rode  into  camp,  and 
shortly  afterwards  some  dozen  more. 

July  9.  Yesterday,  after  the  Indians  arrived,  I  gave  them 
what  little  tobacco  we  could  spare  and  some  of  our  small  stock 
of  dried  elk  meat.  After  eating  and  smoking  for  awhile  they 
insisted  on  my  accompanying  them  to  their  camp,  which  was 
some  ten  miles  off.  I  explained  to  them  as  well  as  I  could  who 
I  was. 

Knowing  that  it  is  best  always  to  act  boldly  with  Indians,  as 
if  you  felt  no  fear  whatever,  I  armed  myself  and  started  with 
them.  Our  road  for  a  mile  or  two  led  over  a  barren  plain, 
thickly  covered  with  grease  wood,  but  we  soon  struck  the  base 
of  the  mountain,  where  the  firm  rich  mountain  grass  swept  our 
saddle-girths  as  we  cantered  over  it.  We  crossed  a  consider 
able  mountain  covered  with  timber  and  grass,  and  near  the  sum 
mit  of  which  was  quite  a  cluster"  of  small,  but  very  clear  and 
apparently  deep  lakes.  They  were  not  more  than  an  acre  or 
two  in  size,  and  some  not  even  that,  but  surrounded  by  luxu 
riant  grass,  and  perched  away  up  on  the  mountain,  with  fine 
timber  quite  near  them.  It  was  the  most  beautiful  scenery  in 
the  world ;  it  formed  quite  a  hunter's  paradise,  for  deer  and  elk 
bounded  off  from  us  as  we  approached,  and  then  stood  within 
rifle-shot,  looking  back  in  astonishment.  A  few  hours'  ride 
brought  us  to  the  Indian  camp ;  and  I  wish  here  I  could  describe 
the  beauty  of  the  charming  valley  in  which  they  lived.  It  was 
small,  probably  not  more  than  five  miles  wide  by  fifteen  long, 
but  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  the  boldest  mountains,  covered 
to  their  summits  with  alternate  patches  of  timber  and  grass, 
giving  it  the  appearance  of  having  been  regularly  laid  off  in 
small  farms.  Through  the  centre  a  fine  bold  stream,  probably 
three  feet  deep  by  forty  wide,  watered  the  meadow  land,  and 


MR.  BEALE'S  JOURNAL.  67 

gave  the  last  touch  which  the  valley  required  to  make  it  the 
most  beautiful  I  had  ever  seen.  Hundreds  of  horses  and  goats 
were  feeding  on  the  meadows  and  hill-sides,  and  the  Indian 
lodges,  with  the  women  and  children  standing  in  front  of  them  to 
look  at  the  approaching  stranger,  strongly  reminded  me  of  the 
old  patriarchal  times,  when  flocks  and  herds  made  the  wealth 
and  happiness  of  the  people,  and  a  tent  was  as  good  as  a  palace. 
I  was  conducted  to  the  lodge  of  the  chief,  an  old  and  infirm 
man,  who  welcomed  me  kindly,  and  told  me  his  young  men 
had  told  him  I  had  given  of  my  small  store  to  them,  and  to 
"sit  in  peace." 

I  brought  out  my  pipe,  filled  it,  and  we  smoked  together. 
In  about  fifteen  minutes  a  squaw  brought  in  two  large  wooden 
platters,  containing  some  very  fat  deer  meat  and  some  boiled 
corn,  to  which  I  did  ample  justice.  After  this  followed  a  dish 
which  one  must  have  been  two  weeks  without  bread  to  have 
appreciated  as  I  did.  Never,  at  the  tables  of  the  wealthiest  in 
"Washington,  did  I  find  a  dish  which  appeared  to  me  so  perfectly 
without  a  parallel.  It  was  some  cornmeal  boiled  in  goats'  milk, 
with  a  little  elk  fat.  I  think  I  certainly  ate  near  half  a  peck 
of  this  delicious  atole,  and  then  stopped,  not  because  I  had 
enough,  but  because  I  had  scraped  the  dish  dry  with  my  fingers, 
and  licked  them  as  long  as  the  smallest  particle  remained,  which 
is  "manners"  among  Indians,  and  also  among  Arabs.  Eat  all 
they  give  you,  or  get  somebody  to  do  it  for  you,  is  to  honor 
the  hospitality  you  receive.  To  leave  any  is  a  slight.  I  needed 
not  the  rule  to  make  me  eat  all. 

After  this  we  smoked  again,  and  when  about  to  start  I  found 
a  large  bag  of  dried  meat  and  a  peck  of  corn  put  up  for  me  to 
take  to  my  people. 

Bidding  a  friendly  good-by  to  my  hosts,  and  dividing  among 
them  about  a  pound  of  tobacco  and  two  handkerchiefs,  and 
giving  the  old  chief  the  battered  remains  of  a  small  leaden  pica 
yune  looking-glass,  I  mounted  my  mule  to  return.  The  sun 
was  just  setting  when  I  started,  and  before  reaching  the  sum 
mit  of  the  mountain  it  was  quite  dark.  As  there  was  no  road, 
and  the  creeks  very  dark  in  the  bottoms,  I  had  a  most  toilsome 
time  of  it.  At  one  creek,  which  I  reached  after  very  great  dif 
ficulty  in  getting  through  the  thick  and  almost  impenetrable 
undergrowth,  it  was  so  dark  that  I  could  see  nothing ;  but, 


68  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

trusting  to  luck,  I  jumped  my  mule  off  the  bank  and  brought 
up  in  water  nearly  covering  my  saddle.  Getting  in  was  bad 
enough,  but  coming  out  was  worse ;  for,  finding  the  banks  high 
on  the  other  side,  I  was  obliged  to  follow  down  the  stream  for 
half  a  mile  or  more,  not  knowing  when  I  should  be  swimming, 
until  I  succeeded  with  great  difficulty  in  getting  out  through 
the  tangled  brushwood  on  the  opposite  side.  I  arrived  at  camp 
late  at  night,  and  found  my  men  very  anxiously  awaiting  my 
return,  having  almost  concluded  to  give  me  up,  and  to  think  I 
had  lost  my  "  hair."  A  little  rain. 

July  11.  To-day  I  raised  camp,  and  went  over  to  the  valley 
of  the  Savoya,  near  my  Indian  neighbors.  The  more  I  see  of 
this  valley  the  more  I  am  delighted  with  it.  I  cannot  say  how 
it  may  be  in  winter,  but  at  this  time  it  is  certainly  the  most 
beautiful  valley,  and  the  richest  in  grass,  wood,  soil,  and  water, 
I  have  ever  seen.  The  Delaware  brought  into  camp  last  even 
ing  a  small  deer,  alive,  which  he  had  caught  in  the  mountains. 
It  was  a  beautiful  creature,  but  escaped  in  the  night. 

July  12.  Went  out  this  morning  with  the  Indians  to  hunt. 
They  lent  me  a  fine  horse ;  but  God  forbid  that  I  should  ever 
hunt  with  such  Indians  again !  I  thought  I  had  seen  some 
thing  of  rough  riding  before;  but  all  my  experience  faded 
before  that  of  the  feats  of  to-day.  Some  places  which  we 
ascended  and  descended  it  seemed  to  me  that  even  a  wild-cat 
could  hardly  have  passed  over;  and  yet  their  active  and  tho 
roughly  well-trained  horses  took  them  as  part  of  the  sport,  and 
never  made  a  misstep  or  blunder  during  the  entire  day.  We 
killed  three  antelopes  and  a  young  deer.  Yesterday  an  Indian, 
while  sitting  at  our  camp,  broke  the  mainspring  of  his  rifle 
lock.  His  distress  was  beyond  anything  within  the  power  of 
description.  To  him  it  was  everything.  The  "  corn,  wine,  and 
oil"  of  his  family  depended  on  it,  and  he  sat  for  an  hour  looking 
upon  the  wreck  of  his  fortune  in  perfect  despair.  He  appeared 
so  much  cast  down  by  it  that  at  last  I  went  into  our  lodge  and 
brought  my  rifle,  which  I  gave  him  to  replace  the  broken  one. 
At  first  he  could  not  realize  it,  but  as  the  truth  gradually  broke 
upon  him,  his  joy  became  so  great  that  he  could  scarce  control 
himself;  and  when  he  returned  that  night  he  was  the  happiest 
man  I  have  seen  for  many  a  day. 

These  Indians  are  all  well  armed  and  mounted,  and  the  very 


MR.  BEALE'S  JOURNAL.  69 

best  shots  and  hunters.  Our  revolvers  seem,  however,  to  be  a 
never-failing  source  of  astonishment  to  them,  and  they  are  never 
tired  of  examining  Ithem.  Yesterday,  I  allowed  them  to  fire  two 
of  ours  at  a  mark,  at  thirty  paces.  They  shot  admirably  well, 
putting  all  the  shots  within  a  space  of  the  small  mark  (size  of 
a  half  dollar),  and  hitting  it  several  times.  A  rainy  day. 

July  13.  To-day  has  been  showery,  and  the  evening  still 
cloudy,  and  promising  more  rain  during  the  night.  Our  eyes 
are  now  turned  constantly  to  the  opposite  side  of  the  valley, 
down  which  the  road  winds  by  which  we  expect  our  com 
panions  from  Taos. 

These  days  have  been  the  most  weary  and  anxious  of  my 
whole  life.  Sometimes  I  am  almost  crazy  with  thinking  con 
stantly  on  one  subject,  and  the  probable  disastrous  result  which 
this  delay  may  have  on  my  business  in  California. 

"  Stone  walls  do  not  a  prison  make, 

Nor  iron  bars  a  cage ; 
The  heart  that  is  content  will  take 
These  for  a  hermitage." 

God  knows  I  have  done  all  for  the  best,  and  with  the  best 
intentions.  A  great  many  Indians  came  into  the  valley  this 
evening.  Ten  lodges  in  all,  which,  with  the  fifteen  already 
here,  and  more  on  the  road,  make  up  a  pretty  large  band. 
Dick  killed  an  antelope.  Last  two  nights  have  slept  in  wet 
blankets,  and  expect  the  same  to-night.  Last  night  it  rained 
all  night.  The  Spanish  boy  has  been  quite  ill  for  two  days 
past. 

July  14.  This  morning  I  explored  the  mountain  lying  to 
the  north  of  our  camp,  forming  a  picturesque  portion  of  our 
front  view.  After  ascending  the  mountain  and  reaching  the 
summit,  I  found  it  a  vast  plateau  of  rolling  prairie  land,  covered 
with  the  most  beautiful  grass,  and  heavily  timbered.  At  some 
places  the  growth  of  timber  would  be1  so  dense  as  to  render 
riding  through  it  impossible  without  great  difficulty ;  while  at 
others  it  would  break  into  beautiful  open  glades,  leaving  spaces 
of  a  hundred  acres  or  more  of  open  prairie,  with  groups  of 
trees,  looking  precisely  as  if  some  wealthy  planter  had  amused 
himself  by  planting  them  expressly  to  beautify  his  grounds. 
Springs  were  abundant,  and  small  streams  intersected  the  whole 
plateau.  In  fact,  it  was  an  immense  natural  park,  already 


70  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

stocked  with  deer  and  elk,  and  only  requiring  a  fence  to  make 
it  an  estate  for  a  king.  Directly  opposite,  to  the  south,  is 
another  mountain,  in  every  respect  similar,  and  our  valley, 
more  beautiful  to  me  than  either,  lies  between  them.  In  the 
evening  took  a  long  ride  on  the  trail  to  meet  our  long-expected 
companions.  I  did  not  meet  them,  and  returned  disappointed, 
worried,  and  more  anxious  than  ever. 

July  15.  This  has  been  a  great  day  for  our  Indian  neigh 
bors.  Two  different  bands  of  the  same  tribe  have  met,  and  a 
great  contest  is  going  on  to  prove  which  has  the  best  horses. 
They  have  been  at  it  since  the  morning,  and  many  a  buckskin 
has  changed  hands.  The  horses  are  all  handsome,  and  run 
remarkably  well.  We  have  had  more  than  fifty  races ;  a  sur 
feit  of  them,  if  such  a  thing  as  a  surfeit  of  horseracing  is  pos 
sible. 

July  16.  Here  at  last.  This  morning  I  saddled  my  mule  to 
go  and  hunt  up  our  expected  companions.  I  had  not  gone  far 
before  I  met  about  fifty  Indians,  from  whom  I  could  learn  no 
thing  of  them,  and  was  beginning  to  despair,  when  I  met  a  loose 
mule,  and,  as  I  knew  it  was  not  one  of  the  Indians',  I  concluded 
it  must  belong  to  some  of  our  companions.  Going  on  a  mile 
or  two  farther,  I  met  Felipe,  who  told  me  that  Heap  and  the 
others  were  just  behind.  I  immediately  returned  to  camp  to 
get  dinner  ready  for  them,  so  that  we  might  go  on  this  evening 
to  the  Uncompagre.  Here  terminates  the  most  unpleasant  six 
teen  days  of  my  life ;  but  for  this  beautiful  country,  to  look  at 
and  explore,  I  think  I  should  have  gone  crazy.  The  time 
seemed  endless  to  me,  but  my  zealous  comrades  had  not  unne 
cessarily  lengthened  it,  for  they  had  averaged  45  miles  a  day 
during  the  double  journey  (going  and  coming),  and  that 
through  the  whole  mass  of  mountains  which  lie  between  the 
Upper  Del  Norte  and  the  Grand  River  Fork  of  the  great  Colo 
rado  (Red  River)  of  the  Gulf  of  California. 

Here  ends  Mr.  BEALE'S  separate  journal. 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  MORMON  SETTLEMENTS.  71 


CHAPTEE  V. 

JOURNEY  TO   THE   MORMON  SETTLEMENTS  NEAR  LAS  VEGAS    DE 

SANTA  CLARA. 

July  17.  We  were  now  again  united,  and  freed  from  the 
anxiety  for  each  other's  safety  which  had  been  weighing  on  us 
since  the  day  of  our  separation.  "We  resumed  our  journey  at 
sunrise,  with  the  hope  of  soon  overcoming  all  difficulties.  Al 
though  the  sun  rose  in  a  cloudless  sky,  yet  before  noon  the  rain 
commenced  falling  in  heavy  showers.  Mr.  Beale  and  myself, 
having  much  to  relate  to  each  other,  rode  several  miles  ahead 
of  the  men.  We  descended  to  the  plain  at  the  foot  of  the 
Sahwatch  mountains  by  the  same  trail  over  which  we  had  al 
ready  twice  travelled,  and  which  was  now  familiar  to  us.  On 
approaching  the  Uncompagre,  we  travelled  parallel  with  its 
course  towards  Grand  River,  keeping  on  the  trail  of  the  two 
men  sent  ahead  the  day  before  with  the  hides  to  construct  the 
boat.  At  noon,  we  noticed  two  recumbent  figures  on  a  distant 
butte,  with  horses  standing  near  them ;  when  we  had  approached 
within  a  mile  they  sprang  to  their  saddles  and  galloped  towards 
us  at  full  speed.  They  were  Utah  Indians,  on  a  scout,  and 
evinced  no  fear  of  us,  but,  approaching,  frankly  offered  us  their 
hands.  "We  conversed  with  them  partly  by  signs  and  partly  by 
means  of  the  few  Utah  words  which  we  had  picked  up,  and 
their  scanty  knowledge  of  Spanish,  which  extended  only  to  the 
names  of  a  few  objects  and  animals.  They  told  us  that  large 
numbers  of  their  tribe  were  encamped  a  few  miles  below,  on  the 
Uncompagre,  and,  bidding  them  farewell,  we  went  on  to  meet 
our  train. 

Soon  after  parting  with  them,  we  saw  on  the  hill-sides  and  river 
bottom,  a  vast  number  of  gayly-colored  lodges,  and  numerous 
bands  of  Indians  arriving  from  the  northward.  Upon  approach- 


72  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

ing,  we  were  received  by  a  number  of  the  oldest  men,  who  invited 
us  to  ascend  a  low,  but  steep  hill,  where  most  of  the  chiefs  were 
seated.  From  this  point  we  had  a  view  of  an  animated  and 
interesting  scene.  On  every  side  fresh  bands  of  Indians  were 
pouring  in,  and  the  women  were  kept  busy  in  erecting  their 
lodges  in  the  bottom  near  the  Uncompagre,  as  well  as  on  the 
higher  land  nearer  to  us.  Horses  harnessed  to  lodge  poles,  on 
which  were  packed  their  various  property,  and  in  many  cases 
their  children,  were  arriving,  and  large  bands  of  loose  horses 
and  mules  were  being  driven  to  the  river  side  to  drink  or  to 
pasture.  Squaws  were  going  to  the  stream  for  water,  whilst 
others  were  returning  with  their  osier  jars  filled,  and  poised  on 
their  heads.  Some  of  the  young  men  were  galloping  around  on 
their  high-mettled  horses,  and  others,  stretched  lazily  on  the 
grass,  were  patiently  waiting  until  their  better  halves  had  com 
pleted  the  construction  of  their  lodges,  and  announced  that  the 
evening  meal  was  prepared.  All  the  males,  from  the  old  man 
to  the  stripling  of  four  years,  were  armed  with  bows  and  arrows, 
and  most  of  the  men  had  serviceable  rifles.  We  almost  fancied 
that  we  had  before  us  a  predatory  tribe  of  Scythians  or  Numi- 
dians,  so  similar  are  these  Indians  in  their  dress,  accoutrements, 
and  habits,  to  what  we  have  learned  of  those  people. 

An  old  chief,  who,  we  were  told,  was  one  of  their  great  men, 
addressed  us  a  discourse,  which  very  soon  went  beyond  the 
limits  of  our  knowledge  of  the  Utah  tongue,  but  we  listened  to 
it  with  the  appearance  of  not  only  understanding  the  subject, 
but  also  of  being  highly  interested  with  it.  Our  men,  with 
Felipe  Archilete,  the  guide  and  interpreter,  were  many  miles  in 
the  rear,  and  we  waited  until  their  arrival,  for  Mr.  Beale  wished 
to  take  advantage  of  this  opportunity  to  have  a  conversation 
with  these  chiefs,  two  of  whom  were  the  highest  in  the  nation. 

When  Felipe  came  up,  Mr.  Beale  and  the  capitanos,  as  they 
styled  themselves,  engaged  in  a  long  "  talk/'  Mr.  Beale  told 
them  that  many  Americans  would  be  soon  passing  through  their 
country  on  their  way  to  the  Mormon  settlements  and  California, 
with  wagons  and  herds,  and  that,  if  they  treated  the  whites 
well,  either  by  aiding  them  when  in  difficulty,  guiding  them 
through  the  mountains,  and  across  the  rivers,  or  by  furnishing 
them  with  food  when  they  needed  it,  they  would  always  be 
amply  rewarded.  They  appeared  much  gratified  to  hear  this, 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  MORMON  SETTLEMENTS.  73 

and  by  way,  no  doubt,  of  testing  whether  his  practice  coincided 
with  his  preaching,  intimated  that  they  would  be  well  pleased 
to  receive,  then,  some  of  the  presents  of  which  he  spoke;  re 
marking,  that  as  we  had  passed  through  their  country,  used 
their  pasturage,  lived  among  their  people,  and  had  even  been 
fed  by  them,  it  was  but  proper  that  some  small  return  should 
be  made  for  so  many  favors.  This  was  an  argument  which  Mr. 
Beale  had  not  foreseen ;  but  having  no  presents  to  give  them, 
he  explained  how  it  was ;  that,  having  lost  everything  we  pos 
sessed  in  Grand  Eiver,  it  was  out  of  his  power  to  gratify  them. 
This  explanation  did  not  appear  at  all  satisfactory,  nor  did 
they  seem  altogether  to  credit  him.  They  were  very  covetous 
of  our  rifles,  but  we  could  not,  of  course,  part  with  them.  The 
old  chief  became  taciturn  and  sulky,  and  glanced  towards  us 
occasionally  with  a  malignant. expression. 

We  took  no  notice  of  his  ill-temper,  but  lit  our  pipes  and 
passed  them  around.  In  the  meanwhile,  our  men  had,  in  accord 
ance  with  Mr.  Beale's  directions,  proceeded  to  Grand  Kiver, 
where  they  were  to  seek  for  Wagner  and  Galliego,  and  encamp 
with 'them.  Felipe,  whose  quick  and  restless  eye  was  always 
on  the  watch,  dropped  us  a  hint,  in  a  few  words,  that  it  was 
becoming  unsafe  to  remain  longer  in  the  midst  of  these  savages, 
for  he  had  noticed  symptoms  of  very  unfriendly  feelings. 

We  were  seated  in  a  semicircle  on  the  brow  of  a  steep  hill, 
and  a  large  crowd  had  collected  around  us.  Eising  without 
exhibiting  any  haste,  we  adjusted  our  saddles,  relit  our  pipes, 
and  shaking  hands  with  the  chiefs  who  were  nearest  to  us, 
mounted  and  rode  slowly  down  the  hill,  followed  by  a  large 
number  of  Utahs,  who,  upon  our  rising  to  leave  them,  had 
sprung  to  their  saddles.  The  older  men  remained  seated,  and 
our  escort  consisted  almost  entirely  of  young  warriors.  They 
galloped  around  us  in  every  direction ;  occasionally,  a  squad  of 
four  or  five  would  charge  upon  us  at  full  speed,  reining  up  sud 
denly,  barely  avoiding  riding  over  us  and  our  mules.  They  did 
this  to  try  our  mettle,  but  as  we  took  little  notice  of  them,  and 
affected  perfect  unconcern,  they  finally  desisted  from  their  dan 
gerous  sport.  At  one  time,  the  conduct  of  a  young  chief,  the 
son  of  El  Capitan  Grande,  was  near  occasioning  serious  conse 
quences.  He  charged  upon  Felipe  with  a  savage  yell,  every 
feature  apparently  distorted  with  rage ;  his  horse  struck  Felipe's 
6 


74  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

mule,  and  very  nearly  threw  them  both  to  the  ground.  The 
Indian  then  seizing  Felipe's  rifle,  endeavored  to  wrench  it  from 
his  hands,  but  the  latter  held  firmly  to  his  gun,  telling  us  at  the 
same  time  not  to  interfere.  We  and  the  Indians  formed  a  cir 
cle  around  them,  as  they  sat  in  their  saddles,  each  holding  on  to 
the  gun,  whose  muzzle  was  pointed  full  at  the  Indian's  breast. 
He  uttered  many  imprecations,  and  urged  his  followers  to  lend 
him  their  assistance.  They  looked  at  us  inquiringly,  and  we 
cocked  our  rifles — the  hint  was  sufficient — they  declined  inter 
fering.  For  some  minutes  the  Utah  and  Felipe  remained  mo 
tionless,  glaring  at  each  other  like  two  game-cocks,  each  watch 
ing  with  flashing  eyes  for  an  opportunity  to  assail  his  rival. 
Seeing  that  to  trifle  longer  would  be  folly,  Felipe,  who  held  the 
butt-end  of  the  rifle,  deliberately  placed  his  thumb  on  the  ham 
mer,  and  raising  it  slowly,  gave  warning  to  the  young  chief,  by 
two  ominous  clicks,  that  his  life  was  in  danger.  For  a  moment 
longer,  the  Utah  eyed  Felipe,  and  then,  with  an  indescribable 
grunt,  pushed  the  rifle  from  him,  and  lashing  his  horse  furiously, 
rode  away  from  us  at  full  speed.  Felipe  gave  us  a  sly  wink,  and 
uttered  the  highly  original  ejaculation — "Carajo!" 

We  crossed  the  Uncompagre  about  twelve  miles  above  our 
former  fording-place.  The  rain,  which  had  been  falling  at 
intervals  all  day,  now  descended  in  torrents,  and  the  river  soon 
became  so  deep  and  rapid,  that  our  return  was  entirely  cut  off. 
Our  object  in  crossing  it  was  to  ascertain  the  condition  of  Grand 
Eiver,  where  we  had  previously  been  balked  by  the  loss  of  the 
canoe.  We  travelled  until  nine  o'clock,  when  we  met  some 
Utahs  sent  by  Wagner  to  inform  us  that  he  had  found  a  ford, 
which  would  dispense  with  the  necessity  of  building  a  boat. 
The  rain  not  abating,  and  having  ridden  since  morning  upwards 
of  fifty  miles,  we  concluded  to  accept  the  hospitality  of  our 
Indian  friends,  who  offered  us  a  lodge  in  an  encampment,  which 
we  soon  after  reached.  It  consisted  of  six  large  deer-skin 
lodges  on  the  brow  of  a  hill  overlooking  in  front  the  angry 
current  of  the  Uncompagre,  whilst  on  the  left  was  Grand  Eiver, 
about  a  mile  distant.  From  this  point  we  saw  numerous  fires 
dotting  the  opposite  shores  of  the  Uncompagre,  amongst  which 
shone  a  larger  one  lit  by  our  men,  for  the  purpose  of  guiding 
us  through  the  storm  to  their  encampment.  Before  we  entered 
the  lodge,  a  number  of  squaws  and  children  issued  from  it,  to 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  MORMON  SETTLEMENTS.  75 

make  room  for  us,  and  scattered  themselves  among  the  other 
lodges ;  the  men  remained,  squatting  closely  together  on  one 
side,  while  Mr.  Beale,  myself,  and  Felipe,  spreading  our  saddle- 
blankets  near  the  fire,  threw  ourselves,  in  utter  weariness,  upon 
them.  At  this  moment  we  would  willingly  have  sold  our  birth 
rights  for  a  mess  of  pottage,  for  we  had  tasted  nothing  since 
dawn. 

We  soon  lit  and  passed  around  the  friendly  pipe,  and  made 
ourselves  as  comfortable  and  as  much  "at  home"  as  circum 
stances  would  permit.  The  nickering  blaze  of  the  fire  fell  on 
the  wrinkled  visages  of  two  or  three  old  squaws,  who  had 
quietly  crept  near  the  door  for  a  view  of  the  "  Mericanos," 
while  outside,  and  peering  over  each  other's  shoulders,  were 
a  group  of  girls,  whose  bright  eyes  and  laughing  faces  dis 
closing  their  pearly  teeth,  formed  an  agreeable  contrast  with 
the  serious  and  even  surly  countenances  of  the  men,  and  hag 
gard  appearance  of  the  older  squaws.  Knowing  that  our  men 
would  feel  anxious  on  account  of  our  prolonged  absence  (for 
having  left  us  in  the  midst  of  the  Indian  encampment  they  had 
good  reason  to  fear  for  our  safety),  Mr.  Beale  inquired  whether 
there  was  any  one  who  would  undertake  to  carry  a  message  to 
them  across  the  river.  A  handsome  young  Indian  volunteered 
to  go,  and  Mr.  Beale  liberally  promised  to  reward  him  on  his 
return  with  a  plug  of  tobacco,  which  he  exhibited,  to  prove 
that  he  was  in  earnest.  This  generosity  was  duly  appreciated; 
and  it  is  probable  that,  with  the  offer  of  a  few  more  plugs,  the 
whole  band  might  have  been  sent  over  as  attaches  to  the  em 
bassy.  Mr.  Beale  wrote  to  Young,  to  send  us  coffee,  sugar, 
and  biscuit ;  and  our  messenger,  having  stripped  to  the  buff, 
rolled  the  paper  up,  and  carefully  thrust  it  through  the  lobe 
of  his  ear,  which  was  pierced  with  large  holes.  Mounting  a 
powerful  horse,  he  disappeared  in  the  darkness,  towards  the 
Uncompagre. 

Much  sooner  than  we  had  anticipated,  he  returned — his  horse 
as  well  as  himself — dripping  with  moisture,  and  brought,  safely 
tied  on  the  top  of  his  head,  the  articles  Mr.  Beale  had  written 
for.  He  also  carried  in  his  ear  a  note  from  Young,  stating  that 
the  Indians  were  quite  peaceable  and  well-disposed,  and  had 
indicated  a  ford  near  which  our  men  were  encamped. 

All  uneasiness,  on  their  account,  being  set  at  rest,  we  gave 


76  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

ourselves  up  entirely  to  the  enjoyment  of  our  novel  situation. 
Knowing  that  nothing,  not  excepting  music,  "  hath  such  charms 
to  soothe  the  savage  breast"  as  a  good  feed,  Felipe  asked  for  a 
large  kettle,  which  was  soon  produced,  and  suspended  from  three 
sticks,  over  the  fire.  This  he  filled  with  coffee,  well  sweetened, 
and  threw  in  also  the  biscuit.  Affairs  were  now  assuming  an 
aspect  which  our  hosts  appeared  to  consider  of  intense  interest. 
Their  eyes  did  not  wander  for  a  moment  from  the  magic  kettle ; 
and  their  half-opened  mouths  actually  watered  as  the  delicious 
aroma  of  the  coffee  filled  the  lodge.  Felipe  now  called  for 
our  cups,  which  we  carried  suspended  to  our  saddles,  and 
for  every  other  utensil  in  the  camp,  and  served  the  delicious 
beverage  around.  The  redskins  sipped  it  scalding  hot,  accom 
panying  each  sip  with  a  deep  ugh  !  signifying  their  great  enjoy 
ment  ;  and,  having  drained  their  cups  to  the  dregs,  they  rubbed 
their  stomachs,  in  token  of  its  having  done  them  infinite  good. 
Fatigued  as  we  were  we  soon  stretched  ourselves  out  to  sleep, 
and  though  the  wind  howled  around  us,  and  the  rain  fell. all 
night,  we  slept  soundly  and  comfortably,  the  fire  in  the  centre 
keeping  the  lodge  quite  warm,  whilst  an  aperture  in  the  top 
allowed  the  smoke  to  escape  freely.  Days  travel,  50  miles; 
distance  from  Taos,  326  miles. 

July  18.  "We  saddled  up  at  early  dawn,  swam  our  mules 
across  the  Uncompagre,  and  rejoined  our  men.  They  informed 
us  that  Juan  Cordova  had  deserted  the  day  before,  and  returned 
to  Mr.  Beale's  encampment  on  the  Savoya  in  company  with  the 
two  Indians  we  had  met  in  the  morning,  and  who  were  going 
that  way. 

We  found  camp  filled  with  Indians,  who,  however,  behaved 
in  a  friendly  manner,  and  had  even  supplied  the  men  with  a 
bucket-full  of  goat's  milk.  No  time  was  lost  in  preparing  to 
ford  Grand  Eiver,  and  some  Indians  went  ahead  to  show  us 
the  way.  On  reaching  the  stream  we  found  that  it  had  fallen 
about  six  feet,  and  under  the  guidance  of  the  Indians  had  no 
difficulty  in  getting  over.  The  water  reached  nearly  to  the 
mules'  backs,  but  the  packs  had  been  secured  so  high  as  to  pre 
vent  their  getting  wet. 

The  Indians  followed  us  across  in  large  numbers,  and  at  times 
tried  our  patience  to  the  utmost.  They  numbered  about  two 
hundred  and  fifty  warriors,  and  were  all  mounted  on  fine  horses, 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  MORMON  SETTLEMENTS.  77 

and  well  armed  with  bows  and  arrows,  having  laid  aside  their 
rifles,  which  Felipe  considered  a  sign  that  their  designs  were 
unfriendly,  as  they  never  carry  them  when  they  intend  to  fight 
on  horseback.  Their  appearance,  as  they  whirled  around  us  at. 
full  speed,  clothed  in  bright  colors,  and  occasionally  charging 
upon  us  with  a  loud  yell,  made  a  striking  contrast  with  that  of 
our  party,  mounted  as  we  were  upon  mules,  in  the  half-naked  con 
dition  in  which  we  had  crossed  the  river  (for  it  was  dangerous  to 
stop  for  a  moment  to  dress).  They  enjoyed  many  laughs  at  our 
expense,  taunting  us,  and  comparing  us,  from  our  bearded  ap 
pearance,  to  goats,  and  calling  us  beggarly  cowards  and  women. 
Most  of  these  compliments  were  lost  to  us  at  the  time,  but 
Felipe  afterwards  explained  them.  The  old  chief,  the  same  who 
had  given  us  such  a  surly  reception  on  the  preceding  day,  and 
his  son,  who  had  made  a  trial  of  strength  with  Felipe  for  his 
rifle,  soon  joined  us,  and  behaved  with  much  insolence,  demand 
ing  presents  in  an  imperious  manner,  and  even  endeavored  to 
wrench  our  guns  from  our  hands,  threatening  to  "wipe  us  out" 
if  we  refused  to  comply  with  their  wishes.  They  frequently 
harangued  the  young  men,  and  abused  us  violently  for  tra 
versing  their  country,  using  their  grass  and  timber  without 
making  them  any  acknowledgment  for  the  obligation.  The 
latter  listened  in  silence,  but  most  of  them  remained  calm  and 
unmoved,  and  evinced  no  disposition  to  molest  us.  The  chiefs 
then  changed  their  tactics,  and  endeavored  to  provoke  us  to 
commence  hostilities.  Mr.  Beale  calmly  explained  to  them  that, 
having  lost  everything  in  the  river,  he  was  unable  to  make  them 
such  presents  as  he  would  have  desired,  and  added  (addressing 
himself  to  the  chiefs)  that  he  clearly  saw  that  they  were  evil- 
hearted  men ;  for,  after  treating  us  as  brothers  and  friends,  they 
were  now  endeavoring  to  make  bad  blood  between  us  and  their 
people.  He  ended  by  telling  them  that  we  had  a  few  articles  which 
he  would  have  distributed  to  them,  had  they  not  behaved  in  so 
unfriendly  a  manner ;  but  that  now,  the  only  terms  upon  which 
they  could  obtain  them  was  by  giving  a  horse  in  exchange. 
Mr.  Beale's  motive  for  not  giving  them  presents  was  our  in 
ability  to  satisfy  the  whole  party,  for  all  we  possessed  was  a 
piece  of  cloth,  a  calico  shirt,  and  some  brass  wire,  and  these 
articles,  valueless  as  they  were,  if  given  to  a  few,  would  have 
excited  the  jealousy  and  ill-will  of  the  less  fortunate,  and  thus 


78 ,  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

made  them  our  enemies.  The  Indians,  however,  declined  giving 
a  horse  in  exchange  for  what  we  offered,  saying  that  it  would 
not  be  a  fair  bargain.  Mr.  Beale  then  said:  "If  you  want  to 
trade,  we  will  trade;  if  you  want  to  fight,  we  will  fight;"  re 
questing  those  who  were  not  inclined  to  hostilities,  to  stand 
aside,  as  we  had  no  wish  to  injure  our  friends. 

The  chiefs,  finding  themselves  in  the  minority  as  regarded 
fighting,  finally  consented  to  give  us  a  mare  for  our  goods ;  and 
after  the  trade  was  made  we  parted,  much  relieved  at  getting 
rid  of  such  ugly  customers. 

The  Utahs  had  been  in  company  with  us  for  several  hours, 
and  had  often  separated  our  party.  During  all  this  time  our 
rifles  were  held  ready  for  use,  not  knowing  at  what  moment 
the  conflict  might  commence.  Had  we  come  to  blows,  there  is 
no  doubt  that  we  should  have  been  instantly  overwhelmed.  The 
Delaware  had  kept  constantly  aloof  from  the  party,  never  allow 
ing  an  Indian  to  get  behind  him ;  and  although  he  silently,  but 
sullenly,  resisted  the  attempts  that  were  made  to  snatch  his 
rifle  from  his  grasp,  he  never  for  a  moment  removed  his  eyes 
from  the  old  chief,  but  glared  at  him  with  a  ferocity  so  pecu 
liar,  that  it  was  evident  that  feelings  even  stronger  than  any 
that  could  arise  from  his  present  proceedings,  prompted  the 
Delaware's  ire  against  the  rascally  Utah.  Dick  subsequently 
told  us  that,  when  he  was  a  boy,  he  had  fallen  into  the  hands  of 
this  same  old  chief,  who  had  *been  urgent  to  put  him  to  death. 
Dick  had  nursed  his  revenge  with  an  Indian's  constancy,  and, 
upon  the  first  blow,  intended  to  send  a  rifle  ball  through  his 
skull. 

Several  times  Felipe  warned  us  to  be  on  our  guard,  as  the 
attack  was  about  to  commence,  and  Mr.  Beale  directed  all  to 
dismount  upon  the  first  unequivocal  act  of  hostility,  to  stand 
each  man  behind  his  mule,  and  to  take  deliberate  aim  before 
firing. 

Travelling  down  Grand  Eiver,  at  some  distance  from  its 
right  bank,  we  came  to  where  it  flowed  through  a  canon. 
The  ground  on  either  side  of  the  river  was  much  broken  by 
ravines.  The  country,  about  a  mile  from  the  river,  was  bar 
ren  and  level,  producing  nothing  but  wild  sage  and  prickly 
pear.  After  a  harassing  day  we  encamped  on  a  rapid,  clear 
and  cool  brook,  with  good  pasturage  on  its  banks,  called  in  the 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  MORMON  SETTLEMENTS.  79 

Utah  language,  the  Cerenoquinti;  it  issues  from  the  Pareamoot 
Mountains  and  flows  into  Grand  River.  Day's  travel,  25 
miles ;  whole  distance  from  Westport,  computed  from  June  23, 
976  miles. 

July  19.  Resumed  our  journey  at  5.30  A.  M.,  and  travelling 
twelve  miles  southwest  over  a  level  and  barren  country,  en 
camped  on  the  Avonkarea  (Blue  River,  Utah  tongue).  Our 
encampment  was  on  a  high  rocky  bluff  overhanging  the  stream, 
and  offering  a  beautiful  view  of  its  course.  The  scenery  was 
grand  beyond  description;  the  fantastic  shapes  of  the  mount 
ains  to  the  northward  resembled  in  some  places  interminable 
ranges  of  fortifications,  battlements,  and  towers,  and  in  others 
immense  Gothic  cathedrals ;  the  whole  was  bathed  in  the  beau 
tiful  colors  thrown  over  the  sky  and  mountains,  and  reflected 
in  the  stream  by  a  glowing  sunset. 

This  river  was  broader  and  more  rapid  than  Grand  River, 
and,  as  we  had  anticipated,  entirely  too  deep  to  ford.  At  the 
point  where  we  encamped,  it  was  about  three  hundred  yards  in 
breadth,  and  it  had  evidently  recently  been  much  wider.  It 
frothed  and  foamed  as  it  rushed  impetuously  past  the  rocks, 
bearing  on  its  bosom  huge  trees,  which  rolled  and  writhed  like 
drowning  giants.  The  men  immediately  commenced  making  a 
frame  for  the  boat,  the  qualities  of  which  we  were  about  to  test. 
The  keel  and  longitudinal  ribs  were  made  with  saplings,  and 
the  transverse  ribs  with  small  limbs  of  willow,  which  bent  easily 
to  any  shape  required.  The  hides — two  of  which  had  been 
closely  sewed  together — were  softened  by  soaking  in  the  river, 
spread  under  the  frame ;  and  the  edges,  perforated  with  holes, 
were  brought  up  its  sides  and  tightly  laced  to  them  with 
thongs.  The  boat  was  finished  by  sunset,  and,  although  neither 
as  light  nor  as  graceful  as  a  birch-bark  canoe,  it  promised  to 
carry  us  and  our  packs  over  safely. 

Soon  after  arriving  at  the  Avonkarea,  we  were  hailed  from 
the  opposite  shore  by  a  Mexican,  who  informed  us  that  he  and 
his  party  had  been  waiting  twenty  days  for  the  waters  to  fall, 
being  unable  to  cross  over. 

He  stated  that  they  had  left  the  Mormon  settlements  at  the 
Vegas  de  Santa  Clara  on  the  20th  of  June,  and  had  lost  two  of 
their  men  by  drowning  in  Green  River.  Mr.  Beale  promised 
to  assist  them  over. — 12  miles ;  988  miles. 


80  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

July  20.  Commenced  crossing  at  an  early  hour.  The  boat 
answered  admirably  ;  it  was  buoyant,  easily  managed,  and  safe. 
Before  sunset  most  of  the  train  had  crossed,  and  the  Delaware 
had  succeeded  in  swimming  the  mules  over,  by  following  in 
their  wake,  and  heading  off  those  that  tried  to  turn  back.  It 
took  us  longer  than  we  had  anticipated,  to  get  our  effects  across, 
as  it  was  necessary  at  each  trip  to  tow  the  boat  some  distance 
up  the  right  bank,  in  order  to  make  our  encampment  on  the 
left,  without  drifting  below  it.  The  current  was  very  rapid, 
and  the  work  of  towing  the  boat  up  through  the  bushes  which 
overhung  the  stream,  very  laborious.  Some  of  the  Mexicans 
and  a  few  of  their  packs  were  carried  in  safety  to  the  left 
bank.  It  rained  heavily  during  the  afternoon,  and  we  passed 
a  wet  night  under  our  blankets.  The  camp  was  crowded  with 
Indians,  who  were  anxious  to  trade,  but  were  not  troublesome. 
As  some  of  them  passed  *the  night  with  us,  we  allowed  our  ani 
mals  to  run  with  theirs. 

Henry  Young  was  at  one  time  in  a  very  precarious  position, 
from  which  he  was  relieved  with  difficulty.  One  of  the  mules 
had  stubbornly  resisted  every  effort  to  get  her  over,  and  had 
finally  made  a  landing  under  a  high  precipice  on  the  left  shore, 
from  which  it  was  impossible  to  dislodge  her,  without  going  into 
the  water  and  swimming  to  the  spot.  This  was  attempted  by 
Young,  and  as  the  current  here  swept  down  with  tremendous 
velocity,  he  was  on  the  point  of  drowning,  when  fortunately  he 
seized  a  rock,  upon  which  he  landed.  It  was  now  dark,  the 
rain  falling  fast,  and  to  have  passed  the  night  in  this  situation 
was  certain  destruction,  for  he  was  under  a  precipice,  and  in 
front  of  him  roared  the  Avonkarea.  No  one  knew  that  he  had 
gone  into  the  water,  and  we  were  not  aware  of  his  distress 
until  he  had  attracted  our  attention  by  his  shouts,  and  a  flash 
of  lightning  revealed  him  to  us.  The  boat  was  got  down  to 
him  after  more  than  an  hour's  work,  and  he  was  finally  brought 
into  camp  nearly  frozen. 

July  21.  The  remainder  of  the  packs  and  men  crossed  in  the 
morning,  and  the  day  was  consumed  in  sending  the  rest  of  the 
Mexicans  and  their  luggage  to  the  opposite  side.  They  were 
also  assisted  in  crossing  over  their  animals.  These  men  reported 
that  they  had  been  badly  treated  by  the  Mormons  at  the  Vegas 
de  Santa  Clara,  and  that  two  of  their  number  had  been  put  in 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  MORMON  SETTLEMENTS.  81 

jail.  They  warned  us  to  be  on  our  guard,  when  we  arrived  in 
Utah  Territory,  as  they  (the  Mormons)  had  threatened  to  shoot 
or  imprison  all  Americans  passing  through  their  country. 
Notwithstanding  their  plausible  story,  the  Mexicans  only 
impressed  us  with  the  belief  that,  having  misbehaved,  they  had 
received  the  chastisement  they  deserved,  for  it  was  well  known 
to  us  that  the  Mormons  strictly  prohibited  the  practice  of  the 
natives  of  New  Mexico  of  bartering  firearms  and  ammunition 
with  the  Indians  for  their  children. 

We  wrote  many  letters  by  these  men,  which  they  promised 
to  deliver  to  Mr.  Leroux,  in  Taos. 

The  hides  were  removed  from  the  frame  of  the  boat  and  re 
served  for  future  use,  and  having  got  our  animals  together  we 
resumed  our  march  at  7  P.  M. 

The  Avonkarea  joins  Grand  Kiver  five  or  six  miles  below 
where  we  crossed  it.  We  travelled  down  the  last-mentioned 
stream,  our  course  being  southwest,  and  encamped  at  11  P.  M. 
at  Camp  L'Amoureux,  so  called  after  a  French  trapper  who 
trapped  here  for  several  years,  until  drowned  in  Grand  Eiver. 
Our  road  lay  over  a  level  plain,  whose  loose,  rotten  soil  was 
covered  with  a  thick  growth  of  artemisia,  cactus,  and  grease- 
wood.  At  this  camp,  both  grass  and  timber  were  abundant, 
but  the  mosquitos  allowed  no  rest  to  man  or  beast.  A  plain 
extends  on  this  side  of  the  river  about  twelve  miles  in  breadth, 
bounded  on  the  northwest  by  a  range  of  steep,  bald,  and  deeply 
furrowed  mountains.  Day's  travel,  16  miles;  total  distance 
from  Westport,  1,004  mile's. 

July  22.  We  were  in  the  saddle  at  7.30  A.  M.,  and  in  ten 
miles  reached  the  Eio  Salado  (Salt  Creek),  and  following  down 
its  bed,  which  only  contained  water  in  holes,  encamped  on  Grand 
River,  near  where  it  (Salt  Creek)  discharges  itself.  This  creek 
is  a  running  stream  in  winter,  and  its  water  is  then  drinkable; 
but  it  ceases  to  run  in  summer,  and  its  water,  which  is  then 
only  found  in  hollows,  is  very  brackish.  Wherever  the  main 
river  (Grand  River)  can  be  reached,  which  is  practicable  at 
some  points,  there  are  good  camping  places,  where  grass  and 
timber  are  abundant. 

The  face  of  the  country,  as  on  the  previous  day,  was  an  arid 
plain,  with  scanty  vegetation.  To  the  northwest,  at  a  distance 


82  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

of  eight  miles,  was  a  range  of  steep  bluffs,  and  Grand  Eiver, 
on  our  left,  was  shut  from  view  by  naked  hills. 

A  few  Indians  visited  camp,  and  partook  of  our  dinner. 
We  obtained  from  them  some  beautiful  buckskins,  which  the 
Utahs  have  a  skilful  mode  of  preparing.  They  told  us  that 
the  river  abounded  with  large  fish,  and  one  of  the  men  imme 
diately  manufactured  a  hook  with  a  horseshoe  nail.  We  had 
satisfactory  evidence  of  the  weight  of  the  fish,  for  the  first  that 
bit  carried  away  "hook  and  line,  bob  and  sinker." 

Travelled  twenty  miles  in  the  afternoon,  and  encamped  again 
late  at  night  on  Grand  Eiver.  To  avoid  the  mosquitos,  some 
slept  on  the  top  of  a  lofty  rock,  and  were  tolerably  free  from 
their  annoyance ;  but  those  Avho  made  their  beds  below  were 
allowed  no  rest.  From  the  Eio  Salado,  our  route  lay  over  arid 
hills  of  sand  and  sandstone.  30  miles;  1,034  miles. 

July  23.  Eaised  camp  at  sunrise,  travelling  over  rough  and 
barren  hills  near  the  river,  and  at  10  A.  M.  rested  for  the  last 
time  on  its  banks.  The  scenery  here  was  picturesque.  On 
our  side,  the  stream  was  overhung  by  high  cliffs  of  dazzlingly 
white  sandstone,  against  which  it  dashed  with  violence;  whilst 
on  the  left  shore  were  extensive  meadows,  ornamented  with 
numerous  clusters  of  trees.  All  hands  bathed  in  the  river,  and 
found  its  waters  cool  and  refreshing.  The  heat  of  the  weather 
was  intense,  until  a  distant  thunderstorm  refreshed  the  air. 

Eesuming  our  journey,  we  left  Grand  Eiver,  and,  directing 
our  course  west-southwest  across  a  sandy  and  parched  plain 
towards  Green  Eiver,  stopped  for  the  night  at  10  P.  M.,  at  a 
place  where  there  was  scanty  grass  and  no  water ;  but  we  had 
brought  a  supply  for  our  own  use,  and  had  watered  the  mules 
before  starting.  Day's  travel,  36  miles ;  total  distance,  1,070 
miles. 

July  24.  The  men  passed  a  refreshing  night,  perfectly  free 
from  the  mosquitos,  wjaich  had  been  a  source  of  such  serious 
annoyance  since  leaving  the  settlements  in  New  Mexico.  Started 
at  5  A.  M.,  and,  travelling  thirty -five  miles,  encamped  on  Green 
Eiver  Fork  of  the  Great  Colorado  at  1  P.  M. 

The  country  we  traversed  was  stony  and  broken  by  dry 
watercourses.  On  every  side,  and  principally  to  the  north  and 
northeast,  extended  ranges  of  rugged  hills,  bare  of  vegetation,  and 
seamed  with  ravines.  On  their  summits  were  rocks  of  fantastic 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  MORMON  SETTLEMENTS.        83 

shapes,  resembling  pyramids,  obelisks,  churches,  and  towers,  and 
having  all  the  appearance  of  a  vast  city  in  the  distance.  The 
only  vegetation  was  a  scanty  growth  of  stunted  wild  sage  and 
cacti,  except  at  a  point  known  as  the  Hole  in  the  Eock,  where 
there  were  willows  and  other  plants  denoting  the  vicinity  of 
water,  but  we  found  none  on  our  route.  The  sun  was  exceed 
ingly  hot,  and  we,  as  well  as  our  mules,  were  glad  to  reach  the 
river,  where  we  could  relieve  our  thirst.  Saw  four  antelopes  near 
Green  River,  to  which  the  Delaware  immediately  gave  chase, 
but  was  unable  to  get  within  gunshot. 

Green  River  was  broader  and  deeper  than  either  Grand  River 
or  the  Avonkarea,  but  its  current  was  neither  so  rapid  nor  so 
turbulent.  The  scenery  on  its  banks  was  grand  and  solemn, 
and  we  had  an  excellent  view  of  it  from  our  camping  place  on 
a  high  bluff. 

The  frame  of  the  boat  was  commenced  at  once.  Some  Indians 
made  their  appearance  on  the  opposite  shore,  and  one  of  them 
swam  over  to  our  side,  assisted  by  a  log,  on  wrhich  he  occasion 
ally  rested.  Day's  travel,  35  miles;  total  distance,  1,105  miles. 

July  25.  At  an  early  hour  the  men  resumed  their  work  on 
the  boat ;  the  hides  were  found  to  be  rotten  and  full  of  holes, 
as  we  had  neglected  to  dry  them  after  crossing  the  Avon 
karea;  but  by  dint  of  patching  with  pieces  of  India-rubber 
blankets  and  sheepskins,  and  smearing  the  seams  with  a  mix 
ture  of  tallow,  flour,  soap,  and  pulverized  charcoal,  the  boat 
was  made  sufficiently  tight,  that,  with  constant  bailing,  all  the 
men  and  packs  were  carried  over  in  four  trips.  I  went  with 
the  first  load  to  guard  our  packs,  as  Indians  were  on  the  left 
bank  watching  our  proceedings. 

Mr.  Beale  made  great  exertions  to  hurry  the  train  over  this 
river.  He  went  across  at  every  trip,  jumping  into  the  river 
where  it  was  shallow,  and  taking  the  boat  in  tow  until  he  was 
beyond  his  depth.  He  was  thus  for  many  hours  in  the  water, 
encouraging  the  men  by  his  example.  "We  had  now  an  excellent 
party  ;  the  men  were  daring  and  adroit ;  they  exhibited  no  fear 
when  we  were  so  hard  pressed  by  the  Utahs,  and  when  exposure 
or  toil  was  required  of  them,  not  one  flinched  from  his  duty. 
Some  appeared  almost  to  rejoice  whenever  there  was  a  difficulty 
to  overcome,  and  we  never  heard  the  Delaware's  wild  shout  and 
laugh  without  suspecting  that  either  he  or  his  mule  had  got 


84  CENTRAL  EOUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

into  some  predicament,  either  by  sliding  down  a  bank,  or  get 
ting  into  the  mire,  or  entangled  in  a  jungle.  He  never  asked 
for  help,  and  rejected  all  assistance,  relying  on  'himself  in  every 
emergency. 

At  sunset,  the  crossing  of  Green  Kiver  was  effected,  and  we 
gladly  gave  the  boat  to  the  Indians,  who  ripped  it  to  pieces  to 
make  moccasson  soles  of  the  hides.  We  proceeded  a  mile  up 
the  stream,  and  encamped  in  the  midst  of  luxuriant  grass.  A 
band  of  twenty-five  mounted  Utahs  accompanied  us  and  passed 
the  night  in  our  camp ;  we  gave  them  to  eat,  and  they  seemed 
quite  friendly.  Their  accounts  of  the  Mormons  corroborated 
what  the  Indians  and  Mexicans  on  the  Avonkarea  had  told  us. 
Day's  travel,  1  mile ;  whole  distance,  1,106  miles. 

July  26.  In  the  morning  the  Utahs,  who,  the  night  before, 
were  apparently  so  friendly,  showed  a  disposition  to  be  insolent, 
but  our  party  keeping  close  together,  they  did  not  dare  to  com 
mence  hostilities ;  most  of  them  had  rifles,  and  all  had  bows  and 
quivers  full  of  arrows  with  obsidian  heads.  They  accompanied 
us  for  some  miles,  impdrtuning  us  for  presents,  and  finally 
left  us  in  a  bad  humor.  Had  we  been  able  to  conciliate  these 
Indians  with  a  few  gifts,  such  as  blankets,  beads,  tobacco,  brass 
wire,  &c.,  we  should  not  have  had  the  least  trouble  with  them. 
We  parted  on  friendly  terms  with  those  on  the  Savoy  a,  where  Mr. 
Beale  had  remained  during  my  journey  to  Taos ;  for,  on  leaving, 
he  distributed  a  variety  of  small  articles  which  I  had  brought 
for  them,  and  with  which  they  were  entirely  satisfied. 

Started  at  five,  and  at  noon  encamped  at  Green  Eiver  Spring. 
The  water  here  was  cool,  but  not  abundant ;  it  is,  however,  con 
stant,  and  good  grass  and  some  cottonwoods  and  willows  are 
found  around  it. 

The  character  of  the  country  and  soil  continued  unchanged, 
rocky  ridges  worn  into  fantastic  shapes,  and  soil  loose,  dry,  and 
barren.  The  trail  led  through  rocky  ravines  of  red  sandstone. 
Day's  travel,  18  miles ;  whole  distance,  1,124  miles. 

July  27.  We  were  on  the  road  before  daylight,  and  tra 
velled  thirty-eight  miles  west  by  south  ;  crossing  the  east  fork 
of  San  Eafael  Creek,  we  halted  at  8  P.  M.  on  the  west  fork,  a  few 
miles  above  their  junction,  and  twenty  from  where  this  creek 
flows  into  Green  Kiver.  At  our  encampment,  the  creek  was 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  MORMON  SETTLEMENTS.  85 

seven  yards  in  breadth  and  eighteen  inches  deep.     The  water 
was  cool  and  sweet,  and  good  pasturage  on  its  banks. 

The  trail  led  us  over  low  hills  much  cut  up  by  dry  and  rocky 
ravines,  and  on  our  right  were  sandstone  bluffs.  Vegetation 
was  scanty,  principally  dwarf  cedars,  artemisia,  and  cactus,  and 
occasionally  patches  of  grama  grass.  We  found  no  water  from 
camp  to  camp.  A  longer  trail  than  the  one  we  took  leads 
through  a  level  valley.  About  twelve  miles  from  Green  Eiver 
Spring,  the  country  opened  to  the  north  and  northwest,  show 
ing  a  level  plain  to  the  foot  of  the  Wahsateh  Mountains.  These 
mountains  extended  north,  west,  and  southwest  as  far  as  our 
sight  could  reach,  and  some  of  the  loftiest  were  capped  with 
snow.  The  heat  of  the  sun  was  tempered  by  a  pleasant  westerly 
breeze.  Day's  travel,  38  miles ;  whole  distance,  1,164. 

July  28.  Travelled  twenty  miles  south  by  west,  and  halted 
at  noon  on  the  Bio  del  Moro  (Castle  Creek,  so  called  on  ac 
count  of  buttes  near  it  resembling  fortifications).  In  ten  miles 
from  the  San  Eafael,  crossed  a  broad  brook  of  clear  and  cool 
water,  running  into  Green  Eiver.  Between  the  streams  vege 
tation  was  scanty  and  stunted,  and  the  soil  clayey,  dry,  and 
barren ;  to  the  westward  were  steep  hills,  beyond  which  could 
be  seen  the  green  and  wooded  slopes  of  the  Wahsatch  range. 

Noticed  fresh  tracks  of  animals  going  north,  evidently  those 
of  cattle  stolen  by  Indians,  from  the  Mormons. 

Our  noon  camp  was  near  the  point  where  Moro  Creek  issued 
from  the  mountains.  The  clayey  soil  of  which  they  are  com 
posed  had  been  washed  by  rains,  into  the  strangest  shapes.  At 
times,  long  lines  of  battlements  presented  themselves;  at  others, 
immense  Gothic  cathedrals,  with  all  their  quaint  pinnacles  and 
turrets,  which  reminded  us  of  the  ruined  castles  and  churches 
that  we  had  seen  in  our  travels  in  the  old  world.  The  different 
colors  of  the  clay  added  to  the  singularity  of  the  scenery,  and 
strengthened  the  resemblance. 

In  the  afternoon,  we  continued  to  travel  parallel  to  the  hills 
in  a  south  by  west  course,  and  in  seven  miles  came  to  a  gap, 
giving  issue  to  a  small  stream,  which  we  ascended  three  miles. 
The  aridity  of  the  country  continued  unchanged ;  the  loose 
ness  of  the  soil,  constantly  kept  shifting  by  rains,  prevented 
much  vegetation  except  in  bottom  lands;  there  was  a  scanty 
growth  of  some  of  the  hardier  plants,  such  as  dwarf  cedars.  In 


86  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

the  valley  in  which  we  encamped  was  good  grass,  which  in 
creased  in  quantity  and  improved  in  quality  as  we  ascended  it. 
Day's  travel,  30  miles ;  whole  distance,  1,192  miles. 

July  29.  Resumed  our  journey  before  sunrise,  and  went  up 
the  creek  seven  miles.  This  gorge,  for  it  is  almost  too  narrow 
to  be  called  a  valley,  affords  a  good  pass  through  the  range. 
It  narrows  from  one  hundred  yards  to  thirty-five  feet,  with 
lofty  and  perpendicular  rocks  on  each  side,  and  the  ascent  is 
very  gradual.  The  hills  were  clothed,  from  their  summits 
to  their  base,  with  a  thick  growth  of  pine  trees,  cedars,  and 
aspens,  and  the  brook  was  swarming  with  trout.  The  divide  is 
broad,  level,  and  smooth,  and  the  descent  on  the  western  side 
easy  ;  the  trail,  as  is  generally  the  case  with  Indian  paths,  went 
over  a  steep  hill,  which  shortened  the  distance ;  but  this  ascent 
could  easily  have  been  avoided  by  going  a  couple  of  miles  round 
to  the  left.  Since  leaving  Green  River,  the  duties  of  guide  had 
devolved  on  Jose  GTalliego,.  but  we  found  him  far  from  efficient, 
and  greatly  missed  the  accurate  knowledge  that  Felipe  had  of 
the  country  before  we  reached  that  river. 

Our  noon  halt  was  on  the  Rio  Salado  (Salt  Creek),  a  name 
which  it  obtains  from  flowing  past  some  mines  of  rock-salt,  for 
its  waters  are  pure  and  sweet.  We  were  now  in  the  Great 
Salt  Lake  Basin,  Salt  Creek  flowing  to  the  northward  and  dis 
charging  into  Sevier  (Nicollet)  River,  \vhich  empties  into  a  lake 
of  the  same  name  in  the  Basin. 

We  here  found  an  abundance  of  good  grass,  which  was  not 
unwelcome  to  the  mules,  the  rapid  rate  at  which  we  travelled 
requiring  that  they  should  feed  well  to  retain  their  strength. 
Thus  far,  none  of  our  animals  had  shown  signs  of  failing,  and 
most  of  them  were  in  excellent  travelling  condition.  Since 
leaving  the  Savoya,  we  had  met  but  little  game ;  an  antelope, 
shot  by  the  Delaware  on  the  banks  of  the  Avonkarea,  and  four 
to  which  he  had  given  chase  near  Green  River,  being  all  that 
we  had  seen. 

On  the  summit  of  the  divide,  and  before  descending  into  the 
valley  of  the  Rio  Salado,  I  took  a  careful  survey  of  the  sur 
rounding  country,  which  offered  many  new  and  interesting 
features. 

The  Wahsatch  Mountains  are  composed  of  several  parallel 
ranges  running  from  the  north  to  the  south,  with  fine  well- 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  MORMON  SETTLEMENTS.  87 

watered  valleys  between  them.  They  are  short,  and  between 
the  valleys  are  numerous  passes.  We  here  discovered  our 
guide's  error  in  leaving  an  excellent  pass  through  the  range, 
on  the  summit  of  which  we  were  standing,  to  follow  a  mountain 
trail,  which  soon  gave  out,  and  left  us  to  struggle  through  the 
brush,  greatly  fatiguing  our  pack  animals. 

We  encamped  for  the  night,  on  the  Salado,  in  a  broad  and 
level  valley.  Throughout  the  mountains  the  pasturage  reminded 
us  of  that  in  the  Sahwatch  range,  although  in  the  valley  it  was 
less  luxuriant. 

Soon  after  guard  was  set  for  the  night,  an  attempt  was  made 
by  Indians  to  stampede  our  animals.  The  watchfulness  of  the 
man  on  guard,  however,  defeated  their  purpose ;  he  fired,  but 
missed  them.  One  of  the  mules  was  slightly  wounded  by  an 
arrow.  Day's  travel,  30  miles ;  whole  distance  1,222  miles. 

July  30.  Directing  our  course  west,  we  entered  a  chasm  or 
canon  in  the  hills  six  miles  in  length,  and  quite  level  and  smooth. 
This  brought  us  again  to  the  Salado,  at  the  point  where  it  flows 
past  the  mines  of  rock-salt,  from  which  it  derives  its  name.  The 
course  of  the  creek  is  here  southwest,  and  it  joins  Sevier  or 
Nicollet  River  about  three  miles  below  the  mines.  At  the 
mines,  we  found  a  wagon-trail  leading  to  Mormon  settlements, 
which  our  guide  informed  us  were  about  a  day's  journey  dis 
tant  to  the  northward.  We  followed  this  trail  to  Sevier  River, 
where  it  turned  to  the  northward ;  and  crossing  the  Salado  near 
its  mouth,  travelled  south  up  the  left  bank  of  the  Sevier,  on 
which  we  encamped  at  noon. 

The  course  of  the  river  in  this  valley  is  from  south  to  north ; 
it  is  about  twelve  yards  in  breadth  and  from  three  to  four  feet 
in  depth.  Sevier  valley  is  perfectly  level,  and  three  miles  in 
breadth  ;  for  many  miles  above  and  below  the  junction  of  the 
Salado  it  is  arid  and  destitute  of  timber ;  there  was  good  grass, 
however,  in  the  river  bottom.  The  mountains  which  inclose  the 
valley  east  and  west  are  apparently  sterile,  but  their  recesses 
are  well  timbered ;  for  during  the  morning's  march  we  crossed 
two  small  streams  flowing  from  the  westward,  near  which  were 
vast  quantities  of  drift-wood. 

The  weather  was  exceedingly  hot,  without  a  breath  of  air ; 
and  the  dust  raised  by  the  animals,  in  travelling  over  the  loose 
and  dry  soil,  hung  over  us  in  clouds. 


CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

In  the  afternoon,  continued  up  the  valley ;  four  miles  brought 
us  to  beautiful  meadows,  which  extend  for  several  miles  along 
Sevier  Eiver,  and  are  caused  by  the  overflow  of  several  small 
streams  from  the  westward.  The  grass  was  of  the  most  luxu 
riant  description,  and  reached  above  our  saddle-girths.  As 
cended  the  river  twelve  miles  farther,  and  encamped  after  dark 
on  its  banks.  Day's  travel,  37  miles ;  whole  distance,  1,259 
miles. 

July  31.  We  saddled  up  before  sunrise,  and  travelling  north, 
reached  at  eight  o'clock  the  head  of  the  valley  where  Sevier 
Eiver  from  the  southwest,  and  Beaver  Creek  from  the  west,  both 
issuing  from  deep  canons,  join  their  waters.  We  here  came  to 
a  stand,  it  being  evident  that  farther  progress  in  the  direction 
we  were  travelling  was  impossible.  The  guide  insisted  that  our 
road  was  through  one  of  the  canons,  but  before  proceeding  it 
was  deemed  advisable  to  make'  a  reconnoissance,  when  both 
were  found  equally  impracticable,  even  for  men  on  foot.  After 
losing  two  hours  in  an  ineffectual  search,  we  turned  our  mules' 
heads  to  the  northward,  and,  travelling  three  miles  down  the 
left  bank  of  Sevier  Eiver,  we  crossed  it,  passed  over  a  steep 
hill,  and  descended  into  another  valley,  watered  by  the  same 
stream ;  when,  too  late  for  the  discovery  to  be  useful  to  us,  we 
perceived  a  level  wagon  road,  made  by  the  Mormons,  leading 
into  it.  Sevier  is  the  corruption  of  Severe,  and  is  called  on 
Colonel  Fremont's  map  Nicollet. 

This  valley  lies  north  and  south,  and  surpassed  in  beauty  and 
fertility  anything  we  had  yet  seen.  It  is  about  thirty  miles  in 
length  by  four  in  breadth,  surrounded  by  mountains,  down 
whose  sides  trickled  numberless  cool  and  limpid  brooks,  fringed 
with  willows  and  cottonwoods.  Sevier  Eiver  flows  through  its 
centre,  and  it  abounds  in  its  entire  breadth  in  rich  pasturage. 
The  mountains  which  inclose  it  were  clothed,  from  summit  to 
base,  with  oaks  and  pines. 

After  a  short  rest  we  proceeded  south  up  this  valley,  and  at 
dark  stopped  on  a  brook  running  from  the  westward  into  Sevier 
Eiver.  In  riding  through  the  grass  we  heard  numerous  rattle 
snakes,  and  killed  several ;  they  sprang  at  some  of  the  men  and 
animals,  but  none  were  bitten.  Day's  march,  18  miles;  whole 
distance,  1,277  miles. 

August  1.  We  travelled  until  noon  up  the  left  bank  of  Sevier 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  MORMON  SETTLEMENTS.  89 

Kiver,  and  halted  near  its  junction  with  the  San  Pasqual  (its 
main  fork),  where  the  latter  issues  from  a  cafion  at  the  head  of 
the  valley.  The  San  Pasqual,  above  the  canon,  flows  through 
a  valley  of  great  beauty. 

At  our  noon  halt,  we  struck  a  trail  which  we  supposed  to  be 
the  old  trail  from  Abiquiii  to  California ;  but  it  has  been  so 
long  disused  that  it  is  now  almost  obliterated. 

In  the  afternoon,  we  travelled  about  four  miles  up  a  ravine 
bearing  a  little  to  the  west  of  south,  and  which  took  us  to  the 
summit  of  a  steep  mountain.  We  had  left  the  wagon  trail  which 
we  had  found  in  the  valley,  as  it  took  a  long  circuit  to  avoid 
this  ascent.  The  summit  of  the  mountain  was  broad  and  flat, 
and  clothed  with  grass.  Day's  march,  36  miles ;  whole  distance, 
1,313  miles. 

August  2.  We  were  now  approaching  another  stage  in  our 
journey  which  we  were  impatient  to  reach.  The  Mormon  settle 
ments  near  Las  Yegas  de  Santa  Clara  were  at  a  short  distance, 
and  we  made  an  early  start  in  the  hope  of  reaching  them  before 
dark.  We  descended  the  mountains  in  a  westerly  direction 
through  abundantly-watered  valleys,  everywhere  covered  with 
grass.  I  found  wild  rye  growing  in  great  abundance,  the  seed 
quite  large  and  full. 

At  dusk,  on  the  previous  day,  we  had  discovered  a  party 
of  mounted  Indians  examining  us  from  a  neighboring  ridge, 
and  were  on  the  lookout  for  them  all  the  morning.  Soon 
after  sunrise  a  few  Pah-Utahs,  the  first  of  that  tribe  which 
we  had  seen,  came  running  down  a  hill-side  to  meet  us,  and7 
accosting  us  in  a  friendly  manner,  asked  whether  we  were 
Mormons  or  Swaps  (Americans).  They  informed  us  that  a 
Mormon  village  was  not  far  off,  and  Mr.  Beale  and  I,  riding  in 
advance  of  our  party,  in  a  few  hours,  arrived  at  the  town  of 
Paragoona,  in  Little  Salt  Lake  Valley,  near  Las  Yegas  de 
Santa  Clara. 

Paragoona  is  situated  in  the  valley  of  the  Little  Salt  Lake, 
and  lies  near  the  foot  of  the  mountains  which  form  its  eastern 
boundary,  at  four  miles  from  the  lake.  It  contains  about  thirty 
houses,  which,  although  built  of  adobes,  present  a  neat  and  com 
fortable  appearance.  The  adobes  are  small  and  well  pressed, 
and  are  made  of  a  pink-colored  clay.  The  houses  are  built  to 
form  a  quadrangle,  the  spaces  between  them  being  protected 
7 


90  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

by  a  strong  stockade  of  pine  pickets.  Outside  of  the  village  is 
an  area  of  fifty  acres  inclosed  within  a  single  fence,  and  culti 
vated  in  common  by  the  inhabitants.  It  is  called  The  Field, 
and  a  stream  from  the  Wahsatch  Mountains  irrigates  it,  after 
supplying  the  town  with  water. 

The  Mormons  have  found  iron  ore  in  the  mountains,  where 
they  have  established  several  smelting  furnaces ;  they  stated 
that  it  was  of  an  excellent  quality,  and  that  the  mines  were 
inexhaustible. 

Shortly  before  our  arrival  in  the  Territory,  hostilities  had 
broken  out  between  Walkah,  a  Utah  chief,  and  the  Mormons, 
and  we  found  them  in  a  state  of  great  alarm  and  excitement, 
in  consequence  of  some  of  his  recent  acts. 

We  did  not  remain  long  at  Paragoona ;  for  soon  after  our 
arrival,  the  inhabitants,  in  obedience  to  a  mandate  from  Go 
vernor  Brigham  Young,  commenced  removing  to  the  town  of 
Parawan,  four  miles  to  the  southward,  as  he  considered  it  unsafe, 
with  the  smallness  of  their  number,  for  them  to  remain  at  Para 
goona.  It  was  to  us  a  strange  sight  to  witness  the  alacrity  with 
which  these  people  obeyed  an  order  which  compelled  them  to 
destroy  in  an  instant,  the  fruits  of  two  years'  labor;  and  no 
time  was  lost  in  commencing  the  work  of  destruction.  Their 
houses  were  demolished,  the  doors,  windows,  and  all  portable 
wood- work  being  reserved  for  future  dwellings ;  and  wagons 
were  soon  on  the  road  to  Parawan,  loaded  with  their  furniture 
and  other  property. 

"We  left  Paragoona  in  the  afternoon,  and  rode  to  Parawan 
over  an  excellent  wagon-road,  made  and  kept  in  repair,  and 
bridged  in  many  places,  by  the  Mormons.  "We  passed,  at  a  mile 
on  our  left,  a  large  grist  and  saw  mill  worked  by  water  power. 

This  ride  to  Parawan  formed  a  strange  contrast  to  our  late 
journeying  through  the  wilderness.  At  all  the  cross-roads  were 
finger-posts,  and  mile-stones  measured  the  distance. 

Parawan  is  situated  at  the  base  of  the  mountains,  and  con 
tains  about  one  hundred  houses,  built  in  a  square,  and  facing 
inwards.  In  their  rear,  and  outside  of  the  town,  are  vegetable 
gardens,  each  dwelling  having  a  lot  running  back  about  one 
hundred  yards.  By  an  excellent  system  of  irrigation,  water  is 
brought  to  the  front  and  rear  of  each  house,  and  through  the 
centre  and  outside  boundary  of  each  garden  lot.  The  houses 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  MORMON  SETTLEMENTS.  91 

are  ornamented  in  front  with  small  flower-gardens,  which  are 
fenced  off  from  the  square,  and  shaded  with  trees.  The  Field 
covers  about  four  hundred  acres,  and  was  in  a  high  state  of 
cultivation,  the  wheat  and  corn  being  as  fine  as  any  that  we  had 
seen  in  the  States ;  the  people  took  a  laudable  pride  in  showing 
us  what  they  had  accomplished  in  so  short  a  time,  and  against 
so  many  obstacles.  Day's  travel,  32  miles;  whole  distance, 
1,345  miles. 

August  3.  Most  of  the  day  was  spent  in  having  the  animals 
shod,  and  in  getting  extra  shoes  made  to  replace  those  which 
might  be  lost  in  crossing  the  desert  region  between  the  Vegas  de 
Santa  Clara,  and  Mohaveh  River.  An  American  blacksmith, 
assisted  by  a  couple  of  Pah-Utah  youths,  did  this  work,  and  we 
were  surprised  to  see  what  skilful  workmen  these  Indians  made. 
Most  of  the  Mormon  families  have  one  or  more  Pah-Utah  chil 
dren,  whom  they  had  bought  from  their  parents ;  they  were 
treated  with  kindness,  and  even  tenderness ;  were  taught  to  call 
their  protectors  "  father"  and  "  mother,"  and  instructed  in  the 
rudiments  of  education.  The  Mormon  rulers  encourage  a  sys 
tem  which  ameliorates  the  condition  of  these  children  by  re 
moving  them  from  the  influence  of  their  savage  parents,  but 
their  laws  forbid  their  being  taken  out  of  the  Territory.  The 
children  are  not  interdicted  from  intercourse  with  their  people, 
who  are  allowed  freely  to  enter  the  town ;  but  the  latter  evince 
very  little  interest  in  their  offspring,  for,  having  sold  them  to 
the  whites,  they  no  longer  consider  them  their  kith  or  kin. 

The  water  of  Little  Salt  Lake  is  as  briny,  we  were  told,  as  that 
of  Great  Salt  Lake,  and  we  noticed  that  its  shores  were  covered 
with  saline  incrustations  for  a  mile  or  more  from  the  water's 
edge ;  but  the  Mormons  stated  that  the  salt  was  of  little  value, 
being  impregnated  with  saleratus  and  other  alkaline  matter, 
which  rendered  it  unfit  for  use.  They  obtain  their  supplies  of 
this  article  from  mines  of  rock-salt  in  the  mountains. 

The  excitement  occasioned  by  the  threats  of  "Walkah,  the 
Utah  chief,  continued  to  increase  during  the  day  we  spent  at 
Parawan.  Families  flocked  in  from  Paragooua,  and  other  small 
settlements  and  farms,  bringing  with  them  their  movables,  and 
their  flocks  and  herds.  Parties  of  mounted  men,  well  armed, 
patrolled  the  country;  expresses  came  in  from  different  quar 
ters,  bringing  accounts  of  attacks  by  the  Indians,  on  small  par- 


92  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

ties  and  unprotected  farms  and  houses.  During  our  stay,  Wal- 
kah  sent  in  a  polite  message  to  Colonel  Gr.  A.  Smith,  who  had 
military  command  of  the  district,  and  governed  it  by  martial  law, 
telling  him  that  "the  Mormons  were  d d  fools  for  abandon 
ing  their  houses  and  towns,  for  he  did  not  intend  to  molest  them 
there,  as  it  was  his  intention  to  confine  his  depredations  to  their 
cattle,  and  that  he  advised  them  to  return  and  mind  their  crops, 
for,  if  they  neglected  them,  they  would  starve,  and  be  obliged 
to  leave  the  country,  which  wras  not  what  he  desired,  for  then 
there  would  be  no  cattle  for  him  to  take."  He  ended  by  de 
claring  war  for  four  years.  This  message  did  not  tend  to  allay 
the  fears  of  the  Mormons,  who,  in  this  district,  were  mostly 
foreigners,  and  stood  in  great  awe  of  Indians. 

The  Utah  chieftain  who  occasioned  all  this  panic  and  ex 
citement,  is  a  man  of  great  subtlety,  and  indomitable  energy. 
He  is  not  a  Utah  by  birth,  but  has  acquired  such  an  extraor 
dinary  ascendency  over  that  tribe  by  his  daring  exploits,  that 
all  the  restless  spirits  and  ambitious  young  warriors  in  it  have 
joined  his  standard.  Having  an  unlimited  supply  of  fine  horses, 
and  being  inured  to  every  fatigue  and  privation,  he  keeps  the 
territories  of  New  Mexico  and  Utah,  the  provinces  of  Chihuahua 
and  Sonora,  and  the  southern  portion  of  California,  in  constant 
alarm.  His  movements  are  so  rapid,  and  his  plans  so  skilfully 
and  so  secretly  laid,  that  he  has  never  once  failed  in  any  en 
terprise,  and  has  scarcely  disappeared  from  one  district  before 
he  is  heard  of  in  another.  He  frequently  divides  his  men  into 
two  or  more  bands,  which,  making  their  appearance  at  different 
points  at  the  same  time,  each  headed,  it  is  given  out,  by  the 
dreaded  Walkah  in  person,  has  given  him  with  the  ignorant 
Mexicans,  the  attribute  of  ubiquity.  The  principal  object  of 
his  forays  is  to  drive  off  horses  and  cattle,  but  more  particularly 
the  first ;  and  among  the  Utahs  we  noticed  horses  with  brands 
familiar  to  us  in  New  Mexico  and  California. 

He  has  adopted  the  name  of  Walker  (corrupted  to  Walkah), 
on  account  of  the  close  intimacy  and  friendship  which  in  for 
mer  days  united  him  to  Joe  Walker,  an  old  mountaineer,  and 
the  same  who  discovered  Walker's  Pass  in  the  Sierra  Nevada. 

This  chief  had  a  brother  as  valiant  and  crafty  as  himself,  to 
whom  he  was  greatly  attached.  Both  speaking  Spanish  and 
broken  English,  they  were  enabled  to  maintain  intercourse  with 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  MORMON  SETTLEMENTS.  93 

the  whites  without  the  aid  of  an  interpreter.  This  brother  the 
Mormons  thought  they  had  killed,  for,  having  repelled  a  night 
attack  on  a  mill,  which  was  led  by  him,  on  the  next  morning 
they  found  a  rifle  and  a  hatchet  which  they  recognized  as  his, 
and  also  traces  of  blood  and  tracks  of  men  apparently  carrying 
a  heavy  body.  Although  rejoicing  at  the  death  of  one  of  their 
most  implacable  enemies,  the  Mormons  dreaded  the  wrath  of 
the  great  chieftain,  which  they  felt  would  not  be  appeased  until 
he  had  avenged  his  brother's  blood  in  their  own.  The  Mormons 
were  surprised  at  our  having  passed  in  safety  through  Walkah's 
territory,  and  they  did  not  know  to  what  they  were  to  attribute 
our  escape  from  destruction.  They  told  us  that  the  cattle  tracks 
which  we  had  seen  a  few  days  previous  were  those  of  a  portion 
of  a  large  drove  lifted  by  Walkah,  and  that  the  mounted  men 
we  had  noticed  in  the  mountains  in  the  evening  of  August  1, 
were  scouts  sent  out  by  him  to  watch  our  movements.  They 
endeavored  to  dissuade  us  from  prosecuting  our  journey,  for 
they  stated  that  it  was  unsafe  to  travel  even  between  their  towns 
without  an  escort  of  from  twenty-five  to  thirty  men. 

The  Mormons  had  published  a  reward  of  fifteen  thousand 
dollars  for  Walkah's  head,  but  it  was  a  serious  question  among 
them  who  should  "  bell  the  cat." 

We  procured  at  Parawan  a  small  supply  of  flour  and  some 
beef,  which  we  buccanSe'd. 

The  kind  reception  that  we  received  from  the  inhabitants 
of  these  settlements,  during  our  short  sojourn  among  them, 
strongly  contrasted  with  what  we  had  been  led  to  anticipate 
from  the  reports  of  the  Mexicans  and  Indians  whom  we  had 
met  on  the  road.  On  our  arrival,  Colonel  G.  A.  Smith  sent 
an  officer  to  inquire  who  we  were,  our  business,  destination, 
&c.,  at  the  same  time  apologizing  for  the  inquiries,  by  stating 
that  the  disturbed  condition  of  the  country  rendered  it  neces 
sary  to  exercise  a  strict  vigilance  over  all  strangers,  particularly 
over  those  who  came  from  the  direction  of  their  enemy's  terri 
tory.  Mr.  Beale's  replies  being,  of  course,  satisfactory,  we 
were  treated  as  friends,  and  received  every  mark  of  cordiality. 
We  spent  the  evening  of  our  arrival  in  Parawan  at  the  house 
of  Col.  Smith,  who  was  in  command  of  this  portion  of  the  ter 
ritory,  and  was  organizing  a  military  force  for  its  protection. 
He  related-  to  us  the  origin  of  these  southern  settlements,  the 


94  CENTRAL  EOUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

many  difficulties  and  hardships  that  they  had  to  contend  with, 
and  gave  us  much  interesting  information  of  the  geography  of  the 
surrounding  country.  He  also  stated  that  furnaces  for  smelting 
iron  ore  were  already  in  operation  in  the  vicinity  of  Paragoona 
and  Parawan,  and  that  the  metal,  which  was  obtained  in  sufficient 
quantity  to  supply  any  demand,  was  also  of  an  excellent  quality ; 
and  that  veins  of  coal  had  been  found  near  Cedar  City,  on  Coal 
Creek,  eighteen  miles  south  of  Parawan,  one  of  which  was 
fifteen  feet  in  thickness,  and  apparently  inexhaustible.  A  large 
force  of  English  miners  was  employed  in  working  these  mines, 
and  pronounced  the  coal  to  be  equal  to  the  best  English  coal. 
I  saw  it  used  in  the  forges  ;  it  is  bituminous,  and  burns  with  a 
bright  flame. 

As  regards  the  odious  practice  of  polygamy  which  these 
people  have  engrafted  on  their  religion,  it  is  not  to  be  sup 
posed  that  we  could  learn  much  about  it  during  our  short  stay, 
and  its  existence  would  even  have  been  unobserved  by  us,  had 
not  a  "  Saint"  voluntarily  informed  us  that  he  was  "  one  of  those 
Mormons  who  believed  in  a  plurality  of  wives,"  and  added, 
"  for  my  part  I  have  six,  and  this  is  one  of  them,"  pointing  to 
a  female  who  was  present.  Taking  this  subject  for  his  text, 
he  delivered  a  discourse  highly  eulogistic  of  the  institution  of 
marriage,  as  seen  in  a  Mormon  point  of  view ;  of  the  antiquity 
of  polygamy,  its  advantages,  the  evils  it  prevents,  quoting  the 
example  of  the  patriarchs,  and  of  eastern  nations,  and  backing 
his  argument  with  statistics  of  the  relative  number  of  males 
and  females  born,  obtained  no  doubt  from  the  same  source  as 
the  Book  of  Mormon.  This  discourse  did  not  increase  our 
respect  for  the  tenets  he  advocated,  but  we  deemed  it  useless  to 
engage  in  a  controversy  with  one  who  made  use  of  such  so 
phistry.  From  what  he  said,  I  inferred  that  a  large  number  of 
Mormons  do  not  entirely  approve  of  the  "  spiritual  wife"  sys 
tem,  and,  judging  from  some  of  the  households,  it  was  evident 
that  the  weaker  vessel  has  in  many  instances  here,  as  elsewhere, 
the  control  of  the  menage. 

We  left  Parawan  at  dusk,  having  sent  most  of  the  party  in 
advance,  with  directions  to  await  our  arrival  at  the  nearest  of 
those  rich  meadows  known  as  Las  Yegas  de  Santa  Clara,  about 
eighteen  miles  distant. 

On  entering  the  valley  of  the  Little  Salt  Lake,  we  came  upon 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  MORMON  SETTLEMENTS.  95 

the  line  surveyed  by  Col.  Fremont,  and  described  in  his  report 
published  in  1846.  It  was  our  intention  to  follow  this  line 
until  we  reached  Mohaveh  Eiver,  where  we  intended  to  take 
two  or  three  men  and  enter  Tulare  Valley  through  "Walker's 
Pass  in  the  Sierra  Nevada,  allowing  the  remainder  to  pursue 
their  journey  up  the  Mohaveh,  through  the  Cajon  Pass,  to  Los 
Angeles.  As  the  Mormons  had  opened  a  wagon-road  all  the 
way,  we  anticipated  no  difficulty  in  getting  to  our  journey's 
end  in  good  time. 

The  party  arrived  at  Cedar  City  about  midnight,  but  indis 
position  prevented  me  from  keeping  up  with  them,  and  I  was 
finally  compelled  to  spread  my  blanket  near  the  roadside  and 
rest  until  morning.  Day's  travel,  18  miles;  whole  distance, 
1,363  miles. 

Aug.  4.  I  saddled  my  mule  at  daylight,  and  in  a  few  hours 
reached  Cedar  City.  I  was  informed  here  that  the  party  had 
already  left,  but  that  I  could  overtake  the  camp  a  few  miles 
from  the  town. 

Cedar  City  is  a  place  of  more  importance  than  either  Para- 
wan  or  Paragoona,  but  is  built  on  a  similar  plan.  Around  it 
are  extensive  fields,  abundantly  irrigated,  giving  promise  of  a 
rich  harvest ;  the  hills  in  the  rear  of  the  town  are  well  timber 
ed,  and  it  is  in  this  vicinity  that  the  Mormons  have  discovered 
the  coal  veins  destined  to  form  the  wealth  of  the  region.  The 
inhabitants  are  principally  foreigners,  and  mostly  Englishmen 
from  the  coal  districts  of  Great  Britain.  At  the  time  of  our 
visit,  the  place  was  crowded  with  the  people  of  the  surrounding 
country  seeking  refuge  from  the  Indians,  and  its  square  was 
blocked  up  with  wagons,  furniture,  tents,  farming  implements, 
&c.,  in  the  midst  of  which  were  men,  women,  and  children, 
together  with  every  description  of  cattle,  creating  a  scene  of 
confusion  difficult  to  describe. 

I  overtook  the  camp  in  a  large  grove  of  cottonwoods,  and  we 
immediately  resumed  our  journey. 

It  is  here  that  we  saw  the  first  of  the  meadows  of  Santa 
Clara,  which  give  some  celebrity  to  this  region.  They  are 
embraced  between  37°  and  38°  north  latitude.  This  vega  was 
covered  with  tender  grass  and  watered  by  numerous  streams, 
which  preserve  its  freshness  even  during  the  most  sultry  sea- 


96  CENTEAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

sons.  To  travellers  from  the  south,  coming  off  the  desert  lying 
between  the  Mohaveh  and  these  vegas,  they  certainly  offer  a 
delightful  relief;  and,  although  our  animals  had  only  recently 
been  luxuriating  in  the  rich  mountain  pastures  of  the  Wah- 
satch,  their  uniform  verdure  and  level  surface,  shaded  in  many 
places  by  extensive  glades  of  cottonwoods,  offered  a  delightful 
feeling  of  security,  as  though  we  were  once  more  within  the 
confines  of  civilization. 

We  now  travelled  on  the  Mormon  wagon-trail  leading  to  San 
Bernardino,  in  the  south  of  California.  We  had  heard  of  an 
other  route  leading  west  to  Owen's  Eiver,  thence  through  a 
pass  in  the  Sierra  Nevada,  which  leads  into  the  Tulare  Valley 
near  the  head  of  the  Four  Creeks ;  but  unfortunately  we  were 
unable  to  take  this  route,  for  we  could  neither  obtain  a  guide 
nor  even  information  on  the  subject ;  and,  moreover,  it  would 
have  been  departing  from  his  views  of  examining  the  country  on 
the  Mohaveh,  for  the  purpose  of  locating  Indians  there,  for  Mr. 
Beale  to  have  altered  his  course.  .-  The  route  by  Owen's  Eiver 
shortens  the  distance  nearly  two  hundred_  miles,  cutting  off  the 
large  elbow  to  the  southwest,  and,  according  to  the  accounts  we 
had  received,  it  conducts  over  a  tolerably  level,  well  watered, 
and  grassy  country. 

We  rested  for  a  short  time  at  noon,  and  then  travelled  until 
10  P.  M.  over  a  level  plain  and  good  wagon-road,  on  each  side 
of  which  was  much  dry  grass;  but  we  saw  no  water  until  en 
camping  on  a  vega  (meadow)  which  we  reached  through  a 
gap  in  the  mountains  on  our  left.  This  meadow  was  about 
seven  miles  in  length,  penetrating  deep  into  the  mountains, 
and,  although  there  was  little  running  water,  yet  the  grass  was 
everywhere  green  and  tender.  Day's  travel,  38  miles ;  whole 
distance,  1,401  miles. 

Aug.  5.  We  returned  to  the  plain,  and  continued  to  travel 
south  by  west  until  noon,  when  we  encamped  in  the  most 
southern  of  the  vegas,  which  was  more  beautiful  than  any  we 
had  yet  seen — rich  in  waving  grass,  and  watered  by  numerous 
rills.  It  is  inclosed  by  a  low  ridge  of  hills;  its  declivity  is 
mostly  to  the  northward ;  being  on  the  rim  of  the  Great  Salt 
Lake  Basin,  in  fact,  on  the  divide,  a  portion  of  its  waters  run 
into  the  Basin,  whilst  the  Bio  de  Santa  Clara,  which  runs  into 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  MORMON  SETTLEMENTS.  97 

the  Eio  de  la  Virgen,  a  tributary  of  the  Great  Colorado,  takes 
its  rise  here. 

These  vegas  are  called  by  the  Mormons  Mountain  Meadows. 

In  the  afternoon,  travelling  south,  we  descended  a  slope, 
which  brought  us  after  dark  to  Santa  Clara  Creek,  near  which 
we  encamped.  Day's  travel,  28  miles ;  whole  distance,  1,429 
miles. 


98  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 


CHAPTER    VI. 

DEPARTURE  FROM  LAS  VEGAS  DE  SANTA  CLARA.      PASSAGE  OF 
THE  DESERT.      ARRIVAL  AT  LOS  ANGELES,  CALIFORNIA. 

August  6.  The  Santa  Clara  at  our  encampment  was  a  slender 
rill ;  but  a  few  miles  lower  down,  its  volume  was  considerably 
increased  by  the  accession  of  several  streams. 

We  were  now  approaching  the  desert,  and  we  this  day 
travelled  only  ten  miles,  to  allow  our  animals  to  recruit  by  rest 
and  food.  The  road  followed  down  the  stream,  and  although 
level,  was  much  overgrown  with  bushes. 

After  travelling  a  few  miles,  we  met  a  small  party  of  Pah- 
Utah  Indians,  who  evinced  great  joy  at  seeing  us,  accosting  us 
without  fear.  On  approaching  their  village,  a  collection  of 
miserable  bush  huts,  we  were  met  by  an  aged  Indian,  appa 
rently  their  chief,  holding  in  his  hand  a  pipe,  the  stem  of  which 
was  a  reed  and  the  bowl  a  piece  of  tin.  "With  much  gravity, 
he  bade  us  welcome  to  his  village,  and  after  blowing  three 
wreaths  of  smoke  towards  the  sun,  he  offered  us  their  symbol 
of  friendship,  with  which  we  imitated  his  example.  As  soon 
as  we  had  dismounted,  a  venerable  squaw,  laboring  under  great 
excitement,  rushed  towards  Mr.  Beale,  and  seizing  his  hands, 
forced  into  them  a  couple  of  green  tunias  (prickly  pears),  which 
she  invited  him  to  eat,  a  ceremony,  I  have  no  doubt,  having  a 
meaning  as  mystical  as  the  first.  And  having  thus  entered 
into  bonds  to  keep  the  peace  and  complied  with  all  the  exigen 
cies  of  etiquette,  we  were  considered  the  guests  of  the  nation. 

Among  these  Indians  we  witnessed  one  of  the  benefits  which 
they  have  derived  from  their  intercourse  with  the  Mormons, 
who  take  every  opportunity  to  ameliorate  the  condition  of  this 
wretched  tribe.  Near  their  village  was  a  large  and  well-irri 
gated  field,  cultivated  with  care,  and  planted  with  corn,  pump 
kins,  squashes,  and  melons. 


PASSAGE  OF  THE  DESERT.  99 

The  Pah-Utah  Indians  are  the  greatest  horse  thieves  on  the 
continent.  Rarely  attempting  the  bold  coups-de-main  of  the 
Utahs,  they  dog  travellers  during  their  march  and  follow  on 
their  trail  like  jackals,  cutting  off  any  stragglers  whom  they 
can  surprise  and  overpower,  and  pick  up  such  animals  as 
stray  from  the  band  or  lag  behind  from  fatigue.  At  night, 
lurking  around  the  camp,  and  concealing  themselves  behind 
rocks  and  bushes,  they  communicate  with  each  other  by  imi 
tating  the  sounds  of  birds  and  animals.  They  never  ride,  but 
use  as  food  the  horses  and  mules  that  they  steal,  and,  if  within 
arrow-shot  of  one  of  these  animals,  a  poisoned  shaft  secures 
him  as  their  prize.  Their  arms  are  bows  and  arrows  tipped 
with  obsidian,  and  lances  sometimes  pointed  with  iron,  which 
they  obtain  from  the  wrecks  of  wagons  found  along  the  road ; 
they  also  use  a  pronged  stick  to  drag  lizards  from  their  holes. 

The  Indians  being  apprehensive  that  our  animals  might  tres 
pass  on  their  field,  which  was  without  inclosure,  we  permitted 
them  to  drive  the  band  several  miles  up  the  stream,  where  we 
had  noticed  an  abundance  of  white  clover ;  and,  whilst  thus 
confiding  in  them,  we  had  security  for  their  honesty  by  several 
Indians  passing  the  night  in  our  camp,  where  they  laid  near 
the  fire,  coiled  up  like  dogs ;  besides  which,  their  women  and 
children,  and  entire  crops,  on  which  they  depended  for  their 
subsistence  during  the  approaching  winter,  were  also  in  our 
power. 

In  the  afternoon  we  visited  their  huts,  which  presented  a 
squalid  scene  of  dirt  and  wretchedness.  When  the  women  saw 
us  approaching  they  concealed  their  children,  fearing  that  we 
might  wish  to  carry  them  off.  Noticing  that  something  moved 
under  a  large  wicker  basket,  one  of  us  examined  its  contents, 
which  were  found  to  be  a  little  naked  fellow,  his  teeth  chatter 
ing  with  fear. 

Yearly  expeditions  are  fitted  out  in  New  Mexico  to  trade 
with  the  Pah-Utahs  for  their  children,  and  recourse  is  often  had 
to  foul  means  to  force  their  parents  to  part  with  them.  So 
common  is  it  to  make  a  raid  for  this  purpose,  that  it  is  consi 
dered  as  no  more  objectionable  than  to  go  on  a  buffalo  or  a 
mustang  hunt.  One  of  our  men,  Jose*  Galliego,  who  was  an 
old  hand  at  this  species  of  man-hunting,  related  to  us,  with 
evident  gusto,  numerous  anecdotes  on  this  subject ;  and  as  we 


100  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

approached  the  village,  he  rode  up  to  Mr.  Beale,  and  eagerly 
proposed  to  him  that  we  should  "charge  on  it  like  h — 1,  kill  the 
mans,  and  may-be  catch  some  of  the  little  boys  and  gak" 

Camp  was  all  day  crowded  with  men  and  squaws ;  the  former 
had  reduced  their  costume  to  first  principles,  and  even  the  latter 
were  attired  in  a  style  of  the  most  primitive  simplicity.  They 
spoke  with  great  volubility  and  vehemence,  using  many  gesticu 
lations,  regardless  of  the  common  usage  of  other  Indians,  of 
speaking  but  one  at  a  time.  It  appeared  as  though  they  thought 
aloud,  and  were  not  addressing  any  one  in  particular.  Our 
ragged  and  forlorn  appearance,  unshaven  chins,  and  sun-scarred 
visages,  excited  great  merriment,  and  they  used  no  ceremony 
in  pointing  and  laughing  at  us.  Day's  travel,  10  miles ;  whole 
distance,  1,439  miles. 

August  7.  The  Indians  drove  our  animals  into  camp  before 
dawn,  and  we  were  on  the  road  at  sunrise,  travelling  down  the 
Santa  Clara.  In  ten  miles  the  road  diverged  to  the  right  from 
the  creek,  and  for  eight  miles  passed  through  a  region  of  rugged 
and  arid  hills  and  canons,  when  it  issued  upon  an  inclined 
plane  leading  to  the  Rio  de  la  Virgen.  Although  generally 
level,  it  was  a  rough  road  for  wagons,  and  with  the  exception 
of  one  good  spring,  four  miles  from  the  Santa  Clara,  we  saw 
no  water  until  we  encamped  on  the  Virgen.  A  scanty  growth 
of  cactus,  agave  americana,  greasewood,  and  small  cedars,  was 
the  only  vegetation  after  leaving  the  creek.  A  Pah-Utah 
handed  me  some  ears  of  wheat,  the  grains  of  which  I  preserved, 
and  he  stated  that  it  grows  spontaneously  near  the  Santa  Clara. 
It  is  from  this  stock  that  the  New  Mexicans  have  obtained  the 
seed  which  they  call  Payute  wheat,  and  the  Mormons,  Taos  wheat. 
It  has  been  much  improved  by  cultivation,  and  is  considered 
the  best  in  New  Mexico  and  Utah.  A  party  of  Indians  accom 
panied  us  for  twelve  miles,  begging  for  tabac,  and  we  noticed 
several  smokes  during  the  day,  and  fires  after  dark,  made  by  the 
natives  on  the  Virgen,  to  warn  the  country  of  our  approach. 
We  set  double  guard  at  night,  and  the  mules  evinced  by  their 
restlessness  and  uneasiness  the  vicinity  of  Pah-Utahs.  Day's 
travel,  35  miles;  whole  distance,  1,474  miles. 

August  8.  The  Rio  de  la  Virgen  is  a  turbid  and  shallow 
stream,  about  twelve  yards  in  breadth.  It  flows  with  a  rapid 
current  over  a  sandy  bed,  and  as  we  descended  it,  the  growth 


PASSAGE  OF  THE  DESERT.  101 

of  cottonwood  gave  place  to  mesquit  trees  and  willows.  The 
mesquit  tree  bears  in  some  localities  an  abundance  of  sweet 
pods,  on  which  mules  feed  greedily,  and  they  are  a  good  sub 
stitute  for  corn,  being  almost  as  nutritious.  We  crossed  scanty 
patches  of  wiry  salt  grass,  which  affords  but  little  nourishment. 

The  river  bottom  was  hemmed  in  by  bluffs,  beyond  which, 
on  the  right,  was  an  extensive  plain  much  cut  up  by  gullies, 
and  on  the  left  a  range  of  dark  mountains,  which  in  many 
places  came  down  to  the  river's  edge.  The  road  which  followed 
down  the  bottom,  was  at  times  through  deep  sand,  as  was  mostly 
the  case  since  leaving  the  Yegas  de  Santa  Clara.  The  scenery 
was  gloomy  and  forbidding,  and  gave  indication  that  we  were 
approaching  a  wild  and  desolate  region.  We  noticed  during 
the  day  many  fresh  Indian  tracks,  and  at  times  caught  glimpses 
of  dark  forms  gliding  through  the  bushes  on  either  side.  Day's 
march,  29  miles ;  whole  distance,  1,503  miles. 

August  9.  By  keeping  a  watchful  guard,  our  animals  were 
saved  from  the  Pah-Utahs,  who  hovered  around  us  all  night. 

We  rode  down  the  Virgen  ten  miles  farther,  when  we  left  it 
to  cross  the  hot  and  sterile  plain,  eight  miles  broad,  extending 
between  the  Yirgen  and  the  Rio  Atascoso  (Muddy  Creek).  It 
was  thickly  covered  with  sharp  flints,  and  bore  a  scanty  growth 
of  stunted  mesquit  bushes,  which  on  the  dry  plains  bear  few 
pods ;  for  a  couple  of  miles  from  each  stream  the  country  was 
much  broken  by  ravines. 

Rio  Atascoso  is  a  narrow  stream,  but  in  many  places  quite 
deep ;  its  water  is  clear,  and  it  derives  its  name  from  the  slimy 
and  miry  nature  of  its  banks  and  bed.  Day's  march,  18  miles ; 
whole  distance,  1,521  miles. 

August  10.  We  again  had  Indians  around  us  all  night,  mak 
ing  their  usual  signals,  but  by  keeping  a  strict  double  guard 
they  were  prevented  from  stealing  or  wounding  our  animals. 
Soon  after  sunrise,  a  party  of  Pah-Utahs  showed  their  heads 
from  behind  some  rocks  near  camp,  and  shouted  to  us ;  find 
ing  that  we  did  not  attempt  to  molest  them,  they  cautiously 
exposed  more  of  their  persons,  and  finally  dropped  among  us 
by  twos  and  threes,  until  they  numbered  fifteen.  They  pro 
fessed  entire  innocence  of  being  concerned  in  the  proceedings 
of  the  previous  night,  laying  them  all  to  the  charge  of  other 
Pah-Utahs,  and  expressed  for  us  the  warmest  attachment.  At 


102  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

this  time  a  strange  figure,  entirely  divested  of  clothing,  suddenly 
made  his  appearance  on  the  summit  of  a  rock  thirty  yards  from 
us ;  his  face  was  covered  with  a  thick  coating  of  crimson  paint, 
a  slender  bone,  eight  inches  in  length,  was  thrust  through  the 
septum  of  his  nose,  and  in  his  left  hand  he  carried  a  bow  and 
a  bunch  of  arrows.  This  worthy  addressed  us  a  long  speech, 
introducing  himself  as  the  great  chief  of  all  the  Pah-Utahs 
(which  was  false,  as  they  recognize  no  chief),  intimating  that  the 
monotonous  existence  which  he  had  hitherto  been  leading  had 
become  irksome  to  him,  that  he  wished  to  travel  and  see  the 
white  man's  world,  and  that,  if  we  consented  to  admit  him  into 
our  company,  he  would  endeavor  to  "make  himself  generally 
useful."  He  ended  by  offering  to  give  himself  away  to  any  one 
who  would  accept  of  him.  Although  any  accession  to  our 
number  was  not  at  all  desirable,  to  have  refused  his  request 
would  have  nipped  in  the  bud  the  aspirations  of  this  ambitious 
youth,  Mr.  Beale  therefore  allowed  him  to  join  our  party,  hand 
ing  him  a  pair  of  old  buckskin  pants  and  a  woollen  shirt,  which 
he  at  once  donned,  feeling  very  proud,  but  very  uncomfortable. 

The  first  Jornada  (long  distance  between  waters)  across  the 
desert  commences  at  the  Muddy;  and  to  avoid  the  heat  which 
at  this  season  is  very  oppressive  during  the  day,  we  did  not  re 
sume  our  journey  until  the  afternoon.  The  road  led  us  for  six 
miles  up  a  broad  and  sandy  ravine,  issuing  from  which  we  en 
tered  upon  an  extensive  and  undulating  plain,  whose  sandy  and 
stony  soil  produced  no  vegetation  except  artemisia.  We 
travelled  all  night,  during  which  a  hot  wind  blew  from  the 
southward. 

August  11.  Dawn  found  us  still  on  the  Jornada,  between  Mud 
dy  Creek  and  the  Ojo  del  Gaetan  (Spring  of  Gaetau)  or  Vega 
Quintana,  as  this  meadow  is  sometimes  called,  which  we  reached 
at  8  A.  M.  without  the  loss  of  an  animal.  Thus  far  we  had  lost 
three  mules ;  one  was  drowned  in  the  Uncompagre,  another 
was  left  on  the  Virgen,  and  the  third  at  the  Muddy.  Both  of 
the  latter  were  animals  that  we  had  obtained  on  the  journey, 
and,  being  unshod,  became  tender-footed  and  were  unable  to 
keep  up  with  the  train. 

The  Vega  Quintana  is  a  meadow  of  several  thousand  acres  in 
extent,  watered  through  its  centre  by  two  deep  but  narrow 


PASSAGE  OF  THE  DESERT.  103 

streams  of  clear  and  icy  cold  water.*  It  is  shaded  in  many 
places  with  mesquit  trees,  willows,  and  vines  covered  with  clus 
ters  of  small  but  sweet  grapes.  Two  Pah-Utahs,  who  were 
gathering  mesquit  beans,  fled  in  alarm  at  our  approach,  and 
we  saw  numerous  coveys  of  the  California  partridge.  This 
oasis  deserves  the  name  of  The  Diamond  of  the  Desert,  so 
beautiful  and  bright  does  it  appear  in  the  centre  of  the  dreary 
waste  that  surrounds  it.  Dusty  and  weary  as  we  were,  after  our 
long  and  toilsome  ride,  a  bath  in  the  brook  was  a  luxury  in 
which  we  indulged  more  than  once  during  the  day  that  we 
spent  here.  Day's  march,  45  miles;  whole  distance,  1,566  miles. 

August  12.  "We  reached  the  second  vega,  Quintana,  at  11 
A.  M.,  after  riding  seventeen  miles  southwest  by  west ;  the  road 
passed  over  a  stony  desert,  which  produced  no  other  vegetation 
than  stunted  artemisia  and  an  occasional  cactus  and  mesquit 
bush.  The  rivulet  which  here  fertilizes  the  ground  and  pro 
duces  some  verdure  issues  from  the  mountains  through  a  bald 
and  rugged  gap. 

This  vega  is  a  favorite  camping  place  of  the  Mormons,  and 
is  covered  with  the  wrecks  of  wagons  and  of  stoves  and  other 
iron  work. 

All  our  provisions,  except  pinole,  were  now  exhausted ;  and 
as  this  was  our  only  dependence,  we  made  a  division  of  what 
remained  between  the  ten  persons  who  now  (since  the  Pah- 
Utah  had  joined  us)  composed  our  party.  We  found  that 
by  using  only  six  table-spoonfuls  each  per  day,  the  pinole 
might  be  made  to  last  until  our  arrival  in  the  settlements  of 
California.  We  had  seen  no  game  for  many  days,  nor  did  we 
expect  to  meet  any  until  we  reached  the  Mohaveh.  Day's 
march,  17  miles ;  whole  distance,  1,583  miles. 

August  13.  Wearied  with  watching  all  night,  we  resumed 
our  journey  at  dawn.  Indians  were  around  us  as  usual,  and 
many  signs  of  their  vicinity,  which  would  have  escaped  our 
notice,  were  pointed  out  to  us  by  "  Pite,"  as  we  had  christened 
our  new  follower.  We  had  scarcely  started,  before  a  torrent  of 
yells  and  abuse  was  poured  upon  us  from  every  side.  No  one 
could  be  perceived,  but  every  rock  and  bush  apparently  con- 

*  In  May,  1844,  Colonel  Frdmont  ascertained  the  temperature  of  these  springs 
as  being  71°  and  73°  respectively.  We  found  them  so  cold  that  it  required  Bome 
resolution  to  bathe  in  them. 


104  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

cealed  an  Indian.  Pite  was  not  slow  in  replying  to  them,  and 
for  a  moment  they  were  silent  with  astonishment  at  receiving, 
in  such  pure  vernacular,  a  reply  to  their  insults.  Soon,  however, 
the  war  of  words  was  renewed  with  fresh  fury,  and  had  we 
understood  them,  we  should  doubtless  have  enjoyed  a  very 
choice  specimen  of  Pah-Utah  billingsgate.  Pite  prudently  kept 
close  among  us ;  brave  as  he  was  with  his  tongue,  he  entertained 
a  wholesome"  fear  of  falling  into  the  hands  of  his  fellow-country 
men,  for  they  would  soon  have  brought  his  travels  to  a  close. 

Our  road  led  us  through  a  canon  or  chasm  which  we  had 
entered  the  previous  day ;  it  followed  the  bed  of  the  stream, 
and  was  much  obstructed  by  heavy  sand  and  scattered  rocks. 
We  passed  two  singular  caves,  one  of  which  presented  a  close 
resemblance  to  the  cyclopean  order  of  architecture,  with  the 
principle  of  the  arch  and  keystone  admirably  preserved.  The 
other  forcibly  reminded  us  of  the  facade  of  an  old  Catholic 
church,  such  as  is  often  seen  in  Italy. 

After  travelling  ten  miles  through  rocky  ravines,  with  bald 
and  furrowed  mountains  on  either  side,  we  ascended  a  ridge 
which  brought  in  view  an  extensive  and  barren  plain,  bounded 
on  all  sides  by  lofty  mountains.  To  the  westward  we  perceived 
a  range  which  extended  from  north  to  south,  and  which  ap 
peared  to  have  frequent  breaks  in  it. 

In  the  afternoon,  we  arrived  at  the  Aqua  Escarbada,  where 
we  expected  to  have  to  dig  for  water ;  but  the  ground  had  been 
so  deeply  excavated,  that  a  running  spring  had  been  reached. 

Shortly  before  reaching  this  place,  we  found  on  the  road-side 
the  remains  of  an  American,  with  the  mark  of  a  rifle-ball  in 
his  skull.  From  papers  which  were  scattered  around,  we  ascer 
tained  that  he  was  a  Mormon  on  an  exploring  expedition,  and 
his  buckskin  garments  not  having  been  wet  by  rain,  proved 
that  he  had  been  killed  this  season.  Day's  travel,  25  miles ; 
total,  1,608  miles. 

August  14.  Twelve  miles  from  the  Escarbada,  the  road 
makes  a  sudden  bend  to  the  westward,  and  ascends  a  steep 
ridge,  from  the  top  of  which  a  magnificent,  but  solemn  and 
dreary  view  presented  itself.  Four  ranges  of  mountains,  over 
topping  each  other,  extended  from  north  to  south,  and  bounded 
the  western  horizon  ;  to  the  eastward  was  spread  a  wide  extent 
of  countn^,  which  offered,  in  every  direction,  the  same  absence 


PASSAGE  OF  THE  DESERT.  105 

of  timber,  and  of  almost  all  vegetation.  The  solitude  was 
unrelieved  by  the  song  of  bird  or  the  chirp  of  insect ;  the 
mournful  murmur  of  the  breeze,  as  it  swept  over  the  desert, 
was  the  only  sound  that  broke  the  silence.  In  many  places,  a 
deceptive  mirage  spread  fictitious  lakes  and  spectral  groves  to 
our  view,  which  a  puff  of  wind,  or  a  change  in  our  position, 
suddenly  dissolved. 

A  rapid  descent  down  a  sinuous  ravine,  from  two  to  three 
miles  in  length,  brought  us  to  the  sink  in  the  plain,  where  is 
found  the  Ojo  de  Archilete  (Archilete's  Spring),  at  some  dis 
tance  from  which  are  many  small  willows,  but  in  its  immediate 
vicinity  there  is  a  total  absence  of  shade ;  the  water  is  clear  and 
cool,  but  slightly  brackish.  A  cruel  tragedy,  heroically  avenged 
by  Kit  Carson  and  Alexander  Godey,  and  recorded  by  Fre"- 
mont,  occurred  here  in  1844,  and  has  rendered  this  spot  memo 
rable  ;  we  found  near  the  spring  the  skull  of  an  Indian,  killed 
perhaps  in  that  affray.  Day's  travel,  22  miles ;  whole  distance, 
1,630  miles. 

August  15.  A  ride  of  five  miles  brought  us  to  the  Amargosa 
(Bitter  Creek),  a  ravine  containing  a  scanty  supply  of  warm, 
fetid,  and  nauseating  water,  in  a  succession  of  holes.  We 
encamped  at  the  foot  of  a  rock  on  its  eastern  side,  where  a  slen 
der  brackish  spring  barely  supplied  our  wants.  The  valley,  or 
broad  ravine,  through  which  the  Amargosa,  during  the  rainy 
season,  is  for  a  few  miles  a  running  stream,  winds  with  a  gene 
ral  course  from  southeast  to  northwest,  and  is  hemmed  in  by 
steep  black  and  rocky  hills. 

The  second  Jornada  across  the  desert  commences  at  the 
Amargosa,  and  ends  at  the  Agua  del  Tio  Meso  (the  Spring  of 
Uncle  Meso).  It  is  fifty  miles  in  length,  and  we  anticipated 
much  toil  and  suffering  in  crossing  it.  "We  endeavored  to. 
guard  against  the  loss  of  our  mules  from  hunger,  by  laying  in 
a  small  supply  of  green  reeds  and  mesquit  beans,  the  only 
forage,  except  salt  grass,  that  could  be  obtained  here  ;  and,  not 
expecting  to  find  water  the  whole  distance,  all  our  canteens 
were  filled. 

We  commenced  this  dreary  journey  at  2  P.  M.     The  heat 

was  intense,  aad,  instead  of  diminishing  as  the  sun  descended,. 

it  became  more  oppressive.     For  twelve  miles  the  road  was 

over  deep  sand,  into  which  the  mules  sank  above  their  fetlocks. 

8 


106  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

In  fifteen  miles,  we  diverged  to  the  left  across  a  spur  of  rocky 
hills,  the  road  leading  through  a  ravine,  where,  much  to  our 
surprise,  we  discovered  the  remains  of  houses,  rastres  (Mexican 
quartz  crushers),  and  all  the  appliances  of  gold  mining.  These 
we  subsequently  ascertained  were  the  Salt  Spring  Gold  Mines, 
where  a  fortune  had  been  sunk  by  men  who  were  sufficiently 
deluded  or  sanguine  to  abandon  the  rich  mines  of  California, 
travel  across  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  of  desert,  and  live 
upwards  of  twelve  months  in  a  spot  so  desolate  and  forlorn  that 
there  is  actually  not  sufficient  vegetation  to  keep  a  goat  from 
starvation.  We  here  found  two  springs,  one  sulphurous  and 
nauseating,  the  other  brackish.  The  canteens  were  replenished, 
but  it  was  impossible  to  water  the  mules. 

August  16.  The  heat  increased  as  we  advanced  into  the  desert, 
and  most  of  the  party  had  divested  themselves  of  the  greater  part 
of  their  clothing.  The  guns,  which  we  carried  across  the  pum 
mels  of  our  saddles,  were  hot  to  the  touch ;  and,  to  add  to  our 
annoyance  and  suffering,  the  wind,  ladened  with  an  impalpable 
sand,  blew  fiercely  from  the  southward,  feeling  as  if  issuing  from 
the  mouth  of  a  furnace,  and  obliterating  in  many  places  all  traces 
of  the  road.  The  mules,  already  jaded  by  travelling  across  the 
sandy  plain,  went  slowly  along,  their  heads  drooping  to  the 
ground.  The  pale  moon,  occasionally  overshadowed  by  clouds, 
threw  a  ghastly  light  over  the  desert,  and  skeletons  of  animals 
glistening  in  her  beams,  strewed  the  way,  adding  horror  to  the 
scene. 

Shortly  before  dawn  we  entered  some  hills  to  the  westward, 
where  the  heat  was  less  intense.  Three  of  the  mules  were  un 
able  to  go  farther,  and  their  saddles  and  packs  were  placed  on 
other  animals,  and  men  left  with  them,  together'  with  some 
reeds  and  beans  and  a  small  supply  of  water.  We  were  now  all 
on  foot,  our  animals  having  barely  sufficient  strength  to  carry 
their  saddles.  At  daylight  we  began  to  scatter,  and  those  who 
could  go  in  advance  did  so,  for  our  thirst  was  beginning  to  be 
intolerable.  It  was  not  until  10  A.  M.,  after  twenty  hours  of 
continuous  march,  completely  prostrated  with  heat,  toil,  hunger, 
and  thirst,  that  we  reached  the  Agua  del  Tio  Meso. 

This  camping  ground  (which  is  called  on  the  maps  Agua  del 
Tomaso)  has  two  small  pools  fed  by  tiny  springs.  The  water 
in  the  pools  is  only  fit  for  animals,  and  that  in  the  springs  we 


PASSAGE  OF  THE  DESERT.  107 

found  barely  drinkable;  the  grass  was  scanty  and  salt;  but 
when  mules  are  starving,  they  are  not  particular  in  their  choice 
of  food. 

The  men  who  had  been  left  with  the  mules  joined  us  late  in 
the  afternoon  ^  they  had  suffered  much,  but  brought  in  all  the 
animals.  Poor  Pite  was  not  the  last  one  in;  his  thirst  was 
dreadful,  and  when  he  reached  the  spring  he  threw  himself  on 
the  ground  and  drank  to  repletion. 

This  spring  is  named  after  an  old  Mexican  called  Meso,  who 
was  styled  Tio,  or  uncle,  on  account  of  his  age.  He  discovered 
it  when  he  and  his  party  were  nearly  perishing  with  thirst. 
Their  happy  deliverance  was  celebrated  by  a  great  feast ;  he 
washed  and  dressed  himself,  and  rambled  about  the  place  sing 
ing  until  he  fell  dead,  killed  by  a  stroke  of  apoplexy.  Two 
peons,  abandoned  on  the  desert  by  their  master,  reached  this 
spring  after  their  party  had  left  for  the  Mohaveh.  Unable  to 
proceed  farther,  they  both  died  of  starvation,  and  the  next  tra 
vellers  who  encamped  here,  found  their  skeletons  locked  in 
each  other's  embrace,  as  if  they  had  expired  in  the  act  of  de 
vouring  one  another. 

These  painful  associations,  together  with  the  utterly  desolate 
appearance  of  all  around,  cast  a  gloom  over  our  spirits ;  and 
we  could  not  raise  them,  as  old  Tio  Meso  did,  by  a  feast ;  for 
all.we  had  that  day  was  a  couple  of  spoonsful  of  boiled  pinole. 
The  road  across  the  Jornada  is  good,  with  the  exception  of  the 
first  twelve  miles,  where  it  is  sandy.  The  only  vegetation  that 
I  noticed  was  artemisia,  on  the  plains,  and  mesquit  and  dry 
greasewood  among  the  hills.  Day's  march,  55  miles;  whole 
distance,  1,685  miles. 

August  17.  During  the  night  we  had  a  heavy  storm;  the 
howling  wind,  blowing  from  the  desert,  was  hot  and  filled  with 
sand,  and  the  rain  fell  in  large  drops,  without  refreshing 
the  air. 

The  Agua  del  Tio  Meso  is  an  oasis ;  for,  although  a  wretched 
spot,  it  is  the  only  resting-place  in  the  desert  between  the 
Amargosa  and  the  Eiver  Mohaveh.  We  were  glad  to  leave  it, 
at  4  A.  M.  Two  of  the  mules  soon  showed  signs  of  failing, 
and  remained  on  the  road  in  charge  of  one  of  the  Mexicans. 
We  rested  for  a  few  minutes  at  10  A.  M.  to  breakfast,  having 
filled  our  canteens  at  Tio  Meso's  spring.  •  The  Delaware  had 


108  CENTRAL  EOUTE  TO*  THE  PACIFIC. 

killed  a  rabbit,  the  first  of  any  game  that  we  had  seen  for  a 
long  time ;  but  we  left  it  on  the  road,  with  some  water,  for  the 
Mexican,  as  we  feared  that  he  might  be  delayed  until  late. 

The  desert  retained  its  level  and  monotonous  character  until 
we  reached  Mohaveh  Eiver,  at  7  P.  M.,  our  animals  almost 
perishing  from  hunger  and  thirst. 

The  sandy  soil  through  which  the  Mohaveh  flows  absorbs 
nearly  all  its  water,  and  where  we  struck  it  it  was  no  longer  a 
running  stream.  Grass,  however,  was  everywhere  abundant, 
together  with  a  thick  growth  of  willows,  reeds,  and  mesquit 
bushes,  interlaced  with  grape-vines ;  and  in  some  places  there 
were  beautiful  groves  of  cotton  woods. 

All  our  troubles  as  regarded  a  scarcity  of  water  and  grass 
were  now  at  an  end,  and  from  this  point  our  journey  was  over 
a  level  country,  offering  no  impediment  whatever  to  a  good 
road  as  far  as  the  settlements  in  California.  Except  on  the  edge 
of  the  river,  however,  the  land  was  barren  and  unproductive, 
offering  no  point  fit  for  settlement. 

Mr.  Beale  and  myself  had  intended  on  reaching  the  Mohaveh 
to  have  gone  in  advance  of  our  people ;  but  we  could  not  leave 
them  in  their  starving  condition.  It  was  also  our  intention  to 
have  selected  two  or  three  of  the  men  to  accompany  us  across* 
the  desert  between  the  Mohaveh  and  Walker's  Pass,  in  the 
Sierra  Nevada ;  but  we  found  that  of  all  our  animals  there  were 
not  five  that  could  travel  over  twenty  miles  a  day ;  and,  as  the  ' 
intervening  country  was  entirely  destitute  of  water  and  grass, 
we  were  compelled  reluctantly  to  relinquish  this  object. 

The  Mexican  left  with  the  mules  arrived  at  11  P.  M.,  having 
remained  faithfully  by  them  until  he  brought  them  in.  We  thus 
crossed  this  desert  without  abandoning  a  single  animal,  which 
is,  I  believe,  almost  unprecedented.  Day's  travel,  30  miles ; 
whole  distance,  1,715  miles. 

August  18.  We  allowed  our  mules  to  rest  until  the  afternoon 
before  we  proceeded  up  the  Mohaveh.  Its  course  is  from  the 
west  through  a  broad  level  plain,  bounded  on  either  side  by 
lofty  mountains.  Its  water  increased  as  we  ascended  it,  and  we 
found  several  large  ponds  well  stocked  with  fish.  Day's  travel, 
8  miles ;  total,  1,723  miles. 

August  19.  The  road  was  through  heavy  sand,  and  often  left 
the  river  at  a  distance  of  two  miles.  We  encamped  at  noon 


PASSAGE  OF  THE  DESERT.  109 

near  a  large  and  deep  pond  of  very  cool  and  clear  water,  alive 
with  fish,  principally  mullets,  some  of  which  were  large.  We 
had  just  finished  our  allowance  of  pinole,  when  the  Delaware 
rode  into  camp  with  a  splendid  antelope  lashed  behind  his  sad 
dle,  and  reported  that  he  had  shot  another,  which  was  imme 
diately  sent  for.  As  the  question  of  starvation  was  now  set  at 
rest,  it  was  determined  that  Mr.  Beale  and  myself  and  two  of 
the  men  should  proceed  as  rapidly  as  our  mules  could  travel, 
whilst  the  remainder  of  the  party  were  to  follow  us  by  easy 
stages  to  the  settlements.  Day's  travel,  19  miles ;  whole  dis 
tance,  1,742  miles. 

August  20.  Accompanied  by  the  Delaware  and  Harry  Young, 
we  started  in  advance  of  the  party,  and  before  noon  had  ridden 
twenty  miles  up  the  right  bank  of  the  Mohaveh.  Its  bottom 
was  covered  in  many  places  with  a  thick  undergrowth,  and  oc 
casionally  by  large  groves  of  cottonwood,  and  bounded  on  the 
south  by  high  and  rugged  hills.  The  weather  was  pleasant, 
with  a  breeze  from  the  westward. 

Where  we  crossed  the  Mohaveh  it  was  a  rapid  stream,  twenty- 
five  yards  in  breadth  and  one  foot  in  depth,  but  its  water  was 
too  warm  to  be  drinkable.  Passed  several  fine  meadows  near 
the  river,  and  saw  bands  of  antelopes,  also  hares  andvpartridges. 
After  a  rest  of  seven  hours  we  resumed  our  journey,  the  road 
leading  up  to  an  extensive  plain,  thickly  covered  with  cedars 
and  pines,  intermingled  with  palmyra  cactus  and  aloes.  It  forks 
about  ten  miles  from  the  river.  The  lefthand  fork,  which  we 
took,  follows  the  old  Spanish  trail,  whilst  the  other,  which  had 
been  recently  opened  by  the  Mormons,  makes  a  bend  to  avoid 
a  rough  portion  of  country.  They  both  join  again  in  the  Cajon 
Pass.  We  travelled  until  IIP.  M.,  when  we  rested  under  the 
cedars  on  the  plain,  where  we  found  dry  bunch  grass,  but  no 
water.  Day's  travel,  40  miles ;  whole  distance,  1,782  miles. 

August  21.  For  the  last  time  the  cry  of  "catch  up"  was 
heard,  and  we  saddled  our  mules  before  dawn,  impatient  to 
reach  our  journey's  end.  On  approaching  the  mountains*, 
which  extended  between  us  and  the  valley  of  Los  Angeles,  the 
country  presented  a  more  broken  appearance.  After  travelling 
six  miles,  we  commenced  descending  the  Pacific  slope,  and 
soon  after  reached  the  head  waters  of  the  Santa  Anna,  a  creek 
rising  to  the  eastward  of  the  mountains,  and  which  finds  its 


110  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

way  through  the  Cajon  Pass  tp  the  Pacific  Ocean,  south  of  San 
Pedro. 

We  entered  this  pass,  arid  the  most  magnificent  scenery  pre 
sented  itself  to  our  eyes.  Around  us  were  lofty  mountains, 
their  summits  clothed  with  pines  and  their  base  with  chimsal, 
mansanita,  dwarf  oaks,  and  aloes.  In  the  valley  were  numerous 
clusters  of  sycamore,  which  attains  here  a  large  size,  and  is  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  trees  in  the  country.  The  ground  was 
covered  with  innumerable  tracks  of  grizzly  bears,  and  the 
Delaware  kept  a  keen  lookout  for  the  rough-coated  gentry. 
During  our  journey,  he  had  killed  at  least  one  specimen  of  each 
species  of  game  to  be  found  in  the  region  which  we  had  tra 
versed,  and  he  was  anxious  to  have  an  encounter  with  the 
largest  and  fiercest  of  them  all,  the  mighty  grizzly  of  California; 
but  he  was  disappointed ;  although  our  men,  in  coming  through 
this  pass  a  few  days  later,  had  a  desperate  fight  with  a  bear, 
which  they  finally  overcame. 

We  issued  from  the  mountains  at  noon,  when  the  beautiful 
valley  of  San  Bernardino,  with  its  stupendous  mountain,  broke 
upon  our  view.  Never  did  so  beautiful  a  sight  gladden  the 
eyes  of  weary  travellers ;  and,  having  been  in  the  saddle  since 
dawn,  we  turned  our  jaded  mules  into  a  rich  meadow,  where 
the  grass  reached  to  their  knees,  and  we  rested  under  the  shade 
of  a  grove  of  sycamores. 

Leaving  the  valley  of  San  Bernardino  behind  us,  we  directed 
our  course  northwest  in  the  direction  of  Los  Angeles.  We 
travelled  steadily  until  nightfall  without  perceiving  any  signs 
of  habitations,  though  our  hopes  were  constantly  kept  alive  by 
fresh  tracks  of  men  and  cattle ;  finally,  at  nine  o'clock,  when 
we  were  on  the  point  of  dismounting,  our  weary  beasts  being 
scarcely  able  to  lift  their  feet,  we  were  saluted  by  the  cheering 
bark  of  a  dog,  and  in  a  few  minutes  found  ourselves  in  the 
centre  of  a  large  cluster  of  buildings,  -and  welcomed  in  the 
most  friendly  manner  to  Cocomongo  Eanchio,  by  the  Mexican 
proprietor.  Day's  travel,  35  miles ;  whole  distance,  1,817 
miles. 

August  22.  Our  arrival  at  the  Eanchio  de  Cocomongo  will 
long  be  a  green  spot  in  our  memories ;  and  it  was  a  pleasant 
sight  to  us  to  witness  the  satisfaction  of  our  travel-worn  mules, 


PASSAGE  OF  THE  DESERT.  Ill 

in  passing  from  unremitting  toil  and  scanty  food  to  complete 
rest  and  abundant  nourishment. 

"We  obtained  fresh  horses,  and  a  gallop  of  thirty -five  miles 
through  a  rich  and  settled  country  brought  us  to  the  city  of 
Los  Angeles,  where  every  kindness  and  attention  was  shown  to 
us  by  Mr.  "Wilson,  Indian  Agent,  and  his  accomplished  lady. 

"We  had  been  given  up  for  lost,  and  several  parties  had  gone 
in  search  of  us.  Some  of  our  friends  had  spent  six  weeks  in 
Walker's  Pass,  where  they  expected  us  to  arrive,  and  had  kept 
up  fires  by  night  and  smokes  by  day  on  a  point  visible  at  a 
long  distance  in  the  desert,  to  guide  us  in  case  we  should  have 
lost  our  way.  Day's  march,  35  miles;  total  distance  from 
"Westport,  Missouri,  to  Los  Angeles,  California,  1,852  miles. 

The  remainder  of  our  party  arrived  two  days  later,  and  thus, 
without  serious  accident  to  any  of  the  men,  and  with  the  loss 
of  only  three  of  the  mules,  we  accomplished  the  distance  from 
Westport  to  Los  Angeles  in  exactly  one  hundred  days.  Some 
of  the  party,  however,  had  travelled  seven  hundred  and  fifteen 
miles  more,  in  going  to  Taos  from  Grand  Eiver  and  in  returning. 


RESUME.' 

CENTRAL    ROUTE    FROM   WESTPORT,    MISSOURI, 
TO   LOS   ANGELES,   CALIFORNIA. 


SECTION"    I. 
From  Westportj  Missouri,  to  Council  Grove,  122  miles. 

THIS  portion  of  the  route  is  over  a  broad  wagon-road,  excel 
lent  in  summer,  but  heavy  rains  render  it  impassable  at  certain 
points,  where  slight  bridges  would  obviate  all  difficulties. 

Bridges  are  required  at  Bull  Creek,  One  Hundred  and 
Ten,  Dragoon  Creek,  Council  Grove,  and  two  other  points. 
Trains  are  sometimes  detained  at  these  runs  for  weeks  by 
heavy  rains.  A  few  thousand  dollars  ($3,000)  would  be  suffi 
cient  to  render  this  road  as  good  as  any  in  the  States,  at  all 
seasons. 

Grass  along  this  section  is  abundant,  and  camping  places 
frequent. 

At  Council  Grove,  there  is  a  large,  well-furnished  store, 
where  a  constant  supply  of  everything  required  for  the  road  is 
kept.  Also,  a  good  farrier  and  blacksmith.  Parties  from  New 
Mexico  can  here  obtain  a  refit  at  prices  much  under  those  they 
have  to  pay  in  New  Mexico. 

The  country  around  Council  Grove  is  rich  in  pasturage,  and 
well  timbered.  When  the  Indian  titles  are  extinguished,  and 
a  territorial  government  established,  this  country  will  be  imme 
diately  and  thickly  settled. 


114  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

l 


SECTION    II. 
From  Council  Grove  to  Fort  Atkinson,  Arkansas  River,  239  miles. 

The  face  of  the  country  is  level.  It  is  all  prairie,  gently 
undulating.  Cotton  wood  Creek,  Little  Arkansas,  and  Pawnee 
Fork,  require  bridging ;  with  these  exceptions,  the  road  is  firm 
and  good. 

Except  at  three  or  four  points,  the  country  is  destitute  of 
timber.  Pasturage  good. 

SECTION    III. 

From  Fort  Atkinson  (Arkansas  River)  to  mouth  of  Huerfano  River, 

247  miles. 

The  country  is  a  rolling  prairie,  and  its  surface  more  uneven, 
with  a  gradual  ascent  to  the  westward  of  about  seven  feet  to 
the  mile. 

No  timber  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Arkansas  (it  having  all 
been  destroyed)  until  we  reach  the  Big  Timbers,  where  there 
is  an  extensive  grove  of  cottonwoods.  From  thence  to  the 
Huerfano  there  is  an  abundance  of  timber. 

The  soil  is  dry  and  hard,  and  the  road  excellent.  The  grass 
is  more  rank  in  the  river  bottom,  and  scantier  on  the  plains. 
Good  camping  grounds  are  to  be  found  every  few  miles. 

SECTION    IV. 
From  the  mouth  of  the  Huerfano  to  Fort  Massachusetts,  85  miles. 

A  gently  undulating  plain  leads  from  the  Arkansas  to  the 
foot  of  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  Mountains  and  the  Sierra  Mojada, 
from  which  the  Huerfano  issues.  '  It  is  covered  with  good 
bunch  grass,  and  the  river  bottom  is  well  timbered,  and  affords 
excellent  pasturage. 

The  Huerfano,  at  the  season  that  we  crossed  it  (early  in  June), 
was  swollen  by  melting  snows,  but  we  had  no  difficulty  in  find 
ing  a  good  ford. 

These  plains  abound  with  game — deer,  antelopes,  and  hares ; 
and,  near  the  river,  wild  turkeys. 


KESUME.  115 

The  Huerfano  enters  a  canon  about  thirty-four  miles  from 
its  mouth,  through  which  it  runs  for  about  ten  miles  ;  and  both 
sides  of  the  river  are  here  much  broken  by  gullies.  These 
may  be  avoided  by  keeping  at  a  distance  of  from  two  to  three 
miles  from  it.  After  passing  the  canon,  the  best  road  is  near 
the  stream.  j£.  Jhjnarv 

Following  the  river,  the  road  enters  the  Sangre  de  Cristo 
Mountains,  about  forty -three  miles  above  its  mouth. 

The  best  pass  through  these  mountains  is  Eoubideau's.  Its 
elevation  is  so  moderate,  that  some  sandhills  in  San  Luis  Val 
ley,  of  moderate  elevation,  can  be  perceived  some  time  before 
reaching  the  pass.  It  is  obstructed  with  dead  timber,  which  is 
the  principal  difficulty  to  overcome.  Another  pass,  traversed 
by  travellers  on  horseback,  crosses  an  elevated  ridge  near  the 
head  waters  of  Sangre  de  Cristo,  which  flows  west  into  San  Luis 
Valley,  and  down  this  to  Utah  Creek. 

Eich  pasturage,  timber,  and  water  abound  all  through  these 
mountains,  and  they  teem  with  game. 

SECTION  v. 
From  Fort  Massachusetts  to  Coocliatope  Pass,  124  miles. 

Eighty-one  miles  of  this  distance  is  over  a  perfectly  level 
country.  The  road  leaves  Utah  Creek,  and  in  twenty-five  miles, 
course  N.  W.,  descends  into  the  bottom  lands  of  the  Del  Norte. 
It  then  crosses  numerous  sloughs,  until  it  reaches  a  point  30 
miles  beyond,  where  it  leaves  the  river,  and  goes  in  a  N.  by  W. 
course  for  the  entrance  of  Sahwatch  Valley,  and  up  that  to  the 
entrance  of  Coochatope  Pass.  After  entering  this  pass,  for 
seven  miles  the  ascent  is  very  gradual ;  it  then  becomes  more 
rapid  until  the  dividing  ridge  is  crossed.  The  sloughs  of  the 
Del  Norte  can  be  avoided  by  a  detour  to  the  right. 

San  Luis  Valley  is  quite  level,  and  from  twenty  to  twenty -five 
miles  in  breadth.  Sahwatch  Valley  is  five  miles  broad  at  its 
entrance,  and  gradually  narrows  to  one  mile,  and  is  also  per 
fectly  level.  The  valley  of  the  Coochumpah,  in  which  is  the 
Puerto  de  los  Cibolas  (Coochatope),  is  closely  hemmed  in  by 
hills,  and  its  ascent  is  scarcely  perceptible  until  we  reach  with 
in  a  couple  of  miles  of  the  divide. 

Good  pasturage  is  found  on  numerous  points  on  the  Del 


116  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

Norte ;  scanty  grass  in  San  Luis  Valley,  except  at  the  crossing 
of  Garita  Creek,  fourteen  miles  from  the  Del  Norte,  and  at  a 
spring,  about  ten  miles  north  of  the  Garita,  at  both  of  which  good 
pasturage  is  abundant.  Throughout  Sa watch  and  Coochumpah 
valleys,  abundant  grass,  timber,  and  water  are  found. 

Coochatope  Pass  is  much  obstructed  by  trees  and  underwood, 
and  it  had  only  been  travelled  by  Indians  and  Indian  traders 
with  pack  mules,  at  the  time  of  our  passing  through;  since 
then  two  wagon  trains  have  gone  through. 

The  Carnero  Pass  leads  from  San  Luis  Valley  to  Grand  Eiver. 
Its  principal  obstruction  is  a  quantity  of  dead  timber  in  one  of 
the  valleys,  which  might  soon  be  removed  by  burning.  Grass, 
wood,  and  water  as  abundant  as  in  the  Coochatope  Pass.  The 
trail  to  the  Carnero  leaves  the  Del  Norte  about  eighteen  miles 
above  where  that  to  the  Coochatope  leaves  it,  and  joins  the 
trail  through  the  latter,  near  the  Eio  Jaroso  (Willow  Creek). 

SECTION  vi. 
From  Coochatope  Pass  to  Grand  River,  134  miles. 

This  section  passes  over  the  mountainous  country  comprised 
within  the  Sahwatch  range.  The  road  is  entirely  practicable 
for  wagons.  A  more  level  road  makes  a  detour  of  eighty 
miles. 

Early  in  summer,  the  Coochatope,  Estrendoso,  Jaroso,  Eio  cle 
la  Laguna,  and  the  ISTawaquasitch,  all  except  the  first,  rising  in 
the  Sierra  de  la  Plata,  and  crossing  the  road  at  right  angles,  are 
so  swollen,  as  to  be  impassable  for  wagons  without  much  trouble ; 
bridges,  for  which  abundant  timber  grows  on  their  banks,  are 
required  over  them. 

Timber,  grass,  and  water  are  abundant  all  through  this  range ; 
about  twenty  miles  from  Grand  Eiver,  the  country  becomes 
level,  and  is  destitute  of  pasturage,  except  near  the  Eiver  Un- 
compagre,  down  which  the  road  goes  until  reaching  Grand  Eiver. 

SECTION  VII. 
From  Grand  River  to  Green  River,  154  miles. 

All  level  country,  and  many  good  camping  grounds  at  easy 
distances.  Timber  near  the  streams. 


RESUME.  117 

Grand  Eiver  is  fordable  from  August  till  April;  at  other 
times  it  is  swollen  by  melting  snows.  The  same  may"  be  said 
of  the  Avonkarea,  though  in  some  years  its  waters  do  not  fall 
sufficiently  to  be  fordable.  I  was  told  that  Green  River  is 
never  fordable,  but  doubt  the  correctness  of  this  information, 
and  believe  that  in  most  years,  from  August  to  early  in  the 
spring,  animals  can  wade  across  it.  But  for  wagons,  these  three 
streams  should  have  ferry  boats. 

SECTION  VIII. 

From  Green  River  to  Mormon  Settlements  near  Las  Vegas  de  Santa 
Clara,  Utah  Territory,  242  miles. 

Eighty-six  miles  are  across  barren  plains,  occasionally  seamed 
with  dry  watercourses.  Good  camping  places  are  found  at 
easy  distances,  with  grass,  water,  and  wood. 

For  one  hundred  and  fifty-six  miles  the  trail  leads  through 
successive  ranges  of  the  Wahsatch  Mountains.  All  these  ranges 
are  separated  by  broad  valleys,  watered  by  abundant  streams, 
and  smaller  ones  give  access  to  and  unite  the  larger  ones. 

Throughout  these  mountains  grass,  water,  and  timber  are 
abundant ;  game  is  scanty. 

r 

%  SECTION  IX. 

From  Settlements  near  Las  Vegas  de  Santa  Clara  to  Mohaveh 
River,  374  miles. 

This  section  is  over  a  part  of  or  near  the  Great  Salt  Lake 
Basin;  and  in  it  are  twojornadas  (long  distance  between  waters); 
the  first  is  45,  the  second  55  miles  in  length. 

At  the  Mormon  settlements,  beef,  flour,  and  cornmeal  can  be 
purchased  at  reasonable  rates.  Groceries  are  scarce  and  dear. 

With  the  exception  of  the  jornadas,  camping  grounds  are 
found  along  this  route  at  short  distances,  on  the  Vegas  de  Santa 
Clara,  Eio  Santa  Clara,  Eio  de  la  Virgen,  Muddy  Creek,  Vegas 
del  Gaetan,  Ojo  de  Archilete,  and  Amargosa  Creek. 

In  some  of  these  places  the  grass  is  salt  and  wiry,  and  affords 
little  nourishment.  Mesquit  bushes,  which  grow  on  all  the 


118  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

waters  of  the  desert,  bear  a  nutritious  bean  on  which  animals 
feed  greedily. 

The  only  game  is  sage  rabbits. 

SECTION  x. 
From  Afohaveh  River  to  Los  Angeles,  137  miles. 

The  road  now  follows  up  the  Mohaveh,  and  near  it  is  good 
pasturage,  and  timber.  Water  is  first  found  in  holes ;  higher 
up  there  is  running  water. 

After  leaving  the  river,  the  road  crosses  an  elevated  plain 
covered  with  small  trees  and  good  bunch  grass,  but  no  water  is 
found  until  arriving  on  the  head  waters  of  the  Santa  Anna,  a 
creek  flowing  into  the  Pacific,  a  distance  of  about  25  miles.  A 
rough  wagon-road  leads  down  this  creek,  through  the  Cajon 
Pass  into  the  valley  of  San  Bernardino,  from  which  a  broad, 
well-beaten  track  leads  to  Los  Angeles. 


RESUME. 


119 


ITINERARY  OF  THE  CENTRAL  ROUTE. 
From  Westport,  Missouri,  to  Los  Angeles,  California. 


DATE. 

CAMPS. 

IST- 
NCE. 

ISTANCE 
BOM  W. 

REMARKS. 

May  15 

nd.  Creek 

12 

ottonwoods,  willows,  good  grass. 

"     16 

ull  Creek       • 

23 

35 

ome  timber  ;  good  grass  and  water. 

"     16 

arfish  Creek 

22 

57 

earest  wood,  half  mile  ;  water  and 

grass. 

"     17 

110" 

23 

80 

lunning  stream;  timber,  good  grass. 

'     17 

)ragoon  Creek 

12 

92 

"         fine  timber  and  grass. 

•     18 

tream 

10 

102 

ood  water  ;  timber  and  grass. 

'     18 

it 

4 

106 

«              «              « 

'     18 

follow 

6 

112 

Water  in  holes  ;  grass. 

'     18 

COUNCIL  GROVE 

10 

122 

ettlement  ;       abundant      timber  ; 

grass  ;  water. 

«     19 

I  olio  w 

17 

139 

Water  ;  grass  and  timber  abundant. 

"     10 

jost  Spring 

15 

154 

Good  water,  not  abundant;  grass; 

no  wood.  * 

"    20 

]ottonwood  Creek 

16 

170 

jarge  timber  ;  running  water  ;  good 

pasturage. 

«     20 

'urkey  Creek 

19 

189 

'lenty  of  water  and  grass  ;  no  wood. 

"     21 

Pool 

12 

201 

Grass  and  water  :  small  bushes. 

"     21 

jittle  Arkansas 

18 

219 

Good  timber;  grass  and  water. 

"     21 

Owl  Creek 

10 

229 

timber  and  grass;   no  water,  ex 

cept  after  rains. 

«     22 

3reat  Bend  of  Ark. 

35 

264 

Wood  ;  grass  and  water. 

«     22 

Walnut  Creek 

7 

271 

«             « 

«     23 

Pawnee  Fork 

31 

302 

Well  wooded  ;  grass  and  water. 

•<*<     23 

'ond 

9 

311 

Good  pasturage;  water;  no  wood; 

plenty  "buffalo  chips." 

"     24 

it 

25 

336 

iVater;  grass. 

"     24 

Arkansas  River 

20 

356 

Water  ;  grass  ;  small  bushes. 

«     2-r 

?ORT  ATKINSON 

5 

361 

«          «                << 

"     26 

1st  Crossing   of   S 

10 

371 

«          «                « 

F6  trail 

"     26 

2d         "            " 

5 

376 

«          <«                « 

"     26 

Camp  on  Ark. 

20 

396 

«t          «                << 

"    27 

" 

20 

416 

"       coarse  grass  ;  no  wood. 

"     28 

[sland  on  Ark. 

19 

435 

"                  "            little  wood. 

"    28 

Chouteau's  Island 

12 

447 

"       coarse  rank  grass;   drift 

wood. 

"     2t 

Slough  of  Ark. 

28 

475 

"        wiry  grass;  no  wood. 

"     2 

Arkansas  River 

8 

483 

«               <>                   « 

"     3 

Big  Timbers 

20 

503 

"       coarse  grass  ;  large  timber. 

"     3 

Arkansas  River 

12 

515 

Good    water  ;      abundant    bottom 

grass  ;  timber. 

".    3 

Lower  Dry  Creek 

25 

540 

Scanty  dry  grass  ;  water  in  pools, 

warm;  wood. 

"     3 

BENT'S  FORT 

7 

547 

Bottom  grass;  river  Arkansas;  wood. 

"     3 

Upper  Dry  Creek 

7 

554 

i.                   a                « 

"     3 

Pond 

6 

560 

Dry  bunch  grass  ;  water  ;  wood  near 

river. 

120  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

ITINERARY  OF  THE  CENTRAL  ROUTE— CONTINUED. 


DATE. 

CAMPS. 

DIST 
ANCE. 

DISTANCE 
FROM  W. 

REMARKS. 

June    1 

Below     mouth     of 

15 

575 

Bottom  grass  ;  water  ;  wood. 

Timpas 

"       1 

Timpas  Creek 

6 

580 

Water  in  holes,  slightly  brackish  ; 

good  grass  ;  wood. 

"       2 

HUERFANO  RIVER 

18 

598 

Water  ;  rich  grass  ;  timber. 

"      2 

" 

10 

608 

«             «                « 

"      3 

Pool 

24 

632 

Water  holes  ;  grass  ;  bushes. 

"       3 

Huerfano  River 

10 

642 

Water  ;  luxuriant  grass  ;  timber. 

«      4 

Rock  on  Cuchada  in 

20 

662 

«                 K                a 

Sangre  de  Cristo 

"      4 

SUMMIT  OF  SANGRE 

6 

668 

Water  in  springs  ;  luxuriant  grass  ; 

DE  CRISTO 

large  pines. 

"       5 

FORT  MASSACHU 

25 

693 

Excellent  water;    abundant  good 

SETTS 

pasturage  ;  timber. 

"     15 

Slough   on  Rio   del 

25 

718 

Stagnant     water;     coarse     grass; 

Norte 

bushes 

"     16 

Rio  del  Norte 

18 

736 

Good    water;     abundant    bottom 

grass;  trees. 

"     17 

« 

10 

746 

Good  water;  good  grass;  trees. 

"     17 

Rio  de  la  Garita 

14 

760 

"                  "           willows. 

"     17 

Spring 

10 

770 

"                  "           bushes. 

"     17 

Rincon  del  Sahwatch 

16 

786 

"                   "            trees. 

"     18 

Sahwatch  Valley 

16 

802 

"                  "            timber. 

"     18 

COOCHATOPE  GATE 

6 

808 

"                  "            wood. 

««     19 

Summit  of  Pass 

9 

817 

"                  "        large  timber. 

"     19 

Coochatope  Creek 

15 

832 

"                   "            trees. 

«     19 

Spring 

10 

842 

«                   «               « 

"    20 

Rivulet 

22 

864 

«                   «               « 

"    20 

Rio  Jaroso  (Willow 

5 

869 

«                  «               « 

Creek) 

"     20 

Spring 

7 

876 

«                  «               « 

"    21 

Rio    de    la   Laguna 

5 

881 

"                  "        large  timber. 

(Lake  Creek) 

"     21 

Spring 

4 

885 

«                  «               a 

"     22 

Rio     Nawaquasitch 

18 

903 

U                                     fl                              (t 

(Sheep-  tail  Creek) 

"     22 

Creek 

20 

923 

Water    in    holes;     scanty    grass; 

small  trees. 

«     23 

Rio  Uncompagre 

16 

939 

Water;  coarse  grass;  trees. 

"    23 

Mouth  of    the    Un 

12 

951 

«                  «                 « 

compagre 

July  18 

Cerenoquinti  Creek 

25 

976 

"        good  grass  ;  wood. 

"     19 

River  Avonkaria 

12 

988 

Coarse  grass;  timber. 

"    21 

Camp    1'Amoureux, 

'16 

1004 

Abundant    grass;     timber;    river 

on  Grand  River 

water. 

"     24 

Rio    Salad  o,   Grand 

10 

1014 

t(                                 U                                 f( 

River 

"     24 

Grand  River 

20 

1034 

(I                      «                       « 

"    23 

it 

15 

1049 

«                       tt                      It 

"    23 

Plain  betw'n  Grand 

21 

1070 

Scanty  grass  ;  no  wood  ;  no  water. 

and  Green  Rivers 

"     24 

Green    River,     left 

35 

1105 

Abundant  grass  ;  wood  ;  river  water. 

shore 

"     25 

Green   River,   right 

1 

1106 

«                «<                « 

shore 

RESUME.  121 

ITINERARY  OF  THE  CENTRAL  ROUTE— CONTINUED. 


DATE. 

CAMPS. 

DIST 
ANCE. 

DISTANCE 
FROM  W. 

REMARKS. 

July  26 

Green  River  Spring 

18 

1124 

Some   good   grass;    small  spring; 

good  timber. 

«     97 

San  Rafael  Creek 

38 

1162 

Good  pasturage  ;  small  trees  ;  good 

water. 

'     28 

Brook 

10 

1172 

«                                    <                                  « 

'     28  llio  del  Moro 

10 

1182 

«                  <                 it 

«    28 

Creek   in  Wahsatch 

10 

1192 

a                  <                 « 

Mountains 

<     29 

Llio  Salado 

15 

1207 

«                  <                 « 

'     29 

" 

15 

1222 

Coarse  grass;        '                " 

"     30 

Sevier      (Nicollet) 

21 

1243 

"                  '           ,     " 

River 

"     30 

Meadows 

4 

1247 

Luxuriant  grass  ;     bushes  ;     good 

water. 

"     30 

Sevier  River 

12 

1259 

Good  grass  ;  small  trees  ;  good  water. 

"     31 

M 

10 

1269 

Excellent  grass  ;     "               " 

"     31 

Rivulet,  affluent  to 

8 

1277 

"           large  trees;  " 

Sevier 

Aug.    1 

Junction   of    Sevier 

20 

1297 

"           small  trees;  " 

and  San  Pasqual 

Rivers 

"       1 

Summit  of  last  range 

16 

1313 

Excellent  grass  ;  bushes  ;  no  water 

of  Sahwatch  Mts. 

near. 

"      2 

PAEAGOONA     (Mor 

28 

1341 

Excellent  grass  ;  no  wood  near  ex 

mon  settlement) 

cept  bushes  ;  good  water. 

"      2 

PARAWAN           " 

4 

1345 

«                it                K 

"       3 

CEDAR     CITY,    1st, 

18 

1363 

Excellent  grass  ;  large  timber  ;  good 

Vega  de  Santa  Clara 

water. 

"      4 

2d,   Vega  de  Santa 

38 

1401 

Excellent  grass  ;   small  trees  ;  wa 

Clara 

ter  in  holes. 

"       5 

3d,         "       •  " 

12 

1413 

Excellent  grass  ;  small  trees  ;  run 

ning  water. 

«       5 

Santa  Clara  Creek 

16 

1429 

Good  grass;  large  trees;  running 

water. 

"       6 

«           a 

10 

1439 

Grass  and  clover;  large  trees;  run 

ning  water. 

"      7 

Spring 

14 

1453 

Grass  ;  small  trees  ;  good  water. 

"      7 

llio  de  la  Virgen 

21 

1474 

Salt  grass;    trees;    warm,    turbid 

water. 

"       8 

M 

14 

1488 

Salt  grass;  mesquit  beans;  trees; 

turbid  water. 

"       8 

« 

15 

1503 

ft                                 1C                                 <« 

"       9 

« 

10 

1513 

«                       <c            •          « 

"       9 

Rio  Atascoso  (Mud 

8 

1521 

«                    «                    « 

dy  Creek) 

"     11 

Ojo  del  Gaetan 

45 

1566 

Good    pasturage;     bushes;     cool, 

(Jornada) 

running  water. 

"     12 

Vega  Quintana 

17 

1583 

Good  pasturage;  trees;  spring. 

"     13 

Agua  Escarbada 

25 

1608 

Grass  and   mesquit  beans;    small 

trees  ;  water  to  be  dug  for. 

«     14 

Ojo  de  Archilete 

22 

1630 

Good     pasturage;      bushes;     cool 

water. 

"     15 

Amargosa 

5 

1635 

Salt  grass  ;  mesquit  beans  ;  water 

in    pools,    bad:     small    spring, 

brackish  water,  under  rock. 

122  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

ITINERARY  OF  THE  CENTRAL  ROUTE— CONTINUED. 


DATE. 

CAMP3. 

DIST 
ANCE. 

DISTANCE 
FROM  W. 

REMARKS. 

Aug.  16 

Agua  del  Tio  Meso 

50 

1685 

Scanty  salt  grass;    small  bushes; 

(Jornada) 

bad,  scanty  water. 

"     17 

Monarch  River 

30 

1715 

Good  grass  ;  abundant  wood  ;  water 

in  holes. 

"     18 

«< 

8 

1723 

Good  grass;  large  trees;  water  in 

holes. 

'     19 

« 

19 

1742 

(t                       tt                      a 

«     20 

« 

20 

1762 

"                 "                running 

water. 

«    20 

Plain 

20 

1782 

Dry  bunch  grass  ;  cedars;  no  water. 

'    21 

Santa  Anna  Creek 

8 

1790 

Good  grass  ;  timber  ;  running  water. 

<     21 

Sycamore  Camp 

12 

1802 

Fine  grass;  large  timber;  springs. 

<     21 

Cocomongo  Ranch 

15 

1817 

"                   "               running 

water. 

«     22 

Los  ANGELES 

35 

1852 

APPENDIX. 


LETTER  FROM  MR.  CHARLES  "W. 

Published  in  the  National  Intelligencer  (Washington},  Nov.  7,  1853. 

FORT  MASSACHUSETTS  (N.  M.),  Aug.  28,  1853. 

HON.  T.  H.  BENTON  : — 

DEAR  SIR:  Knowing  that  you  feel  interested  in  the  middle 
route  for  the  great  Pacific  Railroad,  and  believing  that  any  in 
formation  in  regard  to  it  would  be  acceptable,  no  matter  how 
humble  the  source  from  which  it  comes,  I  have  determined  to 
state  what  I  know  about  it.  This  information  is  from  travelling 
the  route  just  behind  Captain  Gunnison.  I  left  Virginia  the 
first  of  April,  went  to  Missouri  and  Illinois  to  purchase  sheep 
for  the  California  market.  After  purchasing,  I  started  to  take 
them  by  Salt  Lake,  the  Humboldt  River,  &c.,  feeling  assured  that 
I  would  have  to  winter  at  Salt  Lake.  I  had  gotten  the  sheep  as 
far  as  St.  Joseph's,  (Mo.)  Having  some  business  in  St.  Louis,  I 
met  with  Captain  Gunnison,  and  learned  from  him  that  there 
was  a  better  route  by  way  of  Utah  Lake,  and  that  he  was  going 
to  open  it,  and  that,  from  what  he  knew  about  it,  it  would  be 
much  better  for  me  to  take  it.  After  thinking  a  good  deal 
over  it,  I  determined  to  take  it,  as  there  was  a  very  large 
number  of  stock  on  the  old  route,  and  a  good  prospect  of  get 
ting  to  California  this  season.  I  read  your  address  with  a 
great  deal  of  interest;  and,  feeling  assured  these  statements 
about  the  route  could  be  relied  on,  I  left  Missouri  at  Westport, 
on  the  18th  of  June,  with  a  large  number  of  sheep  and  some 
cows — Mr.  Crockett,  of  Virginia,  a  partner  with  me.  At 
Westport,  I  met  with  the  two  Mr.  Ross's,  of  Iowa,  with  their 
families,  going  the  old  route ;  they  also  determined  to  accom 
pany  me  the  new  route.  After  travelling  a  few  days,  I  fell  in 
with  the  two  Mr.  Burwells,  of  Franklin  City,  Virginia,  with  a 


124  APPENDIX. 

large  number  of  cattle,  who  also  were  persuaded  to  join  me. 
We  travelled  the  Santa  Fe  road  twenty-five  miles  above  Fort 
Atkinson,  keeping  on  the  well-beaten  track  to  thirty  miles 
above  Bent's  Old  Fort,  and  crossed  the  Arkansas  Eiver  at  the 
mouth  of  Apispah  Creek,  crossed  over  to  the  Huerfano,  up  that 
stream  about  twenty  miles,  and  crossed  the  Sierra  Blanca 
Mountains  through  Captain  Gunnison's  Pass,  about  twelve  miles 
south  of  Leroux's  Pass  to  this  fort.  The  distance  given  by 
Captain  Gunnison  is  693  miles  from  Westport,  Missouri. 

I  have  travelled  over  the  mountains  of  Virginia,  Penn 
sylvania,  and  Tennessee,  over  several  of  the  passes  of  the 
Sierra  Nevada  in  California,  and  I  have  never  seen  a  better  or 
more  easy  Pass  for  carriages  and  wagons  than  the  one  found 
by  Captain  Gunnison,  through  the  Sierra  Blanca  [Sangre  de 
Cristo]  just  opposite  to  Fort  Massachusetts,  and  distant  from  it 
fifteen  miles.  I  travelled  the  old  route  to  California  in  1849, 
and  can  speak  of  the  two  routes  from  actual  experience,  having 
gone  over  both  with  wagons.  I  look  upon  this  route  as  far 
superior,  and  feel  confident  that  as  soon  as  it  is  known  it  will  and 
must  be  the  great  thoroughfare  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific. 
On  this  route,  there  is  an  abundance  of  grass  and  water,  so 
much  that  stock  will  travel  and  keep  fat ;  the  large  majority  of 
our  sheep  are  as  fat  as  any  mutton  in  the  Philadelphia  or  Bal 
timore  market,  and  a  very  large. number  of  Mr.  Burwell's 
cattle  are  fine  beef;  and  I  have  never  seen  any  stock,  after 
having  travelled  so  far,  look  half  as  well.  Both  of  the  Mr. 
Ross's  have  carriages,  and  as  yet  nothing  has  in  the  least  given 
way.  I  can  say  without  fear  of  contradiction  that  this  is  one 
of  the  finest  natural  roads  in  the  world,  combining  everything 
necessary  to  sustain  stock ;  and  I  am  confident  that,  if  its  advan 
tages  are  fully  made  known  to  Congress,  it  will  be  adopted 
for  the  great  Pacific  Railroad.  On  this  line,  almost  the  entire 
route  can  be  settled ;  as  all  the  land  from  Missouri  to  Bent's 
Fort  is  rich  and  very  fertile,  equal  to  the  best  lands  of  Missouri 
and  Illinois,  and  no  land  can  beat  the  Sierra  Blanca  [Sangre  de 
Cristo  ?]  for  grass ;  even  to  the  very  summit  it  stands  as  thick 
as  the  best  meadows ;  many  acres  would  mow  at  least  four  tons 
per  acre.  Then  comes  the  large  and  beautiful  valley  of  San  Luis, 
said  to  be  one  of  the  most  fertile  in  New  Mexico ;  indeed,  fine 
land  is  upon  the  whole  route,  and  the  climate  such  that  stock 


APPENDIX.  125 

can  live  all  winter  upon  the  grass.  I  will  here  state  the  route 
I  think  best  for  emigrants  to  travel :  Leave  Westport,  Missouri, 
take  the  road  to  Uniontown,  then  to  Fort  Centre,  then  take 
Captain  Gunnison's  trail,  which  leads  from  the  Kansas  to  the 
Arkansas,  near  the  mouth  of  Walnut  Creek,  up  the  Arkansas 
above  Bent's  Old  Fort,  thirty-two  miles;  then  up  the  Huerfano, 
through  Captain  Gunnison's  Pass  to  Fort  Massachusetts ;  then 
to  Little  Salt  Lake,  Walker's  Pass,  Sierra  Nevada ;  then  down 
the  valley  of  the  San  Joaquin  to  Stockton  or  San  Francisco. 
There  are  settlements  at  different  points  all  along  this  route, 
where  emigrants  can  get  supplies,  none  farther  apart  than  two 
hundred  miles.  After  leaving  Missouri,  you  pass  first  Council 
Grove,  next  the  Fort  on  Walnut  Creek,  next  Green.  Horn,  next 
Fort  Massachusetts,  Little  Salt  Lake,  Santa  Clara,  Vegas  de 
Santa  Clara ;  at  each  of  these  supplies  can  be  had.  I  feel  con 
fident,  when  Captain  Gunnison  makes  out  his  report,  that  this 
route  will  be  adopted.  The  pass  through  the  Sierra  Blanca 
[Sangre  de  Cristo  ?]  is  so  low  and  gradual  that  a  railroad  can  be 
made  over  it,  and  the  grade  will  not  exceed  fifty  feet  to  the 
mile.  Captain  Gunnison  is  doing  his  whole  duty,  and  well 
deserves  the  thanks  of  the  whole  country,  for  the  very  well 
laid  out  road  through  this  almost  unexplored  country.  I  will 
write  you  again  after  getting  through  to  California,  and  describe 
the  rest  of  the  way. 

Yours  respectfully,    ^fSW 

CHARLES  W.  McCLANAHAN. 


EXTRACT  OF  A  LETTER  FROM  MR.  E.  S.  WOOTTON, 
Published  in  the  Missouri  Democrat. 
DON  FERNANDEZ  DE  TAGS,  NEW  MEXICO,  October  22,  1853. 

EDITOR  MISSOURI  DEMOCRAT: — 

Having  passed  several  years  in  the  mountains  and  in  this 
country^  and  having  some  knowledge  of  the  same,  I  propose 
giving,  through  your  valuable  columns,  to  the  emigrants,  some 
information  as  regards  the  Central  Eoute  to  California.  During 
the  last  year,  I  have  taken  a  drove  of  sheep  from  this  place 


126  APPENDIX.  '. 

to  California,  over  the  route  Colonel  Fremont  intended  to  Lave 
gone  in  the  winter  of  '48,  '49,  at  ,the  time  of  his  disaster.  I 
made  the  trip  through  to  California  in  ninety  days,  arriving 
there  with  my  sheep  in  good  order,  having  passed  through 
some  of  the  finest  country  I  ever  saw,  had  good  camps,  and 
plenty  of  wood,  water,  and  grass  every  night  during  the  whole 
trip.  This  route  is  at  least  450  miles  nearer  than  the  route  by 
Fort  Laramie  and  South  Pass.  I  recommend  to  emigrants  by 
all  means  to  take  this  route  in  preference  to  any  other.  Start 
from  Kansas  or  any  town  on  the  western  frontier  of  Missouri, 
come  up  the  north  side  of  the  Arkansas  River  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Huerfano  River,  about  forty-five  miles  above  Bent's  Fort, 
up  the  Huerfano  River  to  Roubideau's  Pass,  or  the  Pass  El 
Sangre  de  Cristo,  either  of  them  practicable  for  wagons,  the 
ascent  and  descent  being  narrow  valleys  made  by  small  mount 
ain  streams,  and  so  gradual  as  to  offer  no  obstruction  to  wagons. 
Both  these  passes  lead  into  the  valley  of  San  Luis,  one  of  the 
finest  valleys  in  the  world ;  follow  up  the  valley  to  the  Coocha- 
tope  Pass,  in  the  Grand  River  Mountain;  down  the  Coocha- 
tope  River,  to  the  valleys  of  Grand  and  Green  Rivers,  until  you 
strike  the  Great  Spanish  trail ;  then  follow  the  trail  to  the  Little 
Salt  Lake  and  to  the  St.  Clara  Springs ;  at  both  of  these  places 
there  are  flourishing  towns  built  by  the  Mormons,  where  emi 
grants  can  procure  such  things  as  they  want  at  fair  prices.  I 
was  offered  flour  at  $2  50  per  100  pounds,  and  groceries  at  faiv 
prices.  From  St.  Clara  Springs  to  San  Francisco,  by  Walker's 
Pass,  there  is  a  good  wagon-road,  and  settlements  all  the  way. 
Captain  Gunnison  with  his  party  left  the  Pass  El  Sangre  de 
Cristo  about  the  16th  August,  and  made  the  journey  through 
to  Green  River  in  twenty-four  days,  with  twenty  wagons.  A 
few  days  behind  Captain  Gunnison  was,  a  party  of  emigrants, 
who  had  made  up  their  minds  to  pass  the  winter  at  Salt  Lake, 
in  consequence  of  being  so  late  in  the  season ;  after  being  in 
formed  of  this  route,  they  determined  to  try  the  road ;  the  party 
was  conducted  by  Captain  McClanahan,  of  .Virginia ;  with  the 
party  was  Colonel  Ross  and  brother,  from  Iowa,  with  their 
families,  with  several  other  gentlemen.  They  had  2,000  sheep, 
and  from  3  to  400  head  of  cattle.  Mr.  Leroux,  the  guide'  of 
Captain  Gunnison,  met  the  emigrants  on  his  return  to  this  place 
on  Grand  River,  and  reports  that  they  were  very  much  pleased 


APPENDIX.  127 

with  the  route,  their  stock  being  in  excellent  condition.  Cap 
tain  McClanahan,  who  has  been  several  times  to  California  with 
stock  by  the  South  Pass  route,  says  there  is  no  comparison  be 
tween  the  routes ;  that  he  would  sooner  pass  five  times  from 
the  Arkansas  to  Grand  River,  than  pass  through  the  Black  Hills 
on  the  Laramie  route  once.  There  is  now  being  commenced 
a  settlement  on  the  Arkansas  Eiver  at  the  mouth  of  the  Huerfano, 
at  which  place  emigrants  can  also  procure  such  necessaries  as 
they  may  be  in  want  of;  also  information  as  to  the  route,  or 
guides  if  they  wish.  There  is  also  a  good  ferry  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Huerfano,  and  ferries  will  also  be  established  during  the 
coming  summer  on  Grand  and  Green  Rivers.  There  is  also 
another  great  advantage  that  this  route  has  over  a  more 
northern  one,  as*  emigrants  can  leave  Missouri  as  late  as  the  1st 
August,  and  be  in  no  danger  of  being  stopped  by  snow.  After 
reaching  the  Great  Spanish  trail  in  the  valley  of  Green  River, 
from  thence  to  California  there  is  never  any  snow,  and  the 
months  of  October  and  November  are  more  pleasant  to  travel- 
lers,  and  better  for  stock,  than  the  summer  months. 

*  *  ***** 

I  am,  sir,  respectfully, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

R.  S.  WOOTTON. 


128  APPENDIX. 


CAMELS,  AS  A  SUBSTITUTE  FOR  HORSES,  MULES,  ETC. 

During  our  journey  across  the  continent,  I  took  particular 
note  of  the  country,  with  reference  to  its  adaptation  to  the  use 
of  camels  and  dromedaries,  and  to  ascertain  whether  these  ani 
mals  might  be  introduced  with  advantage  on  our  extensive 
plains. 

Having,  by  a  residence  of  many  years  in  Asia  and  Africa, 
become  well  acquainted  with  their  qualities  and  powers  of 
endurance,  I  am  now  convinced  that  they  would  be  of  inesti 
mable  value  in  traversing  the  dry  and  barren  regions  between 
the  Colorado  and  the  Sierra  Nevada ;  and  I  am  glad  to  see  that 
the  Secretary  at  War  has,  in  his  late  report  to  Congress,  asked 
for  an  appropriation  for  the  purpose  of  importing  a  certain 
number,  in  order  to  test  their  usefulness. 

I  will  now  state  a  few  facts  which  will  show  the  valuable 
qualities  that  these  animals  possess,  the  manner  in  which  they 
may  be  rendered  serviceable,  and  the  facility  with  which  they 
might  be  domesticated  on  our  continent. 

In  enumerating  the  qualities  which  render  the  camel  and 
dromedary  so  well  suited  to  our  western  waters,  I  will  quote 
from  several  travellers,  whose  statements  will  corroborate  my 
own: — 

1.  Their  power  to  endure  hunger  and  thirst. — Ta vernier,  the 
great  Eastern  traveller,  states  that  his  camels,  in  going  from 
Aleppo  to  Ispahan,  by  the  Great  Desert,  went  nine  days  with 
out  drinking. 

The  French  missionary,  Hue,  who  travelled  in  Tartary,  Thi 
bet,  &c.  in  the  years  1844,  '45,  '46,  gives  some  interesting  in 
formation  in  relation  to  this  animal.  Speaking  of  the  Desert 
of  Ortos,  on  the  northern  border  of  China,  he  says :  "  Every 
where  the  waters  are  brackish,  the  soil  arid,  and  covered  with 
saline  efflorescences.  This  sterility  is  very  injurious  to  cattle; 
the  camel,  however,  whose  robust  and  hardy  nature  adapts 


APPENDIX.  129 

itself  to  the  most  barren  regions,  is  a  substitute  with  the  Tar 
tars  for  all  other  animals.  The  camel,  which  they  with  truth 
style  '  the  treasure  of  the  desert,'  can  abstain  from  food  and 
drink  for  fifteen  days,  and  sometimes  for  a  month.  However 
poor  the  country,  he  always  finds  sufficient  food  to  satisfy  his 
hunger.  In  the  most  sterile  plains,  the  herbs  which  other  ani 
mals  will  not  touch,  and  even  bushes  and  dry  wood,  will  serve 
him  for  food."  In  Barbary,  they  can  remain  five  days  without 
drinking  during  the  summer  when  the  heat  is  intolerable,  and 
there  is  little  or  no  herbage ;  but  when  there  is  grass,  and  par 
ticularly  in  spring,  they  require  no  water  for  three  weeks. 

2.  Their  strength,  speed,  and  endurance. — No  animal  can  com 
pete  with  the  camel  for  strength  and  endurance.     The  African 
traveller,  Shaw,  relates  that  on  his  journey  to  Mount  Sinai, 
which  was  over  a  very  hot  and  stony  region,  though  each  of 
his  camels  carried  seven  quintals  (784  pounds),  he  travelled  ten, 
and  sometimes  fifteen  hours  a  day,  at  the  rate  of  three  miles  an 
hour. 

Another  traveller  (F.  A.  Neale,  Eight  Years  in  Syria}  states : 
"  The  Turcoman  camel,  a  much  finer  animal  than  the  Syrian, 
will  carry,  equally  poised,  two  bales,  weighing  together  half  a 
ton." 

Hue  remarks :  "  Although  he  costs  so  little  to  nourish,  the 
camel  can  be  properly  appreciated  in  those  countries  only 
where  he  is  in  constant  use.  His  ordinary  load  is  from  seven 
to  eight  hundred  pounds,  and  with  this  burden  he  can  travel 
about  ten  leagues  a  day." 

In  Barbary,  they  carry  from  550  to  600  pounds,  and  travel 

forty  miles  a  day.  Bancroft  Library 

3.  The  longevity  of  the  camel. — The  naturalist,  Buffon,  states 
that  camels  live  from  forty  to  fifty  years.     In  Tunis,  where  I 
had  daily  opportunities  of  seeing  them,  they  live  fully  fifty 
years.     Mr.  Hue  says  that  they  retain  their  vigor  for  many 
years,  and  if  they  are  allowed  a  short  period  of  rest  in  the 
spring,  to  pasture,  they  are  of  good  service  for  fifty  years. 

The  camel,  therefore,  possesses  more  useful  qualities  than 
any  other  animal  subjected  to  the  use  of  man.     His  strength  is 
such  that  he  can  carry  more  than  three  mule  loads,  though  he 
requires  as  little  nourishment  as  the  ass. 
10 


loO  APPENDIX. 

In  Asia  and  Africa,  the  journeys  of  the  caravans  are  often 
from  two  thousand  to  three  thousand  miles  in  length,  during 
which  they  average  from  thirty  to  thirty-five  miles  a  day. 

They  are  remarkably  docile  and  obedient  to  their  masters ; 
lie  down  to  be  loaded  and  unloaded ;  at  night  sleep  crouched  in 
a  circle  around  the  encampment.  They  rarely  stray  away,  nor 
are  they,  as  mules,  liable  to  be  frightened ;  it  would  be  diffi 
cult — nay,  impossible — to  stampede  a  caravan  of  camels.  When 
turned  out  to  pasture,  they  eat  in  an  hour  as  much  as  serves 
them  to  ruminate  the  whole  night,  and  to  nourish  them  during 
twenty-four  hours. 

The  female  camel  furnishes  excellent  milk  longer  than  the 
cow,  upon  which  the  Arabs  often  subsist  during  their  long 
journeys.  Their  hair,  which  is  renewed  annually,  is  more  in 
request  than  the  finest  wool;  the  fleece  weighs  about  ten 
pounds. 

The  dromedary  possesses  the  same  qualities  as  the  camel,  as 
regards  abstemiousness,  docility,  &c.,  to  which  he  adds  much 
greater  speed  and  endurance. 

The  dromedary  is  a  much  taller  and  finer-shaped  animal  than 
the  camel.  The  Arabs  assert  that  he  can  travel  as  far  in  one 
day  as  one  of  their  best  horses  can  in  four.  They  are  so  hardy 
that  they  travel  in  the  desert  for  eight  or  ten  days  at  the  rate 
of  from  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  to  one  hundred  and  fifty 
miles  per  day,  during  which  time  they  require  very  little  food 
or  water.  I  saw  a  party  of  Arabs,  mounted  on  dromedaries, 
arrive  in  Tunis  in  four  days  from  Tripoli,  a  distance  of  six 
hundred  miles. 

In  these  journeys  they  do  not  bear  heavy  loads,  but  carry  a 
man,  with  his  arms  and  provisions,  which  are  equivalent  to 
about  two  hundred  and  fifty  pounds. 

General  Yusuf,  of  the  French  army,  travelled  from  Blidah,  a 
town  in  the  interior  of  Algeria,  to  the  city  of  Algiers,  in  a  car 
riage  drawn  by  dromedaries.  Though  these  animals  had  a  few 
days  before  made  a  journey  from  Medeah  to  Boghar,  a  distance 
of  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles,  in  twenty-four  hours,  the 
General  drove  them  at  the  rate  of  ten  miles  the  hour. 

Hue  remarks:  "  Those  that  are  employed  to  carry  dispatches 
are  made  to  travel  eighty  leagues  in  a  day ;  but  they  only  carry 
a  rider." 


APPENDIX.  131 

The  same  author  observes :  "  When  their  fur  is  long,  camels 
can  endure  the  most  severe  frosts.  Naturalists  have  stated  that 
camels  could  not  live  in  cold  climates;  they  probably  had 
reference  to  those  of  Arabia." 

In  Turkey  in  Europe,  where  the  winters  are  very  severe, 
camels  are  in  common  use  at  all  seasons.  They  are  also  used 
in  winter  as  well  as  summer,  on  the  elevated  steppes  of  Tartary 
as  far  north  as  50°. 


APPENDIX. 


(ii.) 

ROUTE   FROM  LAS  VEGAS  DE   SANTA  CLARA  TO  WALKER'S 
PASS,  BY  THE  WAY  OF  OWEN'S  RIVER  AND  OWEN'S  LAKE. 

IT  is  seen  by  the  Journal  that  it  was  the  wish  of  Col.  Benton 
that  we  should  have  gone  nearly  due  west  from  Santa  Clara 
Meadows  to  Owen's  River,  and  also  the  reason  why  we  followed 
the  old  Spanish  trail  by  the  Mohaveh,  and  thence  to  Los 
Angeles.  His  reason  was,  that  the  Spanish  trail  went  too  far 
to  the  south,  and  over  the  desert,  while  it  was  believed  there 
would  be  a  more  direct  way,  and  over  a  better  country,  by 
keeping  west  to  Owen's  River,  at  the  eastern  base  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada.  This  was  the  belief  of  Col.  Fremont,  who  had  ex 
amined  Owen's  Eiver  and  Lake,  and  laid  them  down  in  his 
map  of  1848,  and  also  sketched  a  mountain  running  east  and 
west,  about  latitude  38,  along  the  southern  base  of  which  he 
judged  (from  the  nature  of  mountains  and  valleys  in  that  region) 
there  must  be  a  belt  of  fertile  land,  with  wood,  water,  and  grass, 
making  a  valley  east  and  west ;  which  was  the  course  that  the 
route  for  the  road  required.  His  views  have  been  subsequently 
verified,  and  as  early  as  1849-50,  by  a  party  of  emigrants} 
headed  by  the  Eev.  J.  W.  BRIER,  who  has  published  an  ac 
count  of  it  in  the  Christian  Advocate,  a  religious  paper  in  San 
Francisco. 

REVEREND  MR.  BRIER'S  STATEMENT. 

"In  September,  of  1849,  we  left  Salt  Lake,  in  Hunt's  large 
wagon  train,  for  Los  Angeles.     We  travelled  nearly  south  to  a 
point  on  the  old  Spanish  trail,  called  'The  Divide,'  about  75 
11 


134  APPENDIX. 

miles  southwest  of  Little  Salt  Lake.*  Near  this  point  we  were 
overtaken  by  some  Mormons,  who  brought  with  them  a  way 
bill  of  a  new  and  better  route  from  the  Divide  to  the  southern 
mines,  via  Owen's  Lake,  Walker's  Pass,  and  Tulare  Valley. 
This  way-bill  was  given  by  a  hunter,  named  Ward,  who  had 
assumed  the  habits  and  intermarried  with  the  Utahs,  and  was 
one  of  Walker's  band.  The  way-bill  stated  that  we  should  find 
a  succession  of  fertile  valleys,  and  plenty  of  grass  and  water,  in 
a  direct  line  to  Owen's  Lake  and  Walker's  Pass. 

"  This  way-bill,  and  other  causes,  induced  that  part  of  the 
company  to  which  I  belonged  to  take  the  cut-off.  Leaving  the 
Spanish  trail,  we  travelled  west  25  miles,  through  an  opening 
in  the  mountains,  having  an  excellent  and  almost  level  road. 
We  then  turned  south,  through  a  long,  narrow  valley,  which 
brought  us  up  on  some  table-lands,  near  the  head  waters  of  the 
Santa  Clara.  At  this  point  we  should  have  turned  to  the  west, 
and  would  thereby  have  reached  the  first  Muddy  by  a  more 
direct  line  and  by  a  much  better  road.  But,  bearing  off  too  far 
south,  a  few  hours  brought  us  to  the  Santa  Clara,  in  the  vicinity 
of  deep  and  impassable  canons.  After  three  days  of  fruitless 
explorations  in  a  southerly  course,  most  of  the  company  re 
turned  to  the  Spanish  trail.  But  the  company  to  which  I  was 
attached,  discovering  an  open  country  to  the  west,  and,  believ 
ing  we  had  gone  too  far  south,  resolved  on  a  western  course. 
Twenty  miles  brought  us  to  the  first  Muddy.  In  travelling 
this  twenty  miles,  we  found  no  serious  obstacles,  excepting  a 
cedar  forest,  through  which  we  cut  a  road.  By  bearing  to  the 
south,  in  this  instance,  we  lost  about  ten  miles  and  found  a 
rougher  road.  Still,  we  found  nothing  difficult  or  serious  even 
by  this  route.  This  region  abounds  in  spruce  and  cedar. 

"From  the  first  to  the  second  Muddy  is  about  50  miles.  The 
country  over  which  we  passed  was  a  succession  of  valleys,  sepa 
rated  by  low  dividing  ridges.  About  10  miles  north,  the 
country  seemed  a  continuous  plain  nearly  the  entire  distance. 
This  part  of  the  road  can  boast  of  nothing  but  a  good  solid 
foundation  for  a  road,  being  rather  sterile.  From  the  second 

*  This  is  the  third  Vegas  de  Santa  Clara,  in  which  the  Rio  de  Santa  Clara 
running  south,  and  a  stream  discharging  into  Sevier  or  Nicollet  Lake,  bead.  H. 


APPENDIX.  135 

Muddy,  we  took  a  southwest  direction,  through  a  valley  60 
miles  in  length,  some  parts  of  which  were  very  fertile,  having 
an  extraordinary  growth  of  bunch  grass.  On  the  north  side  of 
the  valley  there  is  a  high  mountain  range  nearly  100  miles 
long;  in  this  mountain  we  discovered  creeks  large  enough  to 
turn  a  mill.  Leaving  this  valley,  we  descended  by  a  long  slope 
into  what  seemed  to  be  a  lower  region  of  country  and  entirely 
different,  being  more  desert,  yet  better  adapted  to  a  road  than 
the  former,  having  a  more  solid  foundation.  The  mountains 
in  this  region  are  so  isolated  as  to  admit  of  a  passage  through 
them  in  almost  any  direction.  From  our  descent  into  this  part 
of  the  route  to  Owen's  Mountains  it  is  about  50  miles,  and  pre 
sents  no  obstacle  in  the  way  of  the  erection  of  a  road,  and  needs 
but  little  grading.  When  within  25  or  30  miles  of  the  pass  in 
Owen's  Mountains  to  which  the  way-bill  directed  us,  most  of 
the  company,  becoming  alarmed  at  the  prospects,  and  being 
deceived  by  the  gestures  of  two  Indian  captives,  took  a  south 
course  for  100  miles,  or  near  that,  and  were  then  compelled  to 
leave  their  wagons  and  cross  Owen's  Mountains  on  foot,  and 
that,  too,  over  its  very  highest  summits,  and  where  it  spreads 
itself  into  four  distinct  ranges,  which,  however,  terminate  a  little 
further  south. 

"  From  these  heights,  a  depression  could  be  seen  to  the  north. 
where  we  should  have  crossed.  The  distance  from  the  desert, 
east  of  Owen's  Mountains,  to  Owen's  Eiver,  I  suppose  is  about  50 
miles ;  from  Owen's  Lake  to  Walker's  Pass  is  about  50  miles ; 
and  all  that  distance,  or  most  of  it,  is  an  open  valley,  from  five  to 
ten  miles  wide,  lying  between  the  Sierra  Nevada  and  Owen's 
Mountains.  The  ascent  from  the  eastern  side  to  the  summit  of 
Sierra,  in  Walker's  Pass,  is  gradual  and  easy  -r  and  the  descent 
down  Kern  Eiver  is  still  more  so.  A  part  of  our  company 
passed  through  in  January,  1849,  and  found  no  snow.  The 
entire  distance  from  the  Divide  on  the  Spanish  trail  to  Walker's 
Pass  I  estimate  at  about  350  miles.  In  all  this  distance,  Owen's 
Mountain  is  the  only  impediment,  and,  from  all  that  I  could 
learn  and  see,  I  am  satisfied  that  there  is  a  good  pass,  and  that 
when  it  is  thoroughly  explored,  it  will  prove  no  real  impedi 
ment.  In  all  this  distance,  you  find  no  impediment  from  snow 
whatever.  Now,  if  the  country  east  of  the  Wahsatch  is  equal 


136 


APPENDIX. 


to  that  part  of  the  route  west  of  the  Wahsatch,  I  have  no  hesi 
tancy  in  saying  that,  for  distance  and  locality,  it  has  greatly 
the  preference  over  every  other.  I  have  personal  knowledge, 
and  actual  observation,  of  a  part,  at  least,  of  both  the  North 
and  South  routes." 


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J.  M.  MATTHEWS,  D.  D.,    «  New  York  City  University. 

GEORGE  E.  PIERCE,  D.  D.,  «  Western  Reserve  College,  Ohio. 

Rev.  Dr.  BROWN,  «  Jefferson  College,  Penn. 

LEONARD  WOODS,  D.  D.,  Professor  of  Theology,  Andover  Seminary. 

THOS.  H.  SKINNER,  D.  D.,       «  Sac.  Rhet       «  « 

Rev.  RALPH  EMERSON,  "  Eccl.  Hist.       "  " 

Rev.  JOEL  PARKER,  Pastor  of  Presbyterian  Church,  New  Orleans. 

JOEL  HA  WES,  D.  D.,      *  Congregational  Church,  Hartford,  Conn. 

/     N.  S.  S.  BEAMAN,  D.  D.,  "          Presbyterian  Church,  Troy,  N.  Y. 

MARK  TUCKER,  D.  D., "  "  "          "       " 

Rev.  E.  N.  KIRK,  «  «  «        Albany,  N.  Y. 

Rev.  E.  B.  EDWARDS,  Editor  of  Quarterly  Observer. 

Rev.  STEPHEN  MASON,  Pastor  First  Congregatioaal  Church,  Nantucket 

Rev.  OJUN  FOWLER,  «'    .'  «  «  "Fall  River. 

GEORGE  W.  BETHUNE,  D.  D.,  Pastor  of  the  First  Reformed  Dutch  Church,  Philada. 

Rev.  tYMAN  BEECHER,  D.  D.,  Cincinnati,  Ohio. 

Rev   C.  D.  MALLORY,  Pastor  Baptist  Church,  August*,  Ga. 

Rer.  S.  M.  NOEL,  «          "  «       Frankfort,  Ky. 

Prom  the  Professors  at  Princeton  Theoloyical  Seminary. 

The  Comprehensive  Commentary  contains  the  whole  of  Henry's  Exposition  in  a  condensed  form, 
Scott's  Practical  Observations  and  Marginal  References,  and  a  large  number  of  very  valuable  philo 
logical  and  critical  notes,  selected  from  various  authors.  The  work  appears  to  be  executed  with 
judgment,  fidelity,  and  care ;  and  will  furnish  a  rich  treasure  of  scriptural  knowledge  to  th» 
Biblical  student,  and  to  the  teachers  of  Sabbath-Schools  and  Bible  Classes. 

A.  ALEXANDER,  D.  D. 
SAMUEL  MILLER,  D.  D. 
CHARLES  HODGE,  D.  D. 

_ 


LIPPINCOTT,  GRAMBO  &  CO.'S  PUBLICATIONS. 


ta 


In  one  super-royal  volume. 

DESIGNED   TO   ACCOMPANY 

THE  FAMILY  BIBLE, 

OR  HENRY'S,  SCOTT'S,  CLARKE'S,  GILL'S,  OR  OTHER  COMMENTARIES: 
CONTAINING 

1.  A  new,  full,  and  complete  Concordance; 

Illustrated  with  monumental,  traditional,  and  oriental  engravings,  founded  on  Butterworth's,  with 
Cruden's  definitions  ;  forming,  it  is  believed,  on  many  accounts,  a  more  valuable  work  than  either 
Butterworth,  Cruden,  or  any  other  similar  book  in  the  language. 

The  value  of  a  Concordance  is  now  generally  understood  ;  and  those  who  have  used  one,  con 
sider  it  indispensable  in  connection  with  the  Bible. 

2.  A  Gruide  to  the  Reading  and  Study  of  the  Bible  ; 

being  Carpenter's  valuable  Biblical  Companion,  lately  published  in  London,  containing  a  complete 
history  of  the  Bible,  and  forming  a  most  excellent  introduction  to  its  study.  It  embraces  the  evi 
dences  of  Christianity,  Jewish  antiquities,  manners,  customs,  arts,  natural  history,  <Sic.,  of  the  Bible, 
with  notes  and  engravings  added. 

8.  Complete  Biographies  of  Henry,  by  "Williams;  Scott,  by  his 
son;  Doddridge,  by  Orton; 

with  sketches  of  the  lives  and  characters,  and  notices  of  the  works,  of  the  writers  on  the  Scriptures 
who  are  quoted  in  the  Commentary,  living  and  dead,  American  and  foreign. 

This  part  of  the  volume  not  only  affords  a  large  quantity  of  interesting  and  useful  reading  for 
pious  families,  but  will  also  be  a  source  of  gratification  to  all  those  who  are  in  the  habit  of  consult 
ing  the  Commentary  ;  every  one  naturally  feeling  a  desire  to  know  some  particulars  of  the  lives  and 
characters  of  those  whose  opinions  he  seeks.  Appended  to  this  part,  will  be  a 

BIBLIOTHECA  BIBLICA, 

or  list  of  the  best  works  on  the  Bible,  of  all  kinds,  arranged  under  their  appropriate  heads. 

4.  A  complete  Index  of  the  Matter  contained  in  the  Bible  Text. 
5.  A  Symbolical  Dictionary. 

A  very  comprehensive  and  valuable  Dictionary  of  Scripture  Symbols,  (occupying  about  fifly-n* 
closely  printed  pages,)  by  Thomas  Wemyss,  (author  of  "  Biblical  Gleanings,"  Ac.)  Comprising 
Danbuz,  Lancaster,  Hutcheson,  ic. 

6.  The  Work  contains  several  other  Articles, 

Indexes,  Tables,  <fcc.  <kc.,  and  is, 

7.  Illustrated  by  a  large  Plan  of  Jerusalem, 

identifying,  as  far  as  tradition,  <fec.,  go,  the  original  sites,  drawn  on  the  spot  by  F.  Catherwood,  of 
London,  architect.  Also,  two  steel  engravings  of  portraits  of  seven  foreign  and  eight  American 
theological  writers,  and  numerous  wood  engravings. 

The  whole  forms  a  desirable  and  necessary  fund  of  instruction  for  the  use  not  only  of  clergymen 
and  Sabbath-school  teachers,  but  also  for  families.  When  the  great  amount  of  matter  it  must 
contain  is  considered,  it  will  be  deemed  exceedingly  cheap. 

"  I  have  examined  '  The  Companion  to  the  Bible,"  and  have  been  surprised  to  find  so  much  inform 
ation  introduced  into  a  volume  of  so  moderate  a  size.  It  contains  a  library  of  sacred  knowledge 
and  criticism.  It  will  be  useful  to  ministers  who  own  large  libraries,  and  cannot  fail  to  be  an 
invaluable  help  to  every  reader  of  the  Bible."  HENRY  MORRIS, 

Pastor  of  Congregational  Church,  Vermont. 

The  above  work  can  be  had  in  several  styles  of  binding.    Price  varying 
from  $1  75  to  $5  00. 


LIPPINCOTT,  GRAMBO  &  CO.'S  PUBLICATIONS. 

ILLUSTRATIONS  OF  THE  HOLY  SCRIPTURES, 

In  one  super-royal  volume. 

DERIVED  PRINCIPALLY  FROM  THE  MANNERS,  CUSTOMS,  ANTIQUITIES,  TRADITIONS, 
AND  FORMS  OF  SPEECH,  RITES,  CLIMATE,  WORKS  OF  ART,  AND 

LITERATURE  OF  THE  EASTERN  NATIONS : 

EMBODYING    ALL   THAT    IS    VALUABLE    IN    THE    WORKS   OF 

ROBERTS,  HARMEH,  BURDER,  PAXTON,  CHANDLER, 

And  the  most  celebrated  oriental  travellers.    Embracing  also  the  subject  of  the  Fulfilment  of 

Prophecy,  as  exhibited  by  Keith  and  others ;  with  descriptions  of  the  present  state 

of  countries  and  planes  mentioned  in  the  Sacred  Writings. 

ILLUSTRATED  BY  NUMEROUS  LANDSCAPE  ENGRAVINGS, 

FKOM     SKETCHES     TAKEN     ON    THE    SPOT. 

Edited  by  Rev.  GEORGE  BUSH, 

Professor  of  Hebrew  and  Oriental  Literature  in  the  New  York  City  University. 

The  importance  of  this  work  must  be  obvious,  and,  being  altogether  illustrative,  without  reference 
to  doctrines,  or  other  points  in  which  Christians  differ,  it  is  hoped  it  will  meet  with  favour  from  all 
who  love  the  sacred  volume,  and  that  it  will  be  sufficiently  interesting  and  attractive  to  recommend 
itself,  not  only  to  professed  Christians  of  all  denominations,  but  also  to  the  general  reader.  The 
arrangement  of  the  texts  illustrated  with  the  notes,  in  the  order  of  the  chapters  and  verses  of  the 
authorized  version  of  the  Bible,  will  render  it  convenient  for  reference  to  particular  passages ; 
while  the  copious  Index  at  the  end  will  at  once  enable  the  reader  to  turn  to  every  subject  discussed 
in  the  volume. 

This  volume  is  not  designed  to  take  the  place  of  Commentaries,  but  is  a  distinct  department  of  biblical 
instruction,  and  may  be  used  as  a  companion  to  the  Comprehensive  or  any  other  Commentary,  or  the 
Huiy  Bibtt. 

THE  ENGRAVINGS 

in  this  volume,  it  is  believed,  will  form  no  small  part  of  its  attractions.  No  pains  have  been  spared 
to  procure  such  as  should  embellish  the  work,  and,  at  the  same  time,  illustrate  the  text.  Objec 
tions  that  have  been  made  to  the  pictures  commonly  introduced  into  the  Bible,  as  being  mere  crea 
tions  of  fancy  and  the  imagination,  often  unlike  nature,  and  frequently  conveying  false  impressions, 
cannot  be  urged  against  the  pictorial  illustrations  of  this  volume.  Here  the  fine  arts  are  made 
subservient  to  utility,  the  landscape  views  being,  without  an  exception,  matter-of-fact  views  of  places 
mentioned  in  Scripture,  as  they  appear  at  the  present  day ;  thus  in  many  instances  exhibiting,  in  the 
nii(St  forcible  manner,  to  the  eye,  the  strict  and  literal  fulfilment  of  the  remarkable  prophecies ;  "  the 
present  ruined  and  desolate  condition  of  the  cities  of  Babylon,  Nineveh,  Selah,  <kc.,  and  the  coun 
tries  of  Edom  and  Egypt,  are  astonishing  examples,  and  so  completely  exemplify,  in  the  most 
minute  particulars,  every  thing  which  was  foretold  of  them  in  the  height  of  their  prosperity,  that 
no  better  description  can  now  be  given  of  them  than  a  simple  quotation  from  a  chapter  and  verse 
of  the  Bible  written  nearly  two  or  three  thousand  years  ago."  The  publishers  are  enabled  to  select 
from  several  collections  lately  published  in  London,  the  proprietor  of  one  of  which  says  that  "  seve 
ral  distinguished  travellers  have  afforded  him  the  use  of  nearly  Tltree  Hundred  Original  Sketches" 
of  Scripture  places,  made  upon  the  spot.  "The  land  of  Palestine,  it  is  well  known,  abound*  in 
scenes  of  the  most  picturesque  beauty.  Syria  comprehends  the  snowy  heights  of  Lebanon,  and  the 
majestic  ruins  of  Tadmor  and  Baalbec." 
The  above  work  can  be  had  in  various  styles  of  binding. 

Price  from  $1  50  to  $5  00. 

THE  ILLUSTRATED  CONCORDANCE, 

In  one  volume,  royal  8vo. 

A  new,  full,  and  complete  Concordance ;  illustrated  with  monumental,  traditional,  and  oriental 
engravings,  founded  on  Butterworth's,  with  Cruden's  definitions ;  forming,  it  is  believed,  on  many 
accounts,  a  more  valuable  work  than  either  Butterworth,  Cruden,  or  any  other  similar  book  in  the 
language. 

The  value  of  a  Concordance  is  now  generally  understood  ;  and  those  who  have^used  one,  con- 

f'der  it  indispensable  in  connection  with  the  Bible.    Some  of  the  m'any  advantages  the  Illustrated 
oncordance  has  over  all  the  others,  are,  that  it  contains  near  two  hundred  appropriate  engravings  : 
it  is  printed  OH  flue  white  paper,  with  beautiful  large  type. 

Price  One  Dollar. 


LIPPINCOTT,  GRAMBO  &  CO.'S  PUBLICATIONS. 
LIPPINCOTT'S  EDITION  OF 

BAGSTER'S  COMPREHENSIVE  BIBLE, 

In  order  to  develop*  the  peculiar  nature  of  the  Comprehensive  Bible,  it  will  only  be  necessary 
to  embrace  its  more  prominent  features. 

1st.  The  SACRED  TEXT  is  that  of  the  Authorized  Version,  and  is  printed  from  the  edition  cor 
rected  and  improved  by  Dr.  Blaney,  which,  from  its  accuracy,  is  considered  the  standard  edition. 

2d.  The  VARIOUS  READINGS  are  faithfully  printed  from  the  edition  of  Dr.  Blaney,  inclusive 
of  the  translation  of  the  proper  names,  without  the  addition  or  diminution  of  one. 

3d.  In  the  CHRONOLOGY,  great  care  has  been  taken  to  fix  the  date  of  the  particular  transac 
tions,  which  has  seldom  been  done  with  any  degree  of  exactness  in  any  former  edition  of  ths  Bible. 

4th.  The  NOTES  are  exclusively  philological  and  explanatory,  and  are  not  tinctured  with  senti 
ments  of  any  sect  or  party.  They  are  selected  from  the  most  eminent  Biblical  critics  and  com 
mentators. 

It  is  hoped  that  this  edition  of  the  Holy  Bible  will  be  found  to  contain  the  essence  of  Biblical 
research  and  criticism,  that  lies  dispersed -through  an  immense  number  of  volumes. 

Such  is  the  nature  and  design  of  this  edition  of  the  Sacred  Volume^  which,  from  the  various 
objects  it  embraces,  the  freedom  of  its  pages  from  all  sectarian  peculiarities,  and  the  beauty,  plain 
ness,  and  correctness  of  the  typography,  that  it  cannot  fail  of  proving  acceptable  and  useful  to 
Christians  of  every  denomination. 

In  addition  to  the  usual  references  to  parallel  passages,  which  are  quite  full  and  numerous,  the 
student  has  all  the  marginal  readings,  together  with  a  rich  selection  of  Philological,  Critical,  Histo 
rical,  Geographical,  and  other  valuable  notes  and  remarks,  which  explain  and  illustrate  the  sacred 
text.  Besides  the  general  introduction,  containing  valuable  essays  on  the  genuineness,  authenticity, 
and  inspiration  of  the  Holy  Scriptures,  and  other  topics  of  interest,  there  are  introductory  and  con 
cluding  remarks  to  each  book — a  table  of  the  contents  of  the  Bible,  by  which  the  different  portions 
are  so  arranged  as  to  read  in  an  historical  order. 

Arranged  at  the  top  of  each  page  is  the  period  in  which  the  prominent  events  of  sacred  history  ' 
took  place.  The  calculations  are  made  for  the-year  of  the  world  before  and  after  Christ,  Julian 
Period,  the  year  of  the  Olympiad,  the  year  of  the  building  of  Rome,  and  other  notations  of  time. 
At  the  close  is  inserted  a  Chronological  Index  of  the  Bible,  according  to  the  computation  of  Arch 
bishop  Ussher.  Also,  a  full  and  valuable  index  of  the  subjects  contained  in  the  Old  and  New  Testa 
ments,  with  a  careful  analysis  and  arrangement  of  texts  under  their  appropriate  subjects. 

Mr.  Greenfield,  the  editor  of  this  work,  and  for  some  time  previous  to  his  death  the  superintend 
ent  of  the  editorial  department  of  the  British  and  Foreign  Bible  Society,  was  a  most  extraordinary 
man.  In  editing  the  Comprehensive  Bible,  his  varied  and  extensive  learning  was  called  into  suc 
cessful  exercise,  and  appears  in  happy  combination  with  sincere  piety  and  a  sound  judgment.  The 
Editor  of  the  Christian  Observer,  alluding  to  this  work,  in  an  obituary  notice  of  its  author,  speaks 
of  it  as  a  work  of  "  prodigious  labour  and  research,  at  once  exhibiting  his  varied  talents  and  pro 
found  erudition." 


LIPPINCOTT'S  EDITION  OF 

THE  OXFORD  QUARTO  BIBLE, 

The  Publishers  have  spared  neither  care  nor  expense  in  their  edition  of  the  Bible ;  it  is  printed 
on  the  finest  white  vellum  paper,  with  large  and  beautiful  type,  and  bound  in  the  most  substantial 
and  splendid  manner,  in  the  following  styles:  "Velvet,  with  richly  gilt  ornaments;  Turkey  super 
extra,  with  gilt  clasps ;  and  in  numerous  others,  to  suit  the  taste  of  the  most  fastidious. 

OPINIONS    OF   THE   PRESS. 

*  Tn  our  opinion,  the  Christian  public  generally  will  feel  under  great  obligations  to  the  publishers 
of  this  work  for  the  beautiful  taste,  arrangement,  and  delicate  neatness  with  which  they  have  got 
it  out.  The  intrinsic  merit  of  the  Bible  recommends  itself;  it  needs  no  tinsel  ornament  to  adorn 
its  sacred  pages.  In  this  edition  every  superfluous  ornament  has  been  avoided,  and  we  hare  pre 
sented  us  a  perfectly  chaste  specimen  of  the  Bible,  without  note  or  comment.  It  appears  to  be  just 
what  is  needed  in  every  family—'  the  unsophisticated  word  of  God.' 

"  The  size  is  quarto,  printed  with  beautiful  type,  on  white,  sized  vellum  paper,  of  the  finest  texture 
and  most  beautiful  surface.  The  publishers  seem  to  have  been  solicitous  to  make  a  perfectly 
unique  hook,  and  they  have  accomplished  the  object  very  successfully.  We  trust  that  a  liberal 
community  will  afford  them  ample  remuneration  for  all  the  expense  and  outlay  they  have  necessa 
rily  incurred  in  its  publication.  It  is  a  standard  Bible. 

"  The  publishers  are  Messrs.  Ijppincott,  Grambo  &  Co.,  No.  H  North  Fourth  street,  Philadel 
phia."  —  Baptist  Record. 

"A  beautiful  quarto  edition  of  the  Bible,  by  L.,  G.  <fe  Co.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  type  in  clear- 
jess  anil  beauty;  tlie  paper  is  of  the  finest  texture,  and  the  whole  execution  is  exceedingly  neat. 
No  illustrations  or  ornamental  type  are  used.  Those  who  prefer  a  Bible  executed  in  perfect  sim 
plicity,  yet  elegance  of  style,  without  adornment,  will  probably  never  find  one  more  to  their  taste." 
—  Af.  Magazine. 


LIPPINCOTT,  GRAMBO  &  CO.'S  PUBLICATIONS. 
L.IPPINCOTTS  EDITIONS  OF 

THE   HOLY   BIBLE. 

SIX  DIFFERENT  SIZES, 

Printed  in  the  best  manner,  with  beautiful  type,  on  the  finest  sized  paper,  and  bound  in  the  most 
splendid  and  substantial  styles.  Warranted  to  be  correct,  and  equal  to  the  best  English  editions,  at 
much  less  price.  To  be  had  with  or  without  plates ;  the  publishers  having  supplied  themselves  with 
over  fifty  steel  engravings,  by  the  first  artists. 

Baxter's  Comprehensive  Bible, 

Royal  quarto,  containing  the  various  readings  and  marginal  notes ;  disquisitions  on  the  genuineness, 
authenticity,  and  inspiration  of  the  Holy  Scriptures ;  introductory  and  concluding  remarks  to  each 
book;  philological  and  explanatory  notes ;  table  of  contents,  arranged  in  historical  order;  a  chro 
nological  index,  and  various  other  matter ;  forming  a  suitable  book  for  the  study  of  clergymen, 
Sabbath-school  teachers,  and  students. 

In  neat  plain  binding,  from  $4  00  to  15  00. —  In  Turkey  morocco,  extra,  gilt  edges,  from  $8  00  to 
$12  00.  —  In  do.,  with  splendid  plates,  $10  00  to  $15  00.  —  In  do.,  bevelled  side,  gilt  clasps  and  illu 
minations,  $15  00  to  $25  00. 

The  Oxford  Quarto  Bible, 

Without  note  or  comment,  universally  admitted  to  be  the  most  beautiful  Bible  extant. 
In  neat  plain  binding,  from  $4  00  to  $5  00.  —  In  Turkey  morocco,  extra,  gilt  edges,  $8  00  to  $12  00. 
—  In  do.,  with  steel  engravings,  $10  00  to  $15  00.  — In  do.,  clasps,  <tc.,  with  plates  and  illumina 
tions,  $15  00  to  $25  00.  — In  rich  velvet,  with  gilt  ornaments,  $25  00  to  $50  00. 

Crown  Octavo  Bible, 

Printed  with  large  clear  type,  making  a  most  convenient  hand  Bible  for  family  use. 
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$2  00.  —  In  do.,  imitation,  <tc.,  $1  50  to  $3  00.— In  do.,  clasps,  tic.,  $2  50  to  $5  00.  — In  rich  velvet, 
with  gilt  ornaments,  $5  00  to  $10  00. 

The  Sunday- School  Teacher's  Polyglot  Bible,  with  Maps,  &c., 

In  neat  plain  binding,  from  60  ce^s  to  $1  00.  —  In  imitation  gilt  edge,  $1  00  to  $1  50.  —  In  Turkey, 
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ments,  $3  50  to  $8  00. 

The  Oxford  18mo.,  or  Pew  Bible, 

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ments.  $3  50  to  $8  00. 

Agate  32mo.  Bible, 

Printed  with  larger  type  than  any  other  small  or  pocket  edition  extant. 

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gilt  clasps,  $2  50  to  $3  50.  — In  velvet,  with  rich  gilt  ornaments,  $3  00  to  $7  00. 

3 2 mo.  Diamond  Pocket  Bible; 

The  neatest,  smallest,  and  cheapest  edition  of  the  Bible  published. 

In  neat  plain  binding,  from  30  to  50  cents.  —  In  tucks,  or  pocket-book  style,  60  cents  to  $1  00. — 
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gilt  clasps,  $1  50  to  $2  00.  — In  velvet,  with  richly  gilt  ornaments,  $2  50  to  $6  00. 

CONSTANTLY  ON  HAND, 

A  large  assortment  of  BIBLES,  bound  in  the  most  splendid  and  costly  styles,  with  gold  and  silver 
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ENCYCLOPEDIA  OF  RELIGIOUS  KNOWLEDGE; 

OR,  DICTIONARY  OF  THE  BIBLE,  THEOLOGY,  RELIGIOUS  BIOGRAPHY,  ALL  RELIGIONS, 

ECCLESIASTICAL  HISTORY,  AND  MISSIONS. 

Designed  as  a  complete  Book  of  Reference  on  all  Religious  Subjects,  and  Companion  to  the  Bible ; 
forming  a  cheap  and  compact  Library  of  Religious  Knowledge.  Edited  by  Rev.  J.  Newton  Brown. 
Illustrated  by  wood-cuts,  maps,  and  engravings  on  copper  and  steel.  In  one  volume,  royal  8vo. 
Price,  $4  00. 

6 


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The  Errors  of  Modern  Infidelity  Illustrated  and  Refuted. 

BY  S.  M.  SCHMtJCKER,  A.  JYT. 

In  one  volume,  12mo. ;  cloth.     Just  published. 

We  cannot  but  regard  this  work,  in  whatever  lisht  we  view  it  in  reference  to  its'  design,  as  one 
of  the  most  masterly  productions  of  the  age.  and  fitted  to  uproot  one  of  the  most  fomUy  onerane. 
and  danserous  of  all  ancient  or  modern  errors.  God  must  bless  such  a  work,  armei!  with  his  own 
truth  and  doing  fierce  and  successful  battle  against  black  infidelity,  which  would  brins  His  Majesty 
and  Word  down  to  the  tribunal  of  human  reason,  for  condemnation  and  annihilation.—  Alo.  Spectator. 


I  "                                                                                                     "™  I 

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Cjj?  Clergt]  of  Stmmta: 

CONSISTING    OF 

ANECDOTES  ILLUSTRATIVE  OF  THE  CHARACTER  OF  MINISTERS  OF  RELI 

GION  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES, 

BY   J'OSEPH  BELCHER,   D.  D., 

Editor  of  "The  Complete  Works  of  Andrew  Fuller,"  "Robert  Hall,"  &c. 

"This  very  interesting  and  instructive  collection  of  pleasing  and  solemn  remembrances  of  many 
pious  men,  illustrates  the  character  of  the  day  in  which  they  lived,  and  defines  the  men  more 

clearly  than  very  elaborate  essays."  —  Ualtimore  American. 

"We  regard  the  collection  as  highly  interesting,  and  judiciously  made."  —  Presbyterian. 

JOSEPHUS'S  (FLAVIUS)  WORKS, 

FAMILY    EDITION. 

BY  THE  LATE  WILLIAM  WHISTON,  A.  IMC. 

FROM  THE  LAST  LONDON  EDITION,  COMPLETE. 

One  volume,  beautifully  illustrated  with  Steel  Plates,  and  the  only  readable  edition 

published  in  this  country. 

As  a  matter  of  course,  every  family  in  our  country  has  a  copy  of  the  Holy  Bible  ;  and  as  the  pre- 

romption  is  that  the  greater  portion  often  consult  its  pages,  we  take  the  liberty  of  saying  to  all  those 

that  do,  that  the  perusal  of  the  writings  of  Josephus  will  be  found  very  interesting  and  instructive. 

All  those  who  wish  to  possess  a  beautiful  and  correct  copy  of  this  valuable  work,  would  do  well 

to  purchase  this  edition.    It  is  for  sale  at  all  the  principal  bookstores  in  the  United  States,  and  by 

country  merchants  generally  in  the  Southern  and  Western  States. 

Also,  the  above  work  in  two  volumes. 

BURDER'S  VILLAGE  SERMONS; 

Or,  101  Plain  and  Short  Discourses  on  the  Principal  Doctrines  of  the  Gospel. 

INTENDED  FOR  THE  USE  OF  FAMILIES,  SUNDAY-SCHOOLS,  OR  COMPANIES  ASSEM 

BLED  FOR  RELIGIOUS  INSTRUCTION  IN  COUNTRY  VILLAGES. 

BY  GEORGE  BURDER. 

To  which  is  added  to  each  Sermon,  a  Short  Prayer,  with  some  General  Prayers  for  Families, 

Schools,  <tc.,  at  the  end  of  the  work. 

COMPLETE    IN    ONE    VOLUME,    OCTAVO. 

These  sermons,  which  are  characterized  by  a  beautiful  simplicity,  the  entire  absence  of  contro 

versy,  and  a  true  evangelical  spirit,  have  gone  through  many  and  large  editions,  and  been  translated 

into  several  of  the  continental  languages.    "  They  have  also  been  the  honoured  means  not  only  of 

converting  many  individuals,  but  also  of  introducing  the  Gospel  into  districts,  and  even  into  parish 

churches,  where  before  it  was  comparatively  unknown." 

"  This  work  fully  deserves  the  immortality  it  has  attained." 

This  is  a  fine  library  edition  of  this  invaluable  work  ;  and  when  we  say  that  it  should  be  found  in 

the  possession  of  every  family,  we  only  reiterate  the  sentiments  and  sincere  wishes  of  all  who  take 

a  deep  interest  in  the  eternal  welfare  of  mankind. 

FAMILY  PRAYERS   AND  HYMNS, 

ADAPTED  TO  FAMILY  WORSHIP, 

AND 

TABLES  FOR  THE  REGULAR  READING  OF  THE  SCRIPTURES, 

By  Rev.  S.  C.  WINCHESTER,  A.  M., 

Late  Pastor  of  the  Sixth  Presbyterian  Church,  Philadelphia  ;   and  the  Presbyterian  Church  at 

Natchez,  Miss. 

One  volume,    12m  o. 

L                                                                                    8 

LIPPINCOTT,  GRAMBO  &  CO.'S  PUBLICATIONS. 

SPLENDID  LIBRARY  EDITIONS, 


ILLUSTRATED  STANDARD  POETS. 

ELEGANTLY   PRINTED,  ON   FINE   PAPER,  AND   UNIFORM   IN   SIZE  AND 

STVLE. 


The  following  Editions  of  Standard  British  Poets  are  illustrated  with  numerous  Steel 
Engravincs,  and  may  be  had  in  all  varieties  of  binding. 

BYRON'S  WORKS. 

COMPLETE   IN   ONE  VOLUME,   OCTAVO. 

INCLUDING  ALL  HIS  SUPPRESSED  AND  ATTRIBUTED  POEMS ;  WITH  SIX  BEAUTIFUL 

ENGRAVINGS. 

This  edition  has  been  carefully  compared  with  the  recent  London  edition  of  Mr.  Murray,  and 
made  complete  by  tlie  addition  of  more  than  fifty  pages  of  poems  heretofore  unpublished  in  Eng 
land.  Among  these  there  are  a  number  that  have  never  appeared  in  any  American  edition ;  and 
the  publishers  believe  they  are  warranted  in  saying  that  this  is  the  most  complete  edition  of  Lord 
Byron't  Poetical  Works  ever  published  in  the  United  States. 


Complete  in  one  volume,  octavo ;  with  seven  beautiful  Engravings. 

This  is  a  new  and  complete  edition,  with  a  splendid  engraved  likeness  of  Mrs.  Hemans,  on  steel, 
and  contains  all  the  Poems  in  the  last  London  and  American  editions.  With  a  Critical  Preface  by 
Mr.  Thatcher,  of  Boston. 

"As  no  work  in  the  English  language  can  be  commended  with  more  confidence,  it  will  argue  bad 
taste  in  a  female  in  this  country  to  be  without  a  complete  edition  of  the  writings  of  one  who  was 
an  honour  to  her  sex  and  to  humanity,  and  whose  productions,  from  first  to  last,  contain  no  syllable 
calculated  to  call  a  blush  to  the  cheek  of  modesty  and  virtue.  There  is,  moreover,  in  Mrs.  Hemans's 
poetry,  a  moral  purity  and  a  religious  feeling  which  commend  it,  in  an  especial  manner,  to  the  dis 
criminating  reader.  No  parent  or  guardian  will  be  under  the  necessity  of  imposing  restrictions 
with  regard  to  the  free  perusal  of  every  production  emanating  from  this  gifted  woman.  There 
breathes  throughout  the  whole  a  most  eminent  exemption  from  impropriety  of  thought  or  diction ; 
and  there  is  at  times  a  pensiveness  of  tone,  a  winning  sadness  in  her  more  serious  compositions, 
which  tells  of  a  soul  which  has  been  lifted  from  the  contemplation  oif  terrestrial  things,  to  divine 
connnunings  with  beings  of  a  purer  world." 


MILTON,  YOUNG,  GRAY,  BEATTIE,  AND  COLLINS'S 
POETICAL  WORKS, 


COMPLETE   IN   ONE   VOLUME,  OCTAVO. 
WITH   SIX  BEAUTIFUL   ENGRAVINGS. 


tapir  irafr  CjjnitiHira's  tynm  unit 


&farka. 


COMPLETE    IN   ONE   VOLUME,  OCTAVO. 

Including  two  hundred  and  fifty  Letters,  and  sundry  Poems  of  Cowper,  never  before  published  in 

thii  country  ;  and  of  Thomson  a  new  and  interesting  Memoir,  and  upwards  of  twenty 

new  Poems,  for  the  first  time  printed  from  his  own  Manuscripts,  taken  from 

a  late  Edition  of  the  Aldine  Poets,  now  publishing  in  London. 

WITH   SEVEN  BEAUTIFUL  ENGRAVINGS. 

The  distinguished  Professor  Silliman,  speaking  of  this  edition,  observes  :  "  I  am  as  much  gratified 
oy  'he  elegance  and  fine  taste  of  your  edition,  as  by  the  noble  tribute  of  genius  and  moral  excel 
lence  which  these  delightful  authors  have  left  for  all  future  generations  ;  and  Cowper,  especially, 
is  not  less  conspicuous  as  a  true  Christian,  moralist  and  teacher,  than  as  a  poet  of  great  power  and 
exquisite  taste." 

9 


LIPPINCOTT,  GRAMBO  &  CO.'S  PUBLICATIONS. 

THE  POETICAL  WORKS  OF  ROGERS,  CAMPBELL,  MONTGOMERY, 
LAMB,  AND  KIRKE  WHITE. 

COMPLETE    IN    ONE    VOLUME,    OCTAVO. 

WITH   SIX   BEAUTIFUL   ENGRAVINGS. 

The  beauty,  correctness,  and  convenience  of  this  favourite  edition  of  these  standard  authors  are 

to  well  known,  that  it  is  scarcely  necessary  to  add  a  word  in  its  favour.    It  is  only  necessary  to  say, 

that  the  publishers  have  now  issued  an  illustrated  edition,  which  greatly  enhances  its  former  value. 

The  engravings  are  excellent  and  well  selected.    It  is  the  best  library  edition  extant. 

CRABBE,  HEBER,  AND  POLLOK'S  POETICAL  WORKS. 

COMPLETE   IN   ONE   VOLUME,  OCTAVO. 
WITH   SIX  BEAUTIFUL   ENGRAVINGS. 

A  writer  in  the  Boston  Traveller  holds  the  following  language  with  reference  to  these  valuable 
editions : — 

"Mr.  Editor:  — I  wish,  without  any  idea  of  puffing,  to  say  a  word  or  two  upon  the  'Library  of 
English  Poets'  that  is  now  published  at  Philadelphia,  by  Lippincott,  Grambo  &.  Co.  It  is  certainly, 
taking  into  consideration  the  elegant  manner  in  which  it  is  printed,  and  the  reasonable  price  at 
which  it  is  afforded  to  purchasers,  the  best  edition  of  the  modern  British  Poets  that  has  ever  been 
published  in  this  country.  Each  volume  is  an  octavo  of  about  500  pages,  double  columns,  stereo 
typed,  and  accompanied  with  fine  engravings  and  biographical  sketches ;  and  most  of  them  are 
reprinted  from  Galignani's  French  edition.  As  to  its  value,  we  need  only  mention  that  it  contains 
the  entire  works  of  Montgomery,  Gray,  Beattie,  Collins,  Byron,  Cowper,  Thomson,  Milton,  Young, 
Rogers,  Campbell,  Lamb,  Hemans,  Heber,  Kirke  White,  Crabbe,  the  Miscellaneous  Works  of  Gtld 
smith,  and  other  masters  of  the  lyre.  The  publishers  are  doing  a  great  service  by  their  publication, 
and  their  volumes  are  almost  in  as  great  demand  as  the  fashionable  novels  of  the  day ;  and  they 
deserve  to  be  so :  for  they  are  certainly  printed  in  a  style  superior  to  that  in  which  we  have  before 
had  the  works  of  the  English  Poets." 

No  library  can  be  considered  complete  without  a  copy  of  the  above  beautiful  and  cheap  editions 
of  the  English  Poets ;  and  persons  ordering  all  or  any  of  them,  will  please  say  Lippincott,  Grambo 
&  Co.'s  illustrated  editions. 


A    COMPLETE 


nf  |fortiml  dkofntura: 


COMPRISING  THE  MOST  EXCELLENT  AND  APPROPRIATE  PASSAGES  IN 

THE  OLD  BRITISH  POETS;  WITH  CHOICE  AND  COPIOUS  SELEC 

TIONS  FROM  THE  BEST  MODERN  BRITISH  AND 

AMERICAN  POETS. 

EDITED   BTT   SARAH   JOSEPHA   HALE. 
As  nightingales  do  upon  glow-worms  feed, 
So  poets  live  upon  the  living  light 
Of  Nature  and  of  Beauty. 

Bailey's  Fcstut. 

Beautifully  illustrated  with  Engravings.    In  one  super-royal  octavo  volume,  in  various 

bindings. 

The  publishers  extract,  from  the  many  highly  complimentary  notices  of  the  above  valuable  and 
beautiful  work,  the  following  : 

"  We  have  at  last  a  volume  of  Poetical  Quotations  worthy  of  the  name.  It  contains  nearly  six 
hundred  octavo  pases,  carefully  and  tastefully  selected  from  all  the  home  and  foreign  authors  of 
celebrity.  It  is  invaluable  to  a  writer,  while  to  the  ordinary  reader  it  presents  every  subject  at  a 
glance."—  Godey's  Lady's  Book. 

"The  plan  or  idea  of  Mrs.  Hale's  work  is  felicitous.  It  is  one  for  which  her  fine  taste,  her  orderly 
habits  of  mind,  and  her  long  occupation  with  literature,  has  given  her  peculiar  facilities  ;  and  tho 
roughly  has  she-accomplished  her  task  in  the  work  before  us."  —  Sartain's  Magazine. 

"  It  is  a  choice  collection  of  poetical  extracts  from  every  English  and  American  author  worth 
perusing,  from  the  days  of  Chaucer  to  the  present  time."  —  Washington  Union. 

"  There  is  nothing  negative  about  this  work  ;  it  is  positively  good."  —  Evening  Bulletin. 

10 


LIPPINCOTT,  GRAMBO  &  CO.'S  PUBLICATIONS. 

THE  DIAMOND  EDITION  OF  BYRON, 
THE  POETICAL  WORKS  OF  LORD  BYRON, 

WITH   A   SKETCH    OP   HIS   LIFE. 
COMPLETE   IN    ONE    NEAT   DUODECIMO   VOLUME,  "WITH    STEEL   PLATES. 

The  type  of  this  edition  is  so  perfect,  and  it  is  printed  with  so  much  care,  on  fine  white  paper, 
that  it  can  be  read  with  as  much  ease  as  most  of  the  larger  editions.  This  work  is  to  be  had  in 
plain  and  superb  binding,  making  a  beautiful  volume  for  a  gift. 

"  The  Poetical  Works  of  Lord  Byron,  complete  in  one  volume  :  published  by  L.,  G.  &  Co.,  Phila 
delphia.  We  hazard  nothing  in  saying  that,  take  it  altogether,  this  is  the  most  elegant  work  ever 
issued  from  the  American  press. 

" '  In  a  single  volume,  not  larger  than  an  ordinary  duodecimo,  the  publishers  have  embraced  the 
whole  of  Lord  Byron's  Poems,  usually  printed  in  ten  or  twelve  volumes;  and,  what  is  more  remark 
able,  have  done  it  with  a  type  so  clear  and  distinct,  that,  notwithstanding  its  necessarily  small  size, 
it  may  be  read  with  the  utmost  facility,  even  by  failing  eyes.  The  book  is  stereotyped  ;  and  never 
have  we  seen  a  finer  specimen  of  that  art.  Everything  about  it  is  perfect  — the  paper,  the  print 
ing,  the  binding,  all  correspond  with  each  other ;  and  it  is  embellished  with  two  fine  engravings, 
well  worthy  the  companionship  in  which  they  are  placed. 

"  'This, will  make  a  beautiful  Christmas  present. 

"  We  extract  the  above  from  Godey's  Lady's  Book.  The  notice  itself,  we  are  given  to  understand, 
is  written  by  Mrs.  Hale. 

"  We  have  to  add  our  commendation  in  favour  of  this  beautiful  volume,  a  copy  of  which  has 
been  sent  us  by  the  publishers.  The  admirers  of  the  noble  bard  will  feel  obliged  to  the  enterprise 
which  has  prompted  the  publishers  to  dare  a  competition  with  the  numerous  editions  of  his  works 
already  in  circulation ;  and  we  shall  be  surprised  if  this  convenient  travelling  edition  does  not  in  a 
great  degree  supersede  the  use  of  the  large  octavo  works,  which  have  little  advantage  in  size  and 
openness  of  type,  and  are  much  inferior  in  the  qualities  of  portability  and  lightness."  —  Intelligencer. 


THE  DIAMOND   EDITION  OF  MOORE, 

(CORRESPONDING   WITH    BYBON.) 

THE  POETICAL  WORKsToF  THOMAS  MOORE, 

COLLECTED  BY  HIMSELF. 

COMPLETE    IN  ONB  VOLUME. 

This  work  is  published  uniform  with  Byron,  from  the  last  London  edition,  and  is  the  most  com 
plete  printed  in  the  country. 

THE  DIAMOND   EDITION  OF  SHAKSPEARE, 

(COMPLETE  IN  ONE  VOLUME,) 
INCLUDING  A  SKETCH  OF  SIS  LIFE. 

UNIFORM  WITH  BYRON  AND  MOORE. 

THB   ABOVK    WORKS   CAN  BE   HAD   IK    SEVERAL    VARIETIES    OF    BINDIN8. 

GOLDSMITH'S  ANIMATED  NATURE. 

IN   TWO   VOLUMES,   OCTAVO. 
BEAUTIFULLY  ILLUSTRATED  WITH  385  PLATES. 

CONTAINING  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  EARTH,  ANIMALS,  BIRDS,  AND  FISHES;  FORMING 
THE  MOST  COMPLETE  NATURAL  HISTORY  EVER  PUBLISHED. 

This  is  a  work  that  should  be  in  the  library  of  every  family,  having  been  written  by  one  of  the 
most  talented  authors  in  the  English  language. 

"  Goldsmith  can  never  be  made  obsolete  while  delicate  genius,  exquisite  feeling,  fine  invention, 
the  most  harmonious  metre,  and  the  happiest  diction,  are  at  all  valued." 

BIGLAND'S  NATURAL  HISTORY 

Of  Animals,  Birds,  Fishes,  Reptiles,  and  Insects.    Illustrated  with  numerous  and  beautiful  Engrav 
ings.    By  JOHN  BIGLAND,  author  of  a  "  View  of  the  World,"  "  Letters  ou 
Universal  History,"  Sec.    Complete  in  1  rol.,  12mo. 


LIPPINCOTT,  GRA.MBC  &  CO.'S  PUBLICATIONS. 

THE  POWER  AND  PROGRESS  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES, 

THE  UNITED  STATES;  Its  Power  and  Progress. 

BY  GUILLAUME   TELL  POUSSIN, 

LATE  MINISTER  OF  THE  REPUBLIC  OF  FRANCE  TO  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

FIRST  AMERICAN,  FROM  THE  THIRD  PARIS  EDITION. 

TRANSLATED  FROM  THE  FRENCH  BY  EDMOND  L.  DU  BARRY,  M.  D., 

SURGEON  U.  S.   NAVY. 

In  one  large  octavo  volume. 

SCHOOLCRAFT'S  GREAT  NATIONAL  WORK  ON  THE  INDIAN  TRIBES  OF 

THE  UNITED  STATES, 

WITH   BEAUTIFUL   AND   ACCURATE    COLOURED   ILLUSTRATIONS. 

HISTORICAL  AND  STATISTICAL  INFORMATION 

RESPECTING   THE 

HISTORY,  CONDITION  AND  PROSPECTS 

OF   THE 

SrtMan  (Kribe*  of  t[u  Jttrihh  $iflft& 

COLLECTED  AND  PREPARED  UNDER  THE  DIRECTION  OF  THE  BUREAU  OF  INDIAN 

AFFAIRS,  PER  ACT  OF  MARCH  3,  1&47, 

BY   HENRY   R.  S  C  HO  OLCH  AFT,  Z.Z..D. 

ILLUSTRATED  BY  S.  EASTMAN,  CAPT.  U.  S.  A. 

PUBLISHED  BY  AUTHORITY  OF  CONGRESS. 

THE  AMERICAN  GARDENER'S  CALENDAR, 

ADAPTED  TO  THE  CLIMATE  AND  SEASONS  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

Containing  a  Complete  account  of  all  the  work  necessary  to  be  done  in  the  Kitchen  Garden,  Fruit 

Garden,  Orchard,  Vineyard,  Nursery,  Pleasure-Ground,  Flower  Garden,  Green-house.  Hot-house, 

and  Forcing  Frames,  for  every  month  in  the  year  ;  with  ample  Practical  Directions  for  performing 

the  same. 

Also,  general  as  well  as  minute  instructions  for  laying  out  or  erecting  each  and  every  of  the  above 

departments,  according  to  modern  taste  and  the  most  approved  plans;  the  Ornamental  Planting  of 

Pleasure  Grounds,  in  the  ancient  and  modern  style  ;  the  cultivation  of  Thorn  Quicks,  and  other 

plants  suitable  for  Live  Hedges,  with  the  best  methods  of  making  them.  &c.    To  which  are  annexed 

catalogues  of  Kitchen  Garden  Plants  and  Herbs;  Aromatic,  Pot,  and  Sweet  Herbs;  Medicinal 

Prants,  and  the  most  important  Grapes,  <tc.,  used  in  rural  economy;  with  the  soil  best  adapted  to 

their  cultivation.    Together  with  a  copious  Index  to  the  body  of  the  work. 

BY  BERNARD  M'MAHON. 

Tenth  Edition,  greatly  improved.    In  one  volume,  octavo. 

THE  USEFUL  AND  THE  BEAUTIFUL; 

OR,  DOMESTIC  AND  MORAL  DUTIES  NECESSARY  TO  SOCIAL  HAPPINESS, 

BEAUTIFULLY  ILLUSTRATED. 

16mo.  square  cloth.     Price  50  and  75  cents. 

12 

LIPPINCOTT,  GRAMBO  &  CO.'S  PUBLICATIONS. 

THE  FARMER'S  AND  PLANTER'S  ENCYCLOP/EDIA, 


€\p  /flrmrr'0  ani  junto's  fnnjrlDpMa  nf  Unral  Affairs, 

BY  CUTHBERT  W.  JOHNSON. 
ADAPTED  TO  THE  UNITED  STATES  BY  GOUVERNEUR  EMERSON, 

Illustrated  by  seventeen  beautiful  Engravings  of  Cattle,  Horses,  Sheep,  the  varieties  of  Wheat, 
Barley,  Oats,  Grasses,  the  Weeds  of  Agriculture,  &c. ;  besides  numerous  Engrav 
ings  on  wood  of  the  most  important  implements  of  Agriculture,  &o. 

This  standard  work  contains  the  latest  and  best  information  upon  all  subjects  connected  with 
farming,  and  appertaining  to  the  country ;  treating  of  the  great  crops  of  grain,  hay,  cotton,  hemp, 
tobacco,  rice,  sugar,  &.C.  <tc. ;  of  horses  and  mules ;  of  cattle,  with  minute  particulars  relating  to 
cheese  and  butter-making;  of  fowls,  including  a  description  of  capon-making,  with  drawings  of  the 
instruments  employed;  of  bees,  and  the  Russian  and  other  systems  of  managing  bees  and  con 
structing  hives.  Long  articles  on  the  uses  and  preparation  of  bones,  lime,  guano,  and  all  sorts  of 
animal,  mineral,  and  vegetable  substances  employed  as  manures.  Descriptions  of  the  most  approved 
ploughs,  harrows,  threshers,  and  every  other  agricultural  machine  and  implement;  of  fruit  and 
shade  trees,  forest  trees,  and  shrubs;  of  weeds,  and  all  kinds  of  flies,  and  destructive  worms  and 
insects,  and  the  best  means  of  getting  rid  of  them ;  together  with  a  thousand  other  matters  relating 
to  iiiral  life-,  about  which  information  is  so  constantly  desired  by  all  residents  of  the  country. 
IN  ONE  LARGE  OCTAVO  VOLUME. 


MASON'S  FARRIER-FARMERS'  EDITION. 

Price,  62  cents. 

THE  PRACTICAL  FARRIER,  FOR  FARMERS: 

COMPRISING   A   GENERAL   DESCRIPTION  OP  THE    NOBLE   AND   USEFUL   ANIMAL- 

THE    HORSE; 

WITH  MODES  OF  MANAGEMENT  IN  ALL  CASES,  AND  TREATMENT  IN  DISEASE. 
TO    WHICH    IS    ADDED, 

A  PRIZE  ESSAY  ON  MULES;  AND  AN  APPENDIX, 

Containing  Recipes  for  Diseases  of  Horses,  Oxen,  Cows,  Calves,  Sheep,  Dogs,  Swine,  <tc.  Ac. 
BIT  RICHARD   MASON,  M.  D., 

Formerly  of  Surry  County,  Virginia. 

In  one  volume,  12mo.;    bound  in  cloth,  gilt. 

MASON'S  FARRIER  AND  STUD-BOOK-NEW  EDITION. 
THE  GENTLEMAN'S  NEW  POCKET  FARRIER: 

COMPRISING  A  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  NOBLE  AND  BSEFDL  ANIMAL, 

THE    HORSE; 

WITH  MODES  OF  MANAGEMENT  IN  ALL  CASES,  AND  TREATMENT  IN  DISEASE. 

BIT  RICHARD  MASON,  M.  D., 

Formerly  of  Sorry  County,  Virginia. 

To  which  is  added,  A  PRIZE  ESSAY  ON  MULES;  and  AN  APPENDIX,  containing  Recipes  for 

Diseases  of  Horses,  Oxen,  Cows,  Calves,  Si.fcep,  Dogs,  Swine,  &c.  <kc. ;  with  Annals 

of  the  Turf,  American  Stud-Book,  Rules  for  Training,  Racing,  <to. 

WITH   A   SUPPLEMENT, 

Comprising  a>-  Essay  on  Domestic  Animals,  especially  the  Hprse ;  with  Remaiks  on  Treatment  and 

Breeding;  together  with  Trotting  and  Racing  Tables,  showing  the  best  time  on  record  at  one, 

two,  three  and  four  mile  neats  ;  Pedigrees  of  Winning  Horses,  since  1839,  and  of  the  most 

celebrated  Stallions  and  Mares;  with  useful  Calving  and  Lambing  Tables.    By 

J.  S.  SKINNER,  Editor  now  of  the  Farmer's  Library,  New  York,  &c.  <kc. 

18 


LirPINCOTT,  GRAMBO  &  CO.'S  PUBLICATIONS. 

HINOS'S  FARRIERY  AND_STUD-BOOK-NEW  EDITION. 
FARRIERY, 

TAUGHT  ON  A  NEW  AND  EASY  PLAN: 


€mim  n  tip 


Irnktits  nf  tip  Ira  ; 


With  Instructions  to  the  Shoeing  Smith,  Farrier,  and  Groom  ;  preceded  by  a  Popular  Description  of 
the  Animal  Functions  in  Health,  and  how  these  are  to  be  restored  when  disordered. 

BY  JOHN    HINDS,  VETERINARY  SURGEON. 

With  considerable  Additions  and  Improvements,  particularly  adapted  to  this  country, 

BY  THOMAS  M.   SMITH, 
Veterinary  Surgeon,  and  Member  of  the  London  Veterinary  Medical  Society. 

WITH  A  SUPPLEMENT,  BY  J.  S.  SKINNER. 

The  publishers  have  received  numerous  flattering  notices  of  the  great  practical  value  of  these 
works.  The  distinguished  editor  of  the  American  Farmer,  speaking  of  them,  observes:  —  "We 
cannot  too  highly  recommend  these  books,  and  therefore  advise  every  owner  of  a  horse  to  obtain 
them." 

"There  are  receipts  in  those  books  that  show  how  Pounder  may  be  cured,  and  the  traveller  pur 
sue  his  journey  the  next  day,  by  giving  a  tablespoonful  of  alum.  This  was  got  from  Dr.  P.  Thornton. 
of  Montpelier,  Rappahannock  county,  Virginia,  as  founded  on  his  own  observation  in  several  cases." 

*  The  constant  demand  for  Mason's  and  Hinds's  Farrier  has  induced  the  publishers,  Messrs.  Lip- 

Sincott,  Grambo  &  Co.,  to  put  forth  new  editions,  with  a  '  Supplement'  of  100  pages,  by  J.  S.  Skinner, 
sq.    We  should  have  sought  to  render  an  acceptable  service  to  our  agricultural  readers,  by  giving 
a  chapter  from  the  Supplement,  'On  the  Relations  between  Man  and  the  Domestic  Animals,  espe 
cially  the  Horse,  and  the  Obligations  thoy  impose  ;'  or  the  one  on  '  The  Form  of  Animals  ;'  but  that 
either  one  of  them  would  overrun  the  space  here  allotted  to  such  subjects." 

•  "  Lists  of  Medicines,  and  other  articles  which  ought  to  be  at  hand  about  every  training  and  livery 
•table,  and  every  Farmer's  and  Breeder's  establishment,  will  be  found  ia  these"  valuable  works." 


TO  CARPENTERS  AND  MECHANICS. 

Just  Published. 


A  NEW  AND  IMPROVED  EDITION  OP 

THE  CARPENTER'S  NEW  GUIDE, 

A   COMPLETE   BOOK   OF   LINES   FOR 

CARPENTRY  AND  JOINERY; 

Treating  fully  on  Practical  Geometry,  Soffits,  Groins,  Niches,  Roofs,  and  Domes;  and  containing  a 
great  variety  of  original  Designs. 

ALSO,  A    FULL  EXEMPLIFICATION  OF  THE 

Theory  and  Practice  of  Stair  Building-, 

Cornices,  Mouldings,  and  Dressings  of  every  description.    Including  also  some  observations  and 
calculations  on  the  Strength  of  Timber. 

BY    PETER    NICHOLSON, 

Author  of  "The  Carpenters  and  Joiner's  Assistant,"  "The  Student's  Instructor  to  the  Five 
Orders,"  <tc.    The  whole  being  carefully  and  thoroughly  revised, 

BY    N.    K.    DAVIS, 

And  containing  numerous  New,  Improved,  and  Original  Designs,  for  Roofs,  Domes,  Ac., 

BY    SAMUEL    SLOAN,    ARCHITECT, 

Author  of  "The  Model  Architect." 

SIXTEENTH   EDITION.       PRICE,    FOUR   DOLLARS. 


LIPPINCOTT,  GRAMBO  &  CO.'S  PUBLICATIONS. 

A  DICTIONARY  OF  SELECT  AND  POPULAR  QUOTATIONS, 

WHICH  ARE  IN  DAILY  USE. 

TAKEN  FROM  THE  LATIN,  FRENCH,  GREEK,  SPANISH  AND  ITALIAN  LANGUAGES. 

Together  with  a  copious  Collection  of  Law  Maxims  and  Law  Terms,  translated  into 

English,  with  Illustrations,  Historical  and  Idiomatic. 

NEW  AMERICAN  EDITION,  CORRECTED,  WITH  ADDITIONS. 

One  volume,    12mo. 

This  volume  comprises  a  copious  collection  of  legal  and  other  terms  which  are  in  common  use, 
with  English  translations  and  historical  illustrations;  and  we  should  judge  its  author  had  surely- 
been  to  a  great  "  Feast  of  Languages,"  and  stole  all  the  scraps.  A  work  of  this  character  should 
have  an  extensive  sale,  as  it  entirely  obviates  a  serious  difficulty  in  which  most  readers  are  involved 
by  the  frequent  occurrence  of  Latin,  Greek,  and  French  passages,  which  we  supnose  are  introduced 
by  authors  for  a  mere  show  of  learning — a  difficulty  very  perplexing  to  readers  in  general.  This 
"  Dictionary  of  Quotations,"  concerning  which  too  much  cannot  be  said  in  its  favour,  effectually 
removes  the  difficulty,  and  gives  the  reader  an  advantage  over  the  author ;  for  we  believe  a  majority 
•re  themselves  ignorant  of  the  meaning  of  the  terms  they  employ.  Very  few  truly  learned  authors 
will  insult  their  readers  by  introducing  Latin  or  French  quotations  in  their  writings,  when  "  plain 
English"  will  do  as  well ;  but  we  will  not  enlarge  on  this  point. 

If  the  book  is  useful  to  those  unacquainted  with  other  languages,  it  is  no  less  valuable  to  the 
classically  educated  as  a  book  of  reference,  and  answers  all  the  purposes  of  a  Lexicon  — indeed,  on 
many  accounts,  it  is  better.  It  saves  the  trouble  of  tumbling  over  the  larger  volumes,  to  which 
every  one,  and  especially  those  engaged  in  the  legal  profession,  are  very  often  subjected.  It  should 
have  a  place  in  every  library  in  the  country. 


RUSCHENBERGER'S  NATURAL  HISTORY, 

COMPLETE,     WITH    MEW    GLOSSARY. 


nf  Natural 


EMBRACING  ZOOLOGY,  BOTANY  AND  GEOLOGY: 

FOR  SCHOOLS,  COLLEGES  AND  FAMILIES. 
BIT  W.  S.  W.  RUSCHENBERGER,  2VX.  D. 

IN   TWO   VOLUMES. 

WITH  NEARLY  ONE  THOUSAND  ILLUSTRATIONS,  AND  A  COPIOUS   GLOSSARY. 
Vol.  I.  contains  Vertebrate  Animals.    Vol.  II.  contains  1nierotrtebra.lt  Animals,  Botany,  and  Geology. 


GREAT  TRUTHS  BY  GREAT  AUTHORS. 
GREAT  TRUTHS  iFGREAT  AUTHORS; 

A  DICTIONARY 

OF  AIDS  TO  REFLECTION,  QUOTATIONS  OF  MAXIMS,  METAPHORS, 
COUNSELS,  CAUTIONS,  APHORISMS.  ETC., 

FROM  WRITERS  OF  ALL  AGES  AND  BOTH  HEMISPHERES, 

ONE   VOLUME,  DEMI-OCTAVO. 

"  I  have  somewhere  seen  it  observed,  that  we  should  make  the  same  use  of  a  book,  that  a  bee 
does  of  a  flower;  she  steals  sweets  from  it,  but  does  not  injure  it." — Cotton. 

STYLES   OF   BINDING. 

Ultramarine  cloth,  bevelled  board,  price  $1  50;  Ultramarine  cloth,  bevelled  and  panelled, 

gilt  sides  and  edges,  $2  00;  Half  calf,  or  Turkey  antique,  fancy  edges,  $2  50; 

Full  calf,  or  Turkey  antique,  brown  or  gilt  edges,  $3  50. 

15 


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THE  YOUNG  DOMINICAN; 
OR,  THE  MYSTERIES  OF  THE  INQUISITION, 

AND  OTHER  SECRET  SOCIETIES  OF  SPAIN. 
BY  M.  V.  DE  FEREAL. 

WITH  HISTORICAL  NOTES,  BY  M,  MANUEL  DE  CUENDIAS, 

TRANSLATED    FROM    THE    FRENCH. 

ILLUSTRATED  WITH  TWENTY  SPLENDID  ENGRAVINGS  BY  FRENCH  ARTISTS. 
One  volume,  octavo. 

SAY'S  POLITICAL  ECONOMY, 


A  TREATISE  ON  POLITICAL  ECONOMY; 

Or,  The  Production,  Distribution  and  Consumption  of  Wealth. 

BY   JEAN   BAPTISTS   SAY. 

FIFTH   AMERICAN   EDITION,   WITH   ADDITIONAL   NOTES, 
BY  C.   C.   BIDDLE,   ESQ. 

In  one  volume,  octavo. 

It  would  be  beneficial  to  our  country  if  all  those  who  are  aspiring  to  office,  were  required  by  their 
constituents  to  be  familiar  with  the<pages  of  Say. 

The  distinguished  biographer  of  the  author,  in  noticing  this  work,  observes :  "  Happily  for  science, 
he  commenced  that  study  which  forms  the  basis  of  his  admirable  Treatise  on  Political  Economy  ;  a 
work  which  not  only  improved  under  his  hand  with  every  nucoessive  edition,  but  lias  been  translated 
into  most  of  the  European  languages." 

The  Editor  of  the  North  American  Review,  speaking  of  Say,  observes,  that  "  he  is  the  most 
popular,  and  perhaps  the  most  able  writer  on  Political  Economy,  since  the  time  of  Smith." 

LAURENCE  STERNE'S  WORKS, 

WITH  A  LIFE  OF  THE  AUTHOR: 

WRITTEN    BY   HIMSELF. 

WITH  SEVEN  BEAUTIFUL  ILLUSTRATIONS,  ENGRAVED  BY  GILBERT  AND  GIHON, 
FROM  DESIGNS  BY  DARLEY. 

One  volume,   octavo;   cloth,   gilt. 

To  commend  or  to  criticise  Sterne's  Works,  in  this  age  of  the  world,  would  be  all  "  wasteful  and 
extravagant  excess."  Uncle  Toby  —  Corporal  Trim — the  Widow  —  Le  Fevre  —  Poor  Maria— the 
Captive  — even  the  Dead  Ass,  —  this  is  all  we  have  to  say  of  Sterne;  and  in  the  memory  of  these 
characters,  histories,  and  sketches,  a  thousand  follies  and  worse  than  follies  are  forgotten.  The 
volume  is  a  very  handsome  one. 

THE  MEXICAN  WAR  AND  ITS  HEROES; 

A  COMPLETE  HISTORY"  OF  THE  MEXICAN  WAR, 

EMBRACING  ALL  THE  OPERATIONS   UNDER  GENERALS   TAYLOR  AND  SCOTT. 

WITH  A  BIOGRAPHY  OF  THE  OFFICERS. 

ALSO, 

AN  ACCOUNT  OF  THE  CONQUEST  OF  CALIFORNIA  AND  NEW  MEXICO, 

Under  Gen.  Kearny,  Cols.  Doniphan  and  Fremont.    Together  with  Numerous  Anecdotes  of  the 

War,  and  Personal  Adventures  of  the  Officers.    Illustrated  with  Accurate 

Portraits,  and  other  Beautiful  Engravings. 

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lades,  <kc.  <tc.  <tc.    Together  with  various  Miscellaneous  Recipes, 
and  numerous  Preparations  for  Invalids. 

BY  MRS.   BLISS. 
In  <>ne  volume,    12mo. 


€ty  City  Blmijant ;  nr,  €<!;?  Btysterta  /ate. 

BY  J.  B.  JOl,^ 

AUTHOR  OF  "WILD  WESTERN  SCENES,"  "THE  WESTr,.^        ~.LUOHANT,"  Ac. 
ILLUSTRATED  WITH  TEN   ENGRAVINGS. 

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CALIFORNIA  AND  OREGON; 
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BT  THEODORE   T.  JOHNSON. 
WITH    NOTES,  BY   HON.  SAMUEL  R.  THURSTON, 

Delegate  to  Congress  from  that  Territory. 

With  numerous  Plates  and  Maps* 

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OR,    SOUTHERN    LIFE   AS   IT   IS. 

BY   MRS.   MART   H.    EASTMAN. 

PRICE,  60  AND  75  CENTS. 

This  volume  presents  a  picture  of  Southern  Life,  taken  at  different  points  of  view  from  the  one 
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miliar  with  the  many  varied  aspects  assumed  by  domestic  servitude  in  that  sunny  region,  and  there 
fore  feels  competent  to  give  pictures  of  "  Southern  Life,  as  it  is." 

Pledged  to  no  clique  or  party,  and  free  from  the  pressure  of  any  and  all  extranoons  influences, 
she  has  written  lier  book  with  a  view  to  its  truthfulness;  and  the  public  at  the  North,  as  well  as 
at  the  South,  will  find  in  "Aunt  Phillis's  Cabin"  not  the  distorted  picture  of  an  interested  painter, 
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WHAT  IS  CHURCH  HISTORY? 

AVINDICATION  OF  THE  IDEA  OF  HISTORICAL  DEVELOPMENTS, 

BY  PHILIP   SOHAF. 

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B  17~ 


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BY   WILLIAM   DODD,   LL.  D., 

CHAPLAIN   IN   ORDINARY    TO    HIS    MAJESTY    GEORGE    THE  THIRD. 

FIRST  AMERICAN  EDITION,  WITH  ENGRAVINGS. 

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THE  COLUMBIAN  ORATOR, 

CONTAINING 

A  VARIETY  OF  ORIGINAL  AND  SELECTED  PIECES, 

TOGETHER   WITH 

RULES  CALCULATED  TO  IMPROVE  YOUTH   AND  OTHERS  IN  THE 
ORNAMENTAL  AND  USEFUL  ART  OF  ELOQUENCE. 

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THE  GENTLEMAN  AND  LADY'S  LEXICON, 

OR   POCKET    DICTIONARY. 

BY   WILLIAM    GRIMSHAW,  ESQ. 
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verb  now  generally  used ;  and,  unless  accompanied  by  a  particular  caution,  no  word  has  been 
admitted  which  is  not  now  of  polite  or  popular  use,  and  no  word  has  been  excluded  which  is 
r?u.uired  either  in  epistolary  composition  or  conversation." 


ANCIENT  CHRISTIANITY  EXEMPLIFIED, 

In  the  Private,  Domestic,  Social,  and  Civil  Life  of  the  Primitive 

Christians,  and  in  the  Original  Institutions,  Offices, 

Ordinances,  and  Rites  of  the  Church* 

BY  REV.  LYMAN  COLEMAN,  D.u, 
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18 


—  - 

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CIVIL  LIBERTY  AND  SELF-GOVERNMENT, 

, 

By  Francis  Lieber,  IL.  D., 

Author  of  "Political  Ethics,"  and  Professor  of  History  and  Political  Economy  in  the 

South  Carolina  College. 

A  bold  title,  but  ably  illustrated  in  the  work,  namely,  '-That  there  can  be  no  real,  substantial 

Civil  Liberty,  where  there  is  no  real,  substantial  Self-government,  based  on  a  system  of  institutions 

independent  one  of  the  other,  yet  unitedly  working  toward  one  great  national  end."  Two  volumes. 

f    Price,  J2  25. 

It  is  the  most  thorough,  most  original,  and  most  soundly  American  political  treatise,  yet  pub 

lished."  —  Saturday  Gazette. 

A  PRACTICAL  TREATISE  ON  BUSINESS; 

OR,  HOW  TO   GET,   SAVE,  SPEND,   GIVE,    LEND,   AND  BEQUEATH  MONEYi 

WJTH  AN  INQUIRY  INTO  THE  CHANCES  OF  SUCCESS  AND  CAUSES 

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«•{ 


